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Thread: Control arm question

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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Location
    spring, tx
    Posts
    32

    Default Re: control arm question

    i have had these on for close to a year now and really like them. i left them black though. they flex more than stock arms.

    i have his tie rod installed too and his motor mounts sitting on my work bench waiting for a slow day to install them. i think next i will replace my infamous rusty's track bar with Andy's.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    Moore, SC
    Posts
    2,051

    Default Re: Control arm question

    so whats the favorite version of Andy's LCA's? Poly at both ends, or Johnny joint on one end?

    Looking at buying a set next week, trying to make the decision right.
    2003 WJ Daily Adventuremobile
    1985 MF 250 Tractor (Fixed!!!)
    1999 XJ (in pieces in the driveway)
    1991 Explorer (Cracked Heads)(Stock, for now )
    1989 F150 (In progress-Blown freeze plugs)
    2003 Explorer 1.5" body lift, F150 towhooks, rare OEM skidplates, 265/70-16 Cooper Discoverer AT3's
    1979 K20, (in pieces in the yard) 350, NP465, NP205, Custom Rust Patches
    1970 C30 (tires tore open by bushhog)

  3. #3

    Default Re: Control arm question

    the answer to that question is application specific.
    Daily driver low lift: poly on both ends
    Daily driver tall lift: poly is ok but recommend johnny joint at frame or new rubber joint arms

    Off road use often: Definitely use JJ or rubber joints to absorb bind and flex for longest lasting product. Our poly bushings do tend to last a few years though. The relief of the johnny joint or the rubber creates less stress on the weak dana 30 parts when in severe articulation.

    Limit straps are always a good idea for really flexy rigs. You dont want your shocks topping out or your control arms smashing up your brackets.

    Hope this helps
    Andy
    'Like' us on Facebook for future discounts! Click Here
    Ironman4x4Fab.com or call 704-796-3502
    ECORS Class A #121 - the Black 5.9 Grand

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    Moore, SC
    Posts
    2,051

    Default Re: Control arm question

    It does help, a great deal.

    If I have to pull this axle to cut and repair the rust damage on the shock bracket, I am going to replace the arms, re-gear, and add a selectable locker while it's out.

    Then wheel, break, repeat......but not so much if I do this right once.
    2003 WJ Daily Adventuremobile
    1985 MF 250 Tractor (Fixed!!!)
    1999 XJ (in pieces in the driveway)
    1991 Explorer (Cracked Heads)(Stock, for now )
    1989 F150 (In progress-Blown freeze plugs)
    2003 Explorer 1.5" body lift, F150 towhooks, rare OEM skidplates, 265/70-16 Cooper Discoverer AT3's
    1979 K20, (in pieces in the yard) 350, NP465, NP205, Custom Rust Patches
    1970 C30 (tires tore open by bushhog)

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