i went to advanced on a budget and bought u joints for the front axle and had them on now for probably 1k miles and doing the same thing again so i am sure they are frozen again have not taken them out to check but what are the best to get.
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i went to advanced on a budget and bought u joints for the front axle and had them on now for probably 1k miles and doing the same thing again so i am sure they are frozen again have not taken them out to check but what are the best to get.
I prefer to get the kind you can grease. You might check around and get Spicer/Dana u joints with grease fittings
230 hp 4.3L Chevy
Built 4L60E with manual lockout
Atlas 4 speed
Griffin radiator
On board air
Warn 9.5ti on custom bumper
7.5" RE front and bastard pack rear on custom long arms
30 gal gas tank
lockers
And a bunch of other stuff
the drive works ones i have has grease fittings and had help putting them in from a old timer so dont think it was user error
If they are greased they they should last
230 hp 4.3L Chevy
Built 4L60E with manual lockout
Atlas 4 speed
Griffin radiator
On board air
Warn 9.5ti on custom bumper
7.5" RE front and bastard pack rear on custom long arms
30 gal gas tank
lockers
And a bunch of other stuff
must have got bad ones lasted about two months
That is not right. Were they greased after assembly? When the go like that that is what causes it
230 hp 4.3L Chevy
Built 4L60E with manual lockout
Atlas 4 speed
Griffin radiator
On board air
Warn 9.5ti on custom bumper
7.5" RE front and bastard pack rear on custom long arms
30 gal gas tank
lockers
And a bunch of other stuff
Always heard the non-greasable were stronger. That said, I pack the caps full of grease when I install them. So much so that it almost hyro locks them when putting the last cap on. This pushes more grease into the center where inertia is gonna pull it out to the caps as they dry up.
i did grease them was i not suppose to these had a grease fitting in one of the end caps
No, you are supposed to hit them with the grease gun. Sometimes the installer makes them tight when pressing together by pushing the ears of the yoke too hard. I covered this on a pod cast moment. But you might pull the axle out put in in a vise and take a drift and give the end a couple of whacks with a BFH to spread them back out. Might be all it needs. Standard procedure when I install them myself.
230 hp 4.3L Chevy
Built 4L60E with manual lockout
Atlas 4 speed
Griffin radiator
On board air
Warn 9.5ti on custom bumper
7.5" RE front and bastard pack rear on custom long arms
30 gal gas tank
lockers
And a bunch of other stuff
ok i did one side at a time couple days apart with someone helping me each time and i did noticed when i did the right side (the last one) my buddy did whack it like you said the left side we did not do that
The whack costs nothing. Might give it a try before spending money
230 hp 4.3L Chevy
Built 4L60E with manual lockout
Atlas 4 speed
Griffin radiator
On board air
Warn 9.5ti on custom bumper
7.5" RE front and bastard pack rear on custom long arms
30 gal gas tank
lockers
And a bunch of other stuff
Don't buy spicers unless you can find some made in USA there made in Mexico now and suck! Mine are clicking and are only 4 months old I picked up some precision ujoints from Oreally's for 20 bucks there about the best now besides superjoints but who can afford them 100 ujoints!
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'( o ))-=--) ( o ))--=--)).Just another GREEN XJ lifted on 33's
Spicer 760-x Axle U-joints
ok next thing is i have manual lock out conversion that keeps the same axle shafts right, making sure i installed the right ones
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