Rear Sway Bar?

[Pookapotamus]

HI all,

After reading Detours build post, And getting ready to install my rear 4 link this weekend, I am really starting to contemplate the idea of a rear sway bar to make sure that Mortis still has good road manners.

I have heard that there is a way to use an anti-rock set up for the back but haven't been able to find info on it.

Detours set up looks good too, but could not find it on his website.

Also have to consider what I can get up here in the land of hockey and igloos.

so... what are my options? what have you guys used? pro's & con's? Should I go with a always connected set up, or a disco set up?

Thanks in advance, Pook.

[4.3LXJ]

Hey Pook, I have considered that myself. I currently have a front 3 link that I cannot use the stock sway bar on due to clearance issues on my new indestructible track bar. So, I will let you in on a little secret I have been mulling over in my fertile mind. You will be able to use this front and rear on your fully linked suspension, which is what I plan to do. Personally, I think this is the best solution, but maybe I am biased. Anyway, it goes like this. Make your own. The current stock front sway bar is 7/8" in diameter. So the plan is to use one for the front and one for the rear. Stock rubber and aftermarket poly bushings are available for this diameter of sway bar. The real secret of the Anti Rock sway bar is that it has long arms on it so it doesn't affect the full articulation of the suspension. The longer arms on it give the springs much more leverage, about twice the leverage of the arms on the stock sway bar. But, the pressure to reduce swaying on the frame is the same at the frame. Using this concept, I will have two made out of 7/8" rod and bent twice in a forge or bend them myself with a rose bud in the shop and have them run through the fire and dipped in oil for temper. The configuration will be that the bushings for them will run at the center of the vehicle on the bottom of the cross member that also coincides with the pivot points the linked suspension. Then just attach the arms of the bent rod to the suspension links, in my case with more bushings. I think this is the ultimate way to go. It will give equal antisway for the front and rear suspension at the center of the vehicle instead of the ends, and allow full articulation without the need to disconnect. Do some homework and this is probably the cheapest way you can go with a cost of about the same as one Curie Anti Rock.

[DETOURS]

A TJ friend of mine did the full Clayton long arm/rear 4 link set up getting rid of all the factory stuff.......he too ended up going back to a rear sway bar, stock for what thats worth, much more comfortable with his rig now.

Mine is night & day.....

There is actually enough meat, if you have the heat.....to reforge the ends on your stock rear sway to make it adjustable.....that was Hellwig's working prototype in the begining.

You can also build your own Currie style sway bar out of racing catalogs for about 200 bucks......

[Pookapotamus]

Still don't know what I will do but I am leaning towards the currie setup, just because I don't have the tools to modify a stock sway bar. And I do want to run a rear sway on the trail.