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View Full Version : First hand advice on lift and tyre size please.



Lukexj
03-28-2014, 09:57 AM
Hi guys, I'm new to jeeps and the forum and have been told so many different conflicting answers to this next question I'm beginning to think everyone is crazy!.....I have just bought a RE 4.5 superflex kit with the older RE drop brackets and have done the bushwacker instal with the cutout flares, and would like to know if I can fit 35s in there or will 33s be my limit? I have googled it and seems to be guys running 35s on 4.5" of lift, then I see on forum threads guys saying it won't work and is impractical. Can someone please just give me a honest answer and maybe some photos of there xjs if you are running 35s on 4.5" lift. I will be re gearing and have iron rock offroad adjustable track bar and bracket, OTK steering and dana44 in the rear from the 87 xj.
This is my xj as it sits at the moment
http://i1220.photobucket.com/albums/dd453/lukehoskin/IMAG0287_zpse791357d.jpg
I painted the dash and all the plastics, now just have to put the dynomat and new carpet in (or maybe rubber flooring)
http://i1220.photobucket.com/albums/dd453/lukehoskin/IMAG0484_zpsa1594f78.jpg
http://i1220.photobucket.com/albums/dd453/lukehoskin/IMAG0062_zps2a103dd7.jpg
And done the roof liner
http://i1220.photobucket.com/albums/dd453/lukehoskin/IMAG0088_zps33b281b4.jpg

4.3LXJ
03-28-2014, 11:10 AM
Hey mate, steering wheel is on the wrong side. :D

OK, here is the answer. Since you are rehearing, here is the skinny. You can run 33s no problem since you took care of the fenders with Bushwackers. You can run 35s, but you will need to extend your bump stops, particularly in front to accommodate the the larger tires. One thing yo will have to account for is tire stuff when only one tire is pushed up. So you will have to do this without the front springs in. Also you will not be able to go too wide on the rims or too little offset on the wheels, You want the edge of the tire to miss the lip that drops down off the flare, unless you want to remove that edge, which might be a good idea.

07Negative
03-28-2014, 01:34 PM
I fit 33's on a 4.5" lift with a decent amount of room to stuff tires. I did however take off my fender flares. I haven't tried 35's, but I could see there being a limited amount of up travel while off road. You might hit those bushwackers easily.

cantab27
03-28-2014, 05:30 PM
There's plenty of xj on 35s ...have a look on local jeep forum oh wait that's full of haters...anything can be do to fit, just gotta do ya home work..what she set up for , touring , hard wheeling or trails...is she gonna she street time or trailer queen..me I would run 33s and get that lift earning its coin...what kids tires ya looking at ..

Rocco83
03-28-2014, 08:08 PM
If one were to go up to say...an 8" lift, would the steering need to be switched to hydraulic?

4.3LXJ
03-28-2014, 08:32 PM
You don't have to go to full hydraulic on that. There are other options. I run 8" lift with full mechanical linkage. However you do have to make some changes. There are options. One of the best is to go to the 99 and up WJ knuckles and brakes. This raises the drag link about 3" which would put you into the same range you are now. It is bolt on except if you want to retain your 5X4.5 wheel bolt pattern. That requires you to drill the rotor. You will need the WJ drag link and tie rod which also are much beefier. And a smart guy would relocate his track bar up the 3", which most don't do, but that would make a perfect system for you. There are other over the knuckle systems that will take that much angle, but you end up with bump steer unless you do some track bar bracket work. Also you would need to get a double sheer track bar.

Rocco83
03-28-2014, 08:35 PM
What size tires you run with that? I'm assuming it could take 35s without any trimming.

93xj97347
03-29-2014, 12:39 AM
I'm running 35s with 6.5" lift and trimming. My biggest problem was rubbing on the back of the fenders by the doors. Went to long arm last weekend and moved the axle back center to the wheel well and no more rubbing.

Rocco83
03-29-2014, 07:01 AM
I'm running 35s with 6.5" lift and trimming. My biggest problem was rubbing on the back of the fenders by the doors. Went to long arm last weekend and moved the axle back center to the wheel well and no more rubbing.


How does it work out with your 3.55 gearing? And what all did you have to work on for that? Just trying to wrap my mind around what all I need to buy and how much I'm going to have involved.

I figure lift, SYE, rims, and tires as far as a 6.5" goes. There is a $100 difference between the 5.5" to the 6.5" to the 8". I guess I'm trying to figure out the best bang for the buck and what my best option would be. 35" is about all the tire I'm looking for. I understand I could achieve that with 4.5", but the money difference between 4.5" and 6.5" make me think I might as well just go for the 6.5"

4.3LXJ
03-29-2014, 10:27 AM
6.5" would be better than 8"

93xj97347
03-29-2014, 09:34 PM
Feels a little under powered with the 3.55s but when I put it in 4low it's ok. I did extended brake lines and IRO steering and Trac bar. If I did it all over again I would stay with 6.5" lift but do the long arm kit. 6.5" with nonadjustable short arms sucks. Right now my jeep handles better than my wife's Taurus SHO. I wish I had bought this to start with. (http:// http://www.roughcountry.com/jeep-suspension-lift-kit-perf672.html)

93xj97347
03-29-2014, 09:34 PM
http://www.roughcountry.com/jeep-suspension-lift-kit-perf672.html

Rocco83
03-29-2014, 10:30 PM
Yea I was looking at a 6.5" long arm kit from iron rock off-road.