Need help adding 1.5" to 3.5" lift

[weaselguys]

I have a 2001 with full traction 3.5" lift,no sye,no shims in rear axle and no vibes.I'm adding 1.5" spacers and shackles because I'm rubbing to much.I know this will throw off the drive line angles so I will be adding shims ,any suggestions on what degree ? A sye is out for now I was thinking about a transfer case drop.I was looking at the cross member and the drive shaft when I noticed that the cross member dips down approx 1/2" already,does anyone here have a 2000-2001 and does your cross member do this ? Looking at it I'm thinking of only adding 1/2" of washers ,this should give me 1" of drop.What do you guys think of my angles now and of what I'm thinking,This is my first lifted vehicle and I did not lift it.I am about to swap in a HP30,iron man 4x4 ez adj trackbar,tie rod ,adj UCA'S and LCA's.rough country quick disco's and I just added rough country stainless steel brake lines.My rear seal seams to be showing stress now.Im including pics.http://i968.photobucket.com/albums/ae168/weaselguys/100_5596.jpg,http://i968.photobucket.com/albums/ae168/weaselguys/100_5595.jpg,http://i968.photobucket.com/albums/ae168/weaselguys/100_5593.jpg,http://i968.photobucket.com/albums/ae168/weaselguys/100_5592.jpg

[4.3LXJ]

First the easy part. Your cross member is just like everyone else's.

It is hard to hit a god rule of thumb on this because of the change in rear end manufacturers in 96. So here is how you do it. You need to get an angle finder available at most tool stores, except sears.

http://i649.photobucket.com/albums/uu215/warriorsuspension/Build%20Stuff/IMG_0455.jpg

As you can see, it has a magnetic base so yo can stick it to steel. Use it to check the angle on the pinion and tcase. These angles need to be close. I can tell from your pic that is already the case. But you will change your pinion angle by a couple of degrees at least.

Here is a diagram of the relationship of what the angles are supposed to be.

http://i649.photobucket.com/albums/uu215/warriorsuspension/2joint_angle.gif

After yo take your measurements, use shims or tcase drops to make the pinion and tcase angles as close as possible

[Mudderoy]

I bought one of these gauges, but what am I missing here? There is no mention of angles or where I'm measuring.

Edit: Well I'm guessing I'm measuring the angle of the transfer case and the pumpkin. How many degrees is too many?

[4.3LXJ]

Remove the drive line from the diff and use the gage on the vertical part of the yoke. Then pull the drive line from the tcase and measure the angle on the end of the output shaft. These angles need to be as close as possible. One of these soon when Abovetimberline comes to my shop to do his bastard pack we will do a detailed write up on drive lines

[Mudderoy]

Remove the drive line from the diff and use the gage on the vertical part of the yoke. Then pull the drive line from the tcase and measure the angle on the end of the output shaft. These angles need to be as close as possible. One of these soon when Abovetimberline comes to my shop to do his bastard pack we will do a detailed write up on drive lines

AHhhh ok that makes more sense. I was trying to understand how I could do it with the drive shaft in place.

[weaselguys]

I was wondering what a angle finder looked like,you said not sears,I take it you don't like your then.I thought that the cross member was flat all the way across,the drop cross member from rusty's mst stick down quite abit then.Thanks

[4.3LXJ]

I was wondering what a angle finder looked like,you said not sears,I take it you don't like your then.I thought that the cross member was flat all the way across,the drop cross member from rusty's mst stick down quite abit then.Thanks

I have had that angle finder for about 20 years, they don't sell them any more. But everybody else's looks identical.

[Captain Ruggy]

Why not just trim your fenders a little to eliminate the rubbing? It's a lot cheaper then lifting more and you don't create more problems.

[weaselguys]

I would if I was ready to swap flairs ,but I don't have the ones I want yet.The factory one are not wide enough and I keep knocking them off.So far Iv'e spent $150.00 on the extra lift,not to bad and that will help with the dents in the tranny and such.I have to replace the front end so I thought it would be a good time to go up a little.

[W.O.R.P.Offroad]

you said a sye is out what about a hack n tap? cheaper just as strong in most cases and dont have to loose any ground clearence under the crossmember

[weaselguys]

I plan to swap my NP231 out for a NP242 ,I commute 70 miles a day and prefer the 242 for highway use ,no shifting out of 4 wheel just because you hit dry pavement.