Hello

[pointsnorth]

Purchased a 1995 2-Door 4WD XJ today. New to jeeps...Will probably have lots of dumb questions...

Will post photos soon...

4.0L
AT

220k

A bit of rust along drip edge on both sides and a good bit at top of A pillar on passenger side. Also rear door rattles a good bit. Interior is mismatched in places.

No known mechanical issues but definitely will be looking for ways to maximize reliability.
-Added a new Interstate battery and have a Katz lower radiator hose heater to install Monday.

First question: What is the lightest oil that can be safely used during winter? It will be hitting -35(-45 to -55 with the wind) in the next few days; and we've been above 32 degrees 3-4 times since mid-November....

Any suggestions on cold starting would be appreciated.

[Mudderoy]

Purchased a 1995 2-Door 4WD XJ today. New to jeeps...Will probably have lots of dumb questions...

Will post photos soon...

4.0L
AT

220k

A bit of rust along drip edge on both sides and a good bit at top of A pillar on passenger side. Also rear door rattles a good bit. Interior is mismatched in places.

No known mechanical issues but definitely will be looking for ways to maximize reliability.
-Added a new Interstate battery and have a Katz lower radiator hose heater to install Monday.

First question: What is the lightest oil that can be safely used during winter? It will be hitting -35(-45 to -55 with the wind) in the next few days; and we've been above 32 degrees 3-4 times since mid-November....

Any suggestions on cold starting would be appreciated.

Oh wow I think that's a question I'll never know the answer to down here in the Southern states. Thought I'd jump in and say hello though, and :welcome:

[slvmart]

Just kidding, but the obvious suggestion is .... MOVE ! :sign0197:

I'm down in SW Michigan, so it hasn't been great temperature or snow wise, this year, either. But at least our highs are at worst in the single positive digits.

So far no problems starting the XJ. We haven't had the highs of below zero crap here for at least 20 years. And can't say I miss that.

Back then, in the 80's, when it did hit -28 and temps were below zero for almost a month, I had no problems starting any of my vehicles with 5W30. And that was no synthetic. I would think a synthetic that was a 5W should work well for you. The one that quickly comes to mind is the Rotella T6. I use that in my diesels year round.

Good luck with that weather, don't send it down this way, or we may be asking you for help.

[4.3LXJ]

Yes, you could get away with that perhaps. But be advised that when it warms up in spring you need to go to at least 10W40 with that engine. They run hot in the summer and need that extra viscosity. Also you are getting wear on the engine which will require a little more viscosity. We just kind of had this discussion on another thread about oil. Rule of thumb for me is maintaining good oil pressure.

[XJ Wheeler]

Yes, you could get away with that perhaps. But be advised that when it warms up in spring you need to go to at least 10W40 with that engine. They run hot in the summer and need that extra viscosity. Also you are getting wear on the engine which will require a little more viscosity. We just kind of had this discussion on another thread about oil. Rule of thumb for me is maintaining good oil pressure.

Its one of those topics that most have different info on, but what do YOU consider good oil pressure?

Sent via messenger pigeon - i talk, he types.

[XJ Wheeler]

Welcome to xjtalk! That much cold can't be all that much fun, so try and stay warm! A pic of the new jeep would be appreciated too when ya get a moment.

And i always say... The only dumb question is the one never asked!

Sent via messenger pigeon - i talk, he types.

[JeepFreak]

According to Chrysler/Jeep, most XJ's (or automobiles in general) aren't meant to be run at temperatures lower than -45F. Reason being is that at those temperatures, anything that gets hotter than boiling and is exposed such as the exhaust system, O2 sensor, engine block, brakes (if you brake a lot during cold temps), and anything else exposed when extremely hot, could potentially crack or even shatter (what lol). The car is able to run but will be inexplicably sluggish and inefficient. You need to get a specific set of parts for ANY car running in those subzero temps. At 5 degrees F, a fully charged lead-acid battery has only half its rated amp-hour capacity. On top of that, during cold weather, your engine requires more current from the battery in order to get the engine started. Combine less power output with more power requirements and you get a car that won’t start on a cold winter morning. So make sure your battery is extremely reliable AND your alternator can't be rated ANY LESS than 90 Amperes. In fact, for those temps and the added fact you have to use the same power as a 'sunnier' climate with less than half the amp-hours because it's way below 5 degrees F, it might not be a bad idea to get a dual alternator setup. I wouldn't recommend doing it yourself though. That's something a mechanic should do for obvious reasons (explosion, fire, acid spills, electrical system damage, etc).

[pointsnorth]

Thanks for the advice...I purchased a brand new Interstate MT-58 yesterday. Not the best; but the best I could get locally. I also picked up a Katz lower radiator hose heater from L&M yesterday...plan to have it added tomorrow.

As far as oil; was considering a 5w-30 till low temps are reliably above 10 degrees. After that will go back to heavier. I have always run either Valvoline VR-1 20w-50(summer) or Shell RotellaT 15w-40(winter) in my previous cars and trucks(back when I lived in Florida).
- Any reason I can't use either of those for summer months?

I am a volunteer firefighter and live 2-3 miles from the station; so giving warm up time is not always possible.

Next question is spark plugs; again reliability is the key....

Editing pics now...will post shortly.

[XJ Wheeler]

Thank you for your service, sir!

Sent via messenger pigeon - i talk, he types.

[pointsnorth]

'Nother dumb question; is there a way to build a user gallery or do I need to host images elsewhere and link them in?

[pointsnorth]

http://pointsnorthphotography.com/JEEPIMG/Day1-01.jpg

http://pointsnorthphotography.com/JEEPIMG/Day1-02.jpg

http://pointsnorthphotography.com/JEEPIMG/Day1-03.jpg

http://pointsnorthphotography.com/JEEPIMG/Day1-04.jpg

http://pointsnorthphotography.com/JEEPIMG/Day1-05.jpg


Not sure if it's enough detail to ID but here is the rear diff...
http://pointsnorthphotography.com/JEEPIMG/Day1-09.jpg

Also wondering what oil is ideal for low temps for the rear diff?

[XJ Wheeler]

That would be the Dana 35. I don't know about the fluid.

Sent via messenger pigeon - i talk, he types.

[XJ Wheeler]

On the photos, the best way i've found is hosting them.

Sent via messenger pigeon - i talk, he types.

[JeepFreak]

What I might suggest is some snow tires or A/T tires lol cause those are not going to cut it when it gets iced over. A suggestion would be to get BFG A/T tires. It's what I have for not nearly as much snow but when you're in the high sierras of California at 3500 feet, you get some snow and ice on top of rolling mountainous hills and terrain. It helps out a lot especially when the going gets rough but then again that's what my 4WD is for :D of course that pretty much is overkill for the less snowy winters here lol

[Carves]

......... It will be hitting -35(-45 to -55 with the wind) in the next few days; and we've been above 32 degrees 3-4 times since mid-November....

:shocker:

ohhhh screw that ... My temps bottom out ... at 30* ... 3 - 4 times, a year .. :D


G'Day and welcome ...


Heres a link to that oil discussion thread 4.3LXJ mentioned ... http://www.xjtalk.com/showthread.php?t=16803

I think theres probably a coupla other similiar threads on the site too.

Your diff certainly looks like a D35 ... but I was too busy ogling the 2dr panel work, to be sure .. :D

Factory info on the diff oil is,

Lubricant is a thermally stable SAE 80W–90 gear lubricant.

Lubricant for axles intended for heavy-duty or trailer tow use is SAE 75W–140 SYNTHETIC gear lubricant.

Trac-lok differentials require the addition of 4 oz. of friction modifier to the axle lubricant. ... if its not a pre-mix .. ;);)

Not certain .... but I doubt any of the oil companies do a diff oil, of less than 75w these days ...


Enlighten me on the hose heater purpose ... same function, as that block heater option, from the factory ??

[pointsnorth]

Noticed a chirping sound at idle when I came home from work today, thinking a lifter or a pulley might be going? Hope it's not something worse...any known common causes?..Not sure last time fluids were changed...Thinking of maybe flushing motor and using a good high-detergent oil to see if it helps. Is there a preferred method to flush the internals?

Is there a consensus on the favored oil filter? I've always used Purolator.... Are there any part #'s that are interchangeable(would like a larger volume oil filter if one will fit)?


As far as tires, they are decent and no budget to upgrade them anytime soon. The wheels could use being replaced...All jeep wheels from this era have the same lug pattern correct?

Sorry this probably belongs in a new thread...I don't see a tech/repair forum....where would the proper place be? I also have a list of mods I plan; guessing they should go in 'Modified'?

[4.3LXJ]

Probably your serpentine belt. It probably only needs tightening

[Brasscatz]

Noticed a chirping sound at idle when I came home from work today, thinking a lifter or a pulley might be going? Hope it's not something worse...any known common causes?..Not sure last time fluids were changed...Thinking of maybe flushing motor and using a good high-detergent oil to see if it helps. Is there a preferred method to flush the internals?

Is there a consensus on the favored oil filter? I've always used Purolator.... Are there any part #'s that are interchangeable(would like a larger volume oil filter if one will fit)?


As far as tires, they are decent and no budget to upgrade them anytime soon. The wheels could use being replaced...All jeep wheels from this era have the same lug pattern correct?

Sorry this probably belongs in a new thread...I don't see a tech/repair forum....where would the proper place be? I also have a list of mods I plan; guessing they should go in 'Modified'?


That chirping could be your belt being loose. As for posting up, you can just click the "Post!" button on the nav bar at the top. The mods will move it to the proper place if need be, we just want ya posting ;)

For the oil filters, check out this thread: http://www.xjtalk.com/showthread.php?t=112&highlight=larger+filter

The lug pattern for our Jeeps is 5x4.5, and many Jeeps have the same pattern like the TJ.

And to flush the engine oil, a lot of people will use sea foam to do it or just use a little bit of transmission fluid in there

[pointsnorth]

Thanks....i see an asterisk on the purolator in the chart-is there an interference issue?

[abebehrmann]

Oversized filter chart from high performance jeep cherokee

[pointsnorth]

Have a Haynes on the way from ebay.....any other good manuals? Also noted that the part time light stays on while in 4H(have 2-H/4-H/N/4L so guessing I have a NP-231 according to this(http://www.xjtalk.com/showthread.php?t=409)
Is this the normal indication?

Any known reaction with internal seals or gaskets? I use Seafoam and Marvel Mystery Oil. Any experience with gunk engine flush or similar?

[bad luck]

Purchased a 1995 2-Door 4WD XJ today. New to jeeps...Will probably have lots of dumb questions...

Will post photos soon...

4.0L
AT

220k

A bit of rust along drip edge on both sides and a good bit at top of A pillar on passenger side. Also rear door rattles a good bit. Interior is mismatched in places.

No known mechanical issues but definitely will be looking for ways to maximize reliability.
-Added a new Interstate battery and have a Katz lower radiator hose heater to install Monday.

First question: What is the lightest oil that can be safely used during winter? It will be hitting -35(-45 to -55 with the wind) in the next few days; and we've been above 32 degrees 3-4 times since mid-November....

Any suggestions on cold starting would be appreciated.

Where in Minnesota do you live? Frostbite Falls (that is where Rocky and Bullwinkle reside) Wow that is cold! But, Iron Rock Offroad is in Shakopee, and those guys are pretty good, they have a lot of knowledge and parts for xj's.

[pointsnorth]

Where in Minnesota do you live? Frostbite Falls (that is where Rocky and Bullwinkle reside) Wow that is cold! But, Iron Rock Offroad is in Shakopee, and those guys are pretty good, they have a lot of knowledge and parts for xj's.

+-35 miles northeast of Bemidji...if you know where that is....Some of the photos were done on Blackduck lake....

[nickyg]

If your belt is chirping this might help you track it down.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rwtLj_2SMNw

[pointsnorth]

Enlighten me on the hose heater purpose ... same function, as that block heater option, from the factory ??

Yes; But it's $35 and alot quicker/easier to install than a freeze plug.

http://www.fivestarmanufacturing.com/Kat_s

[nikonfan]

Purchased a 1995 2-Door 4WD XJ today. New to jeeps...Will probably have lots of dumb questions...

Will post photos soon...

4.0L
AT

220k

A bit of rust along drip edge on both sides and a good bit at top of A pillar on passenger side. Also rear door rattles a good bit. Interior is mismatched in places.

No known mechanical issues but definitely will be looking for ways to maximize reliability.
-Added a new Interstate battery and have a Katz lower radiator hose heater to install Monday.

First question: What is the lightest oil that can be safely used during winter? It will be hitting -35(-45 to -55 with the wind) in the next few days; and we've been above 32 degrees 3-4 times since mid-November....

Any suggestions on cold starting would be appreciated.

Welcome !
I run quaker state high mileage 10w30 in winter. She gets plugged in at night, here in grand forks,nd. With a 800cca battery I have had no issues yet this winter.

Sent from my Transformer TF101 using Tapatalk

[pointsnorth]

Welcome !
I run quaker state high mileage 10w30 in winter. She gets plugged in at night, here in grand forks,nd. With a 800cca battery I have had no issues yet this winter.

Sent from my Transformer TF101 using Tapatalk

Factory block heater or other variety?

[oderdene]

Welcome to xjtalk.com bro,

Here in Mongolia we have -40F night; -22F day during peak cold time. I use mostly 5w30 Castrol GTX in winter and it works great if my battery is good. One winter I used 0w40 full synthetic, it was easier to start than 5w30, but I've frequently added some oil every 2-3 weeks, don't know a reason, but I know I don't have any leak.

For Dana 35 rear, I've used toyota LSD 75w80 oil, which is only LSD oil I can find here this time. In winter, it was little heavier (hard to roll) first 1-1.5 miles then probably become warm and runs/drives normal

[nikonfan]

Factory style block heater.

tapped from my 4200mah S3

[Brasscatz]

Factory style block heater.

tapped from my 4200mah S3

Mine has one. Funny part is my Jeep has spent its entire life in Houston.... not much need for it lol

[JeepFreak]

Noticed a chirping sound at idle when I came home from work today, thinking a lifter or a pulley might be going? Hope it's not something worse...any known common causes?..Not sure last time fluids were changed...Thinking of maybe flushing motor and using a good high-detergent oil to see if it helps. Is there a preferred method to flush the internals?

Is there a consensus on the favored oil filter? I've always used Purolator.... Are there any part #'s that are interchangeable(would like a larger volume oil filter if one will fit)?


As far as tires, they are decent and no budget to upgrade them anytime soon. The wheels could use being replaced...All jeep wheels from this era have the same lug pattern correct?

Sorry this probably belongs in a new thread...I don't see a tech/repair forum....where would the proper place be? I also have a list of mods I plan; guessing they should go in 'Modified'?

I just had my lifters replaced and it doesn't make a chirping sound. When mine were bad (21 y/o OEM factory lifters) they made a knocking sound more than a 'chirp'. Most likely a belt loosened up. Shouldn't be too hard to tighten again. As for your 4WD light always being illuminated, I have a manual for 1984-01 Jeep Cherokee/Grand Cherokee/Comanche/Wagoneer from Chilton. It has all the trouble codes. If you can get the code through the 'Key Dance' (ON-OFF-ON-OFF-ON-OFF-ON) without starting the vehicle, I can read you the code.

[pointsnorth]

Another dumb question -mostly SAE bolts on the 95 or are there slot of metric mixed in?

[NW99XJ]

Every XJ I have ever worked on has a mix of both metric and standard, as well as a healthy dosage of TORX as well....

[4.3LXJ]

Yup, you have to own all the tools for these. They seem to use whatever was handy in the catch all bucket

[pointsnorth]

Thanks guys. Standing in hand tool aisle putting a tool bag together... Good lord the price of good tools has gone up since the last time I had to buy anything...

[pointsnorth]

So far have sockets and wrenches, vise grips and duct tape...any further additions beyond a spare NSS?

[NW99XJ]

A good penetrating oil, like PB BLaster, or Kroil...and a decent breaker bar.
A good assortment of socket extensions, and as far as your sockets go, make sure you get a decent kit that has both deep and regular sockets in both 6 and 12 point.... there are a few critical bolts on the XJ that you MUST have 12 point sockets for.

[NW99XJ]

If you're planning on doing anything to your hubs/unit bearings, axles, etc... you'll need to have a 36mm socket for the hub nut.
Also, many wrench kits dont come with an 18mm wrench.... you'll need one for power steering lines if it ever came down to it.

[4.3LXJ]

don't forget the big hammer. You will need it sooner or later and a good prybar

[NW99XJ]

Yup a good BFH and a decent sized dead blow... and yes, a good 24" prybar or so WILL come in handy.

[pointsnorth]

was thinking more about a small bag to keep in the vehicle the bare necessities to get the thing home....not sure if I want to carry all my tools around....have most of a set of 6 and some 12 point but only a few deep sockets in the big tool box...thanks for the hint on the 36mm socket and the 18mm wrench...would a stubby set be more useful around the big I6?


already have a makeshift set of irons(pry bar -till I can afford a proper Haligan tool-and an ax) to keep in the truck...never know when you'll need to pry a door or pop a hood to disconnect a car battery to make a scene safe before the cav arrives..also have 2 extinguishers inside...

[XJ Wheeler]

A good set of wrenches is always handy and doesn't take up much room. A lot of times when you need a deep socket or just a socket in general a wrench can get you by in a pinch. Its not always ideal or as easy dealing with a wrench instead of a socket but for the space and cost it may pay off.

Sent via messenger pigeon - i talk, he types.

[Pookapotamus]

Love the look of a 2 door, looks nice and clean too! Good find and good luck!

[NW99XJ]

...would a stubby set be more useful around the big I6?

Nah. I have never ran into a situation where I NEEDED a stubby.
I have a small tool bag, and a small tool box that I carry in the jeep most of the time, as well as a milk crate that holds all my spare fluids.
All easily thrown in or out of the jeep at will, and still leaves room for groceries or a junk yard part.
Good call on the fire extinguishers, ....all I would add to that would be a small EMT kit, or a real good first aid kit. I have two of the later I bring with me everywhere. One is in my back pack, and the other is in the Jeep at all times.

[JeepFreak]

FUSES!!! I can NOT stress how much you need fuses! The car is old as dirt (like my 94 :D) and I cannot tell you how many times a fuse has blown because wires are decaying and old from heat, friction, weather elements, bending (such as the speaker, power lock/window wires in the door sheathe) and various other problems. Don't even get me started on my whole deal with my climate controls. But fuses...NECESSITY. If an important fuse blows (like that for the ignition) you are gonna be hating it if it's 2AM out in the middle of bumfrick nowhere and there's nobody for miles at negative temps. Trust me you need fuses. If you don't know what kind, get at least 2 fuses of the MOST important amperage. Like say your ignition uses 10 Amp fuses, get at least 2 of those. And another note completely the other direction, you need a 3/8 socket to remove your spark plugs if you ever wanna replace those and it has to be a deep socket. My socket is a 3/8 drive with the 3/8 deep socket for those bad boys.

[XjJeepacorn]

Purchased a 1995 2-Door 4WD XJ today. New to jeeps...Will probably have lots of dumb questions...



Will post photos soon...



4.0L

AT



220k



A bit of rust along drip edge on both sides and a good bit at top of A pillar on passenger side. Also rear door rattles a good bit. Interior is mismatched in places.



No known mechanical issues but definitely will be looking for ways to maximize reliability.

-Added a new Interstate battery and have a Katz lower radiator hose heater to install Monday.



First question: What is the lightest oil that can be safely used during winter? It will be hitting -35(-45 to -55 with the wind) in the next few days; and we've been above 32 degrees 3-4 times since mid-November....



Any suggestions on cold starting would be appreciated.



I don't know what the safest is but I run 5w 30 during the winter months, the coldest it's been here this winter is - 40 c

[JeepFreak]

I don't know what the safest is but I run 5w 30 during the winter months, the coldest it's been here this winter is - 40 c

It's actually really simple lol the colder the temps, the lower viscosity oil you need. Reason being is that at cold temps, you want the oil to be able to circulate quickly and efficiently while maintaining oil pressure at a lower temperature. Think of it this way, if you left honey sitting in a freezer at negative temps Fahrenheit, it would take a lot of heat and time to get it to move and coat the entire honey bottle. Same with an engine. If the car sat out overnight in very cold temps, the oil would take a long time and a lot of heat just to get the oil to circulate which could damage vital parts. So if you get a lower viscosity oil, the oil isn't so thick (at 0 degrees F) and is able to flow more easily and therefore can coat your engine's delicate moving parts. Exact opposite in the summer. In the summer you want a HIGHER viscosity oil so that it doesn't thin out very much at higher temps (212 degrees F or operating temperature of many vehicles). This would be like having honey in 100 degree F temps and then subjecting it to over double the heat and trying to have it lubricate everything while being extremely thin. It would damage parts by creating too much frictional heat and would damage the engine. Hopefully that helps everyone clear that up :)

[Carves]

So far have sockets and wrenches, vise grips and duct tape...any further additions beyond a spare NSS?

NSS as in Neutral Start Switch ?? ... googling ought to bring up the paperclip bypass ... and how to clean up your old NSS ... if theres not threads here.

Crank Sensor, down on the bellhousing is commonly, the main show stopper - so its probably worth having one as a spare.

Fuses and relays are handy as in any vehicle.

[XjJeepacorn]

It's actually really simple lol the colder the temps, the lower viscosity oil you need. Reason being is that at cold temps, you want the oil to be able to circulate quickly and efficiently while maintaining oil pressure at a lower temperature. Think of it this way, if you left honey sitting in a freezer at negative temps Fahrenheit, it would take a lot of heat and time to get it to move and coat the entire honey bottle. Same with an engine. If the car sat out overnight in very cold temps, the oil would take a long time and a lot of heat just to get the oil to circulate which could damage vital parts. So if you get a lower viscosity oil, the oil isn't so thick (at 0 degrees F) and is able to flow more easily and therefore can coat your engine's delicate moving parts. Exact opposite in the summer. In the summer you want a HIGHER viscosity oil so that it doesn't thin out very much at higher temps (212 degrees F or operating temperature of many vehicles). This would be like having honey in 100 degree F temps and then subjecting it to over double the heat and trying to have it lubricate everything while being extremely thin. It would damage parts by creating too much frictional heat and would damage the engine. Hopefully that helps everyone clear that up :)


Figured it was something along the honey bottle but I didn't have the scientificie terms, thanks :)

[Mudderoy]

Oversized filter chart from high performance jeep cherokee

I run the Mobile 1 MB-301, no issues.