New to the forum and Needing help!!!

[Vennessa]

Recently my 1997 Jeep Grand Cherokee started running rough. The check engine light came on. We had the codes checked and it was an 02 sensor at fault. I had expected this due to a cracked exhaust manifold that would confuse the 02 sensors into mixing the fuel on the rich side to compensate. My fiancee tried JB Weld on the crack but it was too large so I ordered a new exhaust manifold. We put the new manifold on yesterday and after reassembling the engine, she (the car) won't start.( We had to remove the intake manifold, part of the serpintine belt, power steering pump, air box, and many assorted sensors were disconnected. These were all put back in place and reassembled before we started it. Replaced the air filter also) We checked for spark and all 6 cylinders are getting it. We are getting fuel to the fuel rail also. Really stumped as to why it wont start. (also the check engine light turned off) It will crank but not turn over.
I have replaced the crankshaft sensor too, no workie. I'm going to buy a multi meter and check the other sensors too. The odd thing is I have discovered the previous owner put a 99/00 intake manifold on the car. It ran fine and started fine before I replaced the exhaust manifold. Help!:sad0147:

[Mudderoy]

Recently my 1997 Jeep Grand Cherokee started running rough. The check engine light came on. We had the codes checked and it was an 02 sensor at fault. I had expected this due to a cracked exhaust manifold that would confuse the 02 sensors into mixing the fuel on the rich side to compensate. My fiancee tried JB Weld on the crack but it was too large so I ordered a new exhaust manifold. We put the new manifold on yesterday and after reassembling the engine, she (the car) won't start.( We had to remove the intake manifold, part of the serpintine belt, power steering pump, air box, and many assorted sensors were disconnected. These were all put back in place and reassembled before we started it. Replaced the air filter also) We checked for spark and all 6 cylinders are getting it. We are getting fuel to the fuel rail also. Really stumped as to why it wont start. (also the check engine light turned off) It will crank but not turn over.
I have replaced the crankshaft sensor too, no workie. I'm going to buy a multi meter and check the other sensors too. The odd thing is I have discovered the previous owner put a 99/00 intake manifold on the car. It ran fine and started fine before I replaced the exhaust manifold. Help!:sad0147:

When did you replace the CPS, before or after the starting problems?

When you removed the old exhaust manifold, did you remove the intake? I just moved mine up slightly so I could get the exhaust manifold out. Basically I didn't disconnect any of the sensors, fuel line...

[Vennessa]

i replaced the CPS after the manifold replacement. we took everything off. (intake manifold, power steering pump, and air box were removed) I replaced that sensor on advice that it was a common problem when replacing the exhaust manifold. It was probably still good but, I didnt check. (I have two if it was good so no loss there)

[Mudderoy]

i replaced the CPS after the manifold replacement. we took everything off. (intake manifold, power steering pump, and air box were removed) I replaced that sensor on advice that it was a common problem when replacing the exhaust manifold. It was probably still good but, I didnt check. (I have two if it was good so no loss there)

Yes, it's good that you changed it, but I would recommend putting the old one back. The new one could be bad, etc... The fewer the changes the better. Get a little more feedback before you run out there and do that.

Another common problem is that the connection to the harness and CPS can be bad. People have solved a CPS problem by replacing it when it really was just a bad connection to the plug.

On my 1998 I think I have 2 or 3 sensor connections. Those connections need to be checked. It really sounds like the computer doesn't like the information it is getting.

[4.3LXJ]

Vannessa

One thing that would help us a lot is if you could take a complete set of pics of the whole intake area. That way we could see if there is anything out of place. However being a conversion, it will be more difficult. Check all your connections, make sure they are together tightly and that you did not get a plug in the wrong one, even if it was a close fit.

[LizardRunner]

Ok here's some info on why the po would have put that intake on your 97 in the first place.

In 1999, Jeep had to redesign many parts of the venerable four liter to meet increasingly stringent emission controls. Some of these redesigned parts of the engine were, but not limited to, smaller exhaust ports to heat the inline catalytic converters quicker (The original exhaust outlets were nothing to write home about and now are smaller), two inline catalytic converters in the exhaust manifolds (This in addition to the original, but more efficient catalytic converter in the exhaust system), revised camshaft timing to reduce overlap and duration, and revised computer timing maps. None of this is conducive to increased performance.
Jeep’s answer was to redesign the intake manifold, EXTENSIVELY, to make up for the power losses due to tightening emission regulations. This swap is increasingly becoming popular, but no one has actually tested the merits or demerits beyond, what I will refer to as the “Butt Dyno”. This is the purpose of this review and evaluation. To install the later manifold and actually find out what it will do on a dyno and what messes you get into with this conversion. Reports on the internet state that if you fit one of these manifolds to a earlier Jeep, without the different emission reduction devices, you get a 15 hp boost!

Since your cranking but not starting, it could be that you will need to reset your computer (reboot) to do this you have to follow the proper proceedure. once that's complete you should be able to start the beast. so on to the proper reboot sequence.

Remove positive cable - short this cable to the engine for 30 seconds (do not short the battery, that would be very very bad)
Re install positive cable
turn the key to run but do not start the engine!!
now turn on the headlights and then turn them off
then turn the key off

now you are ready to start the vehicle, the computer will re-learn your jeeps settings and it should run fine after that if this was the problem.

[Mudderoy]

Ok here's some info on why the po would have put that intake on your 97 in the first place.

In 1999, Jeep had to redesign many parts of the venerable four liter to meet increasingly stringent emission controls. Some of these redesigned parts of the engine were, but not limited to, smaller exhaust ports to heat the inline catalytic converters quicker (The original exhaust outlets were nothing to write home about and now are smaller), two inline catalytic converters in the exhaust manifolds (This in addition to the original, but more efficient catalytic converter in the exhaust system), revised camshaft timing to reduce overlap and duration, and revised computer timing maps. None of this is conducive to increased performance.
Jeep’s answer was to redesign the intake manifold, EXTENSIVELY, to make up for the power losses due to tightening emission regulations. This swap is increasingly becoming popular, but no one has actually tested the merits or demerits beyond, what I will refer to as the “Butt Dyno”. This is the purpose of this review and evaluation. To install the later manifold and actually find out what it will do on a dyno and what messes you get into with this conversion. Reports on the internet state that if you fit one of these manifolds to a earlier Jeep, without the different emission reduction devices, you get a 15 hp boost!

Since your cranking but not starting, it could be that you will need to reset your computer (reboot) to do this you have to follow the proper proceedure. once that's complete you should be able to start the beast. so on to the proper reboot sequence.

Remove positive cable Remove negative cable
Re install negative cable
Re install positive cable
turn the key to run but do not start the engine!!
now turn on the headlights and then turn them off
then turn the key off

now you are ready to start the vehicle, the computer will relearn your jeeps settings and it should run fine after that if this was the problem.

I have read that you take off the positive lead and short that LEAD (not the battery) to a ground on the chassis for 30 seconds.

[LizardRunner]

you are correct sir, my bad. you never want to short a battery.

[Vennessa]

i will try this. just got my battery charged up anyway brb. also i'll get some pictures while i'm out there....

[Vennessa]

well no dice. the computer reboot didnt work. would video be more usefull than photos? i can do both...

[rguignard]

well no dice. the computer reboot didnt work. would video be more usefull than photos? i can do both...

sure both would do :thumbsup:

[4.3LXJ]

Lets see some stills of the whole manifold area first. Let's see if we can spot anything out of place first.

[Vennessa]

so here are the photos and I'll leave the link for 2 youtube videos I took:
http://i1080.photobucket.com/albums/j327/Vennessa_Hartsfield/IMAG0138.jpg
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http://i1080.photobucket.com/albums/j327/Vennessa_Hartsfield/IMAG0134.jpg
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http://i1080.photobucket.com/albums/j327/Vennessa_Hartsfield/IMAG0135.jpg
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http://i1080.photobucket.com/albums/j327/Vennessa_Hartsfield/IMAG0136.jpg
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http://i1080.photobucket.com/albums/j327/Vennessa_Hartsfield/IMAG0137.jpg


Here's the YouTube info, I filmed the engine bay and the sound it makes when I start it.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NA4EOXWfcLw
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GKTC38IuPrM

[4.3LXJ]

Vanessa, you said you had fuel. Does it have pressure? I think that is your schrader valve on that fuel rail. When you turn the key on, the fuel pump should start up and if you depress that little post inside it, it should spray. Watch the eyes though.

[4x4Dalton]

What yr manifold did you put back on it? Possible the previous owner may have swapped engines and not said.

[Vennessa]

The exhaust manifold I put on there is aftermarket, but i purchased it for a 97. The intake manifold is supposedly a 99/00 (that seems right). I've already tested the valve on the fuel rail, we got pressure. The previous owner said the only things he replaced was a rebuild on the tranny and o2 sensors.

[Vennessa]

its got fuel at the rail...make go switch out relays to see if thats it..

[Vennessa]

switched the asd and horn relay still no go. so not the relay.

[rguignard]

ok does it have spark ? if you have spark and fuel its going to run. i see a plug that is not hooked up was it before ?

[Vennessa]

plug as in spark plug? Where did you see this plug in relation to the engine

[rguignard]

its under the air tube. do you have spark at the spark plugs ?

[Vennessa]

yeah we got spark. that mystery plug has never been plugged in to my knowledge going to test the sensors now, will post results...

[rguignard]

ok its going to be something easy just something were all missing
were in houston are you ? you can pm that if you want i have a friend thats in houston all week he might be able to come by and have a look

[xj4life2]

I still agree with Steve put the old CPS back in and try it. All the symptoms you are discribing point to the cps. Engine turns over , have spark and fuel but no start... the only thing left I can see is lack of crank signal to the ecm. Just for fun try unpluging the CPS and then plug it back in sometimes this actually works.

[Vennessa]

tried replugging the CPS. no dice. Hopefully calling in a more experienced eye on Friday. Will keep posting until we figure it out. My car is like a bad episode of "House" hopefully she doesn't have to die before we figure it out!:boohoo:

[Mudderoy]

tried replugging the CPS. no dice. Hopefully calling in a more experienced eye on Friday. Will keep posting until we figure it out. My car is like a bad episode of "House" hopefully she doesn't have to die before we figure it out!:boohoo:

Make sure you guys didn't knock off, or break any grounds between the engine and the firewall.

[Outlaw]

Double check your vacuum lines as well. I'm not sure if you have the same Throttle Body but there is a vacuum line on the valve cover side on the bottom (pic below) I have forgot this a couple times.

http://i1131.photobucket.com/albums/m545/OutlawXJ/TBVACUUM.jpg

[LizardRunner]

I found this link, it has everything about your intake swap, it also has pictures, a very good write up with complete instructions. Go through it, just might find the problem your having with the fix. That empty plug should be connected I believe, this write up will help you lots with figuring this no start out I think.

http://www.mallcrawlin.com/forum/showthread.php?t=6355

[Vennessa]

well we may be at the breaking point. I had some one come out today and scan her. the throttle position sensor was not working properly, so i replaced it. we replaced the spark plus and cleaned the rotor. she STILL won't start. gonna try again tomorrow but if i can't get her running I don't know what we're gonna do...so super frustrating.:sad0147:

[Mudderoy]

well we may be at the breaking point. I had some one come out today and scan her. the throttle position sensor was not working properly, so i replaced it. we replaced the spark plus and cleaned the rotor. she STILL won't start. gonna try again tomorrow but if i can't get her running I don't know what we're gonna do...so super frustrating.:sad0147:

Well that's sucks! This sounds a lot like what happened to another member. In a way it is very frustrating but in another your glad it wasn't something simple you were over looking. Please don't forget about us if you get it going. We'd really like to know that 1) It's working and 2) WHAT THE HELL WAS THE FIX!!!! :smiley-laughing021:

Oh one other thing, check the wiring harness really really carefully. Eventually that was the only possible solution for that other member. As far as I know he still hasn't got that Jeep running. Oh, you might try moving the wiring harness while trying to start. Very dangerous of course because of leaning into the engine bay to do so only with precautions. Heavy gloves and removal of the serpentine belt for example.

[4.3LXJ]

When you checked for spark, how did you do it?

[Vennessa]

we used one of the plug lights you put on the wire to the plug. we also changed the plus yesterday..

[4.3LXJ]

One of the ways I always use is to insert a phillips screw driver into it and hold it by the plastic handle close to a good ground and crank the engine. That allows you to see what kind of spark you are getting. Why don't you try that, you might have the voltage but not enough to get a good spark to ignite the fuel.

[Vennessa]

what do you think about it maybe being a fuel pressure regulator? a buddy from here came out and suggested it might be that. my doubt with that is wouldnt it start with starting fluid if that was the case?

[4.3LXJ]

So, you tried starting fluid and it didn't start? If that is the case, try what I suggested on the spark plugs. Don't shock yourself though. It is the test I always use, unless you want to pull a plug and hook the wire to it and ground it while cranking. Either way, it is good to observe the spark.

[Vennessa]

is this test to determine a weak coil?

[Weldmen]

I would pull all fuses and test them in the engine fuse panel.

[4.3LXJ]

is this test to determine a weak coil?

Yes, or insufficient current to it. But since it is at the end of the line for the electricity, it tells you whether or not there is anything wrong with the system. Same with fuel pressure. I have a gauge I would put on. But if you have good spark, then we are back to the fuel system again. But if it won't fire on starting fluid, the only thing that could be wrong is wet plugs or insufficient voltage to them.

[Vennessa]

1. wont start on starting fluid
2. we are getting spark
3. replaced plugs (old ones had carbon fouling Fri. from rich mixture due to manifold/o2 issue)
4. can hear fuel pump turn on (and pressure at fuel rail)
5. can smell gas in tailpipe after I crank engine
6. have been told it could be the fuel pressure regulator but, we think it could be the camshaft position sensor in distributor causing improper timing. reason being, we have spark, we've used starter fluid and we still have no ignition.

What would you recommend:
Change fuel pressure regulator?
Replace distributor/ camshaft position sensor?

p.s. can my JGCL be timed with a timing light?

[4.3LXJ]

Yes, you can use a timing light to check your timing. I think, if I am not mistaken there is a disconnect for the distributor to isolate it from the timing adjustment from the knock sensor. Some of you guys with 4.0s can correct me if I am wrong. If you had the fuel pressure regulator apart, then yes it might need to be replaced. We had another member that had done that and it had too much pressure and it ran crappy and very rich. Did you take it off? Wish yo had a gauge, that would tell you a lot about what is happening.

[Weldmen]

Sounds like the auto kill relay is the culprit here. Have fuel have spark, but you r lacking the injectors turning on and off. No injectors no start. Take a long screw driver and put it to the a injector as you crank it. Hold the butt of it to your ear. Like relay close the little flap on yer ear with the butt of the screw driver and listen to if you hear a clicking sound or tick tick tick. That would be the injector opening and closing. If you don't here this then you have need to look at the fuel supply relay and fuse's.

[bigjim350]

Personally I dont think it would be a fuel pressure or injector problem, if it won't even hit on starter fluid. I think you may be on the right track with the distributor. Before replacing, I would see if you could borrow one from someone who knows theres works.

[Weldmen]

Im sorry I thought she said she had spark at the plugs. I must have missed something. Great to see you back Jim.

[oderdene]

found this,

4.0L engine experiencing a no start condition. Check the ASD relay feed circuit for a blown fuse. This fuse will blow when the ignition coil noise suppressor wiring comes in contact with the oil dipstick tube and rubs through the insulation.

http://www.autotechonwheels.com/images/techtips/2010/201011-05jeep-coil-capacitor.jpg

[oderdene]

Did you checked firing order (ignition wires)?

http://media.photobucket.com/image/jeep%204.0%20ignition%20wire%20order/sandman503/DSC02176.jpghttp://media.photobucket.com/image/jeep%204.0%20ignition%20wire%20order/sandman503/DSC02176.jpg


http://media.photobucket.com/image/jeep%204.0%20ignition%20wire%20order/sandman503/DSC02176.jpg

[msmoorenburg]

OK fellas I did look at the jeep friday and here is what i found

After connecting the snap-on scanner I found the tps only reading 16% (off gas petal) and 50% to 70% at full throttle. So its has a bad TPS all other sensor were reading properly. I get reading during cranking on the CPS, I have intake temp readings and current O2 sensor voltage readings. The Jeep has solid spark through the cap. The jeep did try and kick over on starting fluid but the battery was dead and running on jumper cables. Here is what's bugging me the most is it may have 5psi (tops with the pump relay jumped) on the fuel rail!! I verified the pump runs but never sounds like it pressures up to the 50ish psi needed to run the injectors. So I was planning before my break'in at the shop was to drag the torch and try starting it off acetylene. (i'll bet if fires up)

[4.3LXJ]

I wonder if she simply trashed the fuel pressure regulator when she had the manifold off?

[msmoorenburg]

I wonder if she simply trashed the fuel pressure regulator when she had the manifold off?

i was thinking about the intank regluator since it has a high pitch whine like it has no gas. The gauge said it had gas. This system has no return line :thumbdown: or i would have pinch it off to test

[Vennessa]

How could the regulator get trashed when then intake was taken off?Just curious. Thats my issue with this is why did it happen after the manifold repair? Would seem odd for another issue to coincidently pop up at the same time..I'm searching for a shop to put it in now. I can't put anymore money into this without knowing what's wrong.. We've already replaced 3 sensors and several other parts and we still don't know what the problem is...

[Mudderoy]

How could the regulator get trashed when then intake was taken off?Just curious. Thats my issue with this is why did it happen after the manifold repair? Would seem odd for another issue to coincidently pop up at the same time..I'm searching for a shop to put it in now. I can't put anymore money into this without knowing what's wrong.. We've already replaced 3 sensors and several other parts and we still don't know what the problem is...

High mileage parts may be fine one minute then you jostle them around and they stop working. This is one reason I asked if you removed the intake or just worked around it. I worked around mine because I don't like having to put a lot of things back and wind up missing something.

[XJ4IV]

this might be redundant but I read your whole thread here and I think it was only mentioned ONCE, you have a fuse box under the hood on the pass side, pop it open and check ALLLLLL Lthose fuses!
there is two in there that give me problems about once a month. I have to keep a steady supply of fuses to keep mine running!
and I DIDNT see this mentioned anywhere... and this is TOTALLY an oversight by MILLIONS of shadetree mechanics, were the plug wires put on in order? and were the plugs gaped right?

I hate starting issues. I noticed that the newer intake the PO installed and the same one you replaced HAD the plug that was left unplugged and when I went to the linked site it showed pics of what yours OE should look like and I didnt see it in that location,

Can you refresh my memory you have a what year?
the cracked one was from a what year?
and you ordered and installed a what year?
Check through your pictures from the past and see if you have ANY pictures that might show wether this plug was IN or never plugged in... you can also tell if the inside of that plug is clean since it hasnt moved since the replacement of exhaust!

[Vennessa]

I have checked every fuse and relay on that car it's not that. I replaced the exhaust manifold not the intake. i used a 97 exhaust manifold for a 97 jeep grand cherokee. that empty plug is a manifold air temp sensor, on the 97 intake it went to the airbox, on the new intake they moved it to the top of the manifold. i can plug it in either location...(its clean because my fiancée cleaned it,I thought the same thing) The firing order was checked by the person who changed the plugs, I'm sure he did it right. (he is a moderator on here)right now i'm waiting on a tow. she is going to a shop. I haven't had any luck with fixing it ourselves or with help and i need my car. I'll post results later to solve the mystery...

[Mudderoy]

I have checked every fuse and relay on that car it's not that. I replaced the exhaust manifold not the intake. i used a 97 exhaust manifold for a 97 jeep grand cherokee. that empty plug is a manifold air temp sensor, on the 97 intake it went to the airbox, on the new intake they moved it to the top of the manifold. i can plug it in either location...(its clean because my fiancée cleaned it,I thought the same thing) The firing order was checked by the person who changed the plugs, I'm sure he did it right. (he is a moderator on here)right now i'm waiting on a tow. she is going to a shop. I haven't had any luck with fixing it ourselves or with help and i need my car. I'll post results later to solve the mystery...

Please do, I hate a un-solved mystery! I'm really sorry we weren't able to figure it out for you.

[Vennessa]

can anyone recommend a good jeep shop in Houston Heights area?

[Mudderoy]

can anyone recommend a good jeep shop in Houston Heights area?

Well I have a family friend that has a shop. It's a hole in the wall place, but he's a sharp guy and always in high demand. He used to do all the work on my beloved Jeep when I could afford to have someone else work on it. :D

http://xjtalk.com/images/special/falcon_auto.jpg

Ask for Lupe, tell him that you know Tony Muckleroy from xjtalk. If he looks at you funny tell him Lupe's (my mother in-law) son in law.

His Mom and my mother in-law are long time best friends.

[xj4life2]

To bad your not closer to here I'd love to take a shot at this one sounds like fun ( we love a challenge around here). Good luck and let us know what happens.

[Vennessa]

So the Evil Truck has been in a very reputable shop since Wed. They have scanned and tested everything: the cam sensor is good,the distributor, fuel pressure,and electrical systems have been checked and they are good. She still wont start!!! The guy is trying some more things tomorrow. Will keep ya'll posted on this mechanical mystery...

[Mudderoy]

So the Evil Truck has been in a very reputable shop since Wed. They have scanned and tested everything: the cam sensor is good,the distributor, fuel pressure,and electrical systems have been checked and they are good. She still wont start!!! The guy is trying some more things tomorrow. Will keep ya'll posted on this mechanical mystery...

Check for and if found, REMOVE the Ouija board from the vehicle please!

[rguignard]

Check for and if found, REMOVE the Ouija board from the vehicle please!

:smiley-laughing021::smiley-laughing021: wow it being a b**ch then. did they ck the timing chain ? i dont even know what to say to look at :stars:

[Mudderoy]

:smiley-laughing021::smiley-laughing021: wow it being a b**ch then. did they ck the timing chain ? i dont even know what to say to look at :stars:

Wouldn't the timing chain effect the position of the cam position sensor?

[Vennessa]

timing has been ruled out, in that respect. they are switching out the ECM today to see if it was bad.

[msmoorenburg]

timing has been ruled out, in that respect. they are switching out the ECM today to see if it was bad.


I still have money on it that its fuel pressure! no modern motor will run on 5psi of fuel pressure

[4.3LXJ]

I still have money on it that its fuel pressure! no modern motor will run on 5psi of fuel pressure

If that is what it was, you are right

[KH96XJ]

Don't like to bring up old threads, but what was the verdict on this?

[Vennessa]

well it's been well over a month and the car is STILL in the shop. originally the mechanic stated the whole issue was a deffective exhaust manifold but, he replaced it and the cat and gave it back. It ran for about 12 hors before it started running rough andrich and finally died on the freeway. he picked it back up and I haven't got a clear answer yet. One day it was the ECM one day it was the wiring harness. At this point I have no idea what wrong. I'm not even 100% sure was has been replaced and what hasn't. I basically don't have a car. i wish I'd never bought the thing. If I ever find out the final verdict I will post for future inquires on a similar problem but, at this point I'm just done with the whole thing...

[cantab27]

that sucks ......cant get any of the local forum members to look at it ??????

[Vennessa]

i had a guy look at it back in March before I sent it in. Her couldn't make sense of it. Thought it was the in-tank fuel pressure regulator but, thats already been tested and ruled out. The mechanic was recommended by a forum member so I assume the mechanic has consulted with others on the car. I don't know. It's very frustrating. this would never happen on my '54...

[Mudderoy]

well it's been well over a month and the car is STILL in the shop. originally the mechanic stated the whole issue was a deffective exhaust manifold but, he replaced it and the cat and gave it back. It ran for about 12 hors before it started running rough andrich and finally died on the freeway. he picked it back up and I haven't got a clear answer yet. One day it was the ECM one day it was the wiring harness. At this point I have no idea what wrong. I'm not even 100% sure was has been replaced and what hasn't. I basically don't have a car. i wish I'd never bought the thing. If I ever find out the final verdict I will post for future inquires on a similar problem but, at this point I'm just done with the whole thing...

Completely understandable, and thanks for staying in touch with us about the progress. I sure was hoping this post was going to be the final answer.

Recently a member found a bad gear on the end of the distributor. His wouldn't run at all because the gear was almost completely worn off.

[ice_cold]

Completely understandable, and thanks for staying in touch with us about the progress. I sure was hoping this post was going to be the final answer.

Recently a member found a bad gear on the end of the distributor. His wouldn't run at all because the gear was almost completely worn off.

That would be me. My Jeep ran rough and died alot. we thought it was the manifold, gaskets, the head...all kinds of things. The gear on mine was busted up. I have talked to local members, It appears this is a sneak up on you issue as the gear wears, different issues arise. Can't hurt to check it and the cam sensor thats in the distributor.

[Vennessa]

Well I realize I suck for waiting a year to get back to y'all but here goes...According to my horrible, unprofessional, shade-tree mechanic it was a faulty wiring harness. This diagnosis came SIX months after I put the car in his care. He spent six months not returning my calls and throwing parts at a problem he couldn't diagnose. When "Alice" (as my son named the truck) came home the check engine light stayed lit for a while but eventually cleared. since then I've had a few minor problems with her but otherwise a great truck for 210,000 miles. Moral of this story is find a good mechanic and never let them go because you might end up with a guy like I got.:rolleyes:

[Mudderoy]

Well I realize I suck for waiting a year to get back to y'all but here goes...According to my horrible, unprofessional, shade-tree mechanic it was a faulty wiring harness. This diagnosis came SIX months after I put the car in his care. He spent six months not returning my calls and throwing parts at a problem he couldn't diagnose. When "Alice" (as my son named the truck) came home the check engine light stayed lit for a while but eventually cleared. since then I've had a few minor problems with her but otherwise a great truck for 210,000 miles. Moral of this story is find a good mechanic and never let them go because you might end up with a guy like I got.:rolleyes:

:smiley-laughing021:

I think you're being a little to hard on yourself. I mean after all you did come back and let us know what happened. It's hard for me to trust someone to cut my hair much less work on my vehicle. If I had 3 spare it might be different.

Stop in more often and share some interesting stories with us! You're always welcome. :thumbsup:

[4.3LXJ]

Glad ya got it sorted out Vannessa. You just never know about those shade trees