1985 XJ 2.5L - It ain't perfect and I need help! Haha

[Schoobs]

Hello and thanks for letting me into the community. My name is Cody and I live in Calgary Canada. I just got my first Jeep a few months back, a 1985 Cherokee 2.5L XJ. Little rough around the edged but has survived 2 trips to Waiporous and only has 173k km on it.

I've had up and down issues with it, replaced a few parts already, but I found my way to this forum to attain help with my current Overheating issue. I will post in the appropriate forum but if you're interested in giving me an opinion please find my other post through my profile.

Thanks again

[89limited_hero]

Welcome

Have you replaced any cooling parts yet? If not places/parts to look at is water pump, thermostat, radiator, clutch fan working, blocked heater core and hoses. One or a combination of could be the problem. Maybe someone with an older xj might be able to give some better info. But those are most of the cooling system parts if not all.

[Schoobs]

Welcome

Have you replaced any cooling parts yet? If not places/parts to look at is water pump, thermostat, radiator, clutch fan working, blocked heater core and hoses. One or a combination of could be the problem. Maybe someone with an older xj might be able to give some better info. But those are most of the cooling system parts if not all.

Hey hero, thanks for the reply. Yes at this point I have installed the water pump and stat. I've been doing research on YouTube on how to make sure there's no air in the system, so I will be doing that test tomorrow. If that doesn't work, I will check the rad for clogs, if it's neither of those things, than the last thing I'll try is maybe investigating the fan clutch (I have NO IDEA how this piece works hahah) as I've read that that may cause overheating.

However I was not getting hot air in the cab when I had the heat on hot and I do not notice signs of a leaky heatercore, so perhaps it's just air.

Again thanks for a response and I will keep the thread posted with my progress.

[89limited_hero]

If your not getting hot air in through the vents sounds like a blocked heater core. Since the hot coolant can't flow through it so it can generate the heat for the heater. Or it doesn't have enough coolant in the system. What did the coolant look like when you changed the water pump?
One trick that has worked for me Is to get the radiator cap the highest part of the cooling system then burp the system by squeezing the upper radiator hose till the bubbles stop coming out the radiator opening as you put small amounts back in. Then when you think its good rev it with the cap off still to suck the coolant down and fill some more then put the cap back on still under rev. Can be done by yourself but easier the first time or three with another set of hands. I've had good luck with it when I was a forklift tech, personal rigs and doing side jobs.

[4.3LXJ]

Welcome Cody. You are not alone up there. We have two other members in Calgary, JEMSSEN and Pookapotamus. Both nice and knowledgable guys. If you have any rust at all in the system it probably means you have a plugged heater core. It is possible to not have heat if the coolant is low in the engine, but you would notice that as low coolant levels in the radiator. The 2.5 does not have the same issues as the 4.0 with the closed system. That started in 87. I think it would be wise to start with a flush and try to get some coolant to go in reverse through the heater core. Do your dash controls work properly for the HVAC?

[Schoobs]

If your not getting hot air in through the vents sounds like a blocked heater core. Since the hot coolant can't flow through it so it can generate the heat for the heater. Or it doesn't have enough coolant in the system. What did the coolant look like when you changed the water pump?
One trick that has worked for me Is to get the radiator cap the highest part of the cooling system then burp the system by squeezing the upper radiator hose till the bubbles stop coming out the radiator opening as you put small amounts back in. Then when you think its good rev it with the cap off still to suck the coolant down and fill some more then put the cap back on still under rev. Can be done by yourself but easier the first time or three with another set of hands. I've had good luck with it when I was a forklift tech, personal rigs and doing side jobs.


I just spent the last hour almost trying to bleed the system. Kept going until I couldn't burp anymore air out, still over heating.

I still have no heat coming out of the heater core, still blows cold. I have no idea what could be wrong here...

When I let the Jeep run during the bleed, the temp gauge stayed in the middle, until I put the rad cap back on, then it started to heat up and eventually go into the red.

So are we under the impression that the core is blocked and coolant isn't even getting into the engine? Keep in mind none of these issue existed until I noticed my water pump was spewing water.

[Schoobs]

Welcome Cody. You are not alone up there. We have two other members in Calgary, JEMSSEN and Pookapotamus. Both nice and knowledgable guys. If you have any rust at all in the system it probably means you have a plugged heater core. It is possible to not have heat if the coolant is low in the engine, but you would notice that as low coolant levels in the radiator. The 2.5 does not have the same issues as the 4.0 with the closed system. That started in 87. I think it would be wise to start with a flush and try to get some coolant to go in reverse through the heater core. Do your dash controls work properly for the HVAC?

Hello and thanks for the greetings.

I just did a bleed of the air system, until I couldn't get anymore air out and the rad was full, took almost 8L of coolant (2 jugs). Since I've had the Jeep (last few months) the heat and cool always worked, but it would always come out the top of the dash only, not matter what setting I had it on.

I DID accidentally snap one of the many hoses on my vacuum canister, the real small hose on top of the tank, attached to a little round cap on top of the canister.

I am hopelessly frustrated here and don't know how much more money I want to sink into this beater. :sad0147:

How exactly do I test if the heater core is busted now?

[4.3LXJ]

Heater cores get plugged easily due to the size of the tubes. Take the hose that goes into the water pump and attach it to a garden hose. Take the other hose loose and turn on the faucet. That should force some of the rust and guck out and reestablish at least some flow

[89limited_hero]

I second the blocked/plugged heater core.

[Schoobs]

Heater cores get plugged easily due to the size of the tubes. Take the hose that goes into the water pump and attach it to a garden hose. Take the other hose loose and turn on the faucet. That should force some of the rust and guck out and reestablish at least some flow

Forgive me as I am a bit of a rookie, but help me understand which hose.

The hose that goes from the top of the rad into the water pump? I had made sure these were clean when I replaced the pump on Saturday, but I can try again. So send water from the faucet, through the hose into the water pump??

Again, forgive me for am pretty rookie at this car stuff.

Thanks for all the help everyone, I am losing my mind and every other Jeep forum I get no replys at all.

[4.3LXJ]

No, the hose from the fire wall that goes to the pump. That is the discharge side. By reversing the flow under pressure you will probably dislodge a lot of crud and establish at least partial flow again. Allow the discharge to escape by taking the other hose that goes to the head loose too

[Schoobs]

No, the hose from the fire wall that goes to the pump. That is the discharge side. By reversing the flow under pressure you will probably dislodge a lot of crud and establish at least partial flow again. Allow the discharge to escape by taking the other hose that goes to the head loose too

Just watched a quick video. Remove the hoses, send water through the back way into the heater core, so it flushes reverse. I will go attempt this and return with my results.

Again you guys rule, thanks.

[4.3LXJ]

Then flush the the entire system with a good flush, and repeat the process. Is your radiator shroud intact? Does the fan spin by hand easily with the engine off of course?

[Schoobs]

Then flush the the entire system with a good flush, and repeat the process. Is your radiator shroud intact? Does the fan spin by hand easily with the engine off of course?

Man I'm so poor and I just flushed the system hahaha. ****.

Anyways I took the hoses off, ran the faucet through it and it pushed out what just looked like my new coolant I threw in this morning, so I guess now reattach and do a flush?

I took the rad cap off for a moment, and it started pushing water back out through the unattached hose, between the core and the engine. Should I not take the cap off for this process or should I? Also can I do this flush with water or should I go buy more coolant again?

[Schoobs]

Yes the shroud is on, and it doesn't spin freely, nor does it not spin, there's a little resistance when I spin by hand which I understand is correct. Ive read it could also be the fan clutch...

[4.3LXJ]

Sounds like you didn't take both hoses off. But it does sound like you have some flow. Try it again, if no heat the blend door probably is not working

[Schoobs]

Sounds like you didn't take both hoses off. But it does sound like you have some flow. Try it again, if no heat the blend door probably is not working

I took both hoses off the heatercore on the fire wall then did the flush from the back side in and it came out the entrance port no problem.

Just finished the flush and top off, letting it run with the cap off, so far its sitting at middle on the gauge but still no heat coming in the Jeep. I'm almost certain when I put the rad cap on, it will over heat again.

[Schoobs]

Topped it up, put the cap on... Still getting hot. Revved it up to 3000 RPM, for a few moments the temp almost made it back down to half but as I kept holding the accelerator, the temp crawled back to red.

[Schoobs]

I also fed coolant through the heatcore hose, and it proceeded to make it through the coolant system and came out the other hose... So I don't know whats up. I don't have white smoke out the exhaust or nothing either... Still no heat in the cab... :( Can't seem to get anymore coolant in, she's as topped as I can get her.

[Pookapotamus]

What part of the city are you in Cody?


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[Schoobs]

What part of the city are you in Cody?


Sent from my iPhone using TapatalkHey Pooka, I'm in Sundance. Y'all will think I'm crazy but I'm slowly venturing to Montgomery to have my guys look at it. Fluctuating from below red to in red. I know, I'm silly.

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[Schoobs]

When I take the oil cap off the oil inlet on the head (right after driving) there is a little smoke of course. Perhaps my engine isn't venting properly and is gunked up with old oil or something? I bought it about 3/4 months ago after it had be sitting for a few years.

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[Pookapotamus]

I am in riverbend, if you are limping it to Montgomery let us know how it goes, I don't have experience with the 2.5, but I was a mechanic and can help you out.


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[Schoobs]

I am in riverbend, if you are limping it to Montgomery let us know how it goes, I don't have experience with the 2.5, but I was a mechanic and can help you out.


Sent from my iPhone using TapatalkAwesome that's pretty close and very appreciated thanks! I'm on pit stop #3, about 5 minutes from my destination. Might ride home without the stat in just for shits.

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[Pookapotamus]

Do us a favour and post a pic of your engine bay, maybe we can spot something. And pics in general are good!


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[Schoobs]

I'm pretty certain it's the head gasket. We bypassed the heater core, bled it as much as we could, checked both my thermostats. I don't appear to be losing coolant.

It's running better at idle, around half on the temp gauge, but we took it for a spin and within a few minutes she was hot and the coolant overflow was making popcorn. I'm assuming that's pressure leaking through the head gasket into the coolant system.

I took a brief video tonight I'll upload it and share in the morning.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170830/8912648e76fec03d430237bd08f61b35.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170830/9722464eb12a7938e8d840648e0ad7fd.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170830/44ba2baff34e75bc286f99d92a8d6783.jpg

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[Pookapotamus]

Ok first thing first, go to a car wash! Make sure the rad is clean.

If you are not loosing coolant the head gasket should be fine. When you drove last did you have coolant or just water?

You also said it was not blowing smoke so that says the head gasket should be good too.

What is your schedule like I would have to see it to really diagnose.


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[Pookapotamus]

If I remember correctly, I think the 2.5's did have head gasket issues, so let's not rule that out yet.


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[Schoobs]

Hey guys. I've ultimately decided to sell it and drive my van again. Thank you for all the help.

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[Pookapotamus]

Awwwwwe


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[Schoobs]

Awwwwwe


Sent from my iPhone using TapatalkYou can still come look sometime if you want but I don't wanna sink anymore money into it. I'd rather save for a 4L too.

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[Pookapotamus]

Ya 4.0L is much better. Keep checking kijiji on will come up


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