Shocks first, then springs, vice-versa?

[packmule1911]

I'm finally getting the stuff together for the budget boost with S-10 leafs, and F-150 coils or stock coils w/ 3" spacers. Understand longer shocks are needed, and have located a set of Monroe's for a Commanche at a good price.

I won't be able to get the time to do all of it once. So, what can I do when?

Shocks one weekend, and springs the next, or the other way around? Is that ok for a daily driver?

[4.3LXJ]

I do the springs first, however those 150 springs are way too stiff for an XJ. The thing is you need to make sure that the shocks are long enough for the springs. The rear shocks with the S10 leaves need to be 4" longer than stock. With those spacers, 3" longer

[packmule1911]

I do the springs first, however those 150 springs are way too stiff for an XJ. The thing is you need to make sure that the shocks are long enough for the springs. The rear shocks with the S10 leaves need to be 4" longer than stock. With those spacers, 3" longer

OK. I'll keep the stock coils and use spacers. I understood that the S-10 leafs would yield 3" lift. From the same source of information, I read that shocks for a Commanche were a good choice to match that kind of lift.

[4.3LXJ]

Actually, they will get you 3.5" of official lift, from stock height with brand new springs. Yours have undoubtedly settled since, so it will go up more. Just a hint, don't remove your main leaf. Just pry the clips apart and undo the center bolt and reassemble

[packmule1911]

I do the springs first, however those 150 springs are way too stiff for an XJ. The thing is you need to make sure that the shocks are long enough for the springs. The rear shocks with the S10 leaves need to be 4" longer than stock. With those spacers, 3" longer


Actually, they will get you 3.5" of official lift, from stock height with brand new springs. Yours have undoubtedly settled since, so it will go up more. Just a hint, don't remove your main leaf. Just pry the clips apart and undo the center bolt and reassemble

Yes, I was going to leave the main leaf in place. This assumes that I can do this in my garage with the tools I have.

I've been a nusance on this site with my "I got no money, but want a lift" posts. Sorry about that; new at this and learning. My main worry is that changing one thing brings about a bunch more that the experienced know, but I do not. I can't afford for the vehicle to be down, nor a long list of other expenses.

I think that the S-10 leafs will be good. I've got a saggy back end, so adding a leaf would be a waste long-term I think. $90 for a pair from salvage. I don't want shackles.

3" spacers, because they are cheap, but I would rather not add a new part. Would prefer getting different coils, but those I can find cheap as salvage.

If folks have gone this route, and picked shocks that worked well, I am humble enough to not have any problem with being told what to buy.

[Joliet Johnny]

Don't forget to grab the Grand Cherokee brake lines when in the JY. Last thing you need is too much flex then 0 brakes. I still remember the look on my dads face when I had him pull in my 5 speed Saturn to my friends shop. Drove it 2 days with no brakes cause the stabilisor bar broke. Even though I thought it was funny at the time that I had no breaks and the trans/ebrake stopped me, looking back I should have towed it.

[packmule1911]

I still remember the look on my dads face when I had him pull in my 5 speed Saturn to my friends shop. Drove it 2 days with no brakes cause the stabilisor bar broke. Even though I thought it was funny at the time that I had no breaks and the trans/ebrake stopped me, looking back I should have towed it.

29 years ago I drove my '68 Plymouth Satellite to college party with no brakes, all because I thought this girl was going to be there. She was. Married her four years later, 25 years ago. It was worth the risk. 3 on the tree, 318 V8. Loved that car. Bought it for $200 out of some guys tobacco field.

[abebehrmann]

I found this site helpful when planning out my junkyard lift. http://www.lunghd.com/Tech_Articles/Suspension_Steering_Axles_and_Brakes/Budget_Lift.htm

[packmule1911]

I found this site helpful when planning out my junkyard lift. http://www.lunghd.com/Tech_Articles/Suspension_Steering_Axles_and_Brakes/Budget_Lift.htm
I've read this. That's where I learned about the Commanche shocks. Now though it looks like ZJ and Wrangler shocks are preferred. UpCountry coils are also now preferred over the F-150's.

I'm not finding UpCountry coils anywhere, and the set of Commanche shocks I found are $100 for the set.

Is there a rule of thumb that if I'm lifted 3" that finding shocks 3" long is a simple guideline? Maybe that would be easier than particular models, assuming the eyes and bushings workout. I've got BPE's in the rear and will be doing them upfront too soon.

[4.3LXJ]

If you are going to be a purest about it, once you have the springs on, then you measure for the extended length you need for the shocks, then bump stop for the collapsed length plus 1" I said 3" longer on the front shocks based on what you said about using a spacer. Other springs are another matter. The rule of thumb I give you here is the only one that works for any situation or combination of parts

[Pyrokid4]

If you're only going three I might have Springs you could grab from me. I think they are Rancho 3 inch lift Springs, just pulled them off my xj cause I'm doing a 4.5 inch lift and don't know what to do with them. Where are you located? (should look at your profile but am at work haha)

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[packmule1911]

All I'm doing is 3". Too high and we'll have trouble getting kayak's up top and such. Long way to ship from NV.

[Pyrokid4]

Yeah. Just looked at your profile and yeah that is far haha.

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[packmule1911]

Shopping list is now:

1. JK shocks - purchased
2. Front BPE - purchased
3. Coil spacers - needed
4. Leaf springs - needed
5. Bump stops - already missing one on the right/front, not sure what I need to get yet.

The general goal is to have room for larger tires, and will likely still only be on modest to mellow trails.

Still going with S-10 leafs, salvage, $90 a pair.

Still going with spacers rather than buying new taller coils because they cost less, but do folks like poly or aluminum better?

Thanks.

[4.3LXJ]

If you are going to use S10 leaves from a pick and pull, see if you can get a discount if you don't pull the main leaf. We got a pair locally at a pick and pull for $20 for just the lower leaves, which is all we used for 3.5" lift

[packmule1911]

Had an opportunity today to speak with a professional Jeep customizer. That wasn't pleasant and I wish know that I hadn't.

I heard a great deal about how my engine is very limited, the transmission can't handle anything without a cooler, the gearbox is weak, and that anything at 3" is full of problems and shouldn't be done in any way other than a full kit installed by a professional. Perhaps I offended him with my modest goals and financial limitations. Didn't mean to.

Oh well. I love my little XJ and am just trying to make it a little bit more better.

The JK shocks have 16 miles on them and were $40. Hope they'll work well enough.

[4.3LXJ]

Had an opportunity today to speak with a professional Jeep customizer. That wasn't pleasant and I wish know that I hadn't.

I heard a great deal about how my engine is very limited, the transmission can't handle anything without a cooler, the gearbox is weak, and that anything at 3" is full of problems and shouldn't be done in any way other than a full kit installed by a professional. Perhaps I offended him with my modest goals and financial limitations. Didn't mean to.

Oh man, a proooofessiioonnaall has just trashed my Jeep with its 8" of lift I have run for the last eight years. :smiley-scared003:

[abebehrmann]

I heard a great deal about how my engine is very limited, the transmission can't handle anything without a cooler, the gearbox is weak, and that anything at 3" is full of problems and shouldn't be done in any way other than a full kit installed by a professional. Perhaps I offended him with my modest goals and financial limitations. Didn't mean to.


:smiley-laughing021::smiley-laughing021::smiley-laughing021:
Lol, some people....

4.0L has plenty of power for the weight of an XJ. AW4 Transmission is very strong, holds up to turbo Toyota Supras making 400+hp. I assume by gearbox he means transfer case, although it is chain-drive it is plenty strong for the application, and like Steve said there are PLENTY of people who have a lot more than 3'' of lift on their XJ.

Sounds like he either doesn't know what he's talking about or wants to sell you a vehicle he has, possibly both.

[packmule1911]

I can't afford either, so perhaps that was what aggravated him.

He said 3" or more changes your drive line too much, shortens your wheelbase, gives you sketchy steering, and so on. Enough of that.

If I chicken out and go for a little less than 3", would I use one less of the S-10 leaves, for example.

If my backend wasn't sagging it would easier I think. As it is, figuring what a bastard pack will accomplish is confusing.

Is it ok to have a short span of time between doing the back end, and then working out the front? Not ideal I suppose, but can I get away with it like that for a week. Daily driver.

[4.3LXJ]

First off, send this guy out with the rest of the quacks into the barnyard. Shortened wheel base, maybe an inch. So now you would have a 100" wheelbase instead of 101". I don't think this matters much. As far as the the driveline goes, the 01 XJs are sensitive to lifting due to the design of the tail shaft on the tcase. You might pick up some vibes. But we have a thread on here on setting driveline angles. Also there are inexpensive kits for slip yoke eliminators that use a front XJ driveline out of the wrecking yard. So don't rule it out. This guy was just fishing for a way to empty your wallet

[denverd1]

Springs first. Get to your desired height, then shocks. You can move shock mounts too...

sent from my Samsoon S5 from the bottom of a mud hole

[Pyrokid4]

First off, send this guy out with the rest of the quacks into the barnyard. Shortened wheel base, maybe an inch. So now you would have a 100" wheelbase instead of 101". I don't think this matters much. As far as the the driveline goes, the 01 XJs are sensitive to lifting due to the design of the tail shaft on the tcase. You might pick up some vibes. But we have a thread on here on setting driveline angles. Also there are inexpensive kits for slip yoke eliminators that use a front XJ driveline out of the wrecking yard. So don't rule it out. This guy was just fishing for a way to empty your wallet
I agree with this. My 3 inch lift didn't get me too many vibes. Yes there were some and yes they were noticeable but nothing too bad. Nice thing with lifts is (most the time) you can pick and choose what you want to do so it doesn't drain all the money in your pocket all at once. It is better to do it all at once but most the time wont hurt to pick and choose what you do. And to answer your question about poly of aluminum coil spacers. I ran 3 inch poly coil spacers for awhile and didn't have a problem with them. This was a quote of 4.3 and a reply to OP. Just to make that clear haha

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[packmule1911]

IAnd to answer your question about poly of aluminum coil spacers. I ran 3 inch poly coil spacers for awhile and didn't have a problem with them. This was a quote of 4.3 and a reply to OP. Just to make that clear haha.
Would prefer not use spacers, and go with coils that are right for the height, but salvage coils. F-150's used to be recommended to go along with the S-10 rear, but not so much anymore. V8 ZJ UpCountry coils are suggested, but finding a set of those seems next to impossible. I could get some Rubicon coils for nothing, but it seems those don't work. Any other options? Aftermarket springs specific to the height I want are reasonably priced, but $20 bucks or free is better than $100+.

I did find these 5.2L V8 ZJ coils. Would they fit the bill?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1993-1995-JEEP-GRAND-CHEROKEE-5-2L-4X4-FRONT-COIL-SPRINGS-SET-OF-2-/161826586048?fits=Model%3AGrand+Cherokee&hash=item25ad9dbdc0:g:zSsAAOSwBahVKzMe&vxp=mtr

[4.3LXJ]

I did find these 5.2L V8 ZJ coils. Would they fit the bill?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1993-1995-JEEP-GRAND-CHEROKEE-5-2L-4X4-FRONT-COIL-SPRINGS-SET-OF-2-/161826586048?fits=Model%3AGrand+Cherokee&hash=item25ad9dbdc0:g:zSsAAOSwBahVKzMe&vxp=mtr

Yes, those will work and give you 1 3/4" of lift without having to change the shocks

[packmule1911]

Yes, those will work and give you 1 3/4" of lift without having to change the shocks

How high can you go with factory shocks and BPE's. I've got the JK shocks coming, reported to work for lifts up to 3", but I could leave the Sensatracks in there too.

[4.3LXJ]

I am not sure on the BPEs and stud extenders. I suppose you could do it, but I don't have any experience there accept stud adapter I made

[nickyg]

I can't afford either, so perhaps that was what aggravated him.

He said 3" or more changes your drive line too much, shortens your wheelbase, gives you sketchy steering, and so on. Enough of that.

If I chicken out and go for a little less than 3", would I use one less of the S-10 leaves, for example.

If my backend wasn't sagging it would easier I think. As it is, figuring what a bastard pack will accomplish is confusing.

Is it ok to have a short span of time between doing the back end, and then working out the front? Not ideal I suppose, but can I get away with it like that for a week. Daily driver.
OK. Here's what I did on my 2 inch budget boost.

1...I took 1 leaf spring from a s10. took it apart and cut 2 leafs the same size with a grinder.
2...Added 1 cut s10 leaf to each side of my sagging stock spring. That got me a little over 2 inchs of lift.
After the rear was done I took measurements to see how much I needed upfront. A 2 inch daystar poly spacer did the trick.
Everything else is stock.
It cost me about 50 bucks. Took a few hours per axle. and I drove it around for two weeks with the back "Jacked up" while I found the time to do the front. Just looks funny.

SOOO My advice. Do the bastard pack in the back first. see what you get. then do the front.

[nickyg]

I helped a buddy do a sorta budget boost on his xj. He did it backwards he put a thunderbird spring in the front. (that got him 3 1/2) Then put a new 2 inch leaf spring and added chevy lowering shackles to even it out. At 3 1/2 inch the brake lines looked a little tight for my taste. but an easy fix. Just adds a little to the overall cost.

http://www.autozone.com/suspension-steering-tire-and-wheel/suspension-lift-lower-kit/superior-automotive-suspension-lift-lower-kit/204654_0_0/

[packmule1911]

2...Added 1 cut s10 leaf to each side of my sagging stock spring. That got me a little over 2 inchs of lift.

So with the S-10, you added a leaf to the stock XJ set? I was going to take the main XJ leaf and swap the rest with an XJ pack, or maybe two XJ's and the rest S-10's, depending on how much I get. I want to leave the main XJ in there. The sag I have now is what's causing the waffling. I'm just not sure what combo will solve the sag problem and give the 2-3" lift.

I've got the V8 ZJ coils coming, and can add a spacer if needed to match up with the back. Anywhere between 2 and 3 inches is fine with me. Don't want to go over 3 though.

I got the set of Rubicon shocks for $40, with 16 miles on them, if needed. Some budget BPE's are already on the rear (sway bar brackets) and a set for the front to install as well.

[packmule1911]

But we have a thread on here on setting driveline angles. Also there are inexpensive kits for slip yoke eliminators that use a front XJ driveline out of the wrecking yard. So don't rule it out.
A $200 kit will be tough to manage. Dropping the TC is within reach. Can you share the details about the wrecking yard approach?

[4.3LXJ]

The cheap way to get the SYE is to use Hack n Tap. You cut off part of the tail shaft, drill and tap the end with the provided stuff and install a flange on it that accepts the double cardan U joint off the front driveline. Get a good front drive line off a 4.0 auto XJ and bolt it in

[nickyg]

So with the S-10, you added a leaf to the stock XJ set? I was going to take the main XJ leaf and swap the rest with an XJ pack, or maybe two XJ's and the rest S-10's, depending on how much I get. I want to leave the main XJ in there. The sag I have now is what's causing the waffling. I'm just not sure what combo will solve the sag problem and give the 2-3" lift.

I've got the V8 ZJ coils coming, and can add a spacer if needed to match up with the back. Anywhere between 2 and 3 inches is fine with me. Don't want to go over 3 though.

I got the set of Rubicon shocks for $40, with 16 miles on them, if needed. Some budget BPE's are already on the rear (sway bar brackets) and a set for the front to install as well.
Yes. I added one leaf to my stock leaf pack. I only wanted a small amount of lift


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[4.3LXJ]

I just remembered that Dirtbound Off Road also has an inexpensive SYE kit

[packmule1911]

Yes. I added one leaf to my stock leaf pack. I only wanted a small amount of lift

Thanks. I was planning to swap rather than add, either swaping all but the main, or half-half.

Found a pair of S-10 Blazer leafs today for $25. It looks to me like and S-10 is an S-10, and the "Blazer" designation shouldn't make any difference. Would you folks agree?

[packmule1911]

I just remembered that Dirtbound Off Road also has an inexpensive SYE kit

Dropping the T/C would still be viable though, right?

What's the strongest option for dropping?

[4.3LXJ]

Yes, and cheap. You can make a tcase drop for about $2.98

[packmule1911]

1" seems the drop cited the most.

If I drop it, I'm guessing that the T/C factory skid plate I installed will have to go.

[4.3LXJ]

Space it too

[packmule1911]

Space it too

Another thing to learn, and I need to get under there and look.

Reading what people say about this process and there's stuff about studs in the cross member. When I got my Jeep it didn't have a cross member (skid plate) for the T/C. I found one and installed. It was a pain because I couldn't find nutserts to go into the holes in the frame to do so, but it's on there now.

Since you lower it as well, you'd do so at both the frame end and the transmission cross member end, right? Folks make a big deal about the studs, but I don't yet get why the studs are a big deal.

What I'm not clear on yet is around the lowering of the T/C itself. Need to take a look.

[4.3LXJ]

The reason the studs are a "big deal" is they are not long enough to use for lowering the cross member. They have to be removed. Just use a pipe wrench on them and they will unscrew. The transfer case will come down with the cross member that holds it up. You will see when you get under there. But personally, I would go the shim route on the diff first

[packmule1911]

Back to the springs:
Coils and leafs in hand. 4.3LXJ, you said using the XJ main with the three shortest S-10's would result in 3.5". If I wanted to shoot for 2.5" what combo would you suggest? My think is the ZJ coils with a .75" spacer will turn out to around 2.5" and that seems good for me.
Thanks.

[4.3LXJ]

I am not sure on that, I think substitute #2 and 3 with the S10. But it is a crap shoot with a bastard pack. And remember those lift measurements are in reference to what it was when it rolled off the show room, not after settling

[packmule1911]

Thanks. I understand. Big hunks of old metal are not exact. Do folks elect to use the S-10 spacers if they're there?

I'm going to run a belt sander down each a time or two and paint them.

[4.3LXJ]

The only spacer I can think of is a piece of teflon between #3 and 4. If you mean the friction pads on the ends, yes

[Pyrokid4]

@packmule
This is a video for the bastard pack using the S-10 leafs. It's super useful. This is what I was going to follow when I was going to do my bastard pack. And I had my 3 inch lift in the front and stock shocks. Now was it the right way to do it? No. Did it lift it yeah. The thing that happened was the shocks would bottom out before the springs would decompress. So with that being said, anything reasonably longer than the stock shocks should work. Hope that makes sense and helps. Here's the link to the video
https://youtu.be/3c8swLMirAM

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[packmule1911]

I had my 3 inch lift in the front and stock shocks. Now was it the right way to do it? No. Did it lift it yeah. The thing that happened was the shocks would bottom out before the springs would decompress. So with that being said, anything reasonably longer than the stock shocks should work.
Thanks for the video. I've studied this a few times. I'd prefer to add a leaf, but use a combination of them while keeping my main XJ leaf in place.

For shocks I've got some JK OEm shocks that were taken off a new Rubicon, which a reported to work for up to a 4" lift.

Not sure about bump stops. I saw the other day that I'm missing one on the front anyway. How long of bump stops I need I'm not real clear on just yet.

[packmule1911]

Just thought of something:

For coil spacers, since I am using V8 ZJ coils, so I need to get spacers specifically for the ZJ because of where the coils came from or for the XJ that the coils are going into?

Does it matter?

[Pyrokid4]

Just thought of something:

For coil spacers, since I am using V8 ZJ coils, so I need to get spacers specifically for the ZJ because of where the coils came from or for the XJ that the coils are going into?

Does it matter?
No usually it won't work like that. Unless the ZJ coils at the top are a way larger diameter you should be able to use your XJ coil spacers. The coil spacers are just a big puck that slides around the bump stop and are actually larger than the small diameter at the top of the coil. It would just take looking at the top diameter of the ZJ coils vs. the diameter of the XJ coil spacers.

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[packmule1911]

I didn't figure it would matter, but I'd rather ask and be prepared than get a surprise.

[Pyrokid4]

I didn't figure it would matter, but I'd rather ask and be prepared than get a surprise.
Haha yeah no it shouldn't be a huge deal. Just as long as they have more extended length then the stock shocks. Cause the stock ones when just driving on the pavement are alright, cause you're not having the suspension flexed all the way, but that being said when you are at full flex they will bottom out. So yeah you should be good!

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[Mudderoy]

Dropping the T/C would still be viable though, right?

What's the strongest option for dropping?

I'd recommend some nice square tubing and longer bolts. I learned the hard way that rubber spacers just let the bolts back out.

[packmule1911]

The only spacer I can think of is a piece of teflon between #3 and 4. If you mean the friction pads on the ends, yes

The thin black plastic sheets between some of the S-10 leafs are broken. They had little tabs on them that pressed through holes in the leafs. I guess I need to locate replacements.

I've got 2 and 3 of the S-10's all prepped and painted.

[packmule1911]

OK. Not sure I'm happy.

5 hours, by myself, cold concrete floor: swapped 2 and 3 with the S-10's. 20". Some concerns:

* I couldn't reuse the leaf clamps, so I got what I could find which are square u-bolt. Need to find the kind that fold over and are not so bulky.
* I left the stocks in for now because pressing the metal sleeves into the upper bushings was ticking me off. I have longer shocks for another day.
* The friction sheets could not be salvaged and the parts store had no idea what I was talking about when I went to find replacements. So I guess there will be some friction because there aren't any to use. Don't get why it really matters.
* I was hoping I'd get 2", not three actually. That's why I only used 2 and 3 instead of 2, 3, and 4.

Tomorrow I'll work on the front. I don't have bump stops. The metal cups that thread in are there, but no cushioning material.

Tired. Need a beer.

[packmule1911]

These posts are probably getting annoying. It is my hope that someone gets some use out of them at some point.

Went back in ..... Took out S-10 #2. All that's there now is Xj main, S-10 #3 (almost as long as the the main, and thicker), XJ #'s 2 and 1. 19.75" height on the rear. I think that will be close enough for balancing out with the ZJ coils and no spacers. BPE's going up front as well.

Will hang on to everything for future use.

Coming to grips with something: some air tools would be nice, and help from the teenage son would be nice too. I'll be 50 in May, and this stuff is starting to hurt. All three cars are at 177k and up. My hands are killing me, and tomorrow will be no fun.

235/75-15's look pretty dumb on there.

[packmule1911]

Update:

Used my new spring compressor tool to swap out the passenger side coil. The coil keeper clamp at the bottom seems a bit wimpy, but it's tight. Used a little bottle jack under the driver side to give myself as much room as possible.

Didn't need my new tool on the driver's side. Was able to yank the XJ coil out, and put the ZJ in. Easy. Probably didn't need the tool at all. Would have saved A LOT OF TIME had the passenger side been done this way. I just assumed I needed to compress it. I don't have the right size ratchet wrench so it went SLOW.

The BPE's went in the front just fine, and the new JK shocks seems cool.

The end result is a height of 19 3/4" front and rear.

What's left:

* Sometime this week I'll get some sleeves pressed in to the upper eyes on the rear JK shocks. Someone else can do it for me. I'm tired.
* Change the leaf claps. Note: the big bolt on ones are very close to the rear exhaust pipe and I would think could bang/rub pretty easily.
* Check for vibration, after the ice and sleet leaves the area.
* Brake lines, maybe.
* Save up for new tires.
* Take the leftover to the scrap yard for some lunch money.

Thank you all. Hope this helps someone. I definitely think the S-10, ZJ V8, and JK parts solution works.

8856

[oderdene]

Nice to hear almost everything is done. Congrats bro, have a lil rest & beer :D

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[XJ Wheeler]

Looks nice! A little hard work pays off. Glad that leaf setup leveled out nicely too. Now we know what you get with one S10 leaf.

Sent via messenger pigeon. I talk, he types.

[packmule1911]

Looks nice! A little hard work pays off. Glad that leaf setup leveled out nicely too. Now we know what you get with one S10 leaf.
Thanks. Not sure what flavor of S-10 I got. I assumed S-10 was S-10, but the title of what I bought stated S-10 Blazer. Not sure if there were multiple variations.

I think I'll be the second-to-smallest S-10 back in, once my aches and pains subside.

I'm also seeing that the fullsize spare I have in the spare tire space provided is reducing the height at that corner a little bit. When the money's there I'm going to get a front hitch, and mount a tire carrier to it.

[abebehrmann]

A $200 kit will be tough to manage. Dropping the TC is within reach. Can you share the details about the wrecking yard approach?

http://www.ironrockoffroad.com/10482.html

This is about the cheapest you can find for an SYE.

I'm pretty sure what Steve is referring to is after doing the SYE of your choice, instead of ordering a brand new driveshaft from Tom Woods or another driveshaft company for $500 you can go down to your wrecking yard and pick up an XJ front driveshaft for $40 and then using it as your new rear driveshaft.

[packmule1911]

Couple of general questions:

1. How tight do the leaf spring clamps need to be? I'm getting what sounds like knocking (low pitched squeak) coming to stop and starting out. Friction pads were unusable so it doesn't have any right now. Currently the clamps are those u-bolt type, and I'm not sure how tight they need to be to allow for the right level of articulation of the leafs.

2. Should the leaf clamps be tightened with the load or no load on the springs?

3. Everything seems light up front, but I'm getting knocking sounds. and knocking sensations through the pedals. Doesn't happen over legitimate bumps, but on light bumps for the most part. The ZJ coils were not taller than the XJ's, but thicker and stouter. Are the coils possibly knocking around because the shocks are too long? Should I switch back from the longer JK shocks to the XJ stock? The lift I ended up with was about 2.5".

Also, the steering feels wierd backing up. Feels fine other wise. Doesn't drift of pull anymore than it did before, which it didn't.

Looked under the vehicle and noticed something that didn't look right. In this next picture, is this joint supposed to be canted that far? It doesn't look good to me, but I'm inexperienced, hence asking the question here.

8873

[denverd1]

if you're talking about pitman arm and drag link, no that doesn't look bad.

[abebehrmann]

Couple of general questions:

1. How tight do the leaf spring clamps need to be? I'm getting what sounds like knocking (low pitched squeak) coming to stop and starting out. Friction pads were unusable so it doesn't have any right now. Currently the clamps are those u-bolt type, and I'm not sure how tight they need to be to allow for the right level of articulation of the leafs.

2. Should the leaf clamps be tightened with the load or no load on the springs?

3. Everything seems light up front, but I'm getting knocking sounds. and knocking sensations through the pedals. Doesn't happen over legitimate bumps, but on light bumps for the most part. The ZJ coils were not taller than the XJ's, but thicker and stouter. Are the coils possibly knocking around because the shocks are too long? Should I switch back from the longer JK shocks to the XJ stock? The lift I ended up with was about 2.5".

Also, the steering feels wierd backing up. Feels fine other wise. Doesn't drift of pull anymore than it did before, which it didn't.

Looked under the vehicle and noticed something that didn't look right. In this next picture, is this joint supposed to be canted that far? It doesn't look good to me, but I'm inexperienced, hence asking the question here.

8873

#1) Not sure. I would snug it down with a ratchet but wouldn't break out the breaker bar for it.

#2) It is my understanding that you're supposed lightly tighten the suspension bolts while it's still up in the air but fully tighten them when it's down on the ground.

#3) Make sure the bolts on your shocks are tight. A couple years ago I made some bar pin eliminators for the JK shocks I picked up from a friend. They started making a knocking noise that I finally tracked down to the home made bar pin eliminators not fitting snugly in the bottom shock bushing causing a light knocking noise. Found it by just grabbing hold of the shock and giving it a good shake.

About the weird steering, I'm thinking it could be one of two things:

My first thought was did you do an alignment after the lift? By the nature of the XJ's steering setup, whenever you increase the lift you also increase the toe-in of the front tires. It's fairly easy to get it pretty close in your driveway if you have a friend and follow this basic procedure
https://youtu.be/HwBAF9lyADA

I like to take a small pick and scribe a tiny little line on each tire tread to make it more precise.

My second thought was that it might be caused by your front axle not being completely centered under your Jeep now. By lifting the Jeep but keeping the track-bar the same length, you're effectively moving the front axle a little bit towards the driver's side. I still have the stock track-bar on my Junkyard lift and I haven't noticed this yet, but my girlfriend reminds me all the time that I'm not the most observant person in the world.

Note: I'm not a mechanic nor am I particularly good at mechanic-type work.

[4.3LXJ]

The clamps do not have to be tight. They are only an alignment device. If you are worried about noise, you can put grease between the leaves. Did you get a front end alignment after lifting?

[packmule1911]

Did you get a front end alignment after lifting?
Nope. Missed that being needed in what I read about lifts less than 3". Will have it looked at next week.

Did find that one of the coil keeper clamp bolts was partially stripped out and had loosened. I'll get some of the heavier duty ones with the larger self-tapping bolt, but for now I put a couple lock washers underneath the clamp and it's quieted that particular knocking down.

[denverd1]

Your toe-in will be off a little. easy fix

[packmule1911]

I know this is old, but concluding the thread would be more helpful to folks who undertake the same solution.

Alignment helped. The pitman arm angle was fine.

I used 1 1/8" heavy duty steel couplers as sleeves between the cross member and frame, and ran new bolts through it all to secure the dropped t/c. Even though dropping the t/c shouldn't have been required for this small of a lift, it certainly was in my case. This fixed the horrible noise and rumbling. Square stock would be better, but I don't have any yet. If anyone has some they've made that have the holes in the right places, I'd be happy to buy them from you.

The Sahara shocks seem to be working fine.

I do have an annoying amount of squeeking going on in the back. It sounds like rubber squeeking. Need to find some lube that won't eat rubber bushings and go after the shock bushings. Some more lube between the leaf springs would be good too.

Lastly, found five 16" 2007 JK wheels, with nearly new A/T tires on them for $300 locally. Ditching the 15" wheels I've been using. Tires have been harder to find for 15" wheels. The tires on the new wheels are 245/70R16 and will be fine for now until I can afford 30's or 31's.

All done. Thanks.

[packmule1911]

Resurrecting this thread since the same lift solution is still in place, but acting up:

The driver side rear is sagging. At first I thought it was some cant due to the front wheels being pointed to right when parked, or topography of where it was parked. I measured the wheel well height on level ground, and it read the same and both sides.

Now it's pretty noticeable all the time. I'll get a measurement and post it here. Seems a little soon to be sagging with 50% of an S-10 pack in use. Other factors are maybe that I weigh 215 and I keep a full size spare in the interior spare tire spot. It would be lame is the suspension was that weak that a tire and me would make the vehicle lean.

Interested in your thoughts, and corrective measures. I've already been advised to lose a few pounds.

[4.3LXJ]

50%? Which leaves did you use?

[packmule1911]

50%? Which leaves did you use?

I used the middle two. I left the main XJ leaf (as is the norm as I understood it) and the baby leaf. It provided approximately a little less than 3" and has been great. The shocks were new OEM take-offs from a Wrangler Sahara.

[4.3LXJ]

I don't think the middle of the spring has enough support. The leaves may be loosing their tamper in the center since that is where most of the flex will be

[packmule1911]

I don't think the middle of the spring has enough support. The leaves may be loosing their tamper in the center since that is where most of the flex will be
Thanks. I guess I got something wrong then. The bastard pack approach seemed to allow for any combination, to accomplish the lift desired, while keeping the factory main leaf.

Am I looking at needing to start over, or can I add a more stout spring into the current mix?

[4.3LXJ]

You will need to start over. It is possible to make any combination, but when making a leaf spring is is necessary to make sure the leaves flex evenly. In your case, the middle of the spring was flexing too much and eventually started to take the temper out of the steel. Next time, use the bottom leaf from the S10. You can turn it upside down if you want, but it will keep the middle of the spring from flexing too much

[packmule1911]

You will need to start over. It is possible to make any combination, but when making a leaf spring is is necessary to make sure the leaves flex evenly. In your case, the middle of the spring was flexing too much and eventually started to take the temper out of the steel. Next time, use the bottom leaf from the S10. You can turn it upside down if you want, but it will keep the middle of the spring from flexing too much

Thank you. This is why I posted in this same thread. If anyone goes through all of this, and gets the project wrong, they missed an opportunity to capitalize on my mistakes and should give their Jeep away to someone else.

Seriously, thanks for your help. Too bad the local salvage guys charge $45 a side for S-10 packs.

[4.3LXJ]

Take the spring apart and don't buy the main and see if they charge less

[packmule1911]

I scrapped all of the leafs I didn't use last time, so I'll be using the XJ leaf and all the rest will be S-10's.

[4.3LXJ]

That is the plan. You won't need the main leaf though

[prerunner1982]

Lastly, found five 16" 2007 JK wheels..

What adapters did you use? Probably want to check those periodically, maybe put some locktite on those nuts.