4.3LXJ
01-29-2012, 04:14 PM
I think this is a subject that is now timely. Some of us on this forum have departed from brass radiators and bought aluminum aftermarket radiators. They generally cool better and can be cheaper. However, they have one drawback. If you get a leak, radiator shops will not touch them. So, you put up with the leak or you get another one. Personally, I don't like the throw away mentality, unless it is my D35 rear end :D So my son ran across some aluminum solder at a trade show and bought some. He had the idea that since he has an aluminum Mighty Mite he could fill in some holes. I however, not only have a Mighty Mite full of extra holes, but a leak in my aluminum radiator. So I did some practicing today with this stuff. I have a MIG that will weld aluminum, and I have gas welded aluminum with a flux cored aluminum rod. But even though I have welded stuff like air conditioning cores, which are a little thicker than pop cans, I can't use that stuff without deforming the aluminum a little. So I decided to try this solder.
It doesn't look like anything fancy.
http://i649.photobucket.com/albums/uu215/warriorsuspension/Build%20Stuff/IMG_1534.jpg
It is available at M&T Enterprises
Medford,OR
541-499-2644
[email protected]
Cost is $35 per pound
I first chose a piece of scrap that had a 1/8" slot cut out of it. Thought I would test the limits first, I don't know why.
http://i649.photobucket.com/albums/uu215/warriorsuspension/Build%20Stuff/IMG_1529.jpg
The instructions, who reads those anyway, says to clean the aluminum. So I buffed it with a rotary scotch brite pad on my die grinder.
http://i649.photobucket.com/albums/uu215/warriorsuspension/Build%20Stuff/IMG_1530.jpg
Filling a slot can be done, but I need a little more practice to do it well. I lost it once on the floor from too much heat. Also had too much heat in the whole thing because I am used to getting stuff to flow. Apparently, you drag your puddle with the end of the rod while applying a slight pressure to the surface. You have to have enough heat to make it stick, but not enough to deform the aluminum. I used a propane torch for this job
http://i649.photobucket.com/albums/uu215/warriorsuspension/Build%20Stuff/IMG_1533.jpg
So I got another piece of scrap and laid it on top, with a slight gap. I used the dragging the puddle trick. It works. In this application, which would be like patching a large hole, the little piece takes less heat. So I drug a thin puddle down the edge of the little piece, then directed the flame more on the large piece and drug another puddle and joined the two as I did. The soldier on top was done last. The only improvement I would make on this is to clean the surface of the rod of oxidation with a stainless steel brush. There seems to be some slag that doesn't melt. I am assuming that is the oxidation on the rod.
In a couple of days, I will pull the radiator and repair it.
It doesn't look like anything fancy.
http://i649.photobucket.com/albums/uu215/warriorsuspension/Build%20Stuff/IMG_1534.jpg
It is available at M&T Enterprises
Medford,OR
541-499-2644
[email protected]
Cost is $35 per pound
I first chose a piece of scrap that had a 1/8" slot cut out of it. Thought I would test the limits first, I don't know why.
http://i649.photobucket.com/albums/uu215/warriorsuspension/Build%20Stuff/IMG_1529.jpg
The instructions, who reads those anyway, says to clean the aluminum. So I buffed it with a rotary scotch brite pad on my die grinder.
http://i649.photobucket.com/albums/uu215/warriorsuspension/Build%20Stuff/IMG_1530.jpg
Filling a slot can be done, but I need a little more practice to do it well. I lost it once on the floor from too much heat. Also had too much heat in the whole thing because I am used to getting stuff to flow. Apparently, you drag your puddle with the end of the rod while applying a slight pressure to the surface. You have to have enough heat to make it stick, but not enough to deform the aluminum. I used a propane torch for this job
http://i649.photobucket.com/albums/uu215/warriorsuspension/Build%20Stuff/IMG_1533.jpg
So I got another piece of scrap and laid it on top, with a slight gap. I used the dragging the puddle trick. It works. In this application, which would be like patching a large hole, the little piece takes less heat. So I drug a thin puddle down the edge of the little piece, then directed the flame more on the large piece and drug another puddle and joined the two as I did. The soldier on top was done last. The only improvement I would make on this is to clean the surface of the rod of oxidation with a stainless steel brush. There seems to be some slag that doesn't melt. I am assuming that is the oxidation on the rod.
In a couple of days, I will pull the radiator and repair it.