Rear axle problem... swap or repair

[xj9]

Ok, got my lift all done RE3.5 with RE sye+ driveshaft combo on a 2001 with a 242 case with D35 rear. Everything is good except for the fact that i noticed my rear drum on the drivers side is leaking and has been for awhile. Had the mechanic look at it while he was aligning it and the seal is out along with the bearing. Now the bearing has been replaced before with a kit that hammers onto the axle, so if i had it fixed it would have to get a new axle on the drivers side with new seals and bearings and brakes at a quote aound $650-700 to keep the D35. I added the option of getting a 8.25 to him from the Junk yard.. their price is $375. So would i need to replace the seals and bearings along with the brakes or could i just do brakes? He quoted around $750-800 for seals, bearings, and brakes with new fluid? Im not much of a mechanic, and lack the tools and time.. this is a daily driver.... What do i do? If i swap to the 8.25 i heard the pinion shaft of the pumpkin to the driveshaft is about an inch longer and am worried that would make the New RE driveshaft i purchased too short?.. which would not be good. Looks like about 1.5" of travel on the shaft as it sits now, which isnt much. What do you all think? Im trying to keep it bolt in, as opposed to fabbing shock mounts and all that stuff as i dont have money for all that. Heres the Junkyard link... http://search1086.used-auto-parts.biz/inventory/retail.htm shoot me some ideas, i'd honestly like to upgrade to the 8.25 for piece of mind, but fear it will interfere with the new RE shaft length when compressed? How much play do i need on the shaft? Thanks for your time.

[4.3LXJ]

I don't understand why you have to replace the axle shaft. Bearings go on and and off. You can do it yourself if you want for about $50. Here is a link

http://www.xjtalk.com/showthread.php?t=7256

[xj9]

He said it was a repair kit with grooves that actually sticks out about 1/4 further or so that gets hammered on as opposed to a regular replacement bearing. sometimes they work sometimes they dont. Im not really sure i guess, as i havent seen it, and dont really know much about to be honest, thats why im asking. Thanks for the link.

[bluedragon436]

I think if it were me, I would pick up the 8.25 for sure.. But that is just me.. As far as the driveshaft.. you should have enough play in the length to cover the difference between the D35 and the 8.25.. But you can always extend your DS to its full length to make sure you'll have enough slack to cover it at full droop. I would think that you should be ok as far as the DS goes though.. I know most kits just ask for what lift height you are running, I haven't seen too many of them that ask what axle, so not sure it will make a whole lot of difference..

[jeepxj95]

I think if it were me, I would pick up the 8.25 for sure.. But that is just me.. ..

thats what i would do if the 35 died in the 90. my 95 already has the 8.25 so no worries

[xj9]

im leaning towards the 8.25 for sure. im just worried that with the new RE driveshaft i payed for at the time of my sye, that the 8.25 pinion yolk being 1'' longer, my new shaft wouldnt work do to not having enough play in it when compressed over bumps and such.

[uberxj92]

im leaning towards the 8.25 for sure. im just worried that with the new RE driveshaft i payed for at the time of my sye, that the 8.25 pinion yolk being 1'' longer, my new shaft wouldnt work do to not having enough play in it when compressed over bumps and such.

driveshafts are cheap to have shortened at most welding shops.
but the 8.25 is a very good upgrade. lost of after market stuff for them too.
i broke the d35 turd in my 92, replaced it with a ford 8.8. got lucky picked up the 8.8 with discs & limited slip for $92 at an LKQ sale. local God's at the local 4x4 shop ( Muddy Rock) installed it & did the brakes & shackles for me for $200. have been so happy with it.