Remote Battery Disconnect Question

[radio_flyer_xj]

Ok guys I need to install a battery disconnect due to the fact that my XJ only gets driven mabe a 25 miles a month, and I'm having a problem with the battery being died when I jump in to go for a drive. I've tryed for months to fix it to no avail. So I've given and decided to put in a battery disconnect. Now to my question will this remote solenoid work as a remote battery disconnect?

Amazon.com: NEW COLE HERSEE 12 VOLT 4 TERM 110 AMP CONTINUOUS DUTY LATCHING SOLENOID 24200 24200 24200BK: Automotive@@AMEPARAM@@http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/41dXMYJC5fL.@@AMEPARAM@@41dXMYJC5fL

[radio_flyer_xj]

Or would this one work also?
Amazon.com: NEW 12V 150A CONTINUOUS DUTY SOLENOID FITS RELAY FOR GOLF CARTS 1114208: Automotive@@AMEPARAM@@http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/416a8idTE3L.@@AMEPARAM@@416a8idTE3L

[4.3LXJ]

Yes, it will. I bought that that same one for that purpose. It has been working just fine for me for about a month. That is the toughest one I could find reasonably.

Here is a link for a cheaper price

Amazon.com: NEW 12V 150A CONTINUOUS DUTY SOLENOID RELAY FOR GOLF CARTS 300A IN RUSH 1114208: Automotive@@AMEPARAM@@http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/41weJiwCsLL.@@AMEPARAM@@41weJiwCsLL

[radio_flyer_xj]

Yes, it will. I bought that that same one for that purpose. It has been working just fine for me for about a month. That is the toughest one I could find reasonably.

Here is a link for a cheaper price

Amazon.com: NEW 12V 150A CONTINUOUS DUTY SOLENOID RELAY FOR GOLF CARTS 300A IN RUSH 1114208: Automotive (http://www.amazon.com/CONTINUOUS-SOLENOID-GOLF-CARTS-1114208/dp/B008R1T5IM/ref=pd_sbs_263_2?ie=UTF8&refRID=1BXT8WEZ5SQNA6F514SX)

Thanks I was pretty sure it should but just wanted at confirm it.
Second question did u brake the positive or negative?

[4.3LXJ]

Break the positive.

[radio_flyer_xj]

Ok cool I've always heard to bake the negative

[4.3LXJ]

One factor for this would be the ECM. On mine, if the negative cable is still hooked up, it retains memory. Not sure on the Jeep ECM

[radio_flyer_xj]

not sure ether but I've been un hooking the negative for about a month by hand and haven't noticed anything but u may still b right

[4.3LXJ]

Not sure about it. Probably better research that more

[radio_flyer_xj]

Let me pick ur brain 4.3LXJ I know I well b doing the dual batteries in the next year or so and planning on using this set up.
Amazon.com: T-MAX 47-3800 Dual Battery System: Automotive@@AMEPARAM@@http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/41oVqb5sY3L.@@AMEPARAM@@41oVqb5sY3L

should I do a disconnect now and dual batteries later or just jump to the dual batteries now?

[4.3LXJ]

I am not convinced all that is necessary. I used the dual cable battery terminals, available at NAPA. I put the solenoid between them. There is a sticky in the Tech section on how to wire them. One battery was until recently run the regular way with the second running the winch and accessories. One simple switch would turn on the connection between them. One thing about this new solenoid is that it takes less power than my old one, which was not rated as high as the new one, so you can eliminate that part of it. But you can isolate both if you want.

[OldFaurt]

Break the positive.

Some thing to consider...
The positive side is the side to break, but don't break the lead to the starter.
It has a similar solenoid already. Also it can pull as much as 700 Amps on a cold day!
It should not be your draw anyway. Break where it goes to the Fuse/relay box.
Of course, you could also pull fuses 1 at a time and see which circuit is your issue
and just isolate that one. Sometimes when people put in amplifiers for stereos,
they hook the on trigger lead to constant power and that is your draw,
re-wire it to keyed 12V and you have no more issues!
Just my 2 cents worth...

[cpttuna]

You might consider the Hella battery master disconnect switch(Hella 002843011) from Summit racing #HLA 002843011. It has like a plastic key that breaks and completes the circuit

[radio_flyer_xj]

Some thing to consider...
The positive side is the side to break, but don't break the lead to the starter.
It has a similar solenoid already. Also it can pull as much as 700 Amps on a cold day!
It should not be your draw anyway. Break where it goes to the Fuse/relay box.
Of course, you could also pull fuses 1 at a time and see which circuit is your issue
and just isolate that one. Sometimes when people put in amplifiers for stereos,
they hook the on trigger lead to constant power and that is your draw,
re-wire it to keyed 12V and you have no more issues!
Just my 2 cents worth...

Yes sir I've installed the turn key ones before on fire trucks. I just ask because I read something somewhere that said to do it differently then I've always done