Steering, track bar and D30

[07Negative]

I'm trying to sort out some ideals. Would like some opinions. I've been weighting the options with my D30 and steering. Thought about getting a D44 but decided it might be over kill for me at this time. So I'm going to build on my D30. I do want to truss it. Originally looked at TNT Custom, but it's way too expensive! The IRO is way cheaper.
So now I'm thinking. Do I do OTK steering? Advantages of doing so? I'm ready to buy a new steering setup to get ride of my Rustys steering conversion. I plan on getting this: http://www.seriousoffroadproducts.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=1231_1247&products_id=89965.
And I'll be replacing my Rustys HD track bar with TNT Custom. I worked out a deal with them since I'll be getting their LA kit.
My dilemma is that I'll have to wait to install track bar and steering until I can afford the means to have all the mess removed from my axle to weld on the truss. I want to avoid regrets and buying twice.
I'm trying to get my Jeep redy for a road trip to Colorado.
Details on the Jeep. Currently at a 4.5" lift. But will go up another inch once I address current build goals (long arm, cooling system, etc). I current have 32" tires but want to run 35's after I go up that 1 inch. I will also be upgrading the inner & outers and doing a selectable locker to the D30. When money permits of course.
Any opinions or advance is greatly appreciated.

[Firemanray]

How hard do you plan to wheel your XJ? I've seen some stupid stuff get dished on a stock D30 without any ill side effects. I would upgrade control arms and do a ZJ tie rod conversion then spend your time and money on other more usefull upgrades.

[4.3LXJ]

Deejay, the weak point with the XJ is the tie rod. They fold up easily. The ZJ tie rod, available at wrecking yards cheap, is a good upgrade. One tone steering is cool, but not necessary. It is not the TIEs that fail, it is the tie rod itself.

[07Negative]

The steering conversion came on the jeep when I got it. The TRE need to be replace at this time. I've been considering the 1 ton due to OTK. And I recently read that OTK will help with geometry of drag link & track bar for when I go up that inch.
I get hung up on all the options. I don't mind spending the money if it's for the better. I even like this: http://bulletproofsteering.com/jeeppricingoptions.html.
But it states not DOT approved for use on public roads or highways.
I'm not a "hard core" wheeler b/c I can't afford to replace expensive parts every weekend. But I do go to the Rubicon. I'd like to do more of the trails there that I've been chicken to attempt. So I can't really say how hard I anticipate to wheel.

[bigjim350]

I have 6.5" of lift and with the zj v8 tie rod my steering geometry seems fine, although its not a DD.

[07Negative]

It is not the TIEs that fail, it is the tie rod itself.

Not to argue or anything. But I was reading this: http://bulletproofsteering.com/failedrodend.html

Now I know to take things with a grain of salt. But would a system like this be over kill? Not that I'm against going over kill. Just tryna learn and figure out what to do. I'm not necessarily looking for the cheap route. I'd rather accomplish a quality steering setup.
I have a AGR steering gear box I'll be putting in as well. I've been hoarding parts.

[Firemanray]

The ball and joint in a tie rod fail due to lack of grease and wear. Sure if you run it long enough in dirty conditions with no maintenance it will wear down and fall out. I just the Zj upgrade on mine today, that Zj tie rod is probably twice as strong (or more) as the stock Xj. Drives great and not a killer to the pocket book.

[4.3LXJ]

Not to argue or anything. But I was reading this: http://bulletproofsteering.com/failedrodend.html

Now I know to take things with a grain of salt. But would a system like this be over kill? Not that I'm against going over kill. Just tryna learn and figure out what to do. I'm not necessarily looking for the cheap route. I'd rather accomplish a quality steering setup.
I have a AGR steering gear box I'll be putting in as well. I've been hoarding parts.

Deejay, the pic they showed is what happens with too much lift. If you look closely at the pic, it is egged out on a line parallel to the rest of the link. That is caused by forcing the tie rod end into an angle is was not designed to make. You can get more angle out of spherical rod ends, but if you are running at the height I saw you last, this is not a problem. As far as strength of the tie rod end itself, it usually boils down to a lubrication issue or being loose on the steering arm. Very rarely do they sheer off. Generally if the rod end is in good shape, the metal it is in will fail first being cast iron and softer than the shaft of the TIE. To actually go up in strength on the TIE, you need to put in one with a larger shaft in it. Considering the size of the steering arm on the knuckle, that is overkill in my opinion. The other issue I have with that style is that the wear surfaces are not protected by any dust cover, and some are not even greasable. They often wear over time and loosen up and need to be replaced.

[MudRaider]

We used to use those spherical rod ends in VW dune buggies all the time, frequently getting 20-30 feet of air at 40+ mph and never have issues. definitely a way to remove that part from your mind

[07Negative]

Steve: I talked to a buddy who really knows how to break it down for my simple mind. Both concepts are very understandable. I think I'm going to stick with traditional tie rod ends opposed to the spherical thing. I think I might even give it a try at making my own. It couldn't or shouldn't be as expensive as most folks are offering them for. I'll just seek out the best quality TRE I can find. One of the fellas at TNT Customs told me to go to Napa Auto Supply. They carry a quality name brand.
I'm just trying (probably too hard) to not have any more buyers remorse. I appreciate everyones input. I greatly appreciate it.