Need advice

[ice_cold]

Well finally got the head off the engine. The head gasket was intact, no burned out areas or blow outs. The thing is I drained all the coolant and cylinders 1,2, and 3 had a little moisture in them. 4 had a puddle, 5 was flooded and 6 had a little bit.
So now after double checking the oil, which has no water in it, just looks like it needs to be changed, I am at a logger head.
Worst case has the head cracked or even just has a major warp, its all that i can think of. It's just cooking off the coolant and leaving the oil alone.
Does this sound plausible?

I have pics, but my daughter took the patch cord to it, so I wont be able to post them till later.

Mike

[Mudderoy]

Well finally got the head off the engine. The head gasket was intact, no burned out areas or blow outs. The thing is I drained all the coolant and cylinders 1,2, and 3 had a little moisture in them. 4 had a puddle, 5 was flooded and 6 had a little bit.
So now after double checking the oil, which has no water in it, just looks like it needs to be changed, I am at a logger head.
Worst case has the head cracked or even just has a major warp, its all that i can think of. It's just cooking off the coolant and leaving the oil alone.
Does this sound plausible?

I have pics, but my daughter took the patch cord to it, so I wont be able to post them till later.

Mike

It really depends on how much work and how badly you need your Jeep back in running order. My Jeep is my daily driver, and I really wouldn't want to take the head off again. I would have the head checked. Perhaps have the valves done. I would not leave the oil that is in there now, in there, and I would clean all the moisture out of the cylinders. That's me, but you might want to wait to hear from someone with experience on the 4.0. I've never had mine apart.

[xj4life2]

Well if I were to gues I would say cracked water jacket in the head. I would take it to a machine shop and have it pressure tested if its good have them do the valves and plane the bottom. I however think they will tell you the head is gone. Keeping in mind this is just a guess. Good luck I hope all works out for ya

[ice_cold]

My thinking was water jacket. My buddy is saying it could be the block, I am doubting this big time. It feels more like a head issue than a block. Nothing in the oil, but loosing coolant and it appears as a vapor out the tail pipe. I have a feeling its in the port area of cylinders 4 and 5.
So now the question is, do I replace the head with another from a 96 to 98. Or say piss on it and just find another engine and swap it over. Good thing my wifes a good sport, and does not mind running me to work everyday.
Maybe its time to look at a SB swap?...now there is a thought....muhahahaha


Mike

[Mudderoy]

My thinking was water jacket. My buddy is saying it could be the block, I am doubting this big time. It feels more like a head issue than a block. Nothing in the oil, but loosing coolant and it appears as a vapor out the tail pipe. I have a feeling its in the port area of cylinders 4 and 5.
So now the question is, do I replace the head with another from a 96 to 98. Or say piss on it and just find another engine and swap it over. Good thing my wifes a good sport, and does not mind running me to work everyday.
Maybe its time to look at a SB swap?...now there is a thought....muhahahaha


Mike

That's a tough call. You could get a new(ish) head on there and find more engine problems. Of couse if you did at least you'd have a good head!

[default83]

drop a level/flat edge on the head and see if there is a gap in the middle, if there is its warped, thats how we used to check em before we paid a shop...

[4.3LXJ]

When I have done head gaskets jobs before, which I did regularly till I got my cooling issues under control, I took the heads (I have a Chevy in mine) to a machine shop and had them check them. Granted it costs a little money, but I got a firm diagnosis out of it after they checked the heads for warpage and cracks. It turned out that I had bad gaskets both times. I would add that you won't find pieces missing or anything like that from the gaskets. It will be subtle, but there will only be a slight change in the color of the iron or gasket. Also, I have found that the best way to tell is if all the gasket is sticking to the metal on both sides or not. If there is a place where it comes loose and you don't have to scrape gasket off, that is where it leaks. Also, your fluid is in the rear cylinders, the place where the gasket is most likely to fail.

[xj4life2]

I agree that its more than likely the rear cylanders that are the culprit as they are the always the least cooled by the system. Before you jump to conclusions have the heads professionally checked if the head is ok then you may have a block issue but again more than likely its the head and most shops will have nice rebuilt available for a very reasonable cost. As 4.3 said look at the mateing serface that can tell you alot !!!

[ice_cold]

Good thing the weather is nice up here!

Going to find my straight edge (or go buy one), and check the head.
As was mentioned, in hind sight, the gasket down around those cylinders was not "stuck" to the engine, they just lifted off easy.
Well, it it turns out to be the worse case, I found a head shop 3 hours south of me thats clearing old stock and have 4.0 heads on for $50. So I guess after getting it tested, there is a chance my wife will be visiting family, while I go shopping.

[Thomass]

keep in mind that the 11th head bold (the on left of the thermostat housing) is in fact standing in the cooling water, and need to be "glued" (locktite 592 sealant or equivalent) (often wrongly forgotten) and set with an lower torque.(100 ft-lbs see fsm)
If the threat on the bold or in the block is bad, or has been mounted before without the glue (wrong word) it can leak cooling liquid witch will end up as a visible vapor in the exhaust...Often mistaken seen as an blown gasket.

[ice_cold]

well found a guy who does head work...said he would look at it. We scraped it and then ran a green pad over it..did not look to bad...then we hit it with the mag and magic dust.

Between cylinders 5 and 6 there was a crack about 1/4 inch long but between 3 and 4 it was cracked clear across. From one bolt hole to the other. 60 pound anchor....

But found a EJC member whose son just put a rod threw the block of his Cherokee. $50 for the whole engine, hoping the cranks in good shape, its a Mopar stroker crank. Salvage what I can, then junk the rest. He also has a gauge cluster for a 98 to get me full gauges...$25.
With fingers crossed for tomorrow, I may get the beast running again.