Crazy Talk, or Worth While Idea?

[Baseless]

Hello, all! Been almost a year since I was on here last... Anyway, I have a question about the slip yoke... Is an SYE really necissary to eliminate driveline vibrations? The same goes for a T-Case drop bracket. My thoughts and real question is simply this: can ANY 27-spline slip yoke be used with the NP231 case, so long as the length isn't too much and the shaft angle isn't too extreme of an angle?

Now, to verify that I am serious about this question, here is my reasoning. With an SYE, you spend a minimum of ~$130 (give or take) for the kit itself, then you would have to go ahead and get/make a custom (or front) shaft (which can be REALLY expensive)... As for the T-Case drop, it kindof defeats the pourpose of having the lift in the first place... Now, what really got me thinking: For $36 (+ whatever shipping may be), you can get this yoke (https://www.summitracing.com/parts/axe-t350-hp/overview/) from Summit, and just cut it to length... WITHOUT sacrificing ground clearance or gas money! Or can you...?

[prerunner1982]

:xj-green:

[4.3LXJ]

On the late XJs the issue is the amount of length of the yoke that engages the splines on the output shaft of the tcase. It is a design issue. It will move out far enough to wobble.

[Baseless]

Exactly what mine is doing... I was wondering if a longer yoke would stop it from doing that.

[4.3LXJ]

The only longer yoke I am aware of is the YJ yoke. It has longer ears on it and so is a little longer. It is the splines that are the issue and how far out the yoke is on them.

[Baseless]

Wouldn't a longer yoke sut further back on the splines, though?

[4.3LXJ]

Yes, 1/2" further

[Baseless]

Then, theoretically, wouldn't a longer yoke elimine the wobble, and not require a counterproductive t-case drop or an expensive SYE to achieve the same result?

[4.3LXJ]

In theory maybe. I won't say for sure on that since I have never done it on a late XJ

[Baseless]

Alright. I will get the big stuff out of the way (engine replacement and bodywork), then I'll report back with my findings.

[Mudderoy]

Alright. I will get the big stuff out of the way (engine replacement and bodywork), then I'll report back with my findings.

I'm not a fan of the hack and tap but you can do that for under $200, and I've seen them for $100. Then you'd use a front driveshaft for the rear.

[Baseless]

I had seen the one from IRO, but wasn't sure what to use for a drive shaft...

Anyone know if any of the other NP231 drive shafts were/are overall longer? I mean from ANY vehicle that used 'em, not just Jeeps.

[4.3LXJ]

As far as I know, it is just the 231 drive shaft from an AW4 XJ. Plenty of those around. Also check Dirt Bound Off Road for their kit

[Baseless]

As it turns out, the Dirt Bound Hack n Tap IS Iron Rock Offroad's...

[89limited_hero]

What size lift are you running? With around 3" a custom drive shaft is needed. 4.5" a xj front drive shaft will work 4.0l, aw4 is what to look for. Now 6.5" a front shaft from a zj with a 4.0l and np242 is what is needed as collapsed length is about the same as the extended length of the xj front shaft.

Also the iron rock offroad kit is nice and makes for a bolt in setup once installed. Rubicon express has a kit as well but uses a flange not a yoke. So a flange to yoke adaptor would need to be sourced. And raises the price and makes to hard to use you front shaft in a pinch if you needed to get home.