Mig Welders

[Mudderoy]

I got shit I gotta weld!

I haven't bought a welding machine simply because I haven't wanted to drop $1000 and that's before I get the rest of the stuff that goes with it.

What's wrong with this one?

Hobart 500559 Handler Wire Welder - Mig Welding Equipment - Amazon.com@@AMEPARAM@@http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/41-elSqu1XL.@@AMEPARAM@@41-elSqu1XL

Or how about this one?

MIG Welder, Handheld, 120VAC: Power Sand Blasters: Amazon.com: Home Improvement@@AMEPARAM@@http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/41B6fuzi4KL.@@AMEPARAM@@41B6fuzi4KL

[blazer2]

Neither both are good welders. I have the Hobart 210MVP and it does what it needs to
The reason i went with the Hobart is I have an older iron man2510. And I can get parts for them at any
Farm store. Both will weld, and do a great job at it.
I got mine at weld city a little cheaper and I didn't have to pay for shipping.

[Hawkeye-Harris]

I have the Hobart model, its a good welder and I know how to use it, but for real fabrication you need a 230 volt machine. I'd suggest you get one that cranks down to 10 amps and up to at least 180 amps. Please be aware of the fact that the MIG processes are not well suited to work on rusty, painted, galvanized or dirty metals, for those conditions you need a stick welder, fact is you should have both to do anything serious.

[XJ Wheeler]

The hobart 140 is the one I've wanted for a while since I'm using my brothers 125 and it's pretty limited. But all the welding I've done (frame stiffeners, prerunner bar, tubing rockers, etc) I've used that little welder. The really only thing I would change is being able to use gas, which the 140 can do.

Sent via messenger pigeon. I talk, he types.

[XJ Wheeler]

Looking at that hobart it looks like a newer model that doesn't do Flux core or aluminum anymore. May rethink my choice now...

Sent via messenger pigeon. I talk, he types.

[Hawkeye-Harris]

Gas vs no-gas: No-gas wire is thicker, has flux in the center and as give you more penetration and 'burn-through'. Co2 give better penetration too, but not like 'flux-core' wire. Argon give you less penetration and is required for aluminum and is preferred for stainless steel, and gives you less spatter.

Hobart web page shows (http://www.hobartwelders.com/products/wirefeed/handler140/) the Handler does weld aluminum.

[abebehrmann]

Those seem like pretty comparable machines. I think I'd probably go with the Lincoln one, mainly because of the name (although Hobart isn't a bad name either) and it looks like the ground clamp seems to be of slightly higher quality than the Hobart one (copper contacts and strap). I checked out the Hobart ones at Northern Tool before I bought mine from Everlast and I was never very impressed with Hobart even though they have a pretty good reputation.

If you ever think you might have access to 220V power, I'd try to look for a dual-voltage machine. That way you can learn and use it now on regular household power, but later if you want to move up a little you'll have that extra capacity.

I'm very happy with my Everlast PowerMig 200 that I bought a few months ago. It's Dual-Voltage, does Mig and stick welding, and all the attachments seem to be as high quality as the ones with that Lincoln if not higher quality (flow-meter instead of regulator, nice quality durable leads etc). I also like that it has infinite voltage/wire feed speed settings to get everything dialed in perfectly and the wire feed speed and voltage are actually in easily understandable units (inches/minute and volts) like a welding manual will list it instead of the 0-100 and 1-5 like those two you have listed are. That being said, Everlast doesn't really have the best reputation in the welding community (often called Neverlast) so I wouldn't say you were making a mistake by not buying one but I am very happy with mine so far 6+months into owning it.

[GoneWithTheWind]

Here's my 2 cents. Get a welder that uses 220, even if you have to share the plug w/the dryer. I can't remember the math but a duty cycle of 20%@90 amp doesn't give you much time to run a bead before you have to let the welder rest. That's why people burn out harbor freight welders that are 110v and 10% @ 90amp, they can't handle continued use for any length of time. Miller is another good brand. I don't think you'll be happy in the long run w/a 110 volt welder. :)
PS, wear a good respirator, my dad is on oxygen now.

[Hawkeye-Harris]

Illinois Tool Works own both Miller and Hobart along with a ton of other companies, including Smith (welding torches). A Hobart is a Miller marketed to the "prosumer". Lincoln is also very good welder. I was torn between the two but decided on the Hobart based on price where I happened to be at the time.

I don't quite believe those duty-cycle ratings, they seem a little underrated. I have used my little Handler well beyond it's duty-cycle w/o any apparent harm. And likewise, I have a Lincoln AC225, 230v buzz-box welder that I bought brand new when I was 16, it's duty-cycle is rated 10% and I have used it beyond it's duty cycle regularly w/o any problem whatsoever in 30+ years.

[KMW-NWXJ]

I would also recommend going to a 220V machine. No matter what they claim, 110V machines are maxed out at 1/8".

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

[Mudderoy]

Interesting read, I'm learning.

[Hawkeye-Harris]

KMW-NWXJ is right, usually a 110v model can only reliably weld up to ⅛"; you can however weld thicker by using multi-passes or pre-heating with a torch, these techniques are not for the beginner working on critical parts of a motor vehicle.

If you will only be using the 110v welder to repair a stock XJ/MJ it will do. If however you are going to modify it substantially, construct your own cages, bumpers, tire carriers, etc., don't bother with a small 110v model, go with a good quality 230v and a recognized brand, e.g. Miller, Lincoln, Hobart, Tweco, Thermal Dynamics, Century. These are all good quality, with good electronics. I especially like the Tweco Fabricator 181i (http://victortechnologies.com/index.php/tweco/tweco-3-in-1-range/580-tweco-fabricator-181i-product-features), a 230v, MIG, TIG and Stick in one unit. It might be my next MIG machine.

[abebehrmann]

Damn, Hawkeye has me convinced! Check out the deal you can get on the Tweco Fabricator 181i on Cyberweld.com http://store.cyberweld.com/tharcfa18miw.html?utm_medium=shoppingengine&utm_source=googlebase&cvsfa=2530&cvsfe=2&cvsfhu=7468617263666131386d6977&gclid=CKjioYO-jswCFQcKaQodaAkH0Q#pdItemDataTabs

Has most of the features of my Everlast for less money plus DC Lift Arc TIG capability and a better name. If you have 220V power in your garage, I would definitely say get that one.

Shoot, if it did AC TIG too, I think I would have to make that my next welder. But if it did that it would be at least $500 more which would still be a good deal.

[Hawkeye-Harris]

A welder with MIG, Stick and TIG w/AC in one unit is the thing of dreams and the holy grail, at least for me. With AC TIG you can weld aluminum, steel and many other metals including titanium. DC TIG is useful on steel but on aluminum it is limited to thicker material.

If you need or still want a 110v version, Tweco has that, too, the Tweco Fabricator 141i (http://victortechnologies.com/products/detailProduct.html?prodID=W1003141).