ES12 for a/c?

[KMW-NWXJ]

I need to recharge my a/c. Compressor turns on and runs, but the air never gets cold. Rig is a '91 and is still R12. I've been reading around and it seems like EnviroSafe ES12 works well. Haven't found any bad reviews on it yet in R12 systems. Its supposed to be compatible with R12 without flushing. Anyone here used it?

http://www.es-refrigerants.com/products/w/id/310/t/alternate-ac-recharge-kit/details.asp

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[Mudderoy]

I need to recharge my a/c. Compressor turns on and runs, but the air never gets cold. Rig is a '91 and is still R12. I've been reading around and it seems like EnviroSafe ES12 works well. Haven't found any bad reviews on it yet in R12 systems. Its supposed to be compatible with R12 without flushing. Anyone here used it?

http://www.es-refrigerants.com/products/w/id/310/t/alternate-ac-recharge-kit/details.asp

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Interesting, I've never heard of ES12. I'll be watching this thread.

[4.3LXJ]

There are a number of substitutes that have come out recently. Almost too many for me to keep up with. It will be interesting to see how this turns out. But before you do, when the compressor has been running for awhile, does the return hose to the compressor get cold?

[KMW-NWXJ]

I checked before work, and the small line gets noticeably cooler while the compressor is running. The line going into the firewall from the aluminum valve block gets frosty. The air inside doesn't get noticeably cooler at all.

Here is the aluminum valve block. You can see the small line is white from frost.

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/06/20/abameheq.jpg

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[KMW-NWXJ]

Also, does this look like someone did a conversion on it? Looks like there might be conversion fittings on here.

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/06/20/ajezabep.jpg

Anyone have pics of a known stock setup?

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[4.3LXJ]

No Robert, definitely undercharged. The frost in front of that brass block, the TXV is the giveaway. I am working on a podcast for this type of system, but basically you cannot charge this one by the gauge on the can if it has one. Look down by the frame and you will see a canister with a hose going in and out. This has a thing on top that looks like a green spot. It is a site glass. You should be able to see bubbles going past it. You need to charge it with enough to reduce that to a sort of fog going by. That is with refrigerant. I can only say I think it should work the same with a replacement. Those big valves on the back of the compressor are King Valves. After hooking up your refrigerant, you need to open the suction side schrader valve, the little cap, by removing the large cap and then turning clockwise the stem that sticks out. That opens up the schrader valve so you can charge. Good luck

[KMW-NWXJ]

Well, I may be going a different direction with this. I did some calling around, and spoke to some people at Jeepair.com. They told me that in order to convert to 134 all I need to do is change the oil, replace the dryer, and put conversion fittings on. I asked about O-rings, since I have heard that 134 will eat up O-rings in a R12 system, and they said that is not true, and that unless the O-rings are bad and leaking, there will be no issues. So right now I am thinking about ordering the new dryer and fittings from them, and then just taking it in and having it filled once I install the parts.

[4.3LXJ]

What you heard was partially true. R134 does not eat up the rings, but they will leak some of it. R134 is a blend of different sized molecules. The little ones will eventually bleed off. The old rings are black, the R134 rings are green. Also the hoses are different too. Lots of people do it, but they have to recharge periodically unless they change hoses and O rings