Re: How to build a 3 or 4 link suspension
Next, you need to make your top link. It needs to be made a little different than the bottom. This link needs to have right and left hand threads so you can easily adjust your castor angle. If you have a custom axel in the front, you can just weld a couple of tabs on for another bushing or rod end. But if you have a standard D30 front end, it is a little more complicated. You have to come up with a good bushing for the standard hole. I have had trouble finding them. The rubber ones are not tough enough for a three link. So I made mine. I had a sleeve turned down from left over rod link tubing to fit the stock hole on the pumpkin. I then used a bushing from a Chevy K series front spring which just happens to fit the inside diameter of the DOM tubing. You can cut the bushings down with a hack saw to fit a standard 2” wide top link end, which I cannibalized from my last suspension. Otherwise you can build one from 1/4X2” flat bar.
230 hp 4.3L Chevy
Built 4L60E with manual lockout
Atlas 4 speed
Griffin radiator
On board air
Warn 9.5ti on custom bumper
7.5" RE front and bastard pack rear on custom long arms
30 gal gas tank
lockers
And a bunch of other stuff
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