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View Full Version : 1996 XJ se 4x2 4.0 auto throwing code 11



Hogstop
10-02-2015, 03:52 PM
Well, hello all. Been reading your forum trying to figure this thing out, but not much luck so far. Bought this thing a couple months ago with a blown head. Replaced the head with a rebuilt but have a severe miss and stalling issue. Used the check engine light to pull codes and got a code 13...swapped out the map sensor with a new Mopar unit, but then I got a code 11. Replaced the stator in the distributor cause the plate was cracked...still code 11. The crank sensor looks brand new, and tests good for power and ground. Don't have any help right now to turn the engine over by hand for the third test. I opened the main harness up to check for melted wires, but all were good. Re-taped all that and put loom covers back on. Checked all my grounds and even checked the screwes that hold the ecm cover on. No difference. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Running out of ideas...
Thanks in advance
Dennis

prerunner1982
10-02-2015, 04:02 PM
That code points to either Crank or Cam position sensor. The Crank Sensor may look new, but unless you put it on there you never know. It could be a cheap one from Amazon that could have already failed.

I had a miss, stall, and poor idle issue on my 93. Didn't seem like the symptoms that I was used to with a bad CPS (crank, no start), after weeks or trying to diag and changing a few other parts.... it ended up being the Crank Position Sensor.

Hogstop
10-02-2015, 04:26 PM
Thanks prerunner 1982. I was thinking the same thing and even if it's new it could be a cheepo junk part. I found a Mopar for $74.00. That code definitely says its the can sensor or the crank sensor. The cam sensor is new so it almost has to be the crank sensor. Any chance it could be the ecm you think?
Thanks again

nickyg
10-02-2015, 04:36 PM
X2 on the crank sensor. Hard to tell whats going on inside it.
If your not sure when it was replaced last it's probably a good idea to change it.
I had bad luck with ones from Orileys. Original Mopar is the way to go in my opinion.

4.3LXJ
10-02-2015, 04:37 PM
I would not concern myself with the ECM yet. You have a code, go with it and see what happens

prerunner1982
10-02-2015, 04:40 PM
I would try CPS before I jumped to ECU... I suppose it could be but I can't say for sure.

4.3LXJ
10-02-2015, 04:51 PM
ECMs generally but not always start throwing multiple codes. Part of the process needs to be eliminating the obvious and then going from there. If you had a full shop with all the snap on goodies you could do all that in a few minutes by plugging in the right test equipment. But we don't have that

Hogstop
10-02-2015, 05:19 PM
Thanks for all the replys. I just found a Mopar one at The Auto Parts Shop on line for $69.00 shipped. On its way. I'll let you know how it works out.

Hogstop
10-13-2015, 09:16 AM
Well I'm back....new Mopar crank sensor installed...same problems. Rough idle, stalling. Any thoughts?

prerunner1982
10-13-2015, 09:35 AM
Have you cleaned the IAC (Idle Air Control) Valve? It's mounted to the side of the throttle body.

prerunner1982
10-13-2015, 09:36 AM
Keep the other CPS sensor, never hurts to have an extra one of those. It's one of those things... it's not IF a CPS fails, it's WHEN a CPS fails.

nickyg
10-13-2015, 01:26 PM
Still getting code 11?

Hogstop
10-14-2015, 04:49 AM
Yep...cleaned the IAC. Wasn't really dirty.

Hogstop
10-14-2015, 05:05 AM
Yep...still getting the code 11. Rebuilt head, new crank sensor, new cam sensor, new map sensor, checked grounds, checked the ecm plugs, and peeled the harnesses to check for shorts. Runs like crap....misses, tries to die and clatters like the timing is advanced too much. If I disconnect the battery to clear the code the light stays off till I romp on it pretty hard, then it acts like it wants to die and sets the light. If I sit at an idle in neutral and floor it, it will die every time. Bout at my wits end with this thing....any help is much appreciated. Thanks again.

nickyg
10-14-2015, 09:20 PM
??? I'm at a lost??? Do you think it might be possible that the timing chain might be off by a tooth or two? I just thinking outloud I really have no clue.

I miss the old days when you could just give the disturber a twist.

4.3LXJ
10-14-2015, 10:44 PM
I am wondering if the distributor is a tooth off

Hogstop
10-15-2015, 05:18 AM
I'm gonna check the timing today.

4.3LXJ
10-15-2015, 10:59 AM
My understanding is that the ECM will try to correct the timing electronically. Check the position of the rotor against the position of the spark plug wire on the cap. IIRC, you can get that code 11 if the ECM is correcting the timing too much

Hogstop
10-16-2015, 11:17 AM
Yea, I'm stumped too..... Haven't checked the timing chain yet....Seems like if it jumped a tooth it wouldn't run though. Gonna check that in a bit...

Hogstop
10-17-2015, 09:02 AM
You ARE the man!! Apparently, someone had adjusted the non-adjustable distributor, or this thing jumped time. Didn't have any help to get the #1 piston on tdc, so I just retarded the distributor a bit( thinking valve clatter is usually too much advance) and she smoothed out on the idle and acceleration improved greatly. I cleared the codes and been driving it pretty hard....no codes yet. Only issue now is it's a little hard to start cold, and pops through the intake on hard acceleration when cold. I still need to check that timing chain though....something is still going on. Any thoughts on the popping other than timing chain? As I said ...no codes are setting. Could the ecm need time to regroup after all this?

4.3LXJ
10-17-2015, 11:24 AM
Yeah, you better drive it awhile. These ECMs are slow learners. They belong in the remedial class