I just got a roughy country 3 inch lift. But I also have 2 incha spacers and 2 inch blocks. If I throw those on it'll be a 5 inch lift. I wouldn't need anything else would I?
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I just got a roughy country 3 inch lift. But I also have 2 incha spacers and 2 inch blocks. If I throw those on it'll be a 5 inch lift. I wouldn't need anything else would I?
Blocks are not recomended at all for lifting, they will cause axle wrap in the best case. If your looking for a 5" lift, get the springs and you will need or at least want long arms so you have some nice ride quality and flexability.
2004 4.7v8HO WJ OMG, it's RED , Green bits are now under the hood. Loving the F/R Lockers and D44's. RIP 2011 Lil Ric and Gordo. RIP 2012 Jessie RIP 2013 Kat. RIP 2013 Ed . Lizards can always climb but sometimes they loose their tails to get away. The true patriot will stand beside the soldier when the time comes to fight Now building Asnikiye heca (Buzzard's Roost) homestead farm. My road is my wheeling trail
This is a common question. The answer is in theory you can do it, but it is not a good practice. 3" is the limit for stock upper and lower links without changing your castor angle too much. When you do that, it increases your chances of death wobble a lot and is the cause of many cases of it. The other issues are that you will need a longer track bar, brake lines and shocks. It is best to plan on getting all the stuff together before doing this and not using blocks in the rear to do so. You will run the risk of pulling the driveline yoke out of the tcase.
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Built 4L60E with manual lockout
Atlas 4 speed
Griffin radiator
On board air
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7.5" RE front and bastard pack rear on custom long arms
30 gal gas tank
lockers
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