Pre Stroker Build "Parts" the gathering! Need a AMC 258 crank!

[Mudderoy]

I'm looking for a AMC 258 crankshaft #3214723

I've done some basic online searching including ebay and found one in Turkey, yes Turkey, for $295 and $225 shipping! :crazy: :yack:

[4.3LXJ]

Hey Tony, my son has an app on his droid that surfs Craigs list for a preprogrammed word or two. He uses it to search for Mighty Mite parts. Works well for him.

[Mudderoy]

Hey Tony, my son has an app on his droid that surfs Craigs list for a preprogrammed word or two. He uses it to search for Mighty Mite parts. Works well for him.

I was thinking I would find one online, but okay I'll give the craiglist app a try. Thanks.

[bigjim350]

i really think you will regret building a stroker. Expect more cooling problems...

[Mudderoy]

i really think you will regret building a stroker. Expect more cooling problems...

I think that will depend on how thick the cylinder walls are won't it? I'm not planning on going over .030

[bigjim350]

I think that will depend on how thick the cylinder walls are won't it? I'm not planning on going over .030

That, and with the longer stroke you are firing off more gas, which heats up more. I would talk to somebody that lives in the south and DD's a stroker before you build one. I haven't met anybody that was happy with it yet.

[Mudderoy]

That, and with the longer stroke you are firing off more gas, which heats up more. I would talk to somebody that lives in the south and DD's a stroker before you build one. I haven't met anybody that was happy with it yet.

I've started digging around about this. It seems the problem is much like what we've been talking about here for awhile on the 4.0l. One stroker owner solved the problem by getting rid of the 3 row brass/copper and putting in the stock 2 row aluminum/plastic. It was running hot on the highway.

[LizardRunner]

Strokers always run hotter than a stock confguration. The longer stroke allows for more fuel and so when compresses, bingo hotter burn and more heat. An example would be my bike. stock motor will heat the pipes at the head to around 1100 degrees, my stroker heats that area to 1800 degrees. others with my same bike stock no overheating problems, ever. I overheat at long stop lights once the engine is up to temp. Oh yeah, strokers are also notorious for being cold natured when first fired up or after they have cooled down and look for around a 2-5% increase in fuelishness.

the up side, more hp and a little more torque.

[DETOURS]

I have a hard time even believing you're considering this......the gains don't surpass the issues........nuff right there.

Wanna screw around, go 4.3 or small block.....:crazy:

[4.3LXJ]

I have a hard time even believing you're considering this......the gains don't surpass the issues........nuff right there.

Wanna screw around, go 4.3 or small block.....:crazy:

Oh yeah, 4.3:rolleye0012:

[DETOURS]

Mudd.....here's a post my friend made elsewhere:

i have a 4.7 i had built for thr last cj and didnt use. Im tired of looking at it sit in the shop all shrink wrapped. here is what it has.
built and short block assembled to a 4.7 by Dalena's machine shop in n/b 284 cubic inches
new custom piston (pin hieghts changed)
line bored, cyls bored to 3.906, cam bearings, rods and mains. reworked and balanced rods.
i have new not installed crane 753901 cam (will work with carb or inj), comp cams springs and lifters. no oil pump or timing chain included (used them on a repair job for someone else). the block is a 1/2 head bolt block. i also have oil pans, aluminum valve covers hardware and tons of misc that go with it. No head i couldnt make up my mind and stopped there. price is 1000.00 dplease dont insult me you guys no what this shit costs. a trade of something that might excite will be considered but cash is King and i really dont need anything. Ronnie


This is a 4.0 block, it's in Connecticut, even with shipping, you'd be likely ahead......The machine shop used is very well known for quality.
Any intrest, I'll hook you two up......it's said a stock head will bolt up.

[XJ4IV]

you suck... I need this part... your also gonna need the 258 rods

[XJ4IV]

heres a question for you folks... if your NOT having overheating issues and I have to rebuild the whole motor ANYHOW... would it be more beneficial for me to have a stroker... not boring it out at all just honing it out and putting new pistons new rods new rings and new cam new bearings and so on... basically everything new but no added bore just a 4.6 stroker

Also tony Ive found a crank at oreilly for 225$ and 39$ for a core

[jeepxj95]

u dont have to use the 4.2 rods alot of guys are using the 4 oh rods. check out jeepstrokers.com ask ????s and pm a few guys like dino cant remember his user name right now. good info i learned alot from that site.
they will point u in the direction u need to go in with any ????s and or issues

[dagr8tim]

Hmmm...I've never heard of the heat issues. I was really considering rebuilding my spare 4.0 into a stroker then dropping it in.

I was planning pretty much a mild build with a slightly more aggressive cam.

[bigjim350]

If you have ever seen a bare 4.0 block you would know the concerns. There are several places on the block that have a VERY thin casting. IMHO your asking for trouble by putting more stress on these areas, by compressing more air/fuel. just my .02

[dagr8tim]

So the question becomes how do you make relatively cheap HP in an XJ? Stroking was attractive because it wouldn't require any custom fab.

[bigjim350]

My question has always been, why do you need more hp out of a 4.0? A stock one has enough power to smoke 33's and break axles. With more power you just break more stuff more often.

[jeepxj95]

well then why would u put a v8 in a tj. less weight then a xj with the I 6

[bigjim350]

I figure you wouldnt, unless you upgrade the tranny and axles....

[jeepxj95]

yeah well the aw4 can handle the abuse and the 8.25 can 2 i wouldn't with the sh'ty five.

[jeepxj95]

that and when i build one its not hp im after its the monser load of tq :)

[bigjim350]

Okie dokie

[jeepxj95]

yeps that or a turbo set up jk no room 2 much heat and even more issues then a stroker

[Jarlaxle]

I fought the same issues...I have put close to 100,000 miles on a car where I am cooling a massive (542ci) stroker that more than triples the factory HP. I have what looks like a stock cooling system. The car is a 1979 Coupe de Ville (factory 180HP Cad 425). I built the car as a sleeper, looking like a stock CDV with dual exhausts...it runs 12.40's on the motor and 12-flat on spray. It stays col running 85MPH through hills on a 95 degree day or sitting in traffic in 100-degree heat with the A/C on. This is how I did it.

Radiator: high-efficiency 3-core Modine, painted with a light coat of flat black (seriously, that was worth 10 degrees!), stock size. There is no trans cooler, I run exclusively a huge external cooler.
Airflow: I ran a Service Chassis fan (more blades) with a HD clutch. I also spent about three hours with my head jammed into some weird places making ABSOLUTELY SURE that the (stock) shroud sealed properly. I went with a slightly-larger crank pulley to deal with it heating up on the highway due to low coolant flow and around town due to low fan speed. I do not use an electric fan. I removed the seal where the hood meets the cowl area to permit hot air to escape.
Water flow: I use a high-flow WP (spec'd for a 1973 Service Chassis), molded hoses (make SURE the bottom hose has a spring in it!), and flushed years of glop out of the system.
Single biggest help: I run Evans NPG+ waterless coolant. That stuff flat out WORKS. Bonus: nothing corrodes, even on an iron block/aluminum head motor...and you might get 20 years out of your next WP running it. Only downside? It's something like forty bucks a gallon. :(

On a stroker Cherokee, I would...
Louver the hood to let hot air out.
Get the largest radiator I could use.
High-flow WP, not a cheap part-store piece.
Make sure to use molded hoses.
Eliminate the in-rad trans cooler.
Run Evans colant!
Look for ways to open up the airflow path...no lights in the grille, no hi-mount winch, no huge push bumpers.

[jeepxj95]

Hmmm...I've never heard of the heat issues. I was really considering rebuilding my spare 4.0 into a stroker then dropping it in.

I was planning pretty much a mild build with a slightly more aggressive cam.

thats what i want to do to the 95

[LizardRunner]

on a 4.0 I would leave the bottom end alone. But I would look into a different cam grind, slightly larger valves or at least a three angle valve job. Smooth out (not Polish) the intake runners and chamfer any of the interior runner angles, match the ports (intake and exaust). Change out the injectors to 4 hole models. Custom tri-y exaust header built. Then I would think about the throttle body after some test runs on a dyno. That should get you what your looking for with out the headaches of building a stroker only to find out you cracked the webs in the lower end and get to now build a second one.

[Jarlaxle]

Grab this month's JP magazine! They have a follow-up on their stroker-powered Commanche pickup after 5000+ miles. :)

[XJ4IV]

u dont have to use the 4.2 rods alot of guys are using the 4 oh rods. check out jeepstrokers.com ask ????s and pm a few guys like dino cant remember his user name right now. good info i learned alot from that site.
they will point u in the direction u need to go in with any ????s and or issues

what it consists of is the 4.2 crank the 4.0 rods the 4.2 pistons! that creates a deeper stroke with a longer rod and a slightly shorter piston which creates a 4.6 without boring it out at all, you CAN bore it I think .030 over and you get a 5.0 6 cylinder... and you can go and buy the ford mustang 5.0 emblems and be TOTALLY cool... but then your gonna need a mullet...

[LizardRunner]

http://www.jeepstrokers.com/forum/index.php check this site out for just about any stroker motor in a jeep quirks, tips and darn good advice, questions answered too.

[bigjim350]

what it consists of is the 4.2 crank the 4.0 rods the 4.2 pistons! that creates a deeper stroke with a longer rod and a slightly shorter piston which creates a 4.6 without boring it out at all, you CAN bore it I think .030 over and you get a 5.0 6 cylinder... and you can go and buy the ford mustang 5.0 emblems and be TOTALLY cool... but then your gonna need a mullet...

You have to do a shit ton of machine work to build a 5.0 stroker

[Infidel Edition]

thats what i want to do to the 95

So did you do the CAM? Which 1 & thoughts?

... I'm gathering the bolt on parts to increase air flow ~ (new TB to filter flow, 2000 intake man., better exhaust and lose the cat....) As well as Neon injectors and upping the fuel pressure 7-10 PSI. and it has MSD ignition system (coil, wires, and distro)
... A CAM is the next logical performance upgrade.

* I hear getting the cylinders boards generally leads to leakage. And see that getting a light bore like .020 is better???

[dagr8tim]

I've got a 232 out of a CJ, and I'm seriously thinking of building a 4.2 mini stroker.

[bluedragon436]

I've got a 232 out of a CJ, and I'm seriously thinking of building a 4.2 mini stroker.

If you end up building a 4.2 mini stroker.. certainly remember to take pics and do a writeup.. I've been thinking about doing a mini stroker for my 97 XJ as the current engine has not been treated kindly prior to my owning of it... so preparing for the worst.. figure a little bit of performance gain out of it, is never a bad thing... especially if I can avoid the issues that the higher liter stroker usually end up having...

[dagr8tim]

If you end up building a 4.2 mini stroker.. certainly remember to take pics and do a writeup.. I've been thinking about doing a mini stroker for my 97 XJ as the current engine has not been treated kindly prior to my owning of it... so preparing for the worst.. figure a little bit of performance gain out of it, is never a bad thing... especially if I can avoid the issues that the higher liter stroker usually end up having...

If you have not checked it out, check out Jeepstrokers.com. That's the best source for all things stroked 4 liter.