Welcome soylentgreen1337!!!

[4.3LXJ]

Hi soylentgreen1337, :welcome: to the :xjtalk: forum!

We would love to know more about you and your Jeep. How you found us, etc...

Be sure and check out our XJ TALK SHOW! (http://podcasts.xjtalk.com) It\'s about Cherokees! It\'s like a radio talk show, but from the Internet.

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[soylentgreen1337]

I'm actually still in the process of combing craigslist for my first Jeep, hoping to root around here and listen to the show for info to help me make a decision.

So far I'm looking for a 90s Cherokee but that can change and I need some guidance with what to look for. For example, where is it alright to have rust and where is it a dealbreaker, thoughts on starting with a real beater and just start swapping parts vs paying more for something that is closer to where I want it already.

[XJ Wheeler]

In the long run a good bit of rust is more costly so try to avoid a fair amount of it. Floors, rockers, and rear quarter panels are the most common areas. If it's taken to the "frame rails" I would leave it, and depending on your skills the rest is mainly time consuming.

The overall condition, get a beater if you really just want to build it how you like it. A nicer one if you want less work. Personally I look for one's that have problems with parts I'm more knowledgeable and confident in fixing. Like one with engine problems over body work.

Mostly with these, due to the age they're getting to keep your eyes on things to show the extent of care it had. If someone threw a bunch of trash in the floor they probably weren't too diligent in maintenance. Overall they hold up well, but the care they had can make all the difference.

I do suggest going with the 6 cylinder over the 2.5l. Even stock the 4 cylinder isn't great but lifted...

00-01 however got a couple changes that aren't the best. A crack prone head, known as the 0331 head. Not too bad unless it's overheated. Coil on plug ignition, more expensive to fix. Pre-catalytic converters in the exhaust manifold and smaller exhaust ports.

Starting in '91 they had the optional rear axle, Chrysler 8.25". (91-96 got the 27 spline version and 97-01 got 29 spline models) Stronger than the Dana 35 so look for that. It'll have a flat lip on the bottom of the third member that sticks down below the diff cover. Easily visible from the rear.

Pre-00 had the hi-pinion Dana 30 whereas the 00-01 had the low-pinion. Hi-pinion is stronger in the front.

Both t-case options are good for the 90s XJs. The 231 "Command Trac" is the standard option and has great aftermarket support. The 242 "Select Trac" is the full time case that can be ran on the street for inclement weather. Although it has less parts support.




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[soylentgreen1337]

Thank you, that helps!


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[soylentgreen1337]

Based on what I've read and a few youtube videos it seems like 98 and 99 are the years to aim for to be fairly modern with the fewest known issues. I actually like ODBII since I have a bluetooth reader that I use with a spare android phone and so far it works with everything besides Hondas so I'll avoid Renix years. Not being able to swap older parts in doesn't bother me either since I'll be looking at modern aftermarket parts mostly.

I can't afford to make a purchase for a couple months but I'm fairly certain I know what I'm looking for now.

[Mudderoy]

Based on what I've read and a few youtube videos it seems like 98 and 99 are the years to aim for to be fairly modern with the fewest known issues. I actually like ODBII since I have a bluetooth reader that I use with a spare android phone and so far it works with everything besides Hondas so I'll avoid Renix years. Not being able to swap older parts in doesn't bother me either since I'll be looking at modern aftermarket parts mostly.

I can't afford to make a purchase for a couple months but I'm fairly certain I know what I'm looking for now.

I have both a 98 and a 99. The 98 I purchased new, the 99 I purchased used. Gave $2400 for it about 4 years ago. 147k miles, high pinion dana 30 and 29 spline chrysler 8.25. Fair condition, mechanically and interior it was great.

[soylentgreen1337]

So if I find one with the chrysler 8.25 (pref 29 not 27 spline right?) I won't need to plan on swapping the rear? And a dana 30 in the front should be fine in most scenarios?
For some context, I'd like to go off road but I don't plan on doing anything too extreme for a while.

I'm seeing 98 and 99 XJs going for about 2k in decent condition, 1k with a list of problems and 500-750 with a major issue that makes driving it home inadvisable or impossible. This is on the Philadelphia and Allentown, PA CL pages.

[Mudderoy]

So if I find one with the chrysler 8.25 (pref 29 not 27 spline right?) I won't need to plan on swapping the rear? And a dana 30 in the front should be fine in most scenarios?
For some context, I'd like to go off road but I don't plan on doing anything too extreme for a while.

I'm seeing 98 and 99 XJs going for about 2k in decent condition, 1k with a list of problems and 500-750 with a major issue that makes driving it home inadvisable or impossible. This is on the Philadelphia and Allentown, PA CL pages.

From what I have read if the rear end isn't a Dana 35 it's a Chrysler 8.25 and it will only be a 29 spline on the 98 and 99's.

Dana 30 and Chrysler 8.25 98/99 you should be able to do 33" tires locked without worry. Depending on your off road aggressiveness of course.

[XJ Wheeler]

Sounds right to me.

The 30/8.25 combo is be built to handle 35s commonly. But you lean hard enough on em and murphys law takes over. :rolleyes: The '99 is considered the best year typically. Last year before the emission changes and low pinion front diff and first year for the better intake manifold.

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[Mudderoy]

Sounds right to me.

The 30/8.25 combo is be built to handle 35s commonly. But you lean hard enough on em and murphys law takes over. :rolleyes: The '99 is considered the best year typically. Last year before the emission changes and low pinion front diff and first year for the better intake manifold.

Sent via messenger pigeon - i talk, he types.

35's on a Dana 30 would be problematic if locked. Also there are several steering upgrades that should be done to accommodate the additional torque. If you're just cruising around on the streets I bet it would be fine.

Steering upgrade and chrome molly shafts, and something to stiffen the pumkin you'd probably be okay 35's locked. Oh and 4.56 gears to get back to "stock" gearing.

[XJ Wheeler]

35's on a Dana 30 would be problematic if locked. Also there are several steering upgrades that should be done to accommodate the additional torque. If you're just cruising around on the streets I bet it would be fine.

Steering upgrade and chrome molly shafts, and something to stiffen the pumkin you'd probably be okay 35's locked. Oh and 4.56 gears to get back to "stock" gearing.

Yeah, that why I said they could be built to handles 35s. But just like any axle, the driver holds the ultimate key of breakage with whether they can control their right foot or not. :D

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[soylentgreen1337]

Ok well this means I'll need to decide what tradeoffs I'm willing to accept. So far I'm leaning towards a 3 inch lift and 31 or 33 inch tires.


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