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Hawkeye-Harris
04-12-2016, 12:59 PM
1989 Jeep Cherokee Laredo, D35 rear axle. I have uneven brake engagement with application of the ebrake. The left side works great but not the right. Left side can be locked up but right won't skid.

I have new shoes, hardware and cables and have sanded the drums to remove any glaze. My retired auto-mechanic neighbor suggests using an ebrake-cable shortener on that side. Both are adjusted as close to even as I can get them. I'm trying to get this truck to pass state inspection and this is the only holdup on it.

Any ideas would be appreciated.

4.3LXJ
04-12-2016, 01:21 PM
The first thing I would check is the adjustment on the loose side. The self adjuster may not be working and the shoes a little loose

nickyg
04-12-2016, 01:23 PM
Forgive me if this seems like a silly question. but it's the first place I would start.....
Are the brake shoes on both sides adjusted properly? with just a pinch of drag on the drum?

Hawkeye-Harris
04-12-2016, 01:28 PM
For a fact they are both adjusted as close as practical w/o binding the drums and I have even experimented with over doing the right side just to see if that helps and it did not, so I re-adjusted it back to proper.

Oh, and neither side's self-adjusters seem to work. I'll probably end up removing them.

4.3LXJ
04-12-2016, 03:39 PM
I am out of suggestions then unless the mechanism is not installed right. One wonders if that corner is braking anyway

slvmart
04-13-2016, 05:00 AM
Any chance that the cable going to the one side is rusted and binding ?

Carves
04-13-2016, 07:24 AM
Here ya go ...

Problem solved .. :D


http://i1143.photobucket.com/albums/n629/carves-oz/Repairs/Rear%20Diff%20Swap/2105201325b_zpsff0dbd1d.jpg



but seriously ... there aint much to go wrong with them.

Binding might be an issue as slvmart mentioned.

Disconnect the cable from the drum lever, and here ...

http://i1143.photobucket.com/albums/n629/carves-oz/Repairs/Rear%20Diff%20Swap/2105201321c_zpsa79eff84.jpg

... and see if the dodgy side, cable, has any movement issues ?


You're content that you got the jigsaw puzzle back together correctly ??
I hate the things and fret about getting it right.


This was my issue with the adjuster not working,

... the guide wasnt sitting flat which changed the cable tension.

http://i1143.photobucket.com/albums/n629/carves-oz/Repairs/Rear%20Diff%20Swap/2305201335d_zpscc34c74d.jpg

MattybPDX
04-13-2016, 10:53 AM
Those brakes are the bane of my existence. It took me far longer than I will admit to put them back together.

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

oderdene
04-13-2016, 04:56 PM
Check the cable movement, one side of mine stuck once. cleaned well with brake fluid, wd40 etc.

OldFaurt
04-13-2016, 08:05 PM
Right (Passenger side) is also the side with the exhaust. Common issue nylon liner of ebrake cable, on right where the cable crosses to wheel by exhaust pipe,
melts and locks that cable. Pull right rear wheel, mark cable where it comes through the backing plate, with sharpy and engage the ebrake GENTLY!
see if the inner cable moved! if not, rock auto has them cheep, buy a pair! you will love the difference!

Make sure the tension spring(s)/hangers are hooked up to cable to hold away from exhaust!

Hawkeye-Harris
04-14-2016, 07:56 AM
All the parts are new -- I mean new as in recently purchased NAPA branded. I had it all apart yesterday morning and put it back together. The cable glides smoothly, no restrictions at all. There is no apparent restriction in movement in the drum or hardware. That right side brake does engage but it will not lockup that wheel, either on asphalt or gravel.

The previous owner was a neanderthal and had over-stressed the body-to-cable bracket mount area damaging the floorboard metal (cable was damaged by exhaust heat so he just pulled harder and harder trying to engage the brakes). I fixed that but it made little difference. I checked trailing/leading shoe placement and AFAIK they are correct; I consulted two SAE certified mechanics and two diagrams; they all say leading shoe is the shorter; is this right?

I have now consulted with my retired mechanic neighbor to get his expert opinion and he said the truck should pass state inspection even though the right side brake does not engage as much as the left.

Hawkeye-Harris
04-14-2016, 08:05 AM
but seriously ... there aint much to go wrong with them.

Binding might be an issue as slvmart mentioned.

Disconnect the cable from the drum lever, and here ...

http://i1143.photobucket.com/albums/n629/carves-oz/Repairs/Rear%20Diff%20Swap/2105201321c_zpsa79eff84.jpg

... and see if the dodgy side, cable, has any movement issues ?


You're content that you got the jigsaw puzzle back together correctly ??
I hate the things and fret about getting it right.


This was my issue with the adjuster not working,

... the guide wasnt sitting flat which changed the cable tension.


'89s are apparently different. On mine there are two small brackets, one on each side of the transmission/driveshaft tunnel where the each cable housing attaches.

In my case there is no binding of the adjuster cable, the guide lays flat against the shoe. You are right, it is sometimes difficult to get that cable and guide to cooperate.

Hawkeye-Harris
04-19-2016, 07:13 PM
The mystery is still unsolved; but there is good news: the Jeep passed state inspection anyway! :D I'm still going to continue looking into this, but it now on the back burner.

Thanks to everyone for all your suggestions. :thanx: