PDM - Passenger Door Module - 1998 Jeep XJ - Electric Door Locks

[Mudderoy]

So my electric door locks will no longer lock, they unlock just fine.

I pulled the DDM - Drivers Door Module a part yesterday and confirmed it was working correctly and contact was being made.

A little reading and I found that the PDM is what actually controls all the door locks and unlocks.

I could NOT find a damn thing about it online! I read it houses the relays that control the locking and unlocking. I even tried ebay to see if someone was selling one so I could look at a picture. Nothing.

I'll probably crack open the passenger door this evening, but I get the feeling I'll be looking at a box without anything I can remove and replace, namely a relay.

Anyone have any information, or know where I can find it?

[Mudderoy]

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-gra7HmkPhAc/TgqnKYXMaSI/AAAAAAAAA9s/dzMO7W-UEaU/s720/2011-06-28%25252019.07.53.jpg

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-Txht0BfhvEg/Tgqiqe9QQ0I/AAAAAAAAA9o/tDr3DTNLTeE/s720/2011-06-28%25252019.08.03.jpg

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-EbIgJNAXEbE/TgpmOt-tMEI/AAAAAAAAA9E/2sB_ItW9M7g/s720/2011-06-28%25252018.32.10.jpg

Two relays part # JJM1-12V-H11

:link: (http://www.mistersprockets.com/jjm112vh11-p-12390.html) $7.50 each

[xj4life2]

Looks like you already found it but here's what I have :
Passenger Door Module
The Passenger Door Module (PDM) contains the passenger side front door power lock switch and the power lock system control circuitry. In its role as a power lock switch, it provides the power lock system control circuitry with a ground path through the PDM ground circuit and the driver side power lock switch contacts to indicate a lock request or unlock request.
In its role as the power lock control module, the PDM receives inputs from the battery the ignition switch, the DDM, the driver door ajar switch, the key-in ignition switch, and the headlamp switch. It also receives a hard-wired input from the RKE receiver, if the vehicle is so equipped. In response to these inputs, the PDM sends the proper outputs to control the power lock motors through its integral power lock and unlock relays. The PDM power lock system functions can be tested as outlined below. If the power lock system operates, but the RKE system lock and/or unlock functions are inoperative, see the diagnosis for the Body and Frame/Locks/Keyless Entry/Remote Keyless Entry Transmitter.


Check the fuse in the junction block. If OK, go to Step 2. If not OK, repair the shorted circuit or component as required and replace the faulty fuse.
Disconnect and isolate the battery negative cable. Remove the passenger side front door trim panel and unplug the 8-way PDM wire harness connector (C-1) from the PDM. Check for continuity between the ground circuit cavity of the 8-way PDM wire harness connector and a good ground. There should be continuity. If OK, go to Step 3. If not OK, repair the open circuit to ground as required.
If the problem being diagnosed is inoperative power lock switch illumination, proceed as follows. If the problem is not power lock switch illumination, go to Step 5. Connect the battery negative cable. Turn the ignition switch to the Accessory or On positions. Check for battery voltage at both sides of the power window circuit breaker in the junction block. If OK, go to Step 4. If not OK, replace the faulty circuit breaker.
With the ignition switch still in the Accessory or On positions, check for battery voltage at the fused ignition switch output circuit cavity of the 8-way PDM wire harness connector. If OK, replace the faulty PDM. If not OK, repair the open circuit to the junction block as required.
If the problem being diagnosed is an inoperative door lock inhibit feature or a power lock system that responds to an Unlock command, but not a Lock command, proceed as follows. Otherwise, go to Step 7. With the driver side front door closed, check for continuity between the door ajar/key-in circuit cavity of the 8-way PDM wire harness connector and a good ground. There should be no continuity. If OK, go to Step 6. If not OK, repair the shorted door ajar and/or key-in ignition circuits as required. Refer to Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators/Audible Warning Device/Chime/Buzzer Warning Systems for more information.
Open the driver side front door with the key in the ignition switch or with the headlamp switch in the On position. Check for continuity between the door ajar/key-in circuit cavity of the 8-way PDM wire harness connector and a good ground. There should be continuity If OK, go to Step 8. If not OK, repair the open door ajar and/or key-in ignition circuits as required. Refer to Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators/Audible Warning Device/Chime/Buzzer Warning Systems for more information.
Connect the battery negative cable. Check for battery voltage at the fused B(+) circuit cavity of the 8-way PDM wire harness connector. If OK, go to Step 8. If not OK, repair the open circuit to the fuse in the junction block as required
Test the PDM power lock switch continuity through the two PDM wire harness connector receptacles. See the PDM Power Lock Switch Continuity chart to determine if the continuity is correct in the Lock and Unlock switch positions. If PDM Power Lock Switch Continuity

OK, see the diagnosis for Body and Frame/Locks/Power Locks/Power Lock Motors. If not OK, replace the faulty PDM.

[Mudderoy]

With the PDM disassymbled I connected it back up to the wiring harness. I toggled the lock switch and tried to feel which relay was working and which wasn't. There is no easy way to the circuit board as the relays are soldered in. I don't have any replacement relays so it really didn't make any sense to take it apart further. I did however smack the relay on the left a few times with the head of my screwdriver...

Now the locks work both locking and unlocking! :D

The link in the prior post has a min order of $25. I ordered 4 since I have two Jeeps.

As you may have already thought about it really isn't necessary to replace the relays with the same ones, nor is it really necessary to have them soldered on the board. I can just run external relays and hook them up to the same place on the circuit board. But for now I'll have a supply that I can replace as they go bad.

[Mudderoy]

I found the whole replacement unit at rockauto, :link: (http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=934939)

http://info.rockauto.com/getimage/getimage.php?imageurl=http%3A%2F%2Finfo.rockauto.c om%2FAirtex%2F1S2196.jpg&imagekey=934939-0&width=450

$67.79

Factory Mopar Parts (http://www.factorymoparparts.com/56009451ac.html) $70.13

OEM Part is 56009451AC

[Mudderoy]

http://youtu.be/TV-iLsTCYe8

[Mudderoy]

Well I didn't make it a full day and the locks stopped working again. Same ol'e shit, unlocks, but won't lock.

Relays on order.

[Mudderoy]

** Sometimes I think this goes without saying but... You shouldn't attempt this unless you feel comfortable in what you are trying to do. You could very well cause this part to fail and have to replace it fully. You also could start a fire if you don't do this correctly. A fuse would probably catch it but who knows you might have foil wrapped around all of those! rofl.

The 4 relays I ordered came in today. (2 Jeeps, 4 relays. Besides it's a min $25 order)

I took the inside passenger door to expose the PDM. I removed it, popped the switch covers off and took out the circuit board.

The relays are the black square-ish boxes in the middle side by side.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-7wCjoUmwa30/ThPAVz4w3UI/AAAAAAAAA_s/YlPvP5J5o-o/s800/2011-07-05%25252019.09.34.jpg

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-RgjHaOh5-MU/ThPASNFnyBI/AAAAAAAAA_o/LHG4NQkDMKQ/s800/2011-07-05%25252019.09.45.jpg

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-sZvsZVw8jNk/ThPAOoz3uGI/AAAAAAAAA_g/ns6NAUxacfo/s800/2011-07-05%25252019.09.56.jpg

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-qAnqz_DsZ_I/ThPAKdvY9VI/AAAAAAAAA_c/BN_YUy9oT3E/s800/2011-07-05%25252019.10.40.jpg

Estimating where the back of the relays are I carefully cut a rectangle in the plastic.

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-bvfwJiE88wI/ThPAIfkUm9I/AAAAAAAAA_U/gRJoQR0mahY/s800/2011-07-05%25252019.13.34.jpg

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-pv2sRQTF3FY/ThPAC-RqHGI/AAAAAAAAA_Q/50Gj01UyHjI/s800/2011-07-05%25252019.13.44.jpg

Using a screwdriver I carefully pry up the plastic I just cut.

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-pYbi78-l_Ak/ThPABGDAfxI/AAAAAAAAA_M/jVaecHtuuZU/s800/2011-07-05%25252019.16.17.jpg

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-UHGD4ur7xLA/ThO_8iuurJI/AAAAAAAAA_I/lyT-vOF4AcA/s800/2011-07-05%25252019.16.25.jpg

Then I remove the cut section all together!

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-F4Mik7FkWGM/ThO_6wWG6-I/AAAAAAAAA_E/m7ZYmixU9eQ/s800/2011-07-05%25252019.17.14.jpg

Heating up the legs of the two relays and using compressed air to blow away the molten solder I can use a small screwdriver to unbend the legs of the relays then gently remove them from the circuit board.

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-zxHvzlsnYGI/ThO_4f6XdpI/AAAAAAAAA_A/nWD3UKKcbS4/s800/2011-07-05%25252019.37.41.jpg

I put the new relays into position.

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-ju1q0lLgie0/ThO_zWdF11I/AAAAAAAAA-8/F8hFmPATxJw/s800/2011-07-05%25252019.40.24.jpg

Then I solder them into place.

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-rBBKBaWvCYQ/ThO_sSpBqaI/AAAAAAAAA-4/JJlha5eaOHo/s800/2011-07-05%25252019.44.09.jpg

Testing!!!!

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-iiMizmln4lU/ThO_qWCrXQI/AAAAAAAAA-0/jFUWcakwd0Q/s800/2011-07-05%25252020.30.31.jpg

SUCCESS!!!!

Taking the PDM back to the bench I put the plastic door I cut out and then use duct tape to secure it back into place. It is plastic and non-conductive so I really wasn't worried about critical placement. I can't think of any good reason that this needs to be covered back up but this looks a little more professional. ;)

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-J7Wqb_qvyEg/ThO_lVYzz-I/AAAAAAAAA-s/prSNGStKhGY/s800/2011-07-05%25252020.34.59.jpg

Now I just took this and put it back in the inside door panel, hooked up the wiring and the manual lock/unlock rods.

Popped the door panel back into place, and put in the 4 screws that secures it to the metal door.

That's it! I have both electric lock and unlock again.

:thumbsup:

[Mudderoy]

No further issues with the door locks. I still need to see if I can repair failing locks, but as far as getting the signal to the locks, all is well with this repair.

[jccatt]

Great write up Tony. The podcast was good too. I'm keen to see how you go with the child lock issue. I have a similar problem with the passenger windows not working.

[Mudderoy]

Great write up Tony. The podcast was good too. I'm keen to see how you go with the child lock issue. I have a similar problem with the passenger windows not working.

Yep, I have a few things to fix on the 1999 XJ and that's one of them. :D

:thanx:

[Mudderoy]

As I may have mentioned here the power door lock acted up a few times and a few days ago it went dead again.

I don't think the relay I put in there has gone bad, but before I replace it again I'd like to do some testing of the circuit.

Does any just HAPPEN to have a schematic of the PDM circuit? It would save me a lot of trial and error. Thanks!

[Mudderoy]

Well I've gone as far as I can debugging the PDM in the drive way. Today I took the inside door off the 99 and hooked it up to the PDM wiring on the 98. Locks function correctly. So I'm going to buy a replacement PDM ($65 from RockAuto) and then I'll bring the broken one inside, maybe get an electronic schematic of the PDM and fix it.

I suspect that a transistor that is probably being used as a signal driver to the relay is bad. Pretty cheap fix if that is it. Hopefully I'll find the answer, post it here and have a spare for the 98/99!

:pray:

[Mudderoy]

I ordered the replacement PDM from RockAuto Wednesday, and it came in today!

Installed and working. Oh and it is identical (except it works) to the broken one, even has the Chrysler logo on it

[praetorian]

My locks on my 98 are having issues. I can hear some of the solenoids making noise but they don't lock or unlock. Did u ever get around to trouble shooting your old pdm? Any idea on what year the pdm started being used and what years are compatable?

[Mudderoy]

My locks on my 98 are having issues. I can hear some of the solenoids making noise but they don't lock or unlock. Did u ever get around to trouble shooting your old pdm? Any idea on what year the pdm started being used and what years are compatable?

No I didn't. There was so many things to do and being naturally lazy I just bought replacements. I had to buy one for the 98 and one for the 99. I just installed the one on the 99 last weekend. It was a problem with the child lock/unlock for the passenger windows. I could have just bypassed it but I thought I'd fix it back to stock.

[Joliet Johnny]

Did you ever find a schematic for it? Mine locks but blows fuse for unlock. I installed a self resetting fuse for when I forget.

[NW99XJ]

I may have not had the patience to do this, I think I would've just made my own relay pack and called it good. Four SPDT relay's and a handful of connectors, (and what i'm sure would've been a night of cussing)... i would have prob fixed it..... but I like this solution a lot better. As for the child lock out.... I just did the bypass to get all the windows working properly from their respective switches. I dont have little ones, and I doubt their will be another owner of this vehicle anytime soon.... I may get a wild hair and rebuild the lockout switch one of these days, but for now I'm happy with the bypass.

[prerunner1982]

Already repaired the lockout switch for the power window issue but the power locks are not working. I can hear them trying and they have worked sometimes randomly. Looks like I will be taking apart the PDC soon.

The lockout switch issue, at least on mine, was the soldered contacts on the board were broken. I just threw some new solder on the two contacts and was good as new.

[4.3LXJ]

If they work randomly, check your lubrication in the mechanism. It gets stiff over time

[Pinkyman]

The lockout switch issue, at least on mine, was the soldered contacts on the board were broken. I just threw some new solder on the two contacts and was good as new.

This is exactly what i did on mine. It fixed a bunch of random issues, and now everything works, even my keyless entry :D

*I had to re-solder both sides (driver and passenger) to make them work. Only after that did all my issues go away.

[prerunner1982]

Ryan, what did you solder on the passenger side and what problem did that fix? lol

[Pinkyman]

Ryan, what did you solder on the passenger side and what problem did that fix? lol

I soldered the same as the drivers side. All of the solder points. My power locks werent working from either side, except occasionally if i wiggled the switch a bunch on the passenger side. After that, everything worked as it was supposed to.


http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e124/Rocketryan1/20160614_210751_zps2tedw0yi.jpg (http://s38.photobucket.com/user/Rocketryan1/media/20160614_210751_zps2tedw0yi.jpg.html)