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chrs93
06-10-2015, 09:48 AM
Quick question:

Do the R134A retrofit adapters work on jeep cherokee's? I recently took my 90' w 4.0 to a shop and they said they couldn't add dye or freon to test the system because the inlet wouldnt accept anything. Its like the schrader valve wouldn't open. I replaced the retrofit adapters w new ones and still having the same problem.

Has any experienced this before? I'm wondering if the stock lines on top of the compressor are blocked.

I'm not doing this myself. I'm leaving it to the pros. Just wanted your guys opinions on this.

4.3LXJ
06-10-2015, 10:23 AM
Yes, those retro fittings can be kind of bogus. I had trouble with them on the wife's car

chrs93
06-10-2015, 11:04 AM
Any particular fix you found on that? I'm stuck with a couple of options it seems.

1. Replace original discharge & Suction lines w/New original lines (These are still R12 lines) and then put the new adapters on to reduce to R134A.

2. Have custom lines made for my jeep but w/R134A nozzles on them. (pricy!!!!)

3. Go to a upull place and pull some inexpensive used lines and give it a go. (By far the least expensive option).


The sad thing is any of three options still doesn't tell my why my original A/C system isnt working. I would still have to have someone dye test,pressure test, etc. after this........

Roqon>
06-10-2015, 01:17 PM
Can you take a side view pic of your factory connector?
It sounds like something is preventing the adapter to screw on far enough.

chrs93
06-10-2015, 02:27 PM
I have attached two pics. 1st the factory ac line with no adapter and plastic lid off. So you can see that there is no schrader valve in this line. The second is with the new R134A adapter on the line. It does have a schrader valve in it. I did take a tiny pick and inserted it into the factory nozzle to check for blockage and it when all the way in.

The only thing I can come up with is maybe the factory valve is gummed up inside the metal black its on. It is screwed on to the top of the compressor and the factory ac line screws into to it. So I should be able to just replace it.

Roqon>
06-10-2015, 02:47 PM
You have to open the valve that is at the end of that block. Only open it with something connected to the port, close it when you are done.

4.3LXJ
06-10-2015, 02:48 PM
Problem solved I think. Those are king valves. They have to be opened in order to receive a charge, or check it for that matter. There is no schrader valve in them. Take off those black caps, and IIRC turn them clockwise with a small crescent wrench. You only have to open them a little. You will charge with the large line. When you finish, you have to close it again or you will loose all the charge in a hurry

chrs93
06-10-2015, 03:34 PM
You guys are killing me!!! Thats it? Thats hilarious. I had no idea that those turned. I guess either did the local shop.....lol

Thanks for the help! Ill let you know how it goes....

4.3LXJ
06-10-2015, 03:51 PM
Yeah, that is probably all it is

XJ Wheeler
06-11-2015, 12:19 AM
Msmoorenburg and I just went through this with mine. First we replaced the expansion valve (block near the firewall the hoses connect to) which was clogged. But still wouldn't charge. The fitting that you connect the charge hose to has a schrader valve in it that was giving us fits. So he pulled the internals out and just used the king valve to shut it off.

I would assume the shop would know about the valves so just throwing this out there.

Sent via messenger pigeon. I talk, he types.