New User, Many Questions

[Baseless]

Hello, all! I am a new user on the forum, and have a few questions...

1. Is it possible to swap older gauge clusters into a 2001 Cherokee sport? I ask, because once the stock engine goes south I plan on doing a GM V8 and tranny swap (yes, I know, it's heresy).

2. How much would a ZJ rear disc brake conversion cost, as a rough guesstimate?

3. Anyone know where to get replacement dome light receptacles?

4. I plan on doing a simple lift, no more than 3". Any recommendations? Spacer vs Lift spring?

5. Are the rear springs supposed to be slightly "s" shaped?

Any and all help is greatly appreciated!

[prerunner1982]

First of all welcome, it's great to have you here.


Hello, all! I am a new user on the forum, and have a few questions...

1. Is it possible to swap older gauge clusters into a 2001 Cherokee sport? I ask, because once the stock engine goes south I plan on doing a GM V8 and tranny swap (yes, I know, it's heresy). How much older? Earlier than 97 I would doubt it. However I would suggest you make contact with Steve, 4.3LXJ...and if you couldn't tell by his user name he has a GM V6 in his and could probably help with getting your cluster to work.

2. How much would a ZJ rear disc brake conversion cost, as a rough guesstimate? Junkyark parts... pretty cheap. I would guess $100 or so..

3. Anyone know where to get replacement dome light receptacles? Need to replace the one in my 93 as well... low on the list of things to do to it though so I haven't looked around. Junkyard may be another good option.

4. I plan on doing a simple lift, no more than 3". Any recommendations? Spacer vs Lift spring? Spring would be better, especially in the rear. With the V8 in the future V8 ZJ front coils may help you as well with a 2" spacer. Rear I would go with new leaf packs or a bastard pack of sorts over a block/add-a-leaf and/or shackle lift.

5. Are the rear springs supposed to be slightly "s" shaped? NO they are normally U or _.. I have the problem with them frowning on my 93 so I am replacing them and doing a bastard pack. an S shape is typically caused by axle rap where the torque is twisting the leaf packs. This will also be an issue when you go with the V8

Any and all help is greatly appreciated!

[Baseless]

Good to be here! Stumbled upon this forum while searching for cheap, easy mods to do.

[bluedragon436]

I would say a JY could be a good place to check for most of the parts you are looking for.. As for the lift, like was said... do a full leaf swap...as I would say your factory leafs are certainly shot... Something that might be of some help or at least to give you some options to save a few bucks if you don't mind JY shopping...

Junkyard List (http://www.xjtalk.com/showthread.php?t=5646&highlight=Junkyard)

[Mudderoy]

I got tickled at the slight "S" shape. Rear springs should be a lazy "U" :D

[Baseless]

That's what I thought... So, possible bastard pack it is. As for the shackle lift, that's the LAST thing I would do. I also want as close to a factory ride as possible, because there's a 100+ mile commute to school. The rear discs should be relatively easy to find, as they get junked at the local shop fairly often.

Went out and looked at the fuses just now, because the front washer pump doesn't work, and the dome light receptacle is there, front and rear. But would the fuses being intact point to bad wiring, or a bad pump?

[4.3LXJ]

As far as the lift goes, the GM bell housing is larger than the 4.0. People like Advance Adapters say 4.5" minimum lift, and I agree. It is hard to clear the bell housing with the front drive line. As far as I know, the earlier gauge clusters will bolt in. I run a digital system for the ECM and analog parallel system for the gauges

[Baseless]

The guys at Novak Adapters said minimum lift was a 2-3". I'm just going by what their site said.

[4.3LXJ]

Better check on what they are requiring for bumpstops at that height. Just saying

[prerunner1982]

For the bastard pack i would consider combining leaves from each pack rather then the typical s-10 pack with xj main leaf. Mixing in a couple of leaves could potentially give you a couple inches of lift and not stiffen up the ride too much, but would require a bit of trial and error. I will be doing the same with leaf packs from a full size checy truck.

[Baseless]

What I was thinking for the b-packs was a couple leafs from a Dakota (read somewhere else that it was the way to go, but it uses all the leafs instead of just a few). As for the bump stops, Novak's "knowledge" page said to lower them 2" as well. MINIMUM lift required for the V8 swap is 2" with bump stops, but recommended is 3-4.5". So, it's looking like I'll go with something like Rough Country's 3" when the time comes.

[XJ Wheeler]

Did the zj disc swap to mine and it was around $300 but I went with new calipers, rotors, pads, ebrake shoes and hardware, and changed the wheel bearings and seals too. Picked up a junkyard zj Dana 35 and used the caliper brackets/backing plates, brake hoses, lug nut studs (but would get new if I did it again). I think that's it, could be forgetting something.

If you can find a donor with good parts (I.e. pads, rotors, etc) you could save a bit.

Sent via messenger pigeon. I talk, he types.

[Baseless]

Alright, cool. Because of my grandfather's long history with NAPA Auto parts (and 45% parts loyalty discount), I can get new parts for about half of that. Tomorrow afternoon I'm going to the local-ish salvage yard and getting a set of TJ flares so I can put my new wheels on, and will be stopping at the local NAPA for a pair of rear shocks. ~$100 for the four flares and two shocks total.

[prerunner1982]

Tomorrow afternoon I'm going to the local-ish salvage yard and getting a set of TJ flares

Personally I am not a fan of front TJ flares on the front of an XJ, it just doesn't look right. Now using rear flares on the front looks better.

Hope you have better luck in your yards than we do here, no Wranglers/CJs in the yards at all.

[Baseless]

This particular one has at least 5 of each... But, I'm just getting two pairs of rear flares. $50, I take them off myself. Just need to hike in there to get 'em.

[4.3LXJ]

Nothing like access to good cheap parts

[Baseless]

You got that right! Only downside is it's about 30 miles both ways... But, the shocks I'm getting are stock replacements, and are $23.47 apiece, no shipping. Also, if anyone needs a set of rear springs, Quadratec has HD full leaf packs for $100 each, with free shipping. Once budget allows, I'm going to be picking up a pair of them, then possibly throwing an add-a-leaf and longer coil set at it. Now, 4.3LXJ, do you find that the V6 has better mileage than the I6, and do you think it has adequate power? If so, the V6 swap may be a better alternative than the LQ7 V8...

[4.3LXJ]

That is a good price from NAPA

[Baseless]

Very. A Few months ago, I got a pair of fronts and a steering stabilizer for less than $70. Granted, it was all the lowball El Cheapo Grande stuff, but still.

[4.3LXJ]

If I am not mistaken, Monroe makes those shocks.

[Baseless]

I'm not sure what brand they are... But they're blue, and work pretty well! I'll see if I can get a pic of them in a little bit...

[Baseless]

I was only able to get one, then it started to pour... Monotube, plain blue, no markings whatsoever, just about as basic as you can get.

[Baseless]

Later today, I am going to the salvage yard to get the flares. Should hopefully be reasonably easy to remove, and pretty straight forward to install. When I get there, I'll take some pics of the inventory.

[4.3LXJ]

Be sure to get the plastic fasteners and the plastic parts that go behind the flares

[Baseless]

Unfortunately, it started pouring like mad while trying to get them off, and the tools I had weren't quite up to the task. All the bolts were rusted to the point that they were instantly rounded, and most were all but impossible to get to in the first place. There was, however, a nice pair of Dana 60's laying around... Both were out of a Dodge pickup, but both needed a ton of work, so they stayed right where they were.

[Baseless]

Anyone know what the fourth plug from the left, second from the right is for? I'm making a meager attempt at installing a toggle switch in the open spot for a pair of aux lights my friend gave me Wednesday.

[xj-jake]

It's for the factory fog light option, if they were equipped from the factory.

[Baseless]

Huh. Well that works out beautifully, then! I'm going to have to cut a small hole in it, though, then run different wires up through. shouldn't be too much of a problem. I'll post some pics of where I'm at on the install shortly.

[NW99XJ]

Anyone know what the fourth plug is for? I'm making a meager attempt at installing a toggle switch in the open spot for a pair of aux lights my friend gave me Wednesday.

Factory Fog Lights.
They were an "option" on all late models.
The vehicles harness is prewired for it, even if the bumper didn't get the lights, and the dash didn't get the switch.
you will find pre-terminated wires (a pair with a plug at the end of it) tucked up in the quarter panels, or hidden behind the bumper.
You COULD use these to wire in a set of OEM lights or aftermarket fog/driving lights.
..... just remember...this circuit goes dead, as soon as you turn on your brights.

[Baseless]

Huh. Good to know! If I had better skills with wires and had the right connectors, I would indeed use those, now that you've pointed it out! Now what would the best way to cut a hole in the factory fog light switch's place?

[GoneWithTheWind]

I don't mean to but in here, but I am going to. Protect the wires going through the fire wall and put a fuse near the battery. If the wire rubs on that metal, your going to have problems. Put a fuse on the wire near the battery so you don't burn up that nice Jeep your fixing up.

[Baseless]

There is a fuse in the wire, just not close to the battery. These lights are a universal kit, but are a lot of work.

[GoneWithTheWind]

If the fuse is in the cab then the wire will burn all the way to the battery from where the fuse is. I'm thinking about your wire shorting out on your fire wall. I've been warned in the past about offering advice that wasn't asked for, so I'll shut up and go away now.

[Baseless]

Hey, any and all suggestions are greatly appreciated! After all, I've got pretty much no friggin' clue what I'm doing...

[xj-jake]

You're doing just fine but a fuse by the battery or even better yet a relay would probably be better. Some extra tape around the wire where it's going through the fire wall wouldn't hurt for a little extra protection, loom would be better.

Use a utility knife to cut out the opening in the dash panel, that should work fine. Take your time and don't stab yourself.

[xj-jake]

If the fuse is in the cab then the wire will burn all the way to the battery from where the fuse is. I'm thinking about your wire shorting out on your fire wall. I've been warned in the past about offering advice that wasn't asked for, so I'll shut up and go away now.

Your advice is good and valid information! It's always nice to see someone chip in and help out people with questions. It's our job to help out the newer guys so they can learn from our mistakes and not put themselves or someone else in danger. Offer all the advice you have nobody will scold you here! :patriot:

[4.3LXJ]

If the fuse is in the cab then the wire will burn all the way to the battery from where the fuse is. I'm thinking about your wire shorting out on your fire wall. I've been warned in the past about offering advice that wasn't asked for, so I'll shut up and go away now.

Just wanted to chime in with my 2 cents. If the wire, fuse and load are properly matched, then it doesn't matter where the fuse is, as long as it is in front of the load. The fuse is supposed to go long before any of the wire will. The only time putting the fuse next to the battery is valid is if the wire in front of it shorts out. But a properly designed circuit has protection for that

[XJ Wheeler]

Just wanted to chime in with my 2 cents. If the wire, fuse and load are properly matched, then it doesn't matter where the fuse is, as long as it is in front of the load. The fuse is supposed to go long before any of the wire will. The only time putting the fuse next to the battery is valid is if the wire in front of it shorts out. But a properly designed circuit has protection for that

I think the previous suggestion was meant to aim at the problem of the wires shorting at the firewall if the fuse is after it.

Sent via messenger pigeon - i talk, he types.

[Baseless]

I did not end up using a utility knife... Instead, I used an entire arsenal of tools:
Dremel
Reamer
Cabela's Multi Tool
Hammer-Knife Omnitool
Vise-grip Pliers
A half dozen different files
Teeth
Finally got the job done...

[Baseless]

Also, here's where the fuse is in the wire.

[XJ Wheeler]

Surprised there's anything left after all that! :D Looks good, now you got that under your belt!

Sent via messenger pigeon - i talk, he types.

[Baseless]

Hopefully I'll be able to get the TJ flares some time next week... THIS time around, I'll be armed with a cordless sawzall... Then after flares comes wheels, and then the tires. I have the wheels already (Pro-Comp Rock Crawlers 15X8), and was thinking about 30X10.50r15 GT Grabber AT2 for tires. Any thoughts? I'm looking for something no larger than 31", and good year round in Maine, where snow is a big issue on some roads (namely because they're state owned, and more or less completely forgotten about)...

[XJ Wheeler]

Do you plan on lifting it in the near future?

Sent via messenger pigeon - i talk, he types.

[Baseless]

Yes. But nothing extreme... Yet. At most, for now, 2-3", possibly with an SYE not long after.

[XJ Wheeler]

Since you're trimming with the tj flares i suggest going with 31s. They'll look better with the lift and more common should you need a replacement.

Sent via messenger pigeon - i talk, he types.

[Baseless]

Alright, cool. But are the GT's the way to go, or would a different tread pattern be better?

[XJ Wheeler]

Alright, cool. But are the GT's the way to go, or would a different tread pattern be better?

I don't have any personal experience with that specific tire but had generals on our work truck that did good, mileage wise. The tread looks good for the street and some light to medium off roading. Not the most aggressive all terrain but if you're taking it offroad only say 10% of the time they will be a good choice. Again, this is just going off the tread design. The BFGoodrich All Terrain has been a good tire for me, only drawback is in the mud.

Sent via messenger pigeon - i talk, he types.

[Baseless]

The GT AT2's seem like they're the low-baller alternative to the BFG's, cost wise. As much as I want to stretch her legs, Bella will only be seeing off road at most 5-15% of the time. Parents don't quite realize that I'll be damned if I let it expire...

[Baseless]

Well, college started last Saturday (8/29), and as it turns out the Cherokee is quite the versatile machine: 500lb of dorm stuff, ~95mph on the highway (down hill, but still the fastest she'll ever go), and slowing from that speed to ~70 in less than a second without using the brakes. Oh, and she bounds playfully over the speed bump at school. The auxiliary lights almost double the field of view at night, plus brighten things up across the board. Because of the hike to the salvage yard, the flares, wheels, and tires will have to wait yet another week...

[Baseless]

New rear shocks, however much of a PITA they were to replace, make a huge difference in ride and handling!