Jeep Noob Here: Is this worth buying? 2000 White XJ Low Miles

[JeepNoob]

Hey Everyone,

I introduced myself in the introduction forum. Thank you for your help! I have a much better idea about what to look for. I have been using ebay the past few weeks because since I live in the rust belt, craigslist has turned out a lot of rust. Though, I have started looking on other craigslist pages down the atlantic coast.

What do you think of this one? Carfax has a big missing timeline in the middle. Should that be a red flag? I know local mechanics are not going to report every little thing so I am not sure if that is a good or bad sign.

Florida - Jeep Cherokee Sport 4WD XJ | eBay

This one looks ok too, but just want advice.

California - Jeep Cherokee SE | eBay


Any feedback on these two listings would be great!

- Jeep Noob

[Mudderoy]

Hey Everyone,

I introduced myself in the introduction forum. Thank you for your help! I have a much better idea about what to look for. I have been using ebay the past few weeks because since I live in the rust belt, craigslist has turned out a lot of rust. Though, I have started looking on other craigslist pages down the atlantic coast.

What do you think of this one? Carfax has a big missing timeline in the middle. Should that be a red flag? I know local mechanics are not going to report every little thing so I am not sure if that is a good or bad sign.

Florida - Jeep Cherokee Sport 4WD XJ | eBay (http://www.ebay.com/itm/261803281859?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT)

This one looks ok too, but just want advice.

California - Jeep Cherokee SE | eBay (http://www.ebay.com/itm/201299448914?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT)


Any feedback on these two listings would be great!

- Jeep Noob

2000/2001 Jeep Cherokees had a head design change. They are more prone to the head cracking. I personally would not buy a 2000 or 2001 Jeep Cherokee. Nor would I spend that much for one. I do like the 110k miles though.

[Mudderoy]

Is this close to you?

http://newjersey.craigslist.org/cto/4922721836.html

http://newjersey.craigslist.org/cto/4919175072.html

http://newjersey.craigslist.org/ctd/4925962037.html

[4.3LXJ]

The 98 is probably the one you want. The 2000 Jeeps had head issues if they got overheated. It is a California rig so no rust. Long trip though

[abebehrmann]

The 98 is a 2.5L 4-cyl and although I've never driven one I've heard they are quite underpowered.

Just my opinion, but I would much rather have a 2000 4.0L than a 98 2.5L. $5k+ is a pretty steep price for the 2000 though.

[prerunner1982]

Honestly..... not impressed with either one.
1st one: Yes is's clean and low mileage, though it has the head that is known to crack... but don't think it's worth $7K...

2nd one: has a 4 cylinder.. really enough said about that.

[JeepNoob]

Is this close to you?

http://newjersey.craigslist.org/cto/4922721836.html

http://newjersey.craigslist.org/cto/4919175072.html

http://newjersey.craigslist.org/ctd/4925962037.html


Those are all close to me! Thanks for the help. Should I concerned about the 200+ mileage?

Jeep Cherokee Sport Sport Utility 4 Door | eBay

This one looks good too but I heard that any lift is going to affect mpg. Ill definitely be taking the one I buy on many long drives.

[JeepNoob]

double post oops

[prerunner1982]

Not a bad price for the mileage...

200K miles may not be that big of a deal, depends on how well it was taken care of which unfortunately in most cases is hard to know. Unless it happened to be done at a shop that reports to Carfax.

If cared for the 4.0 liter inline 6 can for 300K+ miles.

Lift probably doesn't effect mpg as much as the larger/heavier tires that come after the lift.

[slvmart]

I have a 2000 with under 120k, just short of that. So far no head problems and not too many other issues either. Bought it at about 95K for around $7k. But the body was in excellent shape. I suppose that it is all about how much you really drive. I prefer a body that's in good shape over the possibility of a head issue. But then, I can do the work myself. The only thing I really did that cost me some major bucks was to rebuild the entire front end. And that was more precautionary, than necessary. Michigan roads are pretty rough, especially once you get off the highways.
Longest trip I've taken with mine, was not to long after I bought it. Drove down to Houston, where my son was going to trade school, at the time.

[Mudderoy]

Those are all close to me! Thanks for the help. Should I concerned about the 200+ mileage?

Jeep Cherokee Sport Sport Utility 4 Door | eBay (http://www.ebay.com/itm/171707870435?_trksid=p2060778.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT)

This one looks good too but I heard that any lift is going to affect mpg. Ill definitely be taking the one I buy on many long drives.

Those were just examples from craigslist. Watch it for your area and find the right one for you. I think you'll have much better luck getting one locally that you will from ebay. Those ebay vehicles seem VERY expensive to me.

[Mudderoy]

I have a 2000 with under 120k, just short of that. So far no head problems and not too many other issues either. Bought it at about 95K for around $7k. But the body was in excellent shape. I suppose that it is all about how much you really drive. I prefer a body that's in good shape over the possibility of a head issue. But then, I can do the work myself. The only thing I really did that cost me some major bucks was to rebuild the entire front end. And that was more precautionary, than necessary. Michigan roads are pretty rough, especially once you get off the highways.
Longest trip I've taken with mine, was not to long after I bought it. Drove down to Houston, where my son was going to trade school, at the time.

Having the head replaced would be about $1000, someone correct me if that's an old price.

[WhileInTheWild]

I have a 2001 with 170 thousand something miles on it, about 10,000 of those are my own after purchasing it from a dealer that had it listed for over $8,000 (close to 9 if I recall correctly), ended up paying cash for $5,300 for a body & interior that was almost like new and an engine that has been well taken care of. One of these days I will remember to check if I have the TUPY head when I have the hood up or if I still have a potential issue. Just in case I always keep an eye on the engine temp to make sure it stays below 210.

The only real issue I've had with it so far is a cracked power steering line when I took it off road the first time (that was fun running out of power steering fluid on 610) , my other issue is self induced by not installing an SYE when I lifted it 3.5", which will be one of my next projects.

[slvmart]

If I ever have to replace the cylinder head, I might opt for the new Edelbrock :
http://www.edelbrock.com/automotive/mc/cylinder-heads/jeep.shtml

With all the cash we throw at modding our vehicles, might as well.

[denverd1]

Damn that edelbrock looks good. Over half inch lift with the right cam. Would be cool to pull a few dyno runs with a hopped up 4.0. Engine breathes really well with minor exhaust/intake mods

1000 sounds reasonable for a shop to do the head work

[Mudderoy]

If I ever have to replace the cylinder head, I might opt for the new Edelbrock :
http://www.edelbrock.com/automotive/mc/cylinder-heads/jeep.shtml

With all the cash we throw at modding our vehicles, might as well.

Wouldn't aluminum be even more prone to warping?

[slvmart]

Of course, aluminum is more prone to warping. If the engine overheats. My understanding is that the issue with that series of OEM heads, was due to a casting change, the design itself was weaker. And if you happen to overheat, a problem I haven't not run into, yet, that they are liable to crack. But I would have to go back and research this, again. As they say, I'm get to the age where I can hide my own Easter eggs.
So far, I've kept up on any cooling issues but we all know that that isn't a 0% probability answer. But ultimately, the root cause is the overheating and not the head. If the design of the Edelbrock heads is sound, then I would suspect that it might take more to warp that head than it might the stock one. But I have no way of proving that.

Here is a link that might prove interesting if you are into the tech side of Jeeps : http://www.greatlakes4x4.com/showthread.php?t=661

I tired doing a quick find of the info I had on the 0331 casting problems, but no luck. If need be, I'll spend more time looking for it.

[slvmart]

Just went back and checked a couple of Forums. It appears that most of the issues were being reported in the mid to late 2000's. And most of the failures were between 60k - 100k miles. Questions were about the quality of the casting material and potentially some manufacturing issues.

Here are a couple of links form other forums:
http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?p=742024#post742024
http://www.jeepsunlimited.com/forums/showthread.php?391831-Cracked-0331-cylinder-head-castings

[Mudderoy]

Just went back and checked a couple of Forums. It appears that most of the issues were being reported in the mid to late 2000's. And most of the failures were between 60k - 100k miles. Questions were about the quality of the casting material and potentially some manufacturing issues.

Here are a couple of links form other forums:
http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?p=742024#post742024
http://www.jeepsunlimited.com/forums/showthread.php?391831-Cracked-0331-cylinder-head-castings

I thought it was due to the design change of the exhaust ports being smaller so the engine would get up to operating temp faster, saving fuel.

[jdsilvaca]

Yeah, stay away from 2000 and up. 98 - 99 are the best. I have a 97. Some 97's have some wiring issues. My power windows quit working so I got doors with manual crank windows and manual locks in the back. Sometimes the power locks work, sometimes they don't. The driver window works all the time, but the passenger front is hit and miss. I will be changing those doors out too. IT's not my daily driver, so I don't care about that stuff. I think the 2000 year and up went back to a low pinion dana 30 up front. 89 and earlier XJ's had the optional Dana 44 rear. I found one in a junk yard, and one on craigs list. I bought them both. Direct bolt in. Every XJ exported to South America had Dana 44 front and rear, so if you're up for a road trip.........

[slvmart]

Yes they changed some of that. Mainly for emissions. But to my knowledge that was not the cause of the cracking between 3&4.
Here is what Jp has to say :
'97-'01
This era is typically referred to as the "Late Model" Cherokee because it is easily distinguished from the previous 13 years of the vehicle by the different look. The sharp angles were rounded off, the interior grew more ergonomic, and these generally command a higher buy-in price. Under the skin it isn't really all that much different. Essentially the same drivetrain that was dropped in the unitbody of the XJ in '87 remained, with more bells and whistles strapped to it.
cheap Jeep Cherokee Xj transmission Photo 31666581 Sure, these are two-wheel-drive transmissions, but you can still easily see how the AX-15 (left) looks like Hercules compared to the Tinkerbell-like Peugot BA 10/5 (right). The Peugot can be easily identified (and then avoided) by looking for the case that has a left and right half bolted together. The 2WD XJs have the same front suspension, but with beam (aka tube) in place of where the front differential should be.

These Jeeps ended up with the Dana 30 front axle with bigger 760x U-joints, and rear 8.25 axle with the bigger 29-spline axle shafts. The manual transmission-equipped units were more scarce in these years than in the earlier years and the AW4 got an extra output shaft sensor, which means earlier transmissions won't be a direct bolt-in.

There were up to three major wiring harness revisions in 1997. No matter who you talk to, everyone agrees that unless you are leaving it completely alone, you might want to avoid a '97. We've been in and out of most of these, and it's clear that it took Chrysler until late 1997 to figure out the wiring, make it neat, orderly, and uniform from one month to the next.

Once we get away from the '97s, there aren't too many pitfalls in the last four years of production; it is a matter of personal choice. The '98s were basically '97s with the wiring worked out; '99 saw the introduction of the equal-length intake in an effort to keep power numbers up after a head redesign; '00 was the first year for the coil-on-plug style ignition and the NV3550 became an option (a very rare option, at that), and by '01 the high-pinion front axle bowed out in favor of the low-pinion TJ front axle. Some people will tell you to stay away from the '99s because the heads crack, some will tell you stay away from the coil-on-plug ignitions because of misfire codes. Really, these last four years are good years and while there might be problems, they are associated with specific vehicles, not specific years.
http://www.fourwheeler.com/project-vehicles/154-1001-jeep-cherokee-buyers-guide/

[4.3LXJ]

Hey guys, take it easy. Poor Natalie hasn't posted in awhile. Maybe we should start a new thread for this discussion