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View Full Version : Installing lights on a Roof Rack, Advice Please!!



brianwy77
05-04-2010, 09:29 PM
I am in stalling a Gobi roof rack, with Delta lights. I am looking for ideas on where to run the wires on the front and back. I want to make sure it looks good and is going to hold up to the weather. I am not so up on drilling holes in the roof. Does any one have any Ideas on whats the best way to get the job done.

4.3LXJ
05-04-2010, 10:23 PM
Somewhere along the line you will have to breech the roof to run roof lights. The only other option is to run the wires all the way back and down under the tailgate. And those will likely get pinched.

d0nt_h8
05-04-2010, 11:49 PM
..Yep this is true. I was originally very against drilling, but it's true- and I decided finally to go shortest route. Drilled & very thoroughly resealed area directly beneath light rack. I check it often- so far so good!:thumbsup:

UKJeepThang
05-05-2010, 03:31 AM
I did the same.

Drill the smallest holes that you need into the roof under the rack. Use a "holed" grommet, feed the wires through and seal up with silicon. I did mine a couple of years ago and I've not had any leak problems.

I also installed some waterproof connectors between the lights and the roof so that if I ever needed to remove the rack I can just undo the rack fittings, disconnect the connectors and remove the rack/lights as one unit. A lot easier than having to disconnect each individual lights. :thumbsup:

brianwy77
05-05-2010, 11:03 PM
Thanks for the advice guys. I am going to get after it some time this week. Were supose to get a big snow storm tonight and tomorrow. I am over winter.

Xtreme XJ
05-07-2010, 02:18 AM
So what do y'all think of running the wiring up the "B" pillar with a plug... then come off your lights with a pigtail long enough to enter the cabin say through the rear Dr. side door and plug in when needed...
Admittedly a bit of a pain, but when you know you're going to be out plug them in. Do y'all think the wires would be damaged ??

Just a thought...

Curt

Mudderoy
05-07-2010, 09:01 AM
So what do y'all think of running the wiring up the "B" pillar with a plug... then come off your lights with a pigtail long enough to enter the cabin say through the rear Dr. side door and plug in when needed...
Admittedly a bit of a pain, but when you know you're going to be out plug them in. Do y'all think the wires would be damaged ??

Just a thought...

Curt

Do you mean instead of hooking them up to a switch? If so, I would spend the extra $10 and 30 minutes to put a disconnect (like from a trailer hitch) and wire everything to a relay and a switch, or two.

Xtreme XJ
05-07-2010, 10:41 AM
Do you mean instead of hooking them up to a switch? If so, I would spend the extra $10 and 30 minutes to put a disconnect (like from a trailer hitch) and wire everything to a relay and a switch, or two.

No... wire it up as you would normally... just have some type "plug" to connect when needed... the lights would still use a switch/relay... just the wires would run through the door opening (hopefully cushioned by the weather stripping) as opposed to through the roof...

I'm sure it can be sealed by going through the roof, but for the few hours one uses their light...

Curt

Mudderoy
05-07-2010, 11:47 AM
No... wire it up as you would normally... just have some type "plug" to connect when needed... the lights would still use a switch/relay... just the wires would run through the door opening (hopefully cushioned by the weather stripping) as opposed to through the roof...

I'm sure it can be sealed by going through the roof, but for the few hours one uses their light...

Curt

I'm sure it would work and could be done safely, however if that wire ever wore down enough to short out that would be several amps of current arching. I wouldn't do it that way. Drill the hole. :smiley-scared002:

Xtreme XJ
05-07-2010, 12:42 PM
I'm sure it would work and could be done safely, however if that wire ever wore down enough to short out that would be several amps of current arching. I wouldn't do it that way. Drill the hole. :smiley-scared002:

True... but wouldn't it arch no matter the routing of the wires if they were wore? Maybe worse if under the dash maybe near the carpeting... taking the "wore down" thought... there are SEVERAL places where chaffing or wear can happen with the "normal" routing of wires... in this application the wires would still be in a loom... with no more chance of shorting then any other install... probably less... no sharp edges... other then where it's ran in the same places the "normal" routing would be.
They're there for a few hours... then unplugged... with a normal install it's in the same place all the time... wearing at the same point all the time, hundreds (actually thousands) more hours then this set up would be.
Maybe not... I've only been wanting to put lights on my rack for 10 years... I haven't been able to find them though... BUT !! if I do then I'll give it a try.

Curt

Mudderoy
05-07-2010, 01:01 PM
True... but wouldn't it arch no matter the routing of the wires if they were wore? Maybe worse if under the dash maybe near the carpeting... taking the "wore down" thought... there are SEVERAL places where chaffing or wear can happen with the "normal" routing of wires... in this application the wires would still be in a loom... with no more chance of shorting then any other install... probably less... no sharp edges... other then where it's ran in the same places the "normal" routing would be.
They're there for a few hours... then unplugged... with a normal install it's in the same place all the time... wearing at the same point all the time, hundreds (actually thousands) more hours then this set up would be.
Maybe not... I've only been wanting to put lights on my rack for 10 years... I haven't been able to find them though... BUT !! if I do then I'll give it a try.

Curt

Well two things. If it arched it would either be between the headliner and the roof, or outside, which to me is much better than next to my head and full head of hair. :smiley-laughing021: Secondly I think that less chafing would occur through a hole with a rubber grommet than the opening and closing of a door plus the slack of the wire might allow it to move.

Like I said, I still think it could be done safely, I just wouldn't want to do it that way. It's like using a mag mount CB antenna and running the coax through the door opening. It will work but all in all it sucks (in my opinion).

Xtreme XJ
05-07-2010, 03:26 PM
It's like using a mag mount CB antenna and running the coax through the door opening. It will work but all in all it sucks (in my opinion).

:rotfl2: I've had my MAG mount on the XJ for 150K miles and 13 yrs. entering through the hatch and running forward... my radio is the ONE that always works and has yet to have any problems (knock on wood). Had an FM race radio on the F-250 for over 100 races & about 160K miles (probably 40K+ solely in Mexico)... and a CB in the same truck with a mag mount going out the slider for even longer...

I finally cut my hair... :D i am worried about my hairy legs though... :rotfl2:

Curt

Mudderoy
05-07-2010, 03:52 PM
:rotfl2: I've had my MAG mount on the XJ for 150K miles and 13 yrs. entering through the hatch and running forward... my radio is the ONE that always works and has yet to have any problems (knock on wood). Had an FM race radio on the F-250 for over 100 races & about 160K miles (probably 40K+ solely in Mexico)... and a CB in the same truck with a mag mount going out the slider for even longer...

I finally cut my hair... :D i am worried about my hairy legs though... :rotfl2:

Curt

Wow if cutting your hair exposed the hair on your legs, that was long! :smiley-laughing021:

4.3LXJ
05-08-2010, 09:31 AM
.

I finally cut my hair... :D i am worried about my hairy legs though... :rotfl2:

Curt

If you ever loose it on your head, just do a transplant. It is like having spare parts. :rotfl2:

HokieAirman
01-16-2011, 12:50 PM
Some things I learned from my light install several years ago (different Jeep, different time)...

1. Drill a slightly bigger hole. I drilled mine just large enough to fit the wires and ended up cutting the insulation.
2. Use a heftier, stronger grommet. I used a grommet, but it was cheap and the metal cut right through it...and through the wire.
3. Install a quick disconnect plug. I thought I was a genius for successfully installing my lights (at least initially they worked). I rested on my laurels until one day when I needed to remove the rack...out came the wire cutters.
4. Wire it correctly.
5. Rust-oleum the holes I drilled.
6. Use a wiring housing.

Things I would still do the same way:

1. I installed 4 lights on the lower front bar of my Garvin rack. Drilled 4 holes through it. The brackets on the lights were such that I could fold them down if I ever needed to carry something that extended over them...they protruded about 2 inches above the top surface.
2. Install them facing forward... :)
3. Put the wiring through the roof...things look much neater this way and aren't as likely to get snagged and ripped off by a stray branch (or a stray Jeep hitting a branch).

Nicksdsm
01-16-2011, 02:27 PM
I saw somewhere where you dont need to put a hole in the roof to run the wires. I'll look and post the site.

Nicksdsm
01-16-2011, 02:33 PM
Wires are run through the roof rack and enter the cab though the rear hatch wire grommet . It's going to take a lot more wire but you don't have to drill a hole.

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f310/light-bar-finally-done-947254/