Faulty Power Window

[JeepFreak]

So Red seems to be having this issue (for months now although I just now got around to checking it) where the RR window does not go up but it will go down. If I reverse the polarity so - touches + and + touches - and flick the switch down, the window goes up. Unfortunately, now it won't go down by pushing up until I reverse the polarity back to it's 'normal' state. ALL OTHER WINDOWS WORK FINE. The master switch does not make it go UP OR DOWN. It used to make it go down but not up but it no longer does. I have checked continuity with the switch. All pins for down and up are working and it obviously gets power because the thing goes down. The window motor however does NOT make a sound when trying to go up which leads me to believe it is the motor that is burned out. I have followed the wires from the switch and the motor to the inside right front passenger kick panel and there are NO burned or fried wires. Not even in the sheathe. So...where do I go from here? Replace the motor? Replace the switches??? I have already replaced the switches in the Master Lock panel and the RR Panel. Any suggestions? (And yes they all work in the up and down state).

[Philxj4L]

Get ALL the switches checked. I had to change the regulator on the passenger window on mine, we pluged the pass regulator in to check before reassembling everything, It didn't work. Unless EVERYTHING is plugged in, none of the windows work. It seems to be a 'closed' system that requires everything to be connected. :)

[JeepFreak]

Well the odd thing is EVERY window works except the up position on the RR and the up\down position on the RR Master switch on the driver side. That leads me to believe it's the motor because if everything wasn't connected then none of them would be working right? Plus if it can go down, wouldn't that mean it's getting power to the RR switch obviously?

[JeepFreak]

I probably should note though that the RF window switch shorts to ground because every time you use the window or lock switch it blows a fuse for all the power window/locks and the dome lights and the radio. Not sure if that is connected somehow but I suppose it's worth noting.

[4.3LXJ]

Got a meter to chase the short?

[JeepFreak]

Yep I have a meter. Only issue is trying to get the damn panel off so I can follow the line from the switch. None of the wires are burned, frayed, or fused that I can see in the sheathe or the wires leading out of the kick panel. I have yet to pull out the panel but I may do that today just to see if a terminal is fused.

[slvmart]

If memory serves me correctly, and that's a big if, the only thing that the RF and RR Window & Door lock switches have in common is the DDM (Driver Door Module) the Window & Door lock master switches on the Driver Side. And if the RF Window or Door Switch both blow the main breaker, then what do those two issues have in common ?5032

5033

These wiring diagrams are for a 2000 XJ.

Looks like a bit of Detective work ahead. But for the short on the RF door, I would suspect that doors module, although it's possible that it may be the wires between the DDM and the RF door module.

Happy hunting.

[JeepFreak]

Unfortunately, mine is a 1994 so...it's good for a springboard but the diagrams aren't quite what I need. I'm thinking that somewhere along the line either the wires are broken or the switches are. Fuses are fine but I may have to get into the kick panel to see what's going on.

[XJ Wheeler]

Since you can reverse the +/- and the motor works going up i think that takes it out of the equation. Plus, it proves the wiring for that window is good. I'm leaning toward the switch since that's the only thing that makes a difference, but electrical problems are not my forte.

Sent via messenger pigeon - i talk, he types.

[JeepFreak]

Since you can reverse the +/- and the motor works going up i think that takes it out of the equation. Plus, it proves the wiring for that window is good. I'm leaning toward the switch since that's the only thing that makes a difference, but electrical problems are not my forte.

Sent via messenger pigeon - i talk, he types.

Well the odd thing is, the switch has continuity when it is in the down or up position and is open when it's in the neutral position. So the switch works. I'm wondering if it isn't just the little terminal connections that are bad. You know, where the terminal pin slides into. Anyone know how to test those with a DVOM?

[4.3LXJ]

Disconnect the plug to the motor. Then check continuity through the whole thing to the motor plug

[JeepFreak]

Disconnect the plug to the motor. Then check continuity through the whole thing to the motor plug

So check the - and + for continuity that plug into the motor? Like across the two ends?

[4.3LXJ]

No, through the switch as you operate it. Also both to ground to find if there is a short there. Remember, they switch polarity for reverse. So if there is a short both will show continuity to ground