Running hot after replacing water pump and thermostat!

[rm2406]

problem: last week i changed w/p & t'stat just for preventative maintenence. before this i did NOT have one cooling problem.. jeep ran 180-195 tops. now it runs 225-230 constant.(morning or night) the gauge doesnt fluctuate either. ive tried to burp air as much as possible ive changed w/p and t'stat twice incase new parts were defective with same result. w/p is reverse rotation as required. t'stat is 195. just got a new rad cap but havent installed yet. also when it gets to 230-235 (does not overheat) turn heater on but it doesnt do anything to the temp at all. hot air comes out the blower in car and electric fan comes on. not even highway driving cools it off it just runs the same temp. street or freeway. am i missing something here??any help is appreciated!!

[Mudderoy]

problem: last week i changed w/p & t'stat just for preventative maintenence. before this i did NOT have one cooling problem.. jeep ran 180-195 tops. now it runs 225-230 constant.(morning or night) the gauge doesnt fluctuate either. ive tried to burp air as much as possible ive changed w/p and t'stat twice incase new parts were defective with same result. w/p is reverse rotation as required. t'stat is 195. just got a new rad cap but havent installed yet. also when it gets to 230-235 (does not overheat) turn heater on but it doesnt do anything to the temp at all. hot air comes out the blower in car and electric fan comes on. not even highway driving cools it off it just runs the same temp. street or freeway. am i missing something here??any help is appreciated!!

It doesn't make any sense, with the exception of air in the system or a failure has occurred at the same time. Since you have changed the parts twice I would suspect the radiator, but that's just a guess.

[prerunner1982]

My experience with air in the system is that the temp fluctuates when the air bubble passes the temp sensor.

When you first start up the Jeep does the gauge read lower and then move up to 225-230?
If not I would suspect the wire to the sensor may have been knocked off or the sensor may have gone bad.

[rm2406]

gauge is at 0 when first started for the day and slowly warms up to temp as it did before parts change. with thermostat off or on i never feel pressure in top hose but it does get hot to the touch. and lower hose is not as hot but maybe like 20 degrees cooler. if i drive it till temp shows 225-230 and check my upper hose no pressure and i can remove radiator cap without anything shooting out. at that temp there should be some some pressure to relieve right??

[Mudderoy]

gauge is at 0 when first started for the day and slowly warms up to temp as it did before parts change. with thermostat off or on i never feel pressure in top hose but it does get hot to the touch. and lower hose is not as hot but maybe like 20 degrees cooler. if i drive it till temp shows 225-230 and check my upper hose no pressure and i can remove radiator cap without anything shooting out. at that temp there should be some some pressure to relieve right??

Wouldn't that mean the thermostat isn't open?

[rm2406]

normally yes. but when i ran engine without thermostat the upper hose still had no pressure. with no thermostat there should of been some pressure right??

[4.3LXJ]

Put your old stuff back in and see what happens.

[rm2406]

whats agood way to check for coolant circulation in the block and in radiator?? i want to see if theres a blockage some where. when i filled up the system and ran the engine coolant didnt flow down instead it came up out the neck of rad.at operating temp... does that sound right??

[Mudderoy]

whats agood way to check for coolant circulation in the block and in radiator?? i want to see if theres a blockage some where. when i filled up the system and ran the engine coolant didnt flow down instead it came up out the neck of rad.at operating temp... does that sound right??

The only flow I know that can be checked is the radiator. I guess you could check it yourself if you knew what to look for. Personally after putting back the original parts and still having the problem I would remove the radiator, take it to a shop and have it checked.

How old is your fan clutch?

[4.3LXJ]

whats agood way to check for coolant circulation in the block and in radiator?? i want to see if theres a blockage some where. when i filled up the system and ran the engine coolant didnt flow down instead it came up out the neck of rad.at operating temp... does that sound right??

You will get some of this when the tstat opens of the radiator is really full. But if you get too much of this, then the radiator is probably at least partially blocked. You might want to get an opinion from an radiator shop.

[rm2406]

fan clutch is about 6 months old but if that was no good wouldnt the temp be good driving on freeway?? and overheat at stop lights?? the temp is the same on streets&freeway.maybe goes up a hair on freeway... the heater on makes no diff in temp and cab gets hot too. sooo??? could repairing these parts maybe have allowed some gunk to free up and maybe move and clog rad or something?

[Mudderoy]

fan clutch is about 6 months old but if that was no good wouldnt the temp be good driving on freeway?? and overheat at stop lights?? the temp is the same on streets&freeway.maybe goes up a hair on freeway... the heater on makes no diff in temp and cab gets hot too. sooo??? could repairing these parts maybe have allowed some gunk to free up and maybe move and clog rad or something?

Have you tried the original parts yet? Maybe you did and I missed the post. I know I wouldn't want to put them back on so I would probably take the radiator out and have it checked, and flow tested.

[bigjim350]

Not sure if this is the case on yours. But yesterday when checking out my running warm problem on mine I noticed something weird. When the tstat would open the upper hose near the tstat neck would collapse almost completely shut. Therefore it was getting hardly any water flow. Now I have no idea why the upper hose would collapse. But it does on mine

[Mudderoy]

Not sure if this is the case on yours. But yesterday when checking out my running warm problem on mine I noticed something weird. When the tstat would open the upper hose near the tstat neck would collapse almost completely shut. Therefore it was getting hardly any water flow. Now I have no idea why the upper hose would collapse. But it does on mine

:wow: isn't that considered the lower pressure side? New hose?

[4.3LXJ]

Upper hose, that is a new one.

[bigjim350]

Upper hose, that is a new one.

Mine is a magic jeep. It can make things break and malfunction in ways that nobody knew was possible :bang:

[4.3LXJ]

You should get together with my son. He has the touch too. Some truly marvelous things could result.

[rm2406]

upper hose?? thats a first! jeez i wish i could of try putting back in original parts but for some retard reason i trashed them after repair without waiting to see my results!! i never do that!! i usually keep them around for a bit. does freeway depend on fan clutch for cooling?? well streets for sure i know depends on fan clutch..

[4.3LXJ]

Theoretically speaking, no. But yes it does in practice.

[pikapp504]

I know this is a stupid question, but is your belt routed correctly?

[Mudderoy]

I know this is a stupid question, but is your belt routed correctly?

Oh that's an excellent question.

[jeepxj95]

yes it is and easyly can be done

[pikapp504]

Ok, one last "silly" question, but did you put the thermostat in the right way? If you put it in backwards, it'll "never" open. The spring side should be "in" the head...

[rm2406]

**UPDATE** Thanks all.. prob solved! not sure what did it. this is what i did: i flushed heater core out then i flushed out whole cooling system.(all with water) then i closed up everything and did a prestone radiator flush.(the little yellow bottle) ran the engine drained out everything again. then i filled up radiator with coolant then filled up reservoir then filled up block through heater hose(thermostat side). test drove and cooling temp is 180-195 tops!

[Mudderoy]

**UPDATE** Thanks all.. prob solved! not sure what did it. this is what i did: i flushed heater core out then i flushed out whole cooling system.(all with water) then i closed up everything and did a prestone radiator flush.(the little yellow bottle) ran the engine drained out everything again. then i filled up radiator with coolant then filled up reservoir then filled up block through heater hose(thermostat side). test drove and cooling temp is 180-195 tops!

I think you broke something loose when you changed the parts. Thanks for the update.

[jeepxj95]

glad u got it figured out

[BigBear]

problem: last week i changed w/p & t'stat just for preventative maintenence. before this i did NOT have one cooling problem.. jeep ran 180-195 tops. now it runs 225-230 constant.(morning or night) the gauge doesnt fluctuate either. ive tried to burp air as much as possible ive changed w/p and t'stat twice incase new parts were defective with same result. w/p is reverse rotation as required. t'stat is 195. just got a new rad cap but havent installed yet. also when it gets to 230-235 (does not overheat) turn heater on but it doesnt do anything to the temp at all. hot air comes out the blower in car and electric fan comes on. not even highway driving cools it off it just runs the same temp. street or freeway. am i missing something here??any help is appreciated!!

Best way to burp the system is to remove the CTS (coolant temp sensor).
Do not run the Jeep with this off simply burp it and put it back on.