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View Full Version : AW4 no go. Any tranny experts out there?



ParadiseXJ
05-10-2016, 09:41 AM
Hi there,

I drove my 88 MJ to work (25 miles), highway speeds, no issues. Went to lunch, it made a kind of screechy, metallic sound for about 5 seconds and the truck stuttered for about 1/4 mile. Parked at work, got in it to go home. Put it in reverse...nuthin'. Coasted out of my spot, put it in drive, nuthin'. Won't engage in any gear. Engine runs great.

Towed home, dropped it in the driveway, drained the pan. Nice clean fluid, full. Removed the pan, no chunks, flecks, clean screen, nothing on magnets.

Drained the t-case, checked the fluid, all good. Checked the chain, good.

Pulled the tranny, just to look at the torque converter.

The ONLY thing that is out of the ordinary (other than it won't go) is that the stator gear inside the torque converter spins freely in both directions. Like if I spin it, it has zero resistance, both ways.

TIA

Carves
05-10-2016, 09:56 AM
Doesnt offer much in the way of help or reasons why,

... but you need a new TC ... according to the FSM .. ;);)


TORQUE CONVERTER STATOR CLUTCH INSPECTION.

(1) Insert Rotating Tool 7547 into converter hub and seat tool in one–way clutch (Fig. 31).
(2) Insert Stopper Tool 7548 in one converter hub notch and into outer race of rotating tool.
(3) Turn rotating tool clockwise. Converter clutch should rotate freely and smoothly. Less than 2.5 N·m(22 in. lbs.) of torque should be required to rotate clutch in clockwise direction.
(4) Turn rotating tool in counterclockwise direction.
Converter clutch should lock.
(5) Replace converter if clutch binds or will not
lock.

ParadiseXJ
06-03-2016, 08:19 AM
Finally getting back to this. I pulled the tranny, pulled the torque converter. Took the converter to local tranny shop. Got an impartial opinion. He had the mentioned "tools" and did the above testing.

We could both tell that the converter was shot. It was free wheeling in both directions, it rattled a lot too, the innards could be moved about 1/2 inch either way.

So, I bought a new converter for $215 and a front seal for $7.99. Just finished re-installing the tranny (except for tightening the flexplate bolts and clicking in all the lines and electrics. The transfer case also needed a look, so I popped the case, checked the chain etc. The inside of the T-case looked brand new, all shiny, seals looked good, replaced input/output seals. So, crossing my fingers when I finish it up so I can head out on my annual Cascade run.

Cheers.