mkawski
12-14-2016, 08:22 PM
Hey again everyone,
So my 1985 2.5L XJ has been sitting for 2 months, since I had problems with it hard starting and eventually wires smoking, been working on electrical wiring. It's a junkshow lots of replaced wiring.
It is manual, 4 cylinder, 4x4, 2.5L, 1985, carbureted...
I replaced the wires (butt end connectors and some soldering), fixed it all back up, then today I couldn't get it to start. It did sound like it was turning over, but not getting fuel maybe? Spraying some carb cleaner into the carb gave it an extra rumble and it sounded like it was going to start, but then didn't.
Here are my thoughts, looking for suggestions on possible symptoms / how to test each of these:
-starter relay?
-the relay where wires were melting before: the anti-diesel timer delay relay
-distributor (will check tomorrow to see if there is any visible damage)
I know usually the main non-start questions are: is there spark? is there fuel? I'm pretty sure there is spark but I will double check tomorrow.. as for "is there fuel" how do you check that? (it uses a mechanical fuel pump)
Here is the work I did recently (Not sure how much of it was necessary):
-replaced wires going to the starter solenoid, including some fusible links
-replaced some wires that had melted, going to the anti-dieseling timer delay relay
-new starter cable (going from starter solenoid to starter itself)
-new starter solenoid
-new mechanical fuel pump (as far as I heard, this DOESN'T need to be bled, is that right? could it just be air in the system preventing fuel from getting to the carb?)
-some wiring on the drivers side of the air cleaner for some kind of vacuum assembly
-found an exposed wire in an aftermarket trailer hitch wiring that could have been hitting frame and grounding out, so I cut off the entire trailer hitch and closed off the spliced ends back to original wiring to the taillight
-replaced some fuses that were broken, or possibly broke as I removed them to check, none were burned out though
It has always been pretty hard to start, except for immediately after I replaced the cylinder head/head gasket back in August. Right before the smoking wires started, I had test drove it up to Flagstaff, and noticed that it was often sputtering when starting and would die out unless you got moving and gave it a lot of gas.
More details on previous issues here: http://www.cherokeeforum.com/f2/electrical-problems-hard-starting-fuel-pump-sputtering-out-tons-problems-230512/#post3322479
I got a multimeter but honestly could not figure out how to test relays, solenoids, etc to see if they were working. any advice on that would help.. ie do you test with battery connected? how can you test a relay if it isn't labeled (too old/worn out) and is no longer sold anywhere/not sure which pin is what.
Also a long time ago I was putting on the transmission bell housing cover plate and had to remove the starter, and noticed it was a Ford starter with a spacer plate (which made it incredibly difficult to put back in). I would rather not take it out to check the teeth etc unless last resort, but this could affect it too...
So my 1985 2.5L XJ has been sitting for 2 months, since I had problems with it hard starting and eventually wires smoking, been working on electrical wiring. It's a junkshow lots of replaced wiring.
It is manual, 4 cylinder, 4x4, 2.5L, 1985, carbureted...
I replaced the wires (butt end connectors and some soldering), fixed it all back up, then today I couldn't get it to start. It did sound like it was turning over, but not getting fuel maybe? Spraying some carb cleaner into the carb gave it an extra rumble and it sounded like it was going to start, but then didn't.
Here are my thoughts, looking for suggestions on possible symptoms / how to test each of these:
-starter relay?
-the relay where wires were melting before: the anti-diesel timer delay relay
-distributor (will check tomorrow to see if there is any visible damage)
I know usually the main non-start questions are: is there spark? is there fuel? I'm pretty sure there is spark but I will double check tomorrow.. as for "is there fuel" how do you check that? (it uses a mechanical fuel pump)
Here is the work I did recently (Not sure how much of it was necessary):
-replaced wires going to the starter solenoid, including some fusible links
-replaced some wires that had melted, going to the anti-dieseling timer delay relay
-new starter cable (going from starter solenoid to starter itself)
-new starter solenoid
-new mechanical fuel pump (as far as I heard, this DOESN'T need to be bled, is that right? could it just be air in the system preventing fuel from getting to the carb?)
-some wiring on the drivers side of the air cleaner for some kind of vacuum assembly
-found an exposed wire in an aftermarket trailer hitch wiring that could have been hitting frame and grounding out, so I cut off the entire trailer hitch and closed off the spliced ends back to original wiring to the taillight
-replaced some fuses that were broken, or possibly broke as I removed them to check, none were burned out though
It has always been pretty hard to start, except for immediately after I replaced the cylinder head/head gasket back in August. Right before the smoking wires started, I had test drove it up to Flagstaff, and noticed that it was often sputtering when starting and would die out unless you got moving and gave it a lot of gas.
More details on previous issues here: http://www.cherokeeforum.com/f2/electrical-problems-hard-starting-fuel-pump-sputtering-out-tons-problems-230512/#post3322479
I got a multimeter but honestly could not figure out how to test relays, solenoids, etc to see if they were working. any advice on that would help.. ie do you test with battery connected? how can you test a relay if it isn't labeled (too old/worn out) and is no longer sold anywhere/not sure which pin is what.
Also a long time ago I was putting on the transmission bell housing cover plate and had to remove the starter, and noticed it was a Ford starter with a spacer plate (which made it incredibly difficult to put back in). I would rather not take it out to check the teeth etc unless last resort, but this could affect it too...