How to change rear wheel bearings

Had to change the left rear wheel bearing on the XJ today. It has about 300K on it and has been driving me nuts :bang: with noise.

My 86 XJ came with the infamous Dana 35, however one plus is that I have non C clip axles. The plate on the outside of the axle bearing holds the bearing in and thus the axle.

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To start, jack up the rear, remove the wheel and brake drum. It should just slide off.

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Next, there is a small plate with four bolts on it that holds the axle in. These must be removed next. It is not necessary to remove any part of the brake assembly.

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If you have ever wanted an excuse to get one of those flexible ratchet wrenches, this is the time

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The plate should slide freely off the studs like this.

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Next, the axle should be able to be removed. However if you have C clip axles, you will have to remove the differential cover and rotate the carrier to the appropriate position and remove the C clip first. To remove the axle, you will need a slide hammer. These can be rented or borrowed from many parts stores.

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Since the wheel bearing was shot, the outer race stayed in the axle housing. But not to worry, slide hammer kits have a small gear puller that attaches to the end. Use the reverse jaws. It will remove easily.


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Next you will have to remove the bearing from the axle. It has two pieces, the inner bearing race and a safety ring. To remove the safety ring, get the big effin hammer out and a good sharp cold chisel. Drive the point of the chisel into the safety ring. It is soft and doing so will make it slightly larger.

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This is about how far you have to drive the chisel in. This ring almost came off in my hand. If still secure, use the chisel to drive it off.

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Next, you have to remove the inner race. It is much harder than the chisel, so you will have to drive it off using the chisel like this. If you look closely, you will see that the race has already moved about 1/16". BE CREFUL NOT TO TRY TO MOVE THE INNER RACE BY DRIVING THE CHISEL BETWEEN THE AXLE AND RACE. This will damage the seal surface and then you will get to buy a new axle. Make sure the chisel only touches the bearing race.

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Here the race is moved a little more. You must make sure the chisel does not touch the shaft here also. Scoring the axle will make it difficult to press the new bearing on.

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The first thing to go back on is the new seal. Make sure the little retainer plate is still on the axle. The seal has an inner and outer lip. It is made to seal both ways. Fill the inner area with grease so it will always remain lubricated. This is the only grease that will be in this area

[ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=97LGtsVH87s[/ame]

Next, you must pack the new bearing with grease. It only comes with enough lubricant to assemble and keep it from corroding. Click on the video to see how to do it.

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Next the bearing needs to be pressed on. I could do it in my press, but setting it up was not worth the trouble. Grind the end of the cold chisel flat and place it on the inner race and hit it with the hammer. Alternate sides and it will go on easily.

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Repeat the procedure with the safety ring.

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Now you are ready to put it back in the axel tube. When it gets to the carrier it will stop. Just push down a little on the axle shaft and rotate slightly and it will find its way into the spider gears. Reattach the slide hammer and use the slider to knock the new bearing in. It needs to be snug. At this point, you need to insert the C clip if you have one and bolt the cover on and fill with new oil.

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The bearing will be in place, but the seal will not. This might look daunting, but it is not. Put the retainer plate in place, put all four nuts back on and slowly and evenly tighten them. This will press the seal in place. Make sure the nuts are all the way tightened down. It is the retainer plate pushing on the outer ring of the seal which pushes on the outer bearing race which keeps the axle in place.

Put the wheel back on, torquing the lug nuts down to 75# and you are done.

this will come very handy, thanks for taking the time .

Very good pics and description. Using a hammer and chisel in the process is a little scary to me and certainly is not an easy job. Certainly would be very costly to damge axle shafts and have to replace them along with the bearing as you stated.

I have not done on axles but have experience working in a large electric motor shop. We would use a torch with a soft flame to heat the inner race only while still on the shaft. It doesn't take a lot of heat or time to expand the inner race. A good adjustable flame propane torch should work if you don't have a oxy/acetylene rig. Once heated, try to pry lightly on the race. If it moves easily remove it by hand using hot work gloves of course.

To install new bearings, we used a bearing heater. The average weekend guy working on his XJ is not going to have a bearing heater. An alternative is to use a toaster oven to heat the complete bearing. Don't do it in the kitchen. You may want to buy a new one for the house though. The old on can be used in the garage from now on. Use enough heat to allow the new bearing to expand being care not to liquify the grease. There will be a little smoke so keep the door open or fan on in the garage. When heated the bearing should slip onto the fit on the axle easily. If snug, turn up the toasted oven a litte and try again. Once the bearing is on, verify the inner race is bottomed on the stop.

Again, I have not done this on an axle but motor bearing and axles bearing are virtually the same. What are your thoughts on this?
Dave

I understand what you are saying. However getting the outer race off requires destroying it. Had a mechanic show me with a rag over it and a big hammer. I have a nifty scar on my knuckle from forty years ago to show for my efforts. The chisel thing, or the punch thing is the alternative. Also I shy away from having a novice use a torch on an axle. I can cut the race off and not damage the axle with one. However at about 400° you start taking the hardness out of the axle in a measurable way.

Steve,
Understood man. A torch can do just as much or more damage if used incorrectly. I did forget to mention that part of the process was to wrap a piece of damp welding cloth or blanket ( fireproof woven glass cloth ) around the shaft on either side of the inner race to protect the shaft before heat was applied. Torch/heat was focused on the race and kept the shaft cooler. The difference in temp. between them is the most important part of the removal process.

We used abrasive cut-off disc's with a small air grinder to make two cuts in the outer race 180 degrees apart then hit it with a BFH to remove it before the heating part. Bearings themsleves are not much of a problem to remove to get to the the inner race after the outer is off.

I understand too how difficult the outer race and bearing can be. Have had a bloody nuckle or two in my time. The hard metal can be like a razor blade if cracked. Haven't and don't want to experience a severe cut myself or have it happen to anyone else for that matter.
Later,
Dave

Is that an aluminum bumper I see? Just noticed it. Cool. Fab it yourself or are they available from a vendor? Thanks in advance Steve.
Later.........
Dave

i used heat when i done the rear bearings on my 95 xj..c-clip dana 35.....




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How much does this cost if a shop does it?