Building the ultimate Dana 44?

[4.3LXJ]

There are three things that affect braking for the most part. Rotor diameter, pad surface area and piston surface area. Although more pressure can be an upgrade, but brings higher temps on the rotors in a panic stop. Rotor diameters have been increasing, hence the 16 and 17" wheels to clear those larger rotors. Also as brake pad area increases, more rotor pistons are being used. But if you go to larger diameter tires, I don't think I would go to slotted rotors. Those are more for high speed applications. There is a fourth thing that has come up in the last few years. Different lining materials. The softer the material, the faster you stop, except when you get them too hot. They also wear out fast and leave a ton of dust on your wheels. If you go to the other extreme, and I did on one of my work trucks, then you can put tough as nails lining on that needs to get hot before they start working well. But with a 22000# GVW on a one ton Power Wagon that was real handy.

Now there are ceramic linings which I favor. Good on cold temps and never fade, and there is an improvement stopping power too. So I put them on all our cars and the Jeep is getting a set. If they are not as effective as I want, there are some solutions from Willwood for instance that are bolt on and will stop anything, but six piston calipers are not cheap

[4.3LXJ]

Next it is time to think about shocks, which means you have to know what shocks you will use and how to mount them

[4.3LXJ]

These studs are OEM for the studs for the top of the shocks for Chevy pickups 2 and 4WD. They just unbolt. These are black because I soaked them in white vinegar to remove the rust. I made a simple box to weld to the axle and then tacked the nut on the inside. This is also a fix for the lower shock studs on an XJ rear axle if the stud gets damaged.

The next thing to consider is the trailering of my XJ. Not a common occurrence, however since I always do it alone, I bent some 3/4" rod and welded it on for chain or strap attachment points. The idea is to attach the chain to both loops and drive the Jeep on the trailer until the drooping chain is caught on a welded on hook on the back of the trailer

[4.3LXJ]

You may have noticed some leaf spring pads on the axle housing. These are temporary to bolt to the existing leaf springs until I get all the frame stuff needed to run a three link. But the ultimate goal is to link the back, so there is a top link mount mounted on the truss.



Also, coils will be needed. I chose rear coils from an Aerostar van, which I have noticed is a very smooth riding rear suspension. Here is the basic setup as it stands now.






The shocks I will be using are Monroe Gas Magnums, with 10 stage valving which I have found to be excellent on and off road for a smooth ride.