Do brake calipers go bad after time?

[dagod16]

My xj is 14 years old. Do my brake calipers go bad after 14 years. If so do I replace them with standard calipers or should I upgrade. If I get better calipers then don't I need to upgrade other stuff as well, which I don't really want to do.
Probably gonna keep the jeep another 10 years.

My son is going to be driving it in a few years and I want it to be safe for a teen.

[Brasscatz]

Have you noticed any issues with them? Some calipers will last the life of the vehicle, other times not. As far as safety goes, they usually fail in the sense that they stick or lock up, so losing braking power isn't typically a concern for calipers. Though it may happen but I think the chances are less than say Mila Kunis asking me out on a date :p

Keep in mind, that's only my opinion that money can be better spent elsewhere if you aren't noticing any issues. A more experienced wrencher may say otherwise

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[4.3LXJ]

About the only thing they do to fail is stick. And yes, they can last a lifetime.

[slvmart]

My xj is 14 years old. Do my brake calipers go bad after 14 years. If so do I replace them with standard calipers or should I upgrade. If I get better calipers then don't I need to upgrade other stuff as well, which I don't really want to do.
Probably gonna keep the jeep another 10 years.

My son is going to be driving it in a few years and I want it to be safe for a teen.

I would have to ask, why do you ask ? Are you experiencing any issues ? If not, then why change anything until you do have problems.

Typically, you will have more problems with pads and rotors wearing out, if you drive the vehicle on a regular basis. If you let it sit for longer periods of time, then you might run into problems with the calipers. They will normally start "sticking" as was mentioned. I've had a brake caliper seize so bad that it overheated and was smoking. If you've ever smelled a brake overheating, then you know it's not a pleasant smell.

As far as age related problems, if your brake lines are not rusting out and your flex line to each brake is not bulging or disintegrating, then you should be OK. Then the only other problem, normally, might be the master brake cylinder.

[dagod16]

No problems. I did notice that the rubber on the caliper was slipping out a bit and I pushed it back into place. I can't get the bleed nipple off, it is stuck and starting to strip. The only other thing would be the bolts are getting worn bad and maybe I should replace those next time. Are these concerns? This was a year ago.

[Brasscatz]

The bleeder valve and bolts can be replaced fairly easily. Either get them from the parts store, or even cheaper, find a good set from they junk yard. A pair of tight vise grips should get the bleeder valves out easy enough. But I suggest to leave them in until you plan on bleeding the brakes again or you'll be bleeding them sooner than you planned.

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[dagod16]

Can I buy an overhaul kit online for the calipers and just do it at the next brake job.

What other items can I replace that would really increase performance or safety or anything.

[nickyg]

Can I buy an overhaul kit online for the calipers and just do it at the next brake job.

What other items can I replace that would really increase performance or safety or anything.

I can get em for 20 bucks at Oriley's cheap enough and faster the rebuilding ( in my opinion)
I'd check and replace if needed all the rubber bushings. like in the control arms leaf springs etc etc. not many people pay attention to that kind of stuff.

[slvmart]

No problems. I did notice that the rubber on the caliper was slipping out a bit and I pushed it back into place. I can't get the bleed nipple off, it is stuck and starting to strip. The only other thing would be the bolts are getting worn bad and maybe I should replace those next time. Are these concerns? This was a year ago.

If you are talking the seals around the piston on the caliper, when you say rubber on the caliper, and you are not having problems, then I would still leave it until you have to replace them or have to do other brake work. I don't recall if the pistons are phenolic or metal, (the phenolics tend to seize more than the metal). It may be easier to just get rebuilt calipers, although the caliper rebuild kits are usually pretty cheap. But be prepared to be patient and you may have to replace the phenolic pistons, if they are too tight in the caliper cylinder bore. If that is the case you may be real close to the cost of a rebuilt caliper and still have to do the rebuild yourself.

Most of the hardware can be changed relatively easily. I personally, hate using vise grips. My experience is that they can do more harm than good. If you just need to loosen a seized bleeder, you can just, carefully and slowly, heat it with a propane torch and then remove it. And if you tried to remove the bleeder in the past, it probably didn't strip (at least not the threads) unless you call rounding the hex stripped, they tend to break right at the base leaving the threaded section in the caliper and the rest in your hand.

[dagod16]

Aren't calipers pretty cheap, like maybe $50 each or less? For that price why not get a new one?

[XJ Wheeler]

Had two different ones seize on me at separate times. Let me tell ya, it isn't fun. But since yours have done well this long i say stick with em. The replacement really may not be made as well.

Sent via messenger pigeon - i talk, he types.

[nickxj94]

Just had my Dr front seize on me a few months ago. Ruined pads and warped rotor.

[slvmart]

Aren't calipers pretty cheap, like maybe $50 each or less? For that price why not get a new one?

Yes, I agree. I wouldn't think it was worth the effort either. About $30.

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[dagod16]

Since they are about 14 years old and have never let me down or locked up and they seem to be getting old maybe at the next brake pad change that I will get new calipers and drain and fill the brake fluid which also has never been done.
Doesn't seem that expensive for such an important item.