Mudderoy
04-16-2010, 10:10 PM
http://xjtalk.com/images/special/jeepinjector9.jpg
At 150k+ miles and a MPG issue that won't improve I decided to take the plunge and replace my injectors.
I found some Ford 9L3E-E7A 24lb Injectors for $69.50 on eBay.
These are EV6 and the Jeep is a EV1 connector on the harness. So I purchased some adapters.
You can get some connectors off a Mustang and just splice them in if you like, but I wanted the ability to use either EV1 or EV6 injectors.
All in all the injector swap was easy, and total time (my first time to ever do an injector swap) was 1.5 hours,
and that included taking pictures.
Disconnect the battery. You need to do this anyway because the computer needs to re-learn the sensors and adjust the new injectors.
http://xjtalk.com/images/special/jeepinjector1.jpg
Unscrew the gas cap and let it hang. This helps relieve pressure on the fuel system. You really don't want gas shooting every where when you disconnect the fuel line.
http://xjtalk.com/images/special/jeepinjector2.jpg
Remove the tube from the throttle body and stuff a rag or something in there. You don't want anything falling in.
Disconnect the three cables. Two you push forward the throttle cable I used a screwdriver and pushed it to the side until it popped off.
Remove the 3 bolts that hold the bracket to the intake. This bracket holds the 3 cables in place. The bolts are 10mm. Righty tighty, lefty loosey!
Move the bracket and cables to the front of the engine bay and clear of the fuel rail.
http://xjtalk.com/images/special/jeepinjector3.jpg
Label the injector lines! I used a label maker to print 1 through 6 labels.
Now disconnect the EV1 connectors from the OEM injectors.
http://xjtalk.com/images/special/jeepinjector4.jpg
Locate the fuel rail pressure relief valve, yes it looks like a bicycle tire stem. Remove the cap.
http://xjtalk.com/images/special/jeepinjector5.jpg
Place a rag/towel under the stem and use something to press in the pin and let out the fuel. I had to do this for about 30 seconds. Then I stopped, waited about 5 seconds and did it again, and I noticed some pressure had built back up. I kept doing this until I got sick of it. I never could get it to stop "burping" each time I would press in the stem valve.
http://xjtalk.com/images/special/jeepinjector6.jpg
You'll need one of these quick release tools. They are plastic and are pretty cheap (as I recall). I used the smallest one 5/16, light blue on the fuel line.
http://xjtalk.com/images/special/jeepinjector7.jpg
I pushed the fuel line towards the fuel rail and the little quick release tool, then I move the fuel line back and it disconnected. First try!
http://xjtalk.com/images/special/jeepinjector8.jpg
Once the fuel line was off I used the same 10mm socket to remove the 4 bolts that hold the fuel rail to the intake manifold. The 4th, closest to the firewall is a double ended bolt. You're CPS connector is attached to this bolt via a nut and a bracket. You'll be removing the nut, the bracket then the rest of the bolt.
Now the fuel rail is free from the intake. Carefully pull back on the fuel rail. I tried to keep things straight. I didn't want to twist anything. Let me tell you those injectors were really in there. The first one finally came free then the rest. I have a 1" transfer case drop on my rig, and this may be why there was still fuel in the rail. It was at the back of the rail near the number 6 injector. There is a fair amount of fuel in there! You'll need to drain that out. It will come out all it's own if you're not careful when you remove the injectors from the rail!
I took the fuel rail to my workbench and then remove the clips holding the OEM injectors to the fuel rail. I then removed all the old injectors.
One "O" ring stayed in the intake and a few "O" rings stayed in the fuel rail.
Carefully remove them. I then put the lose "O" rings back on the injectors.
Using some left over motor oil I coated the NEW "O" rings on the NEW(ish) injectors. First I placed the new injectors into the fuel rail. The slid in very easily. I was concerned about this so I took an old injector, put oil on it's "O" ring and it slid in just as easy. I was happy that everything was fitting as it should. I removed the old injector and continued installing the remaining 5 injectors.
Once they were in place I installed the OEM clips that I had removed earlier from the injectors and the fuel rail. They fit like a glove.
The assembly of the fuel rail with injectors is now complete.
I used some more motor oil to coat the "O" rings that would be inserted into the intake.
I then placed the fuel rail / injectors carefully lining up the injectors ends with the holes they were to go into, in the intake.
I pushed them in gently. I really didn't think they were in until I tried pulling back on the fuel rail slightly. It really feels lose as the whole thing can pivot up and down easily. I saw that the fuel rail brackets were even with the bolt holes on the intake. This clued me that the injectors were fully inserted.
I put the 4 10 mm bolts back in and tighten them down. Remember the bolt at the rear is the one you use to attach the CPS connector bracket.
Now take the fuel line and reattach it to the fuel rail. Put the retaining clip back in place.
I placed each adapter on each injector then using the labels that I had placed on the injector connectors previously I reattached each connector to an injector.
Then I took the bracket that holds the 3 control cables and used the 3 10 mm bolts to secure it to the top of the intake. There was a clearance issue between the number 3 injector and the bottom of the bracket. This is due to the adapter. I was able to turn the injector to the side slightly.
http://xjtalk.com/images/special/jeepinjector12.jpg
This made it hard to get the bolt in and tighten it. It was a minor issue I just had to use a small wrench instead of my 3/8 socket drive.
Now reattach the control cables to the throttle body, and pop the cables back into the plastic guides on top of the valve cover.
Remove the rag from the throttle body and reattach the tube running to the air cleaner.
Reattach the negative battery cable to the battery.
Return the gas cap to it's normal position in the gas refueling tube.
At this point I double checked everything. Looking for any tools, or things that were not connected.
I went to the cockpit and inserted the key. I moved the key to "run" and quickly went back to the engine bay to check for any leaks.
Nothing that I could see or smell. I continued to check for at least a minute.
Once satisfied, at least for now, I decided to crank the engine. It took a little longer to start, but it started. It was running a little ruff at first, that that cleared up after about 2 minutes.
I continued to check for any fuel leaks. None were found so I took her for a test drive. In the 2, maybe 3 miles that I drove I didn't notice any change in performance. It does run good. I will go to the gas station and fill up tomorrow so I can get a good full tank mpg measurement with the new injectors.
Here is the finished product.
http://xjtalk.com/images/special/jeepinjector9.jpg
This gives you a comparison between the Ford (left) injector and the Jeep OEM injector (right)
http://xjtalk.com/images/special/jeepinjector10.jpg
Here is the single hole business end of the Jeep OEM injector.
http://xjtalk.com/images/special/jeepinjector11.jpg
This is the 6 holed Ford injector.
http://lh3.ggpht.com/_b0ViaGso2Ko/S8EZgn7vVQI/AAAAAAAAABI/Hf95PqNtu0o/2010-04-10%2019.35.31.jpg
At 150k+ miles and a MPG issue that won't improve I decided to take the plunge and replace my injectors.
I found some Ford 9L3E-E7A 24lb Injectors for $69.50 on eBay.
These are EV6 and the Jeep is a EV1 connector on the harness. So I purchased some adapters.
You can get some connectors off a Mustang and just splice them in if you like, but I wanted the ability to use either EV1 or EV6 injectors.
All in all the injector swap was easy, and total time (my first time to ever do an injector swap) was 1.5 hours,
and that included taking pictures.
Disconnect the battery. You need to do this anyway because the computer needs to re-learn the sensors and adjust the new injectors.
http://xjtalk.com/images/special/jeepinjector1.jpg
Unscrew the gas cap and let it hang. This helps relieve pressure on the fuel system. You really don't want gas shooting every where when you disconnect the fuel line.
http://xjtalk.com/images/special/jeepinjector2.jpg
Remove the tube from the throttle body and stuff a rag or something in there. You don't want anything falling in.
Disconnect the three cables. Two you push forward the throttle cable I used a screwdriver and pushed it to the side until it popped off.
Remove the 3 bolts that hold the bracket to the intake. This bracket holds the 3 cables in place. The bolts are 10mm. Righty tighty, lefty loosey!
Move the bracket and cables to the front of the engine bay and clear of the fuel rail.
http://xjtalk.com/images/special/jeepinjector3.jpg
Label the injector lines! I used a label maker to print 1 through 6 labels.
Now disconnect the EV1 connectors from the OEM injectors.
http://xjtalk.com/images/special/jeepinjector4.jpg
Locate the fuel rail pressure relief valve, yes it looks like a bicycle tire stem. Remove the cap.
http://xjtalk.com/images/special/jeepinjector5.jpg
Place a rag/towel under the stem and use something to press in the pin and let out the fuel. I had to do this for about 30 seconds. Then I stopped, waited about 5 seconds and did it again, and I noticed some pressure had built back up. I kept doing this until I got sick of it. I never could get it to stop "burping" each time I would press in the stem valve.
http://xjtalk.com/images/special/jeepinjector6.jpg
You'll need one of these quick release tools. They are plastic and are pretty cheap (as I recall). I used the smallest one 5/16, light blue on the fuel line.
http://xjtalk.com/images/special/jeepinjector7.jpg
I pushed the fuel line towards the fuel rail and the little quick release tool, then I move the fuel line back and it disconnected. First try!
http://xjtalk.com/images/special/jeepinjector8.jpg
Once the fuel line was off I used the same 10mm socket to remove the 4 bolts that hold the fuel rail to the intake manifold. The 4th, closest to the firewall is a double ended bolt. You're CPS connector is attached to this bolt via a nut and a bracket. You'll be removing the nut, the bracket then the rest of the bolt.
Now the fuel rail is free from the intake. Carefully pull back on the fuel rail. I tried to keep things straight. I didn't want to twist anything. Let me tell you those injectors were really in there. The first one finally came free then the rest. I have a 1" transfer case drop on my rig, and this may be why there was still fuel in the rail. It was at the back of the rail near the number 6 injector. There is a fair amount of fuel in there! You'll need to drain that out. It will come out all it's own if you're not careful when you remove the injectors from the rail!
I took the fuel rail to my workbench and then remove the clips holding the OEM injectors to the fuel rail. I then removed all the old injectors.
One "O" ring stayed in the intake and a few "O" rings stayed in the fuel rail.
Carefully remove them. I then put the lose "O" rings back on the injectors.
Using some left over motor oil I coated the NEW "O" rings on the NEW(ish) injectors. First I placed the new injectors into the fuel rail. The slid in very easily. I was concerned about this so I took an old injector, put oil on it's "O" ring and it slid in just as easy. I was happy that everything was fitting as it should. I removed the old injector and continued installing the remaining 5 injectors.
Once they were in place I installed the OEM clips that I had removed earlier from the injectors and the fuel rail. They fit like a glove.
The assembly of the fuel rail with injectors is now complete.
I used some more motor oil to coat the "O" rings that would be inserted into the intake.
I then placed the fuel rail / injectors carefully lining up the injectors ends with the holes they were to go into, in the intake.
I pushed them in gently. I really didn't think they were in until I tried pulling back on the fuel rail slightly. It really feels lose as the whole thing can pivot up and down easily. I saw that the fuel rail brackets were even with the bolt holes on the intake. This clued me that the injectors were fully inserted.
I put the 4 10 mm bolts back in and tighten them down. Remember the bolt at the rear is the one you use to attach the CPS connector bracket.
Now take the fuel line and reattach it to the fuel rail. Put the retaining clip back in place.
I placed each adapter on each injector then using the labels that I had placed on the injector connectors previously I reattached each connector to an injector.
Then I took the bracket that holds the 3 control cables and used the 3 10 mm bolts to secure it to the top of the intake. There was a clearance issue between the number 3 injector and the bottom of the bracket. This is due to the adapter. I was able to turn the injector to the side slightly.
http://xjtalk.com/images/special/jeepinjector12.jpg
This made it hard to get the bolt in and tighten it. It was a minor issue I just had to use a small wrench instead of my 3/8 socket drive.
Now reattach the control cables to the throttle body, and pop the cables back into the plastic guides on top of the valve cover.
Remove the rag from the throttle body and reattach the tube running to the air cleaner.
Reattach the negative battery cable to the battery.
Return the gas cap to it's normal position in the gas refueling tube.
At this point I double checked everything. Looking for any tools, or things that were not connected.
I went to the cockpit and inserted the key. I moved the key to "run" and quickly went back to the engine bay to check for any leaks.
Nothing that I could see or smell. I continued to check for at least a minute.
Once satisfied, at least for now, I decided to crank the engine. It took a little longer to start, but it started. It was running a little ruff at first, that that cleared up after about 2 minutes.
I continued to check for any fuel leaks. None were found so I took her for a test drive. In the 2, maybe 3 miles that I drove I didn't notice any change in performance. It does run good. I will go to the gas station and fill up tomorrow so I can get a good full tank mpg measurement with the new injectors.
Here is the finished product.
http://xjtalk.com/images/special/jeepinjector9.jpg
This gives you a comparison between the Ford (left) injector and the Jeep OEM injector (right)
http://xjtalk.com/images/special/jeepinjector10.jpg
Here is the single hole business end of the Jeep OEM injector.
http://xjtalk.com/images/special/jeepinjector11.jpg
This is the 6 holed Ford injector.
http://lh3.ggpht.com/_b0ViaGso2Ko/S8EZgn7vVQI/AAAAAAAAABI/Hf95PqNtu0o/2010-04-10%2019.35.31.jpg