Drag link removal

[Kellson]

Hey everyone, I need to get my drag link off. I removed the castle nuts and it's basically just being a PITA. I've tried the hammer/pickle fork method and no luck. Also rented a tie rod puller so will that help? Thanks for any tips. '89

[NW99XJ]

Impact is where it's at....
The tie rod ends are all tapered, so they have a "press-fit" mate to the adjoining rod.
TYPICALLY some good, solid, HARD hits with a BFH is all thats needed to jostle them loose.
Sometimes some pressure is needed as well.
Use your pitman arm/tie rod puller, get it as tight as it will go, and then WHACK the "S" out of it!
That SHOULD do it.

[Kellson]

Sounds like a good time haha. Should I smack it right at the threads shaft thing or just on the link itself? How much abuse can it take?

[4.3LXJ]

No, you need to protect the threads. Put a nut on them and leave a couple of threads above

[Kellson]

So should I pound on the drag link with the nut slightly on or off completely?

[bluedragon436]

I would say put the nut on a bit, and hit the nut.. If you hit directly on the bolt portion of the joint, you'll trash the threads, which is what the nut will protect if you put it on there.. I don't know that I'd hit the link directly, not to mention if you hit the nut on the joint, it'll apply more direct force to the part that is stuck in the first place.. Also I'd say hit it up with some Liquid Wrench or something as well to help give just a bit more assistance...

[NW99XJ]

The hits should be delivered primarily to the link/arm itself, right at the side where the rod end goes thru it... sending the shock waves thru the part.... if you HAVE to (which you may) hit the rod end... you'll want to have the castle nut (or any other nut that will thread on) ....threaded in the the point it sits juuuuust above flush with the top of the tapered end... that way you'll hit the nut and not the threads.

[4.3LXJ]

If you put the puller on the tie, then you would want to hit the end of the puller. If you do, protect it by placing another piece of substantial metal flat on it and hit the piece of metal. I have done this many times for those stubborn ones

[Kellson]

I'm just trying to get the drag link off of the knuckle, I don't need the tie rod off. I'm trying to adjust the placement of the axle to accommodate new lower control arms so that's why I'm removing the drag link. Wasn't planning on removing the tie rod from the drag link.

[NW99XJ]

just bang the shit out of the knuckle then where the tie rod goes thru it....
hit it... hit it HARD... repeat.

[NW99XJ]

I know this in a different vehicle altogether, but the principles are the same.
http://youtu.be/khTy-m05tNw?t=1m47s

And this is prob going to be a good video for you to watch as well:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7LZg_MumdDM

[Kellson]

Thank god for BleepinJeep but I'm still stuck. Here's a picture of what I'm dealing with:

[4.3LXJ]

Well now wonder, you are standing on your head :D

This is what you need. I have one and they work great.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/otc-6296

Use this with an impact, or breaker bar and some grunt and it will come off nicely

[Kellson]

Haha that's true. Alright I will give that a shot. Thank you!

[Dredwolf]

Also, at least in my case, Kroil or PB Blaster made things move better.

Mine on my '99 would not budge with considerable pressure on the puller. So I backed off the pressure, hit it with PB Blaster, tapped it a few times to set up vibration, then did something else for 30 minutes. Did that twice more, adding more pressure, and bang:shocker: , it popped off.

[rabies]

i replaced steering damper, drag link and tie bar(zj upgrade)
took off nuts and hammer out threads. most came out real easy. but if you have to keep some parts. the pitman arm/tierod end puller is the key. tigthen down. hit with hammer. tighten. hit with hammer, tighten ..hit with..comes off