Custom Switch Box

[Mudderoy]

I've asked about this before, but we have a bunch of new users since then...

I have decided I'm going to build a custom switch box to mount on the roof of my XJ.

I have seen that you can create a form, place some cloth over it, then "paint" it with some magic stuff to make it harden. I have seen some nice installations of square plastic boxes but I'd like to have something more custom, plus I'm thinking about a couple of rows of switches to keep the overall width of the box smaller.

Anyway has anyone build a custom formed box?

I need to stop thinking about it and just do it. My first step will be to buy a switch, or two, so I can have an idea of how big this box will need to be.

[kryptonitexj]

I really like the finch box. Check it out!!

[4.3LXJ]

Yes, I built one out of plastic and a similar box to hold gages in my Sammy, but nothing for outdoor use. You can use cloth and fiberglass resin, or casting resin if you want. You can get real fancy and cast your switch and wires in the casting resin inside a mold for the coffee table effect.

[2000XJ]

I'm a big fan of the ARB-like switches. I think they look great, and really look "factory" once their installed.

[4.3LXJ]

Those switches are made by Carling and can be gotten at any NAPA store

[Mudderoy]

Those switches are made by Carling and can be gotten at any NAPA store

Great! I was trying to order one today and their paypal link failed. I'm hoping these are the same switches that have the icons and lables on them.

[BlueXJ]

Am I understanding correctly these are to be mounted in the overhead area and not outside in the weather. Why do they need to be water tight if mounted inside? Have you looked at the Finchva boxes yet? They seem very professionally made.

[Mudderoy]

Am I understanding correctly these are to be mounted in the overhead area and not outside in the weather. Why do they need to be water tight if mounted inside? Have you looked at the Finchva boxes yet? They seem very professionally made.

Well I said I was going to mount them on the roof, I didn't say on the inside, but I figured people would think inside.

Yep, seems like I've looked at them before but they were not what I was looking for. I tried looking it up again to make sure I wasn't remembering wrong, but all I found was lots and lots of sites about BIRDS! :rotfl2:

[BlueXJ]

Try this Muddy http://fitchva.com/jeep/?p=39

[Mudderoy]

Try this Muddy http://fitchva.com/jeep/?p=39

Yeah, I remember it now. No what I am looking to do doesn't look like a retangular box cut up and stuck to the roof of the vehicle.

I need to draw it out and put it up here so people will understand.

I'm thinking of something that has curved corners, and instead of the switches being near vertical more of a horizontal mounting. The switchbox would be mounted further back so the driver's (or passenger's) hand would be just under the switch panel naturally. Also I'm trying to leave the area in between the visors open for a scanner (someday).

[BlueXJ]

Yeah a pic or drawing would help to understand what you have in mind.

[DETOURS]

Napkin sketch...........:rotfl2:

[xjjeepthing]

I love my Fitch box.
http://i149.photobucket.com/albums/s44/xjjeepthing/My%20jeep/Picture079.jpg
http://i149.photobucket.com/albums/s44/xjjeepthing/My%20jeep/8029.jpg
http://i149.photobucket.com/albums/s44/xjjeepthing/My%20jeep/2d26.jpg

[_StationWagon_]

Pics of my new switch box installed this summer. I prefer it there rather than the "ceiling" since I have a full length overhead console. There's room for 1 more switch, I just need to decide what to wire it to.

What the area looked like before. Notice the ugly installation of the switch for my electric locker right next to the steering column. The location & appearance always bothered me ... because I'm like Monk

http://usera.ImageCave.com/cherokeegrrl/IMG_2092.JPG

Then I had my rear bumper lights wired, & we swapped out the little panel & put a factory switch in that location, & wired the bumper lights. Much better!

http://usera.ImageCave.com/cherokeegrrl/int.jpg

And now I actually have a location for the other "alike" switches: front locker, roof mounted KC's & another pair of roof mounted lights. Maybe I'll wire the 4th switch to a rear back-up/auxiliary light on the roof basket. Because the bumper lights are useless for seeing when backing up.

http://usera.ImageCave.com/cherokeegrrl/Just_My_XJ/switches.jpg

[Mudderoy]

Thanks for the help guys.

Basically what I am looking to do is have something that "looks" OEM but isn't. Something that looks like the overhead dome light already in the Jeep.

It dawned on me that maybe that's what I need to do, just get another of the dome lights. I went on to ebay today and found one for $25, yeah I know pricey.

So I'm going to try and remove the lenses and lights. Build up that section with fiberglass then measure, mark and cut out places for switches.

I think I can get two rows of switches on it, for a total of 8 to 10 switches.

1. Rock Crawling Lights
2. off road lights (Inner)
3. off road lights (Outter)
4. efan override
5. air compressor
6. Strobes
7. Winch on
8. Winch extend/retract
9. ARB front locker
10. ARB rear locker

I have found some switches I like (they look like the ARB switches) but at $10 to $12 each I'm looking at $100+ for stinking switches!

[BlueXJ]

I have an overhead console and have run the wires for a switchbox to be installed in the section where the garage door opener was supposed to go. That still leaves me with the sunglasses opening in that console. I am thinking it will hold about 8 switches. The pre wireing I did while the headliner was going in and consists of tickle wiring for relays and a shared hot wire. Then all the higher amp stuff is in a more accessible area(read firewall) and I can decide what needs to be wired into those switches at a later time.
current plans are for 2 banks of overhead roof rack mounted lights and a set of roof mounted backup lights. I want some rockcrawler lights eventually and a switch for the Viair compressor and a switch for the power inverter to run a laptop or whatever.

[Silly Willy]

I have seen that you can create a form, place some cloth over it, then "paint" it with some magic stuff to make it harden. I have seen some nice installations of square plastic boxes but I'd like to have something more custom, plus I'm thinking about a couple of rows of switches to keep the overall width of the box smaller.

Anyway has anyone build a custom formed box?

I need to stop thinking about it and just do it. My first step will be to buy a switch, or two, so I can have an idea of how big this box will need to be.

Wouldn't that be using resin and fiberglass. Its not that hard to do. Or just make one out of metal. 18gage usually works pretty well, then bondo and paint. looks like it was ment to be there. ;)

[BlueXJ]

Wouldn't that be using resin and fiberglass. Its not that hard to do. Or just make one out of metal. 18gage usually works pretty well, then bondo and paint. looks like it was ment to be there. ;)

Do you have an eample for Muddy to look at?

[Mudderoy]

Wouldn't that be using resin and fiberglass. Its not that hard to do. Or just make one out of metal. 18gage usually works pretty well, then bondo and paint. looks like it was ment to be there. ;)

I can't get the curves I want out of metal, well at least not without a multi ton press and a heavy metal form to press it into.

Besides plastic is easier on the head when you bang into it. :smiley-laughing021:

[BlueXJ]

Curves are fun and I like the soft ones too!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[Silly Willy]

Do you have an eample for Muddy to look at?

I personally don't have any examples I never have a camera when I am working with the stuff. Basically you would make it look somewhat what you want it to, with wood, cardboard, metal, plastic, etc. strech some fabric/cloth over it, spread resin over it, let it dry, start laying fiberglass over it, sand it to look as you like it to. then paint it, bed liner it, streach more fabric over it, etc.

here is a link that explains how to an extent. http://www.explorerforum.com/fiberglass/fiberglassing.htm

[Mudderoy]

I personally don't have any examples I never have a camera when I am working with the stuff. Basically you would make it look somewhat what you want it to, with wood, cardboard, metal, plastic, etc. strech some fabric/cloth over it, spread resin over it, let it dry, start laying fiberglass over it, sand it to look as you like it to. then paint it, bed liner it, streach more fabric over it, etc.

here is a link that explains how to an extent. http://www.explorerforum.com/fiberglass/fiberglassing.htm

I saw a guy on powerblock do a speaker enclosure like that. I'm going to try doing that on the overhead dome light I just ordered. Take out the lenses and cover sand and paint. I'll have some pictures up soon.

[Mudderoy]

Here is a picture of the overhead dome light I have coming in.

http://xjtalk.com/images/special/domelight.jpg

So I'll know more after I get it and sit, look and think about it, but right now I'm just planing on replacing the lens with fiberglass. It should be a good platform for a bunch of switches. They'll be in line with the roof.

I'm going to place it a few inches in front of the current overhead dome light.

I may place it between the visors, but I'm trying to leave that space open for a scanner.

[Mudderoy]

BTW, if anyone knows of a source for the ARB style switches please let me know. I've only seen then for $10 to $12.

[BlueXJ]

Try this guy Tony..............http://www.12voltguy.com/web/

I have purchased stuff from him in the past and he has some hard to find stuff.

[4.3LXJ]

BTW, if anyone knows of a source for the ARB style switches please let me know. I've only seen then for $10 to $12.

Those are good switches. You will get what you pay for.

[Mudderoy]

Try this guy Tony..............http://www.12voltguy.com/web/

I have purchased stuff from him in the past and he has some hard to find stuff.

Thanks, yeah I've seen his stuff before. Great if you have a stock car. Although I do like that winch control. Same problem as before, finding a place to put it. That's why I wanted to mount something on the roof (inside) :rotfl2:

[Mudderoy]

Switches came in today

Here are the 3 switches I ordered with the OEM over head light I got from ebay.

http://xjtalk.com/images/special/jeepswitchbox1.jpg

Here is my crude interpertation of how the switches will look mounted.
http://xjtalk.com/images/special/jeepswitchbox.jpg

This means I have to remove the lens and then fill the hole. I still have to figure a way to mount it to the roof (ceiling) of the XJ but I think I'll have a nice easy to reach and somewhat factory looking switchbox.

Right now I am thinking about painting it with the bedliner in a can to give it a rubbery feel. I'm not sure if I will leave it black or paint over it with a light gray.

Switches are from http://www.oly4x4.com/

[xjjeepthing]

Kool Idea. Me likey

[XJcoupe]

Switches came in today

Here are the 3 switches I ordered with the OEM over head light I got from ebay.

http://xjtalk.com/images/special/jeepswitchbox1.jpg

Here is my crude interpertation of how the switches will look mounted.
http://xjtalk.com/images/special/jeepswitchbox.jpg

This means I have to remove the lens and then fill the hole. I still have to figure a way to mount it to the roof (ceiling) of the XJ but I think I'll have a nice easy to reach and somewhat factory looking switchbox.

Right now I am thinking about painting it with the bedliner in a can to give it a rubbery feel. I'm not sure if I will leave it black or paint over it with a light gray.

cool idea for all them switches in 1 area, but have to ask- where you mounting all the relays for them ?

[Mudderoy]

cool idea for all them switches in 1 area, but have to ask- where you mounting all the relays for them ?

Well the rock lights are LEDs and don't need relays.
The off road (KC) lights already have relays.
Anything else will either be under the dash or near the item that is being switched.

The switches are rated 16 amps at 12 vdc. I just don't want to run any large wires to the switch box, so everything will to a relay with 18 or 22 gauge wire.

[XJcoupe]

any update or progress muddy; I just picked up a full overhead console from a mid 90s WJ and are looking for ideas to mount some new switches.

[flippedXJ]

I understand what you are talking about I have a panel like that in my suburban only it is farther forward then you are talking - mine is stairstepped and has 2 rows of switches

I didnt read all the posts but if you are any good at fiberglass at all then you can make a template out of cardboard then overlay glass on it to get the curvy shape you want

[Mudderoy]

I've been trying to clear a spot on the bench. Also other things I need to do. I've been thinking about it a lot though. :smiley-laughing021:

[cpttuna]

I mess around with stainless. there are two places where I purchase it scrap. I often go "looking" even when I don't have any pressing need for any metal. You might also go looking if you have a place like this nearby. I have been truely amazed at what people fabricate then throw away.

[Mudderoy]

Has anyone done fiberglass? I don't know if it is going to stick to the over head light console that I bought or if it will wind up acting as a mold.

I guess the mold thing would be fine, but I think I'd have to put a lot of layers so it would be thick enough to be sturdy.

[x2elite]

I have done fiberglass, and if you lay it directly on there it will stick! If you want to just use it as a mold, then wrap it in aluminum foil first, then lay your glass, and then pop out the original plastic piece. LOL As far as all those switches, it looks like that much wire running up to it, is going to cause a serious bulge in your headliner. What can you possibly need that many switches for?

[Mudderoy]

I have done fiberglass, and if you lay it directly on there it will stick! If you want to just use it as a mold, then wrap it in aluminum foil first, then lay your glass, and then pop out the original plastic piece. LOL As far as all those switches, it looks like that much wire running up to it, is going to cause a serious bulge in your headliner. What can you possibly need that many switches for?

Thanks. I was thinking about using it as a mold in case I wanted to make more.

Well I think that bulge would be huge if I was going to use heavy gauge wire. I plan on putting everything on relays so I can use 18 or 22 gauge wire. That way I can use CAT 5 cable. I'm thinking that a single cable could handle 7 switches.

Well lets see...

KC lights outer
KC lights inner
Rock Crawling lights
ARB front
ARB rear
Compressor
Winch power
Winch in/out
Electric fan power on bypass
Shock and Awe (Enable KC lights, rock lights, Air Horn and brights to all come on when I hit the BRIGHTS) :rotfl2:

Hopefully I will really be able to get 12 switches in there. They would give me a couple of spare switches.

[4.3LXJ]

Also if you don't want fiberglass to stick to a surface, you can use gel coat. That is how the professionals do it.

[XJ4IV]

I've asked about this before, but we have a bunch of new users since then...

I have decided I'm going to build a custom switch box to mount on the roof of my XJ.

I have seen that you can create a form, place some cloth over it, then "paint" it with some magic stuff to make it harden. I have seen some nice installations of square plastic boxes but I'd like to have something more custom, plus I'm thinking about a couple of rows of switches to keep the overall width of the box smaller.

Anyway has anyone build a custom formed box?

I need to stop thinking about it and just do it. My first step will be to buy a switch, or two, so I can have an idea of how big this box will need to be.

this wonderful thing you coat the fabric with is called fiberglass resin...
I used to work in the car audio field and learned a few tricks on molding things for a factory look what you need to do is find the form you want then wrap it with Fleec then coat it with several coats of resin when finished it can be painted like auto paint I though about doing that with my tj style soundbar but I got too anxious and built them from hardyboard and clothed them to match my custom headliner, now I can go doorless and not sacrifice my speakers

[Mudderoy]

this wonderful thing you coat the fabric with is called fiberglass resin...
I used to work in the car audio field and learned a few tricks on molding things for a factory look what you need to do is find the form you want then wrap it with Fleec then coat it with several coats of resin when finished it can be painted like auto paint I though about doing that with my tj style soundbar but I got too anxious and built them from hardyboard and clothed them to match my custom headliner, now I can go doorless and not sacrifice my speakers

Yep I got the idea after watching powerblock where an audio guy was making a custom speaker enclosure. :thumbsup:

[flippedXJ]

ya suprisingly fiberglass is amazingly easy to work with its just real messy

[W.O.R.P.Offroad]

always can build a fiberglass one and shpe it what ever way you want to

[Mudderoy]

Well I got out to the clean workbench and removed all the stuff that was on the inside of the console. I'm going to go get some cloth so I can fiberglass here in a little bit.

http://xjtalk.com/images/special/jeepswitchbox2.jpg

http://xjtalk.com/images/special/jeepswitchbox3.jpg

I'll bondo outside, and I'm thinking about bondo'ing the inside so it will be smooth where the light lenses were.

[Mudderoy]

So I covered the overhead console with fiberglass. Then placed the cloth over the console, and tacked it down to the bench...

http://xjtalk.com/images/special/jeepswitchbox4.jpg

I covered it in fiberglass and after it set I sanded it down and added bondo.
Kind of looks like frosting on a cake...

http://xjtalk.com/images/special/jeepswitchbox5.jpg

I sanded the bondo down until I could see the fiberglass color coming through so I decided to spray some black paint on it to see how it looks. Since I am using bed liner spray I was hoping it would mask and sanding marks, and it has done beautifully.

http://xjtalk.com/images/special/jeepswitchbox6.jpg

It isn't perfect but I think it is close enough. Next I will be spraying it gray to match the interior. After that cutting some rectangular holes and popping some switches in.

[rguignard]

looking good :thumbsup:

[W.O.R.P.Offroad]

thats a nice lookin box. what console was that

[xjjeepthing]

Thats pretty kool

[4.3LXJ]

Wow Muddy, with all that bondo experience you could hire out as a midnight body man. :rotfl2:

[Mudderoy]

thats a nice lookin box. what console was that

It's the factory 97+ (I'm assuming) over head console. Center light with two map lights. Also where the RKE is housed. It's identical to the one in my 1998. So basically I'll have two. One with lights and one with switches.

[Mudderoy]

Wow Muddy, with all that bondo experience you could hire out as a midnight body man. :rotfl2:

First time with fiberglass, and I think I did some bondo to my rear fenders of my 1972 Nova, but that was a very long time ago.

[prerunner1982]

Looks good.....

[Mudderoy]

Ok switchbox is finished, sort of. I need to get a different color gray, and I need to see if I can make what I have in my head actually work to attach the switchbox to the headliner.

Here is a quick photochopped image of the switchbox in my Jeep.

http://xjtalk.com/images/special/jeepswitchbox7.jpg

Everything is real, I just removed my hand holding the switchbox in position.

[XJ4IV]

Cool... I think you may have to cut a hefty size hole in yout headliner to accomodate tha wires for everything IFFFF you do that you can just toss a piece of MDF up in there and attach it to that somehow thats how those bigger screens are suspended in vehicles

[Mudderoy]

Cool... I think you may have to cut a hefty size hole in yout headliner to accomodate tha wires for everything IFFFF you do that you can just toss a piece of MDF up in there and attach it to that somehow thats how those bigger screens are suspended in vehicles

Actually my plans are to use a couple of pieces of CAT 5 and run all the high current stuff off of relays under the dash. As for mounting, I'm going to try to use a sheet of thin peg board some bolts (counter sunk) with a nut on the end. Glued in place. Then two brackets on the inside of the switch box that with a hole and slot. Push up and slide forward to lock into place. Kind of like the overhead console that is in there now. I hope to do all this with a very minor sized holes in the headliner. I will need to get all the measurements perfect for it to work, plus I may try to attach the peg board to rib near the front of the roof so it doesn't move when I try sliding on the switch panel.

Hopefully what I wind up with is something that looks factory-ish.

[XJ4IV]

Actually my plans are to use a couple of pieces of CAT 5 and run all the high current stuff off of relays under the dash. As for mounting, I'm going to try to use a sheet of thin peg board some bolts (counter sunk) with a nut on the end. Glued in place. Then two brackets on the inside of the switch box that with a hole and slot. Push up and slide forward to lock into place. Kind of like the overhead console that is in there now. I hope to do all this with a very minor sized holes in the headliner. I will need to get all the measurements perfect for it to work, plus I may try to attach the peg board to rib near the front of the roof so it doesn't move when I try sliding on the switch panel.

Hopefully what I wind up with is something that looks factory-ish.

Ok well good luck with that... lol post pics please

[Mudderoy]

Well I had to work most of the day Saturday, then went to a birthday party until 1am. I did get to the hardware store and pick up the stuff I think I need to mount the switch box.

Of course now I need 1 (or more) electrical connectors so I can quickly connect and disconnect all the switches. I guess I need to sit down and draw out the wiring diagram so I can get an idea what I need.

[flippedXJ]

Ok switchbox is finished, sort of. I need to get a different color gray, and I need to see if I can make what I have in my head actually work to attach the switchbox to the headliner.

Here is a quick photochopped image of the switchbox in my Jeep.

http://xjtalk.com/images/special/jeepswitchbox7.jpg

Everything is real, I just removed my hand holding the switchbox in position.

looks good lets get more pics

[Mudderoy]

Ok here it is mounted. I'm going to eat some lunch and then go try and run some wires from the switches to the rock lights, and front KC lights.

http://xjtalk.com/images/special/jeepswitchbox8.jpg

http://xjtalk.com/images/special/jeepswitchbox9.jpg

I'm going to have to try somewhere besides wal-mart for the gray paint. As you can see I still don't have it matched to the interior gray. :(

[Indiana Jeep]

Looks great!

[4.3LXJ]

That is a lot of holes to fill Muddy. You are going to need an operators manual for all that.

[Mudderoy]

Well I used CAT 5 cable to connect up three of the switches. I used a terminal strip from Radio Shack to tie the cable from the switch box to the 4 KC lights and the Red LED Rock Lights. I didn't get a chance to connect up the two new Red LED lights. So now I need to order some fillers for all the empty holes.

I think electric fan override and winch power and winch out/in will be next.

The switch box isn't perfect, but it turned out a lot better than I had hoped. :thumbsup:

[XJ4IV]

Fantastic Job man and the color matches close enough I would call it good and start with the less tedious things like wiring so You can show off your mad skills

[Mudderoy]

Fantastic Job man and the color matches close enough I would call it good and start with the less tedious things like wiring so You can show off your mad skills

Thanks for the kind words.

Well I ordered 4 switches last night.

Fans (for the electric fan override)
Winch Power
Winch In/Out
Air (for air compressor)

So I'll need to buy a few relays. I don't have an air compressor right now, but got the switch. All that is missing is the two ARB switches and "Shock and Awe". I'll need to get an air horn and do some thinking, testing, an drawing out the circuit for shock and awe though.

For those that didn't read the entire thread, Shock and Awe is my plan to get people's attention. You know the dumb a$$es in the fast lane talking on the cell phone? Basically I hit the high beam switch and the air horn blasts, both sets of KC lights come on, HIGH beams come on and the red LEDs come on.

With it triggered from the high beam level I should be able to tap the high beam lever and control just how much shock and awe I do. :D :patriot: :thumbsup:

[flippedXJ]

that turned out good muddy -

[Mudderoy]

Switches arrived!

http://xjtalk.com/images/special/jeepswitchbox10.jpg

Top Left to Right (Yes I really mean left)

1. Rock Crawling Lights
2. Outer KC Off road lights (Flood)
3. Inner KC Off road lights (Spot)
4. Winch spool in/out
5. Winch Power
6. Electric Fan(s) bypass on
7. Air compressor

Looks like I need to do some trimming on the switch holes. Not all the switches are lining up like I want. Also I picked up some insulated terminals. I went through a bunch of fuses getting the off road lights hooked up.

[XJ4IV]

Switches arrived!

http://xjtalk.com/images/special/jeepswitchbox10.jpg

Top Left to Right (Yes I really mean left)

1. Rock Crawling Lights
2. Outer KC Off road lights (Flood)
3. Inner KC Off road lights (Spot)
4. Winch spool in/out
5. Winch Power
6. Electric Fan(s) bypass on
7. Air compressor

Looks like I need to do some trimming on the switch holes. Not all the switches are lining up like I want. Also I picked up some insulated terminals. I went through a bunch of fuses getting the off road lights hooked up.

If your using regular fuses while doing wiring like that just take a single strand of speaker wire and wrap it in a figure eight around the posts that creates the same resistance as a 20 amp fuse... plus LOTS cheaper than replacing fuses every six minutes while doing some wiring!

[Mudderoy]

If your using regular fuses while doing wiring like that just take a single strand of speaker wire and wrap it in a figure eight around the posts that creates the same resistance as a 20 amp fuse... plus LOTS cheaper than replacing fuses every six minutes while doing some wiring!

Well I had two problems. One I thought I understood the wiring I was trying to do but I didn't and two I didn't get insulated connectors, so they would touch together occasionally. I have since picked up fully insulated connectors. Also I learned to remove the fuses until I got things connected, duh! lol

[4.3LXJ]

OOOO, sounds exciting. Do you do that with high voltage too? :smiley-gen165:

[Mudderoy]

OOOO, sounds exciting. Do you do that with high voltage too? :smiley-gen165:

No I think that's part of the problem. I'm really careful with anything that is 110 volts or higher. 12 volts, not so much. Now when the cable is 4 gauge I start to pay attention, like the ones on the winch.

[4.3LXJ]

I work with 110 without shutting it down, just handle it with insulated stuff. I don't seem to conduct electricity well. But three phase, nope. That stuff will knock you on your a$$

[Indiana Jeep]

"But three phase, nope. That stuff will knock you on your a$$"

Yep that would be a shocking experience. :smiley-laughing021::rotfl2::smiley-laughing021:

Sorry, you know someone had to say it. :headshake::boohoo:

[4.3LXJ]

I was working on some 207 three phase once and had a single stray wire touch the top of my head. Been dingy ever since. Or at least that is my excuse

[Mudderoy]

Well I picked up some additional parts to complete the wiring of all but one of the switches. I don't have an air compressor yet so that switch will just sit there and look pretty.

I need to make an electrical drawing on how I will be wiring up the switches. Turns out the best thing to do (perhaps the only really right thing to do) is to run a fused positive and negative to all the switches. Then you can either hook up positive switched relays or negative switched relays, and the LED "ON" indicators will all operate correctly.

[Silly Willy]

Well I picked up some additional parts to complete the wiring of all but one of the switches. I don't have an air compressor yet so that switch will just sit there and look pretty.

I need to make an electrical drawing on how I will be wiring up the switches. Turns out the best thing to do (perhaps the only really right thing to do) is to run a fused positive and negative to all the switches. Then you can either hook up positive switched relays or negative switched relays, and the LED "ON" indicators will all operate correctly.

Would you mind posting as you go along? This is one of my next projects and I defiantly don't want to screw it all up.