Off Road lights

[WyoXJ]

I have been lurking on the sidelines for awhile now. I need some help and have used the search on here. But may not have entered what I should have to get the answer. I am looking for a wiring schematic for hooking up my off road lights. Also parts that I will need to build it. Thanks from Wyoming

Also love the podcast!! I have downloaded them all. listen to them while I am feeding the rock crusher.

[Mudderoy]

I have been lurking on the sidelines for awhile now. I need some help and have used the search on here. But may not have entered what I should have to get the answer. I am looking for a wiring schematic for hooking up my off road lights. Also parts that I will need to build it. Thanks from Wyoming

Also love the podcast!! I have downloaded them all. listen to them while I am feeding the rock crusher.

Well I got lucky, or I guess I just paid for it. When I got my sets of KC offroad lights it came with wiring harness. I've been wanting to upgrade my headlights, so I'm going to need a similar wiring diagram. Good question, I bet we'll see an answer shortly.

[hookedonxjs]

I have been lurking on the sidelines for awhile now. I need some help and have used the search on here. But may not have entered what I should have to get the answer. I am looking for a wiring schematic for hooking up my off road lights. Also parts that I will need to build it. Thanks from Wyoming

Also love the podcast!! I have downloaded them all. listen to them while I am feeding the rock crusher.

Check out painless wiring. They have complete set ups. But you need a celinoid,toggle switch,12 gauge wire and conection for battery. High watt lights could use 10 gauge wire.

[oderdene]

http://www.offroaders.com/images/projects/lightforce/wiring-diag.gif
http://www.titantalk.com/forums/attachments/titan-parts-accessories/56602d1203368466-how-wire-3-100w-off-road-lights-same-switch-foglite.jpg

[WyoXJ]

Thank you for the help and quick response. Now I can get my A pillar lights going!! Thanks again!

[Mudderoy]

Thank you for the help and quick response. Now I can get my A pillar lights going!! Thanks again!

Remember to size your relay properly with the current requirements of both lights.

[4.3LXJ]

And the wiring. How many watts are your lights?

[BlueXJ]

Most important would be the pics you take and a writeup afterwards.

[MaxxTraxx]

Say you run a pair of 100w lights, i.e KC's, Hella's, etc...what size relay would you need to run and how do you determine the correct size?

[Mudderoy]

Say you run a pair of 100w lights, i.e KC's, Hella's, etc...what size relay would you need to run and how do you determine the correct size?

I = P / V

I = 100 watts / 12 volts
8.3333333 amps. per light!

[4.3LXJ]

I = P / V

I = 100 watts / 12 volts
8.3333333 amps. per light!

So, at almost 17 amps for two, you need a 20 amp relay

[jccatt]

Make sure you use the correct size wire too, or it will get hot. If you want a factory wiring diagram go to greatlakesxj.com

[BlueXJ]

I think 12ga is what is required but I may be mistaken, any corrections will be welcomed.

[jccatt]

A good store wiil be able to give you the right wire, just ask for 10 amp wire. Get red for + and black for -. So you dont mix em up. Also get a ratchet crimper for the crimp conneters that plug into the relay. Dont get alcheapo crimpers that come in those packs with the connectors, the wire will pull out

[oderdene]

this is very useful table, original here (http://www.offroaders.com/tech/12-volt-wire-gauge-amps.htm)
http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-WLddOvOJWCM/TaOY1HbfdCI/AAAAAAAABls/T1SOrGunIq8/s1600/amp%2Bgauge.png

[WyoXJ]

Thanks for the all great info!! The weekend is way to short. I am hope to get sometime this week to get back on this project. Thanks again

[jccatt]

this is very useful table, original here (http://www.offroaders.com/tech/12-volt-wire-gauge-amps.htm)
http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-WLddOvOJWCM/TaOY1HbfdCI/AAAAAAAABls/T1SOrGunIq8/s1600/amp%2Bgauge.png

Great table. Do you have the same in metric?

[4.3LXJ]

Where did you get this table from? It seems a little on the light side. For instance, if I was running a 20 amp circuit I would use nothing less than #14 wire, preferably #12

[oderdene]

Where did you get this table from? It seems a little on the light side. For instance, if I was running a 20 amp circuit I would use nothing less than #14 wire, preferably #12

from here http://www.offroaders.com/tech/12-volt-wire-gauge-amps.htm

yes, it seems lighter, there was following sentence:
measure the distance that the wire will travel (length) including the length of the return to ground (the ground wire running to the chassis or back to a ground block or battery.

[oderdene]

it seems much better table,

http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-hN7bKoSN9z8/TaPIIdn0FKI/AAAAAAAABl0/w-ZvSel0u3s/s1600/amp%2Bgauge1.png

[jccatt]

Cool, i can use that one. Cheers

[4.3LXJ]

Much better table. My personal preference is to wire like I would wire a house. I use the max current as 75% of the full rated load for that wire size. That goes for switches and relays too.

[WyoXJ]

Well I got the lights mounted. They looked smaller mounted on my '73 Chevy 3/4 ton truck. Guess I will just have to make the jeep bigger :) I had to get some different bolts the ones that Detours sent were about a 1/2 inch to long. Might be because its an '88 not sure. I will get some pics up soon. Now I just need to get them wired up. Thanks again for all your help.

[LizardRunner]

Much better table. My personal preference is to wire like I would wire a house. I use the max current as 75% of the full rated load for that wire size. That goes for switches and relays too.

X2, the second chart is much better. I like to calculate the current and gauge then usually go up one or two gauges just for safety. Better to have overkill in my experience.

[modestmar00xj]

awesome! thanks guys very helpful!

[WyoXJ]

Well I got my a-pillar lights hooked up today. Even found a stock fog light switch to use. Thanks for the diagram Oderdene. Thanks to everyone else for your input also. I will take some pictures and get them posted up!

[jccatt]

How do the pillar lights go for reflection on the bonnet and windscreen

[hookedonxjs]

I ordered a pair james and you gotta run spots or paint your hood flat black.

[XJ Rat]

I ordered a pair james and you gotta run spots or paint your hood flat black.

For the dust reflection...especially in the desert, try these.

http://www.shopwiki.com/KC-Hilites-Glare-Shields

We used to run these many years ago. I was not even aware KC still made them. They help.

[jccatt]

I ordered a pair james and you gotta run spots or paint your hood flat black.

Thought they might Brian. Thats why Im putting the spots on the roof bar

[WyoXJ]

My paint on the hood is already faded so no trouble there, But the antanna is shiny so I need to paint it. But other than that I like them alot.

[toebee97]

Sorry to resurrect an old thread, but this is the closest one to my issue I can find. I'm trying to wire my KCs to my factory fog light switch without using the factory harness that goes to it, I want to run all new wiring to avoid going through the headlight relay so they can be totally independent of the light system. I found a couple diagrams that were only a little useful using Google.

I grounded each light to the bumper and ran hot wires back to the factory switch, ran a new hot wire from the battery (I have a pet peeve about spiking the fuseblock) to the switch with a 20 amp fusible link, and ran a ground wire from the dash frame to the switch. All the wires have spade connectors on the switch end to connect to the factory connections where the harness previously connected. I have the old style fog light switch with three contacts on the back. The problem is the lights still don't work. This is driving me nuts.

[4.3LXJ]

You might check that switch to see if it works. Also you should on that switch have one ground wire for a light in it and power in and out. Center pin should be power in

[toebee97]

You might check that switch to see if it works. Also you should on that switch have one ground wire for a light in it and power in and out. Center pin should be power in
The light gets power but I suppose it could still be a bad switch. Wonder if the transmission switch is the same kind of switch... I have a spare laying around

[4.3LXJ]

Before you go any further, how many watts are you running on those lights?

[bigjim350]

Your best bet is to run your own relay and separate switch.

[Mudderoy]

Sorry to resurrect an old thread, but this is the closest one to my issue I can find. I'm trying to wire my KCs to my factory fog light switch without using the factory harness that goes to it, I want to run all new wiring to avoid going through the headlight relay so they can be totally independent of the light system. I found a couple diagrams that were only a little useful using Google.

I grounded each light to the bumper and ran hot wires back to the factory switch, ran a new hot wire from the battery (I have a pet peeve about spiking the fuseblock) to the switch with a 20 amp fusible link, and ran a ground wire from the dash frame to the switch. All the wires have spade connectors on the switch end to connect to the factory connections where the harness previously connected. I have the old style fog light switch with three contacts on the back. The problem is the lights still don't work. This is driving me nuts.

I really like the idea of the relay. The relay keeps all the high current stuff under the hood and you can run a simple signal line into the cab. I was rewiring my KC lights today and just for grins I read the current on the signal line to the relay (under the hood) .14 amps. I'm using 8 wire network cable (CAT 6) so I can run a lot of switches.

2101

:link: (http://www.rattlebars.com/avalanche/relay_basics.html)

2102

[bluedragon436]

Going to have to remember these pics of the relay and wiring when it comes time to hit wire up some aftermarket lights on mine... and will use the relay pic when I replace the two crap relays that came with my headlight upgrade harness...

[Mudderoy]

Going to have to remember these pics of the relay and wiring when it comes time to hit wire up some aftermarket lights on mine... and will use the relay pic when I replace the two crap relays that came with my headlight upgrade harness...

Automotive relays, like the one shown in the diagrams are pretty cheap, about $8 each. I would spend the extra couple of bucks and get the plug for them. Relays do go bad and it's nice not having to think about how it's wired when you replace it.

2106

[toebee97]

Before you go any further, how many watts are you running on those lights?
They're the original deep 6 inch KCs so I assume 100 watts each... after researching more and talking to a few people I know that have lights installed I decided to redo it with a relay and heavier wiring so the draw from the lights doesn't fry the wiring. I used 16 gauge wire before and was told that won't cut it for the amps these will run, yet if I'm reading this table correctly then I shouldn't need heavier wire, is this accurate?

http://www.sunforceproducts.com/Support%20Section/Solar%20Panel%20&%20Charge%20Controllers/WireGaugeSelectionTable.pdf

I'm still gonna try and use the factory switch since I really like the factory look inside the cab but if it doesn't work then I'll just get a toggle switch.


I'm using 8 wire network cable (CAT 6) so I can run a lot of switches.
That's a cool idea, if I end up with more switches in the future I'm gonna try that!

[Brasscatz]

It's pretty close. I'd use this one and it's a bit easier to read with the colors on it http://www.xjtalk.com/showthread.php?p=147412#post147412

[toebee97]

It's pretty close. I'd use this one and it's a bit easier to read with the colors on it http://www.xjtalk.com/showthread.php?p=147412#post147412
Ok, then I'm good with 16 gauge... Thanks!

[bluedragon436]

Automotive relays, like the one shown in the diagrams are pretty cheap, about $8 each. I would spend the extra couple of bucks and get the plug for them. Relays do go bad and it's nice not having to think about how it's wired when you replace it.

2106

I was looking at picking a plug/harness to wire into the existing harness anyways... I actually just noticed that AZ has a painless wiring harness upgrade for the H4 setup.... wish I had noticed it, would have picked it up to begin with... far better relays than the kit I got... Oh well... it works for now at least... just an upgrade I'd like to make in the near future to make it easier to get better relays when they do go out..

[Mudderoy]

They're the original deep 6 inch KCs so I assume 100 watts each... after researching more and talking to a few people I know that have lights installed I decided to redo it with a relay and heavier wiring so the draw from the lights doesn't fry the wiring. I used 16 gauge wire before and was told that won't cut it for the amps these will run, yet if I'm reading this table correctly then I shouldn't need heavier wire, is this accurate?

http://www.sunforceproducts.com/Support%20Section/Solar%20Panel%20&%20Charge%20Controllers/WireGaugeSelectionTable.pdf

I'm still gonna try and use the factory switch since I really like the factory look inside the cab but if it doesn't work then I'll just get a toggle switch.


That's a cool idea, if I end up with more switches in the future I'm gonna try that!

2112

[toebee97]

All the charts I keep seeing call for 16 gauge for 20 amp under 10 feet. All my wiring was under 10 feet so I lucked out, having bought 16 gauge wire before researching. Went down to the parts store and got everything I didn't already have including a new relay. Ended up following a diagram I found here (http://www.virtualjeepclub.com/showthread.php?38166-How-to-wire-or-hook-up-fog-lights&p=387432#post387432). When I realized I needed a 3a fuse I went down to Walmart to get one and found a double pole single throw switch that was a dead ringer sizewise for the factory one, so I ended up not using the factory switch to err on the side of caution. Anyway, got it all wired up and working, thanks for the help guys!