Dana 30 truss ,whos done what

[cantab27]

so anyone done anything ...a few good products on the market ....im starting out with a fresh straight d30 housing and what to keep it that way ....

9973

you can see the bend one of ......:D

[cantab27]

am unable to replace ball joints as worn out , pressed in mine drop in plus this ....................


9974


wheel on a angle ........

so new one I wanna keep straight ........rough roads down here ...;)

[4.3LXJ]

I haven't personally done it, but one thing is to brace the Cs. Find some metal, cheap to do if you have a welder handy

[cantab27]

might just get something like this .......

http://www.artecindustries.com/Front-Axle-Truss-for-TJ-LJ-ZJ_p_334.html


now the welding to housing has to be done in such away to prevent housing over heating and warping /bending from what I've read so far..

I have to do this if im keeping the d30 which I am...............;)

[4.3LXJ]

That is definitely more iron

[cantab27]

9975


with that plus the chrome Mollie axles plus the ox in there bout as strong as I can make the little turd

[4.3LXJ]

When do you pull the trigger on that?

[cantab27]

9976


chasing a d30 now ......will have look at mates one ..brought xj back ..

[4.3LXJ]

Maybe the D30 will find a new home :D

[4.3LXJ]

Hey mate, I was thinking ........ dangerous I know

Have you thought about slipping another piece of DOM tubing inside that one. I have done that to a D44. Eventually bent it, but that is a story for around the campfire. The tube in it is DOM, so no seam inside. Might be better in some ways than what you are doing. Be sure to join the top of that truss with a stout piece of steel

[XJ Wheeler]

I was thinking of you sleeving but with the bend that close to the pumpkin I doubt it would help much. That truss looks like it lacks the bit to connect each side, and looks heavy. I'd go for one that actually connects both sides together so it spreads the load more and has more attachment points across the whole axle. Just my two cents.

Sent via messenger pigeon. I talk, he types.

[xj-jake]

Here ya go Wayne,

D30 Sleeve Kit

http://www.ironrockoffroad.com/10131.html

D30 Over Axle Truss

http://www.ironrockoffroad.com/10133.html

D30 Inner C Gussets

http://www.ironrockoffroad.com/10129.html

[cantab27]

I like that ,,I like that a lot ...sleeve kit .....mmmmm....thanks

[Mudderoy]

Here ya go Wayne,

D30 Sleeve Kit

http://www.ironrockoffroad.com/10131.html

D30 Over Axle Truss

http://www.ironrockoffroad.com/10133.html

D30 Inner C Gussets

http://www.ironrockoffroad.com/10129.html

I'm going to have to sit here thinking about baseball for 5 minutes before I get up. :patriot:

[denverd1]

Tony lol!! sleeve kit looks good. Too much $$ for the IRO kit.

I don't think sleeving a bent axle is a good move. I like the Artec truss kit, leaves options open on bracing the top. I won't run a UCA over there eventually so I'd just throw more steel on top. And I save $250. Gussets for sure

damn it. thought I had a short term plan for my D30. Thinking I'll do a lot of this at once and be done with it

[cantab27]

got a straight one coming ...tj d30 different to xj d30 so had to shop round .....will be here in new year then the fun begins ...........

[denverd1]

can't we use d44 ujoints as well?

[cantab27]

I would like a 44 under the front but here in nz she be like rocking horse teeth to find......many are putting Nissan safari diffs under there jeeps .....big ass things , then ya gotta run 40t to get same clearance as 35s ......and still brake things ..me im keeping mine all jeep ...yes I do get stick about it ...will post a pic of safari one later

[denverd1]

you can put 44 C's on a 30. then run all 44 stuff including inners, but they have to be made. ran across a thread on it the other day, but the custom stuff might not make it feasible

[cantab27]

find that link lol

[cantab27]

10018



also running ford falcon turbo engine.................. :indifferent0020:

but not in that pic ,that's old ..............

[oderdene]

find that link lol


here is some d30/d44 hybrid axle info

http://billavista.com/tech/Articles/Dana_30-Dana_44_Hybrid_Front_Axle/index.html

[07Negative]

I built mine. Can you only use phototbucket still to upload pix on here?

[07Negative]

http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c159/07Negative/IMG_5677.jpg (http://s27.photobucket.com/user/07Negative/media/IMG_5677.jpg.html)

http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c159/07Negative/IMG_5575.jpg (http://s27.photobucket.com/user/07Negative/media/IMG_5575.jpg.html)

http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c159/07Negative/IMG_5576.jpg (http://s27.photobucket.com/user/07Negative/media/IMG_5576.jpg.html)

[07Negative]

I used TNT Customs truss & their brackets. But I did the Dana 44 outters, using Reid racing knuckles. So I enddd up doing a Ford & Chevy brake & hub setup. With Warn locking hubs. Got rid of those trouble some U joints for RCV shafts. Detroit locker & 4.88's round out the axle. Ditched the really piss poor T system steering for cross over. Got tubing locally and used EMF heim joints. I'll eventually get a Anti Rock sway bar.

[denverd1]

here is some d30/d44 hybrid axle info

http://billavista.com/tech/Articles/Dana_30-Dana_44_Hybrid_Front_Axle/index.html

thats the one!

[denverd1]

here's the gist of it:

1) Remove the XJ's steering knuckles, and replace with early Chevy 1/2 ton 4x4 (K10) open knuckle Dana 44 parts - this would give me locking hubs and the basis for high clearance steering

2) Build my own high clearance steering linkage from DOM tubing and parts sourced from the local race shop.

The issues with this plan are:

1) You can't just bolt the D44 parts to the XJs knuckle yokes. You first have to cut off the XJ's knuckle yokes and replace them with a knuckle yoke that will accept the Dana 44 steering knuckle and balljoints. Luckily, a CJ Dana 30's knuckle yokes will both fit on the XJ tubes, and take the D44 balljoints.

2) BUT - the "throw" of the CJ knuckle yokes is different so custom length inner shafts are needed.

3) A custom seal will be required on the inside of the passenger side of the diff, as the stock seal is in the disconnect housing and will not work (too large - the original disco shaft is HUGE at this point)

Read on to see how I overcome all this and more!

[4.3LXJ]

I will be looking at that as I work on my own 44 front. PS, you might as well go to 30 spline inner shafts while you are at it. You should also be able to solve your inner seal problem with a regular inner seal in the proper place at the inner end of the tube

[denverd1]

steve what tires are you going to? can't run 31s anymore!!

I'm planning to sleeve it, gusset C's and lock it. when I break it, I'll figure something else out.

[4.3LXJ]

I am going to 37s. I have 4.88 gears ordered

[denverd1]

woohoo!!! [emoji123] [emoji106] Solid Steve!

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk

[denverd1]

Can I weld the C's without preheating? trying to leave seals alone but have 2 extra if they get hot

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk

[4.3LXJ]

I think you can. I don't think they do that at the Dana factory.

[denverd1]

Axle is cleaned up and ready to sleeve. Will press ball joints tomorrow then get started putting it back together. Drilled plug weld holes for the sleeves, still got metal shavings in the tubes
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170113/66eb8991cd38ce2a9d3ec64c808d3a36.jpg


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[cantab27]

nice .....still waiting on mine to get here ...................

[denverd1]

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170114/586276103de38b6bebde0ecbaaa0857b.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170114/8b17da94841a5d55e173b4f7351d0b3c.jpg
Sleeves look good. Fit perfectly. Gonna get started on those tomorrow.

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[denverd1]

These are the IRO C gussets. they fit into the C instead of lay on the front and back faces. Not sure I'm digging them
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170114/69ad9f26d54357f4940910fc44b71814.jpg

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[denverd1]

think I'll send these back. Not like I'm bouncing this thing. Won't be a big deal to add later the one I'm looking for

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[WormsJeep]

http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c159/07Negative/IMG_5677.jpg (http://s27.photobucket.com/user/07Negative/media/IMG_5677.jpg.html)

http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c159/07Negative/IMG_5575.jpg (http://s27.photobucket.com/user/07Negative/media/IMG_5575.jpg.html)

http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c159/07Negative/IMG_5576.jpg (http://s27.photobucket.com/user/07Negative/media/IMG_5576.jpg.html)

That's a clean looking Xj you have there. I like your steering you have there.

[cantab27]

this turned up today ..........................best place to order sleave kit team....



10070

[denverd1]

Iron Rock Offroad

[denverd1]

damn.... got a line on 5x4.5 pattern 16.5 beadlocks..... this is bad news for my 30

[4.3LXJ]

Those by any chance Hummer wheels. Tire selection will be limited

[denverd1]

Those by any chance Hummer wheels. Tire selection will be limited

they are. found a few 35s but they're obviously built for bigger tires. trying to talk myself out of them

[4.3LXJ]

HOW LOUD DO I HAVE TO SHOUT TO DO THAT?

Any tires you get are probably load range E and will not conform well to terrain

[denverd1]

HOW LOUD DO I HAVE TO SHOUT TO DO THAT?

Any tires you get are probably load range E and will not conform well to terrain

I hear ya bud. Good price, yada yada. Won't mention them again! I'll even delete the guys #.

[4.3LXJ]

You won't be sorry. I don't recommend getting anything stouter than load range C. I have noticed that my BFGs which have a softer sidewall get much better traction than my stiff swampers, even though those are bias ply and theoretically should do better

[denverd1]

You won't be sorry. I don't recommend getting anything stouter than load range C. I have noticed that my BFGs which have a softer sidewall get much better traction than my stiff swampers, even though those are bias ply and theoretically should do better

Whats your favorite tire? what 37s will go on it?

[4.3LXJ]

Whats your favorite tire? what 37s will go on it?

My favorite so far is KM2s. Not cheap, not too noisy, good highway manners and great traction off road. The tire flexes well too. However I won't be getting them. I have 15" rims I will be using and will be stuck with Toyos. Not many tires left for 15" rims over 31". Toyos have a firm rubber in the tread. Great tread life, but not as good off road. I will compensate by having them siped

[denverd1]

are LP D44 terrible? found a housing for a good price. I realize the internals aren't cheap tho.
http://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/KcYAAOSwnHZYXDfy/s-l500.jpg
would need a little fab, but all there. passenger disconnect, but I'd solid inner that side

[denverd1]

My favorite so far is KM2s. Not cheap, not too noisy, good highway manners and great traction off road. The tire flexes well too. However I won't be getting them. I have 15" rims I will be using and will be stuck with Toyos. Not many tires left for 15" rims over 31". Toyos have a firm rubber in the tread. Great tread life, but not as good off road. I will compensate by having them siped

17" seems to be the new rim size for options, big brakes, etc.

[4.3LXJ]

are LP D44 terrible? found a housing for a good price. I realize the internals aren't cheap tho.
http://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/KcYAAOSwnHZYXDfy/s-l500.jpg
would need a little fab, but all there. passenger disconnect, but I'd solid inner that side

That housing must be from a JK. It has D44 casting with D30 outers. There is a huge difference in the outers of a real D44 and the D30. For instance the ball joints are in the knuckle instead of the C and have about twice the shear strength. Upper joint is full ball instead of ball inside a tube etc. Cs have a huge difference too. I would stay away from this one.