2000 XJ with a few issues

[X corey J]

Thanks! I recently purchased a 2000 XJ classic in green. Has 160,000 miles but runs and shifts smoothly. It has some issues that need to be taken care of but after that's all done I'd like to lift it and put it on 31's. Some of the issues are...

-Gauges intermittently go out and the airbag light comes on
-#3 misfire and EVAP codes are popping up
-passenger window and drivers rear window do not work
-front tires need balanced
-glove box rattles
-exhaust shield rattles

If anyone has any ideas for these issues, I'm all ears!
I tried to upload pics but didn't work. Hopefully when the weather gets better (currently a foot or so of snow on the ground and in the teens) I will have pictures with a lift and tires.

Thanks everyone!

[Brasscatz]

-Gauges intermittently go out and the airbag light comes on
Could need to clean the instrument cluster connection, possibly need a new clock spring. My money is on the connection.-

#3 misfire and EVAP codes are popping up
Might be time to install champion copper spark plugs, they seem to work best with the xj

-passenger window and drivers rear window do not work
Could be the switch, did you try rolling them down from their respective doors?

-glove box rattles
The screws might need to be tightened, possibly glue some felt in there if they are already tight

-exhaust shield rattles
Some bolts may need to be tightened on these as well. If already tight, steel wool makes a great dampener for exhaust rattles.





Sent from my Samsung Galaxy S4 because my microwave couldn't do it

[X corey J]

Thanks Brasscatz for the reply.

I did do some research and found that info about the cluster. I just need to do it now.:bang:

As far as the plugs, I am one step ahead of you. I just replaced the coil and put new plugs in. It had a #2 misfire code when I got it, but now I have a #3 after the new coil and plugs.

I tried all the switches to the Windows to no avail. It recently started randomly unlocking itself when I'm driving. I'm almost positive is the passenger door because you just tap the panel where the switch is and it does it.

The glove box just doesn't latch correctly. The screws are tight, but I'm using your idea to put foam in to help keep pressure on it so it doesn't rattle.

Steel wool is a great idea! Thanks!

Thanks for the other comments everyone.

Does this forum show up on tapatalk app? Love the forum so far but difficult to use on my tablet. I ditched the laptop awhile ago and i think that would be easier to use in this case.

[Brasscatz]

Thanks Brasscatz for the reply.

I did do some research and found that info about the cluster. I just need to do it now.:bang:

As far as the plugs, I am one step ahead of you. I just replaced the coil and put new plugs in. It had a #2 misfire code when I got it, but now I have a #3 after the new coil and plugs.

I tried all the switches to the Windows to no avail. It recently started randomly unlocking itself when I'm driving. I'm almost positive is the passenger door because you just tap the panel where the switch is and it does it.

The glove box just doesn't latch correctly. The screws are tight, but I'm using your idea to put foam in to help keep pressure on it so it doesn't rattle.

Steel wool is a great idea! Thanks!

Thanks for the other comments everyone.

Does this forum show up on tapatalk app? Love the forum so far but difficult to use on my tablet. I ditched the laptop awhile ago and i think that would be easier to use in this case.

Hey no problem! I was skimming through and looking at pictures the first time, so I'm sorry I missed your questions the first time.

As for the power windows, there is a pretty common problem with the window lock switch malfunctioning. This might be related to your issue and this writeup may help. http://www.cherokeeforum.com/f51/how-fix-power-window-lock-switch-86322/

Also, my glove box doesn't latch correctly either, but it started giving me trouble after I removed it. I need to get back in there and realign it to make it close normally.

For the misfire, what kind of plugs did you use? Did you make sure they are gapped correctly? I forget if yours has a distributor or if you have coil packs.

[X corey J]

The pictures weren't much to look at. Has some dents and stuff that need popped out and I figured once I start adding stuff to it the bumpers will be gone since they are beat up pretty good.

Would the lock switch malfunction allow the windows that do work, work?

My glove box is aligned, just need to figure out the latch and a way to stop it from coming all the way open when I do open it. It's missing the hinge or whatever they use to hold it up.

I used Auto lite copper plugs. I did do some research on them before I got them. Mine is a 2000 so it has an ignition coil.

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[JeepFreak]

The pictures weren't much to look at. Has some dents and stuff that need popped out and I figured once I start adding stuff to it the bumpers will be gone since they are beat up pretty good.

Would the lock switch malfunction allow the windows that do work, work?

My glove box is aligned, just need to figure out the latch and a way to stop it from coming all the way open when I do open it. It's missing the hinge or whatever they use to hold it up.

I used Auto lite copper plugs. I did do some research on them before I got them. Mine is a 2000 so it has an ignition coil.

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Mine is a 1994 and has an ignition coil lol

First of all make sure you replaced the cap, rotor and plug wires (and any other ignition plug wires) at the same time you did the spark plugs. Just because the plugs are new doesn't mean the wires aren't bad. Rule of thumb: if you're replacing any part of the spark sequence, replace it ALL.

Second, make sure it's in the correct firing order from the plug to the distributor. THAT causes MASSIVE problems. If it's correct, you may need to get a compression test and see if it's too high or too low. If the piston is firing too early or late it'll cause a misfire. Compression tests will allow you to find out which. SIDE NOTE: If you take a dollar bill and place one end up to the tailpipe while holding the other, you can test if you're misfiring or if it's a 'mock' CEL. If the bill sucks in every second or so (towards the pipe) and then blows back out (away from it), you indeed have a misfire. If it just putters or flaps in the exhaust, you do NOT have a misfire.

As for the windows, Chrysler decided to be a bunch of Dbags and make it so that if one switch is bad or the wire itself ANYWHERE along the circuit from each of the windows and doors is bad, ALL of them will refuse to work. That's how mine is. Only my driver side works to control the others EXCEPT the rear, right passenger. That one is a....'mobile' problem. It seems to move the problem from where it originally was to somewhere else then back so it's a 'hide-n-seek' game.

[X corey J]

JeepFreak- from my understanding my Jeep doesn't have cap and rotor. It has this. .. http://m.advanceautoparts.com/mt/shop.advanceautoparts.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_ignition-coil-bwd_18240464-p?navigationPath=L1*14923%7CL2*15034%7CL3*16064

I will definitely try the dollar bill trick! As for the windows, my driver Window and rear passenger Window work, so I'm going to search for some switches for the passenger side Window. I could care less about the driver side rear Window not working. Good luck in your hide and seek game!

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[nickxj94]

#3 misfire is just "heat soak" issue. My 2000 has the same problem, my fix is heat sheild that don't work much but best thing that works if you are driving awhile and stop to go in somewhere stay atleast 30 minutes to let the fuel rail cool down, works every time for me. And no code or check engine light comes on anymore.


And yes the 00-01 xj only has the coil rail no wires.

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[X corey J]

Thanks for the reply Nick. I've heard a lot about the "heat soak" issue but I think this may be different. The light stayed on one morning when I first started it after sitting all night. What do you mean your fix is heat shield? Can you please elaborate?

What's Tapatalk?

[gary63]

Misfire on 3 is very comin in the 2000 and 2001 it is becouse of the intake and header it evapuat the fuel at the injecter and is why you get the code. the factory came up with a heat sock that side over the injecter they say it help keep it cooler.

[XJ Wheeler]

Thanks for the reply Nick. I've heard a lot about the "heat soak" issue but I think this may be different. The light stayed on one morning when I first started it after sitting all night. What do you mean your fix is heat shield? Can you please elaborate?

What's Tapatalk?

The heat shield is basically an insulator on the intake manifold to block heat to the injectors. Some people also wrap the injectors as well.

Tapatalk is just an app for viewing and participating on multiple online forums, such as this one. And yes, xjtalk is on it... I'm actually using it now.

Sent via messenger pigeon - i talk, he types.

[nickxj94]

Should be a foil sheild in between the injector rail it was a recall on the xj to fix it. But it don't work to good. Once the code is triggered the light will stay on till it gets erased or battery disconnected.

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[gary63]

the foil sheild is to keep leafs and other thing out of around the manifold so it wouldn't catch on fire. The cloth sock goes on the injector to help keep the heat from the injector.

[JeepFreak]

Since you have an Ignition Coil instead of a cap and rotor, you need to do an individual spark test with one of those instruments from any Auto Parts store. If it sparks too much you need to replace the WHOLE spark rail.

[slvmart]

See attachment from he service manual.

[X corey J]

Looks like I have some research to do fellas! Thanks a lot for the informative answers. I'll unhook the battery and clear the code and see what pops up.

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