Starting a build

Newbie Going to be starting a build on a 99 xj sport with 237,000 miles. Talked to couple friends who have done many things to there jeeps. Of course going to start off with lift and tires. Thinking iron rock long arm 6.5 lift with 35" km2's. Some friends say I should re-gear to 4.56 on my front Dana 30 and rear Chrysler 8.25. May go with 4.5 or 5.5 lift and 33" km2's so don't have to re-gear possibly. Also been told to buy rcv axle set. There a bit pricey though.

Then other things I'm planning on are....
smittybilt front bumper, rear bumper, rock sliders.
Winch to go on bumper.
Roof rack to hold spare tire and hi-lift.
Fender flares.
1 ton steering.

Any help on what I should do first or any suggestions on other things to do or not to do is helpful.

Mitch, there isn't anything that really has to be done first. Do it as you can. But I can say that your 3.55 or 3.07 gears are too tall for 35s. If you reagear you will eventually make it up in gas milage. As to lift, 6.5" is as tall as you can go without steering modifications. You should plan on a slip yoke eliminator to go with the lift. You will have driveline problems if you don't. As far as the front axles goes, heavier axles depend on whether or not you put a locker in it or type of terrain you wheel and some driving style thrown in

Welcome to :xjtalk1: from Delaware!! I'd say if you want to lift/and run larger tires and stay a bit cheap w/ not having to regear... at least not up front.. then I would say run the 6.5" w/ 33's.. You'll loose a little bit of pep.. but won't be hugely noticeable and you'll still be more then satisfied with that setup... at least long enough that you could save up for regear.. I ran a 6.5" lift on my 98 w/ 33's on stock gearing for over 3 years, and never had any issues getting down the highway, or even shooting across a highway daily.. never had any issues with her getting out of her own way... Wasn't the most ideal setup. but worked just fine.. I will certainly say if you can swing it... definitely make sure you run the LA setup over a short arm setup...

So doing 6.5 long arm and 33's I could get away without re-gearing? Planned on sye with this lift. And if I get lockers I wouldn't have to do rcv in front?

The tire size will dictate the gearing. 33s have and can be done on stock gears but you will notice a difference. The lift height has nothing to do with it. But on what height to go with depends on whether you want to step up in tire size later and what clearances you want. If 35s are in your future go with the 6.5", but if you're gonna stay with 33s and want more stability on road and off the 4.5-5.5" will be better, although some trimming will need to happen but 33s will need that anyway since these wheel openings are undersized.

Rcv shafts are the ultimate axle shafts you can get for the Dana 30 but the price makes them not feasible in my opinion. You could probably get a Dana 44 and swap it in cheaper. But if you want to keep the 30, they probably will save you some time changing broken u-joints and shafts if you're rough on them.

Sent via messenger pigeon. I talk, he types.

The "difference" for me with 32's and 3.55 gears was 10 miles to the gallon, plus passing gear trying to maintain speed normal height highway over passes.

Yeah, if it's a daily driver I don't think regearing is optional.

Won't be a daily driver. Just at first driven to off road places near me. And eventually will buy a trailer to tow it around incase if I brake something while wheeling. So since rcv sets are the ultimate thing for Dana 30. Is there another type of cv joint that I c oils do that'll last long and cheaper than the rcv?

The 99 already has the large front axle U joint. You really have a decent axle under there. What kind of terrain are you going to wheel?

Well I live in Fort Wayne. Closest mud parks are in Michigan and middle of Indiana by Indianapolis. So mainly mud. Not rock crawling.

OK, this makes a huge difference. Mud, outside of getting into the diff, is not that hard on the D30. Your current axle shafts will hold up to anything you do in mud. I would not get too worried and overbuild unless you plan on doing high flying competition or something

High flying competition. U mean flexing competition?? I was just worried bout the u joints when flexing in trails and stuff. I believe some of the off road mud parks can get challenging.

Just about any of the U joints can get weak with at full turn and a wheel gets full traction and the vehicle won't move. That being said though, I wheel rocks and haven't lost one yet with a locked 30

A lot of what matters is traction, and when that traction comes in. Mud has little traction, whereas rocks can have lots of traction and sporadically causing jolts to the axles. The other factor is throttle, more throttle more chance for breakage... typically.

Sent via messenger pigeon - i talk, he types.

Well as I've been taking all this in and reading sounds like for the off reading I will be doing I shoudlnt need the rcv set just yet. So I think I will go with the iron rock 6.5, slip yoke eliminator, re-gear to 4.56 front and rear, and get 35" km2's. Now for the tires would it be ok to still use stock rims or should I get some steel 15" rims. The black pro comp steel 15x10 r cheap price. Also anybody know bolt pattern? Any other suggestions on stuff to do? Other than what I plannes later in my original post.

Ok quick question. I can get hell of a deal on some 36x13.5 Bfg km2's but they for 18 inch rims. There a way to get this under my xj??? I don't know if I can get 18" rims on xj bolt pattern and if I am able to do this I know I will definitely have to re-gear. Any help?!?

36s would be pushing it. You would need that 6.5" lift and some bump stopping and heavy cut on the fenders. If the bolt pattern is right you can mount the rims. 5X4.5"