Transmission Question

[EekGirl96]

Oh and thanks to everyone else who gave their input, i really appreciate it

[UpstateXJ]

Hmmm, in that case I would look into getting it rebuilt. I used to have a 95 2wd and rebuilt the trans, engine and rear axle then sold it when I moved. Way I looked at it, was cheaper than a payment lol

[EekGirl96]

Still not a favorable option since we're getting a house and all the money is going into that...but if it comes to that idk, ill shop around just incase

[NW99XJ]

If you swap trannys you'll more than likely have to change the driveline as well. There's a size difference between the auto and manuals, and its enough that you'll need a different driveline.

One other thing I forgot to ask, is whether or not you've recently done a fluid swap (I thought I remember hearing/reading something about you doing this recently) ...if so, and if you used the wrong kind of fluid, the tranny wont shift properly.
It says that is is compatible with Dexron III, so you should be fine, as long as thats what you used.... Dex/Merc III compatible is what you want.

I would NOT use ATF+4, no matter what the bulletin from Chrysler from a few years ago says. Some AW4 transmissions can get by with it, but some suffer from some "slippage" with the ATF+4, which is a very different formulation.

Pretty much all automatic transmission fluid uses a 10-vis ("weight" is a misnomer, the proper term is "viscosity," which refers to the flow rate of the fluid, the ability to flow through small orifices, and the general "sticking ability" of the fluid on an open surface that is not horizontal)....It's more a hydraulic fluid than anything else.

The primary difference between automatic transmission fluid types is the contents of the additive package - detergents, corrosion inhibitors, foaming inhibitors, friction modifiers, etc. An automatic is not a "Transmission without a clutch" - there are in fact several clutches in an automatic! You just don't have to operate them, they're hydraulically-actuated wet clutches.

The problem you run into is the various friction modifiers. The Dexron (GM, Toyota, and other imports) uses different FM additives than Type F (older Fords) and ATF + series (newer ChryCo.) The old Mercon (older ChryCo) was close enough to the Dexron spec that they were eventually merged into Dexron/Mercon.

Type F did not have various generations - and it makes a very useful hand and parts cleaner (it's very highly detergent.)

ATF + series uses different friction modifiers than Dexron/Mercon - and you will get clutch chatter and slippage if you use +3/+4 in place of Dexron (particularly in the AW4. Even tho there is a ChryCo TSB out that says the new +4 can be used in place of Dexron, reports from the field are not encouraging.) <-- this may be what you're experiencing.

Dexron/Mercon series is what the AW4 (a Toyota design) wants. The box was designed for Dexron II, but the later specs (IIE, III, VI) are all reverse-compatible and should have worked well.

[EekGirl96]

Wow lots of info, thanks! I did change the fluid recently the problem im having occurred before and after the fluid change. Also if i do change the tranny ill keep it as an automatic.

[NW99XJ]

Well I was hoping that would help somewhat. And I was hoping (for your sake) that it WAS just a fluid issue, either in type or amount.
Good idea on keeping it auto.... Probably less work in the long run that way.
CherokeeNat.92 DID have some good advice..... you could try swapping out the solenoids first, even using JY ones to start the troubleshooting process. Easy swap and inexpensive fix if that ends up being the case.
GOOD LUCK!

[EekGirl96]

Thanks, im going to try the solenoids first,...hopefully thats the problem

[Xjcountry666]

Its a whole new or rebuilt 5 speed tranmission. I'm looking to put one in my 96 xj country .

[Delta 2 Oscar]

Just bringing this thread back up to see if a solution has been found.

[Comanche91]

Have you tried adjusting the Throttle Valve cable (commonly called the kickdown cable) at the throttle body? If maladjusted it will cause your AW4 shifting points to be all over the place. Takes no tools and about five minutes to do.



1: Push in and hold the release button
2: While holding in release button, push "conduit" in as far as it will go
3: Release the button.
4: Rotate the throttle to wide open, either with a helper pressing the gas pedal or hold the throttle wide open with the linkage.
5: The cable should ratchet out to it's correct position.
6: Your TV cable should now be properly adjusted.
7: Test drive.

HTH