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Thread: RPM Jerking...

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
    Location
    United States
    Posts
    26

    Default RPM Jerking...

    Ok so here is the problem, when I accelerate and I push the rpms past 3000 in any gear but, mostly 2nd gear, the car "jerks". When it jerks the tachometer drops in rpms and it feels like there is no power to the car like the gear is slipping... but it only does it for a second before power returns. It does this constantly at higher rpms but wait there is more! When rpms top 4 you can feel the gears almost grinding. Its a very ugly feeling and I drop rpms instantly for fear of damage. After all this when the car idles in drive, the area where the torque converter sits starts vibrating. It stops when I place the car in neutral but starts again when the car idles. Its been doing this for awhile and it doesn't affect gas mileage or performance when in town but makes high speed driving a headache. I am completely at a lost. I googled and researched similar issues but nothing matches the symptoms. Could it be several issues caused a by a torque converter lockup failure, and a dead o2 sensor? I have no idea but would love some help...

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Location
    Chico, CA
    Posts
    29,847

    Default Re: Rpm Jerking...

    Check your torque converter bolts. Also the flex plate can crack.
    230 hp 4.3L Chevy
    Built 4L60E with manual lockout
    Atlas 4 speed
    Griffin radiator
    On board air
    Warn 9.5ti on custom bumper
    7.5" RE front and bastard pack rear on custom long arms
    30 gal gas tank
    lockers
    And a bunch of other stuff

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
    Location
    United States
    Posts
    26

    Default Re: Rpm Jerking...

    Ok so I am still a bit new... Would you care to explain what bolts I should check and where the tranny is located? Ty for the reply though

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Location
    Chico, CA
    Posts
    29,847

    Default Re: RPM Jerking...

    You have to pull the inspection plate on the front of the bell housing. There you will see the flex plate, like a thin fly wheel. There will be three or four short bolts that hold the torque converter on. They can work loose and cause the symptoms you describe. If they are loose, remove them one at a time and use some locktight on them. You will have to rotate the flex plate to get at all of them.
    230 hp 4.3L Chevy
    Built 4L60E with manual lockout
    Atlas 4 speed
    Griffin radiator
    On board air
    Warn 9.5ti on custom bumper
    7.5" RE front and bastard pack rear on custom long arms
    30 gal gas tank
    lockers
    And a bunch of other stuff

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