How do I know what the arch should be on my leaf springs?
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How do I know what the arch should be on my leaf springs?
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Are you talking free arch or ride height?
Well, to be honest, I don't know exactly what that means. Free arch? Mine under ol Cheapokee are just about flattened, looking at new ones and they're all listed with different arches.
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Stock free arch is 4". That is the distance between an imaginary line between the spring eyes and the top of the spring. This is done with no weight on it
So how many inches do I add for a 3.5" lift?
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If the spring rate is the same, then 3.5". But what site are yo looking at?
Morris 4x4
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I've gotten a lot of my stuff there, and I haven't quite found a more budget friendly site yet
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So you may have read in other threads that I'm having my suspension redone. Because of the blown shocks in front and the two broken leafs in the back, my new 3" suspension lift is putting 1.5"-2"back into the height. Here's my question. If I decided to break down and add the rough country 2"body spacers to my order I'm putting in for the steering components, will I need to start dropping my transfer case, buy longer drive shafts, extended brake lines and so on? I'm guessing the spacer kit would add another 1.5" giving me 4.5"of lift all together. Jeep in mind, she is still my daily driver
When you go from 3" and add that extra anything to it, you then need to add a number of components and start spending money. Your costs go up exponentially at 4.5" again at 6.5" and 8" even more.
You can Mickey Mouse it if you want, but to do it right and keep it drivable and working properly, you will need to at a minimum get new shocks, relocate the front brake line and get a new one for the rear. A slip yoke eliminator will probably be required, but some can get by with a transfer case drop and axle shims. You will also need longer lower control arms. But it is better to go with a long arm conversion. A new track bar will also be needed, preferably adjustable
Well then, sounds like I'll leave it just the way it is then and upgrade what's there instead. I've spent the last 9 months ignoring problems because I bought a house this year and put no money in the jeep, now that I'm settling in and have my budget reworked, it's being too easy to spend on ol Cheapokee
Three inch is a good lift for the average XJ. Of course more always has a cool factor thrown in. It is a good lift for most wheeling unless you get into high clearance situations in large rocks or something like that
I am still pretty green to the jeep lifestyle, now that I'm finally gonna be able to trust the ride on the xj, I'll finally start looking for a good set of ohv trails near me, the closest is looking like the park in marble falls, Texas. Has anyone experienced these trails in Texas or can anyone recommend a good set of trails an hour two from central Texas
I'm kind of in the same boat as you. All my shocks are shot and my rear springs are starting to S wrap. I was looking at doing something cheap like a 4" lift, but the more I look into it I think 5.5". I end up going from like $500-2500 real quick in components.
I guess the good thing is I know everything down there will be new and should last awhile.
Hate to somewhat hijack this, but it is concerning suspensions and lifts. I'm looking at picking up a 6.5" lift before next month. My main question is that it comes with axle shims and t-case drop. Can I get by with that for a few weeks before I pick up an SYE and custom rear drive shaft the next check? Mind you it won't be wheeled and I'll only be using it for an 8 mile round trip a day, all country roads and no traffic or need to travel a certain speed. Kit already comes with an adjustable track bar, drop pitman arm, the extended brake lines, ect.
Only thing I can see me needing is the SYE and longer drive shaft. Next month I should be able to pick up some long arms.
the answer is probably. Just make sure your pinion angle is correct and it should work
Thanks. Think I'm going to give the rough country 6.5 a go.