NEWBEE needs your help (please)

[wyowagon]

New here hope I'm in the right place for this. I already own a 05 Power Wagon its set up just how i want it. I don't like the scars it receives from trail riding and elk hunting. I just picked up two XJ's a 85 and a 91 that both run for $300. I am looking to start with the basics on the 91 since its got the HO 4.0. I'm not sure what to check to start with except the basic tune up and drivability items like breaks and cooling. I am currently in the process of repairing the lower radiator support cross member due to a previous collision. since i have the front clip off i figure this would be a good time to give it a good inspection. Any help or suggestions are much appreciated. My goal it to build a solid reliable trail/hunting rig. I just want it to run strong for now and living in Wyoming emission are not a issue. Thanks for your help

[bigjim350]

Well since its been in a wreck, id check for any bent mounts or kinks in the subframe. Also I would check all the tie rod ends, trackbar, and ball joints.

[wyowagon]

great advice it seams to still drive straight and handle well at 30 mph the damage seams to be mainly to the cross member and the passenger side sub frame rail the fender wells are still straight i will check the steering components tomorrow it appears that some one did a hack job putting it back together in the process they re-welded the bent rad support back in place and welded a bumper back on using old barn steal

[Showtime3492]

may as well check for any cracks in the unibody, rust, etc typically on an xj it seems like they are attention whores and if somethin is off a little they make it known...just my opinion lol

[BlueXJ]

Check all the frontend rubber like tierod ends and trackbar mounts bushings may need replacement too. Get that all back together and drive it a bit to listen for noises and such.

The 85 may be a V6 and those motors were best suited to be boat anchors. They are easily replaced with a Chevy 4.3L V6 and those are reliable little powerhouses. We have a member who has done the swap and who has the info needed to make that modification. He is 4.3LXJ and may chime in here soon.

[4.3LXJ]

The 85 will have 4.10 gears, a good thing if you want to run 31 - 33 inch tires. As far as swapping engines goes, it is the 3.4L Camaro engine you want. Can be a direct bolt in for the V6.

Personally, I would make one good one out of the two if it was me. The price was right.

[wyowagon]

I was thinking I would build the 91 since it already has a strong running 4.0. I'm currently fabing up a new lower radiator brace and new bumper mounting tabs. I'm not sure the 85 front fenders and grill assembly will fit on the 91. I may have to just reuse the multicolored fenders that came with it. no problem it will eventually get a home grown camo splat from the trusty rattle can. Also looking to the future what wheel size would you run for 33's on a 4.5" long arm kit

[Showtime3492]

I was thinking I would build the 91 since it already has a strong running 4.0. I'm currently fabing up a new lower radiator brace and new bumper mounting tabs. I'm not sure the 85 front fenders and grill assembly will fit on the 91. I may have to just reuse the multicolored fenders that came with it. no problem it will eventually get a home grown camo splat from the trusty rattle can. Also looking to the future what wheel size would you run for 33's on a 4.5" long arm kit

33s = 15x8 wheel

[prerunner1982]

Generally the tire width and the wheel width need to be within 4" of each other.

A 33x12.50 tire should be on at least a 15x10" wheel.
A 33x10.50 tire should be on at least a 15x8" wheel.

People are going to tell you that they have run a 12.50" wide tire on an 8" wheel with no problems.. and generally there aren't however if width difference is too extreme it can cause the tread to wear in the middle, even if you are running the correct PSI.

The diameter of the tire itself does not dictate what width wheel you can run, it is the width of the tire you need to look at.

[4.3LXJ]

My rule of thumb is that the rim meeds to be the same wisth as thee tread

[xj4life2]

My rule of thumb is that the rim meeds to be the same wisth as thee tread

x2 !!

[wyowagon]

Ok so i know around a 7" side wall height is good all around dimmention for street and offroad I have 35.1250.17 on my 05 power wagon that do great offroad and on dry pavement but totals suck on ice and snow packed road due to the width of the tread I want to stick with a tire that is no wider than 33.1050 my question in staying with in the 7" sidewall height what rims size should i run with 33' tall tires 15", 16", or 17" wheel diameter for on street control and offraod performance even in a lower psi situations in i am looking at tall and skinny treads that will tuck up into the fender well nicely

[oderdene]

ok so i know around a 7" side wall height is good all around dimmention for street and offroad i have 35.1250.17 on my 05 power wagon that do great offroad and on dry pavement but totals suck on ice and snow packed road due to the width of the tread i want to stick with a tire that is no wider than 33.1050 my question in staying with in the 7" sidewall height what rims size should i run with 33' tall tires 15", 16", or 17" wheel diameter for on street control and offraod performance even in a lower psi situations in i am looking at tall and skinny treads that will tuck up into the fender well nicely

33"-17"=16" => 16"/2=8" > 7" :) closest one is 17" rim

[wyowagon]

I hope to have it back together and on the road this week. I will check the drive ability issues then. Iv been looking for cheep 17x8 steel wheels with not much luck. I'm also thinking of 285.70.17 tires since they are close to 33" tall. I think this combo will work well on and off road. I agree that's a good rule of thumb on a tire and wheel combo. The 1250's on my truck are on stock 8" inch wheels and they don't wear evenly across the tire. The outside lugs have inconsistent tread depth as if my shocks are bad or something but they are 3 month old Bilstine 5150's On another note has any one ripped out the carpet and replaced it with bed liner. Mine was wet and moldy so that stinky rug is gone. thanks for all you guys chiming in you are a big help.

[4.3LXJ]

It will work. However it will be noisy and hot in the summer time, even in WY

[wyowagon]

How about a vinyl carpet kit. Would that help insulate the cabin from the noise and heat? With the proper matting under it, it should work. I am afraid it may be louder than usual once I remove the cat and what ever smog junk I can. Not sure ware to start with that mess

[wyowagon]

so i drove the jeep tonight. I noticed a rattle in the front when i went over bumps and the steering felt fairly sloppy. I already knew all the rubber bushings in the suspension are shot. I put it up on the lift and found the track bar mount was really loose. I tightened it up and went for a ride. much better but now the bushing problem do i use OEM rubber or go with the poly bushings and who's prothane or energy. Oh and I removed the rust in the floor and coated it in a thick coat of self etching primer and sprayed it with another thick coat of rubberized undercoating the vinyl floor kit should be here this week thanks for your help on that issue. wheres the cheapest place to buy a lift and wheels and tires or any jeep accessory for that matter thanks again this site rocks :thumbsup::pinkribbon:

[Mudderoy]

so i drove the jeep tonight. I noticed a rattle in the front when i went over bumps and the steering felt fairly sloppy. I already knew all the rubber bushings in the suspension are shot. I put it up on the lift and found the track bar mount was really loose. I tightened it up and went for a ride. much better but now the bushing problem do i use OEM rubber or go with the poly bushings and who's prothane or energy. Oh and I removed the rust in the floor and coated it in a thick coat of self etching primer and sprayed it with another thick coat of rubberized undercoating the vinyl floor kit should be here this week thanks for your help on that issue. wheres the cheapest place to buy a lift and wheels and tires or any jeep accessory for that matter thanks again this site rocks :thumbsup::pinkribbon:

If you are talking about the bushing that hold the upper control arms to the axle, I bought a set of Moog. I guess poly's would be fine, just a harsh ride. Mine is a daily driver.

[Carves]

........ but now the bushing problem do i use OEM rubber or go with the poly bushings and who's prothane or energy..........

Just IMHO ....

Considering the design of the XJs front suspension and the way the control arms are driven rearward into the tinfoil control arm mounts when you hit a bump ..... I wouldnt use anything but rubber bushes ....

... especially if the thumping and banging is compounded by steeper control arm angles caused by a lift.


Poly ones may look pretty, be a damn sight easier to fit and tighten everything up nicely ...

.... but they promote wear on other components and transmit noise, shock & vibration much more readily ... even if you use the softer compound poly.

I've got em in the swaybar mounts ... and I'd probably use em on the rear, leaf eye/shackle .... but not as bushes at fixed points - or the ... back the front, trailing arm suspension ... used under the front of the XJ.

[wyowagon]

I will just replace all the bushings that aren't provided in the lift kit with rubber. I don't want to waste money I will probably use poly in the front and rear sway bar and maybe the end links rubber in all the control arms for now depending on the lift i get I like the 4.5 LA kit from rough country with rear leafs i just need to save some coin first in the mean time i will use the rig as a DD hopefully after the lift is on it still has a good road manner so i can continue to use it as a DD how do you tighten the track bar mount one bolt had a nut on it the other has some type of round threaded fastener on the bolt weird

[bigjim350]

IMHO if you wanna save money, ditch the rear sway bar. Will flex better without it and you wont notice any change on the street. As far as the track bar mount goes, mine has two bolts on the bottom and two nuts on the side of the "frame". Sounds like one of the nuts on yours has been rounded off.

[4.3LXJ]

The nut on the rod end you just tighten. It is like any other tapered stud. The taper getting stuck in the hole keeps it from turning. The other end has a nut with an arm attached to help you hold it while starting the bolt and then to help you tighten it too. It will act like a wrench. If that hole is too loose, you can substitute a non metric bolt which is a little larger, 3/8" I think, to keep it tighter.