Cps/tps/iac

[denverd1]

Something's up. Dropped off a big ledge and slammed the drop brackets or cross member, jeep died instantly. Fired right up, drove about 20 feet and died again. Wouldn't crank next 3 times. hooked up buddy's winch and thought I'd try it again. Fired right up. ran until I put it on trailer, prolly 30 minutes. Fired up to drive off trailer. now won't crank.

I know I'm supposed to keep spares of these in the jeep at all times along with the necessary tools, but Im just now having a problem and addressing it.:crazy:

point me in the right way folks!

[cantab27]

cps if shes not cranking after shes warm / been running .......

[4.3LXJ]

When it dies, do you get a check engine light?

[Carves]

Being intermittent ... it sounds like either the crank sensor or the cam sensor.

Since it happened after you smacked it on a ledge .... I'd give the starter motor, and the NSS on the gearbox, a once over too.


With a bit of luck ... it might just be a loose connection.

[denverd1]

I roll CEL on 24/7. PO cut 02 sensors....

Carves good idea on checking other stuff. NSS is kinda ruled out because it started again right?

Sent from my Samsung Galaxy S3

[Carves]

Does the key trick work for checking codes on yours ??

NSS ??? ... depends on whether its loose enough to wriggle around a bit I guess. When I cleaned and refitted mine ... there wasnt much movement between start and no start.

[bigjim350]

Does it turn over but not start? Or doesn't even turnover? If it doesn't turnover at all is look at the nss. If it does turn over and only runs a few seconds at a time, I'd check the fuel pressure. You may have squished a fuel line when it slammed down.

Sent from my SPH-L300 using Tapatalk 2

[Mudderoy]

I roll CEL on 24/7. PO cut 02 sensors....

Carves good idea on checking other stuff. NSS is kinda ruled out because it started again right?

Sent from my Samsung Galaxy S3

Scan for the codes, you can ignore the O2 ones... :P

Yeah won't crank = turns over but won't start?

[denverd1]

02>>===??? we don't need no stinkin o2. she's RED.!!!

She turns over like a broad on nickel night. Forgot to mention that.... spins and spins. got fuel pressure on the rail.

Not getting a spark

[4.3LXJ]

I agree, might be time to check some codes

[Carves]

..... Wouldn't crank next 3 times.
..... now won't crank.


She turns over like a broad on nickel night. Forgot to mention that.... spins and spins.


My JT Edson and Marshall Grover, Texan to English, translation guides .... must need updating .. :confused:


:poke: .... :D
.

[4.3LXJ]

My JT Edson and Marshall Grover, Texan to English, translation guides .... must need updating .. :confused:


:poke: .... :D
.

Then there is English to Aussie ..................... :smiley-taunt002:

[denverd1]

hey fellers. Out of town until 12/30. Just to clarify, engine turns over (like a broad on nickel night) but won't fire. Spins and spins. Had fuel pressure on the rail when it died...

When I get back, i'll do the key/code thing. Just would like to have the parts I'll need when I start messing with it.

thanks for all your help guys. Merry Christmas

[denverd1]

So....

got the crank sensor in. Boy did that job suck. Apparently, that wasn't it. unless I need to reset something before it will start....

Also, tried to pull my codes (after the crank sensor, of course. that's $80 and an hour I'll never get back) and can't get them to flash..? Looked a Brasscatz' article (3 runs, 2 offs for my 98) but couldn't get it to cycle through codes. waited forever after the last 'on'.. Any ideas?

[4.3LXJ]

IIRC the OBDII will not do that. I might be wrong, but I think you need a code reader to get the codes

[Brasscatz]

It will, mine is OBDII and it works. You have to cycle the key fairly quick to get it to work. Don't rush, but at a decent tempo

[Carves]

I'm not 100% positive ... but I think its only the earliest, of the OBDII updates, that allow the key trick to work.

[Brasscatz]

I'm not 100% positive ... but I think its only the earliest, of the OBDII updates, that allow the key trick to work.

Interesting. I wonder if that's only for the Cherokee. It even works on my wife's 2008 Patriot.

Sent from my Samsung Galaxy S4 because my microwave couldn't do it

[denverd1]

Man I tried that shit like 8 times. And not going to ACC instead of off. Brass I watched our bid and tried to mimic the sound of my clicks

Sent from my Samsung Galaxy S3

[denverd1]

Your vid

Sent from my Samsung Galaxy S3

[denverd1]

Ima msg tone loc and see if it works for him.

Sent from my Samsung Galaxy S3

[denverd1]

Tone says his didn't work either. I'll order a Bluetooth one instead of paying 40 for a POS

Sent from my Samsung Galaxy S3

[Brasscatz]

Sorry it didn't work for you bro. Order that one off eBay, mine works great. Same one that Tony has

Sent from my Samsung Galaxy S4 because my microwave couldn't do it

[denverd1]

Broski! Don't u be sry! All good lil one.

Sent from my Samsung Galaxy S3

[denverd1]

So in the interest of wheeling my jeep on Sat instead of wrenching on it, I picked up a scanner from idiotzone. Hooked it up, here's what I've got. I did notice that my codes are a lot more complex than the 2 digit codes Jim listed in his writeup. did the codes change for 1998? I'll do some poking around, but this is what I've got:
132
1388
1389
138
463
135
141

[denverd1]

from: http://www.cherokeeforum.com/f2/jeep-computer-codes-obdi-obdii-3341/

1388 Auto shutdown relay circuit problems?
1389 No Z1 or Z2 voltage seen by the computer when the auto shutdown relay is used.

132/135/138 02 sensors.... :crazy: :noevil:

463 Fuel level sender voltage wrong. I just keep it full... :smiley-laughing021: :cool0010:

141 O2 Sensor Heater Circuit Malfunction (Bank 1 Sensor 2). Good thing my tranny keep me warm. :headbag:

The first two seem to be an issue. Auto shut down??

[NW99XJ]

The 2 digit codes are for the earlier year OBDI....
The three and four digit codes are for OBDII...
Here's the list I found:


Newer model Computer codes (OBDII)
30 Sensor heater relay problem
36 Sensor heater relay problem
106 MAP sensor voltage out of range detected at startup
107 MAP sensor voltage too low
108 MAP sensor voltage too high
112 Intake air temperature sensor voltage low
113 Intake air (charge) temperature sensor voltage high
116 Coolant temparature sensor reading doesn't make sense
117 Engine coolant temperature sensor voltage low
118 Engine coolant temperature sensor voltage high
121 Throttle position sensor and MAP sensor disagree with each other
122 Throttle position sensor voltage low
123 Throttle position sensor voltage high
125 Taking too long to reach proper operating temparature and switch to energy-efficient mode
130 Sensor heater relay problem
130 O2 Sensor Circuit Malfunction (Bank 1 Sensor 1)
131 O2 Sensor Circuit Low Voltage (Bank 1 Sensor 1)
132 O2 Sensor Circuit High Voltage (Bank 1 Sensor 1)
133 O2 Sensor Circuit Slow Response (Bank 1 Sensor 1)
134 O2 Sensor Circuit No Activity Detected (Bank 1 Sensor 1)
135 O2 Sensor Heater Circuit Malfunction (Bank 1 Sensor 1)
136 O2 Sensor Circuit Malfunction (Bank 1 Sensor 2)
137 O2 Sensor Circuit Low Voltage (Bank 1 Sensor 2)
138 O2 Sensor Circuit High Voltage (Bank 1 Sensor 2)
139 O2 Sensor Circuit Slow Response (Bank 1 Sensor 2)
140 O2 Sensor Circuit No Activity Detected (Bank 1 Sensor 2)
141 O2 Sensor Heater Circuit Malfunction (Bank 1 Sensor 2)
142 O2 Sensor Circuit Malfunction (Bank 1 Sensor 3)
143 O2 Sensor Circuit Low Voltage (Bank 1 Sensor 3)
144 O2 Sensor Circuit High Voltage (Bank 1 Sensor 3)
145 O2 Sensor Circuit Slow Response (Bank 1 Sensor 3)
146 O2 Sensor Circuit No Activity Detected (Bank 1 Sensor 3)
147 Oxygen sensor heater element not working properly (this device helps to reduce emissions more quickly)
151 Oxygen sensor voltage problem - short circuit to ground?
152 Oxygen sensor voltage problem - short circuit to active 12V?
153 Oxygen sensor response too slow
154 Oxygen sensor does not show either a rich or lean condition - may need replacement
155 Oxygen sensor heater element not working properly (this device helps to reduce emissions more quickly)
157 Oxygen sensor voltage problem - short circuit to ground?
158 Oxygen sensor voltage problem - short circuit to active 12V?
159 Oxygen sensor response too slow
160 Oxygen sensor does not show either a rich or lean condition - may need replacement
161 Oxygen sensor heater element not working properly (this device helps to reduce emissions more quickly)
171 The oxygen sensor is saying that the system air/fuel mix is far too lean (too much fuel is being added as a correction).
172 The oxygen sensor is saying that the system air/fuel mix is far too rich (too much air is being added as a correction).
174 The oxygen sensor is saying that the system air/fuel mix is far too lean (too much fuel is being added as a correction).
175 The oxygen sensor is saying that the system air/fuel mix is far too rich (too much air is being added as a correction).
176 Flex fuel sensor can't be seen
178 Flex fuel sensor problem
179 Flex fuel sensor problem
182 Compressed natural gas temperature sensor problem
183 Compressed natural gas temperature sensor problem
201 Injector #1 control circuit problem (open or shorted)
202 Injector #2 control circuit problem (open or shorted)
203 Injector #3 control circuit problem (open or shorted)
204 Injector #4 control circuit problem (open or shorted)
205 Injector #5 control circuit problem (open or shorted)
206 Injector #6 control circuit problem (open or shorted)
207 Injector #7 control circuit problem (open or shorted)
208 Injector #8 control circuit problem (open or shorted)
300 Misfire detected in multiple cylinders.
301 Misfire detected in cylinder #1.
302 Misfire detected in cylinder #2.
303 Misfire detected in cylinder #3.
304 Misfire detected in cylinder #4.
305 Misfire detected in cylinder #5.
306 Misfire detected in cylinder #6.
307 Misfire detected in cylinder #7
308 Misfire detected in cylinder #8.
320 Crankshaft position sensor reference signal cannot be found while the engine is cranking.
325 Knock sensor (#1) signal is wrong.
330 Knock sensor (#2) signal is wrong.
340 No camshaft signal being received by the computer
350 A coil is drawing too much current.
351 Coil #1 is not reaching peak current at the right time
352 Coil #2 is not reaching peak current at the right time
353 Coil #3 is not reaching peak current at the right time
354 Coil #4 is not reaching peak current at the right time
355 Coil #5 is not reaching peak current at the right time
356 Coil #6 is not reaching peak current at the right time
357 Coil #7 is not reaching peak current at the right time
358 Coil #8 is not reaching peak current at the right time
401 A required change in air/fuel mixture was not detected during diagnostic test.
403 An problem was detected in the EGR solenoid control circuit.
404 The EGR sensor's reported position makes no sense
405 EGR position sensor voltage wrong.
406 EGR position sensor voltage wrong.
412 The secondary air solenoid control circuit seems bad (this is used for the aspirator).
420 The catalyst seems inefficient (#1).
432 The catalyst seems inefficient (#2).
441 Evaporative purge flow system not working properly
442 A leak has been detected in the evaporative system!
443 Evaporative purge flow system solenoid not working properly
455 A large leak has been detected in the evaporative system!
456 A small leak has been detected in the evaporative system!
460 The fuel level sender is not reporting any change over a long distance. Something seems wrong.
461 The fuel level sender is not reporting any change over a long time. Something seems wrong.
462 Fuel level sender voltage wrong.
463 Fuel level sender voltage wrong.
500 Haven't heard from the speed sensor lately.
505 The idle speed air control motor doesn't seem to be working correctly.
522 Oil pressure sensor problems
523 Oil pressure sensor problems
551 The power steering switch may not be working. (Neons: high pressure is showing up at high speed)
600 Oh-oh! The coprocessors aren't talking to each other within the computer!
601 Internal computer error!
604 Internal computer error! (RAM check)
605 Internal computer error! (ROM)
615 Starter relay circuit problem
622 Generator field control problem
645 A/C clutch relay circuit problem.
700 The automatic transmission computer or Aisin computer has a problem - ask it what's going on. I don't know.
703 Brake switch circuit information seems wrong.
711 Based on the transmission temperature and its operations, it looks like the transmission temperature sensor's gone bad.
712 Transmission fluid temperature sensor voltage wrong.
713 Transmission fluid temperature sensor voltage wrong.
720 The Output Shaft Speed Sensor doesn't match the reported vehicle speed.
740 The engine's running faster than it should for these speeds, so I think thetorque convertor clutch lock-up system is bad
743 Torque converter clutch (part throttle unlock) solenoid circuit problem - shift solenoid C electrical fault
748 Governor Pressure Solenoid circuit problem (Transmission relay circuit problem in Jeep RE transmissions)
751 Overdrive override switch has been pressed for over five minutes. Just thought you should know.
753 Overdrive solenoid control circuit problem (transmission relay circuit in Jeep RE transmissions.)
756 Shift solenoid B (2-3) fault
783 The overdrive solenoid can't go from 3rd gear to the overdrive gear.
801 Transmission reverse gear lockout solenoid circuit problem!
833 Problem with the clutch-released switch circuit?
1192 Inlet air temperature sensor voltage is wrong
1193 Inlet air temperature sensor voltage is wrong
1194 Oxygen sensor heater performance is faulty
1195 Oxygen sensor is slow
1196 The oxygen sensor switched too slowly (bank 2).
1197 The oxygen sensor switched too slowly (bank 1).
1198 Radiator coolant temperature sensor voltage is wrong.
1199 Radiator coolant temperature sensor voltage is wrong.
1281 The engine is staying cold too long - check your thermostat.
1282 The fuel pump relay circuit seems to be having a problem.
1288 The intake manifold short runner tuning valve circuit seems to be having a problem.
1289 There's a problem in the manifold tuning valve solenoid control circuit.
1290 Compressed natural gas system pressure is too high
1291 The heated air intake sensor does not seem to be working.
1292 Natural gas pressure sensor issue
1293 Natural gas pressure sensor issue
1294 Can't get to target engine speed, check for vacuum leaks and idle speed motor issues.
1295 The throttle position sensor doesn't seem to be getting enough electricity.
1296 The MAP sensor doesn't seem to be getting enough electricity.
1297 The MAP sensor doesn't change its reading when the engine is running!
1298 During wide-open throttle, the engine runs lean.
1299 MAP Sensor and Throttle Position Sensor signals don't match, check for a vacuum leak.
1388 Auto shutdown relay circuit problems?
1389 No Z1 or Z2 voltage seen by the computer when the auto shutdown relay is used.
1390 Cam and crank signals don't match - did the timing belt skip a tooth?
1391 Sometimes, I can't see the crank or cam sensor signal.
1398 I can see the Crank Sensor's signal when I prepare for Misfire Diagnostics. Try replacing it.
1399 Problem in the Wait to Start Lamp circuit - (diesels only?)
1403 EGR position sensor not getting (enough) voltage.
1476 Too little secondary air injection during aspirator test.
1477 Too much secondary air injection during aspirator test.
1478 Battery temperature sensor voltage wrong.
1479 Transmission fan relay circuit problems?
1480 PCV solenoid circuit problems?
1481 Transmission RPM pulse generator signal for misfire detection seems wrong.
1482 Catalyst temperature sensor circuit shorted low.
1483 Catalyst temperature sensor circuit shorted high.
1484 The catalyst seems to be overheating!
1485 Air injection solenoid circuit problems.
1486 Pinched or blocked hose in the evaporative hose system.
1487 Control circuit of the #2 high-speed radiator fan control relay is having problems.
1488 Auxiliary 5-volt sensor feed is too low.
1489 High speed radiator fan control circuit problem.
1490 Low speed radiator fan control circuit problem.
1491 Radiator fan control circuit problem (may be solid state relays as well as other circuits).
1492 Ambient or battery temperature sensor voltage wrong
1493 Ambient or battery temperature sensor voltage wrong
1494 Leak Detection Pump (LDP) pressure switch problem - electrical or the pump itself.
1495 Leak Detection Pump (LDP) pressure switch problem - the solenoid circuit.
1496 Sensor feed is below an acceptable limit. (under 4v for 4 seconds - should be 5v).
1498 High speed radiator fan control circuit problem. (#3 control relay)
1594 Voltage too high in charging system.
1595 Speed control vacuum or vent solenoid control circuits shorted or lost.
1596 Speed control switch always high
1597 Speed control switch always low
1598 A/C pressure sensor voltage high
1599 A/C pressure sensor voltage low
1681 No messages received from the cluster control module (dashboard computer).
1682 Charging system doesn't seem to be working well. Check alternator, etc.
1683 Speed control servo power control circuit problem.
1684 The battery has been disconnected within the last 50 starts.
1685 Invalid key received from the Smart Key Immobilizer Module.
1686 No messages received from the Smart Key Immobilizer Module.
1687 No messages received from the Mechanical Instrument Cluster module.
1693 The companion engine control module has shown a fault.
1694 No messages received from the powertrain control module-Aisin transmission.
1695 No messages received from the body control module.
1696 Unsuccessful attempt to write to an EEPROM location!
1697 Unsuccessful attempt to update Service Reminder Indicator (SRI or EMR) mileage!
1698 No messages received from the electronic transmission control module or the Aisin transmission controller.
1719 Transmission 2-3 gear lockout solenoid control circuit problem.
1740 Either the tcc solenoid or overdrive solenoid systems doesn't seem to be making much sense.
1756 Transmission control pressure not equal to target. (Mid pressure problem)
1757 Transmission control pressure not equal to target. (Zero pressure problem)
1762 The Governor Pressure Sensor input was too high or too low for 3 consecutive park/neutral calibrations.
1763 The Governor Pressure Sensor input is too high
1764 The Governor Pressure Sensor input is too low.
1765 Open or short in the Transmission Relay control circuit.
1899 The Park/Neutral switch seems to be stuck!

[4.3LXJ]

Auto shutdown relay will keep it from starting. Better make sure that there is voltage from the ignition to it and that it works. This will keep the fuel pump from working and voltage to the computer. Which is why it will shut down. Sounds like those O2 sensors were made before dirt. Might want to put some new ones in. Might make the difference between starting and not starting

[denverd1]

so will I have voltage there with key in RUN position?

[4.3LXJ]

Yes you will. Pull the relay and you should have voltage at two of the connections. One for the voltage to the relay for the ECM and one for the voltage from the ignition switch

[denverd1]

since PO cut all wires to O2 sensors, I've never known them to work... So I'm leaning toward this ASD issue. Couldn' tI just replace the relay? One thing I read said to sub in the A/C relay to test.... I'm not very handy with electrical stuff but I should be able to operate a test light.

[4.3LXJ]

Yes, you could try to substitute the AC relay

[denverd1]

I'm thinking of buying the relay and returning it if I don't need it. Are these relays standard? or different for each?

[4.3LXJ]

There are different relays, but the ones for your distribution center are all the same

[denverd1]

picked one up on lunch break. fingers crossed, I'm gonna pop it in later

[denverd1]

well that wasn't it. 1388 has a ? by it on all the lists I've found. Something to do with ASD but not the relay itself. can't really nail down this one
1389 is CNG?

maybe theres something to those O2 codes after all.... :headbag:

[4.3LXJ]

One source I found on Yahoo answers says the relay is not turning on. I think you will have to get the test light out and make sure you have power to two of the terminals in the distribution center. Do you have keyless entry or alarm?

[denverd1]

no alarm or keyless. put meter on ASD socket. got 2 with 12 volts 3 without.

Also, when I was messing with it over the wkdn, I could wiggle the ASD relay and hear/feel it clicking on and off. Was never able to get it started, but somethings going on in power distribution center. Switched relays out and kept messing with it, but couldn't get it to stay on. any ideas?

[4.3LXJ]

Sounds like your contacts are dirty. I would start by cleaning them up nice and shiny

[denverd1]

Sounds like your contacts are dirty. I would start by cleaning them up nice and shiny

the main pos/neg contacts for the distribution box? I'll start looking around for some articles/threads on it.

Also, on code 1389 any idea what Z1 and Z2 power is for? Chasing down the gremlin this week!

[4.3LXJ]

IIRC that means power to the ASD was interupted while the ignition was on

[denverd1]

Ok, found a wrangler owner that was having very similar issues. Turned out to be a bad PCM. Wouldn't my codes have tipped me off on that? or prevented me from pulling codes at all?

The PDC lost power once when I was out puttering around town. Wiggled things and she fired right up. maybe corrosion has finally gotten the best of it.

[4.3LXJ]

If it is a connection issue, and I think it is, then the PCM would only register various codes for you since the computer is still functional

[Carves]

Could just be grungy connectors.

Be careful getting the PDC apart ... the clips get a bit brittle with heat and age.

[denverd1]

there is very little out there on these things. Is there a diagram of hardware connection and lead connections? I'd hate snap this thing and have to find another...

[4.3LXJ]

Chiltons has it in their Cherokee manuals

[Carves]

there is very little out there on these things. Is there a diagram of hardware connection and lead connections? I'd hate snap this thing and have to find another...


The PDC comes apart easy enough. It just slides off the metal prongs ... and then you can get at the base to unclip it.

The wire terminals are "locked in" with little plastic bits that are part of the PDC. You need either a special tool .. or sometimes a small ziptie works ... to use as a key.

Be gentle ... I have a couple of PDC here, that now have little busted clips everywhere .. :bang:

A warm engine bay is a requirement ... imho.

[denverd1]

so I popped the PDC off of its clips. and was working on popping the bottom tray off, but didn't go that far. Focussed on cleaning up the relay contacts and the positive cables. all were clean. pulled all the big fuses, cleaned fuses and blew out contacts. still no action. I guess I could just replace the PDC, but then I'd have to splice all the wires. Not impossible, just tedious. This is starting to get really annoying.

Can I clear the codes, then rescan it?

[denverd1]

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/01/16/ava4a6yp.jpg

Sent from my Samsung Galaxy S3

[4.3LXJ]

You can clear the codes by pulling the battery cables and touching them together.

[denverd1]

You can clear the codes by pulling the battery cables and touching them together.

Interesting!! My lil scanner supposedly will do it....

What would you do at this point?? wouldn't new codes pop up and give more info?

[4.3LXJ]

The difference between the scanner and the battery cable thing is that the cables clear everything and the ECM starts over from scratch. Clearing codes with the scanner preserves the operational memory so it doesn't have to learn again

[denverd1]

still chasing this down

found some good vids on diagnosing electrical probs:
http://www.cherokeetech.com/VBull/showthread.php?2129-Engine-Computer-Diagnosis-Videos

[denverd1]

The difference between the scanner and the battery cable thing is that the cables clear everything and the ECM starts over from scratch. Clearing codes with the scanner preserves the operational memory so it doesn't have to learn again

So if I were to clear the codes (not saying thats the next step, was curious about the process) do I unhook both cables from battery and touch them? or leave one hooked up?

[4.3LXJ]

Both, one in each hand

[denverd1]

I tried jumping the posts with a piece of rebar. my neighbors enjoyed the fireworks show :headbag:

[4.3LXJ]

I suppose that is a way to test your battery, if you can find the posts afterwards :D

[denverd1]

Last night, pulled all the small fuses. all were in good shape. there is some minor corrosion going on there, but nothing significant.

Haven't watched all the vids yet. but just curious, steve, if this was your jeep, whats your next step?

[4.3LXJ]

The first thing I would do is the battery terminal thing. Then go from there and see which code pops up with a fresh start on the memory. Then I would attack that first. If you are getting the code for current interruption to the ASD again, then I would hard wire current to it and see if it happens again. If it did, I might go so far as to hard wire a relay in that doesn't involve the power distribution center or the ignition switch. If it didn't happen again, then I would suspect the ignition switch. Basically, in a philosophical sense, it is just isolating things and working backwards until you find it.

[NW99XJ]

The first thing I would do is the battery terminal thing. Then go from there and see which code pops up with a fresh start on the memory. Then I would attack that first. If you are getting the code for current interruption to the ASD again, then I would hard wire current to it and see if it happens again. If it did, I might go so far as to hard wire a relay in that doesn't involve the power distribution center or the ignition switch. If it didn't happen again, then I would suspect the ignition switch. Basically, in a philosophical sense, it is just isolating things and working backwards until you find it.

Exactly... the basis for most electrical gremlins begins and ends with a process of elimination.

[denverd1]

Still 1388 and 1389 along w 463.

ASD and Z1, Z2

Sent from my Samsung Galaxy S3

[4.3LXJ]

I would just wire around the thing and go from there. Power in and out for it, not the coil activation. You want terminal 30 and 89 wires on the relay together. You could even get a couple of spade solder less connections and jumper wire the terminals in the distribution center.

[denverd1]

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/02/16/aryvapy3.jpg

I'm not seeing 89. I've got 86, 87 87a, 85 30

Sent from my Samsung Galaxy S3

[denverd1]

Tried to jump 86 and 30. Pushed the terminals deep into the box. Can I pull out this yellow piece?


Sent from my Samsung Galaxy S3

[denverd1]

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/02/16/ga8abu9e.jpg

Sent from my Samsung Galaxy S3

[4.3LXJ]

I meant 85 or 86 and 30 sbould have power with the the key on. If you jump 30 to 87 it will be lile the relay being on.

[denverd1]

I've suspected the coil since day one. But a 98 has individual coil packs for each cyl, right? is there a way I can check power feed to the coils?

[4.3LXJ]

Not sure on that

Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk 2

[XJ Wheeler]

I've suspected the coil since day one. But a 98 has individual coil packs for each cyl, right? is there a way I can check power feed to the coils?

They didn't put the coil packs on till '00. Yours should have the distributor and single coil.

Sent via messenger pigeon - i talk, he types.

[denverd1]

Can I jump the output side of the socket to simulate a good relay? Or does the ground need to be there as well?

Sent from my Samsung Galaxy S3

[4.3LXJ]

You need power to one and ground to the other

[denverd1]

OK. Got the box separated and found the loose relay terminals on the back side. Tried to jump both last night with no luck. I'll give it another crack when I get out there later. I wouldn't mind replacing the box, but it looks like I'd have to splice every single connection in there. Starting the get irritating. Already missed a couple rides this year

Sent from my Samsung Galaxy S3

[4.3LXJ]

Sounds like you might be on the right track there.

[denverd1]

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/03/15/8yrunaqu.jpg
So if I jump 86 and 87. Supply ground to 85, this would simulate and properly working ASD relay right?

Sent from my Samsung Galaxy S3

[denverd1]

Ugh. No idea what to do. Jumped ground and hot wires. Even pulled out all the terminals to make sure I had good connection at the relay. Nothing.

Now code reader says ERROR.

Sent from my Samsung Galaxy S3

[denverd1]

And voltmeter on dash is dead.

Also noticed one of the bolts that holds the coil on a mounting plate is gone. Nut backed off. Its still secure, just want to make sure it isn't grounded to the block there. Saw it as I was picking up to go inside. I'll put a nut on there just to be safe.

Sent from my Samsung Galaxy S3

[4.3LXJ]

85 and 86 are the coil. If you have an ohm meter you can ohm the two terminals and if you get resistance, the coil is good. Current then should go from 30 to 87. To bypass the relay, jump 30 to 87 in the fuse block. Then turn the key on and you should have the current to whatever it operates, such as fuel pump etc.

[denverd1]

coil should have juice with key in ON position?

curious about the code scanner coming up with nothing. is that ECM related?

The terminals in the PDC are not locking back into place on the board. i.e. the back side of the relay, terminals won't stay put so that a relay can be pushed into the top side. REALLY don't want to monkey with replacing the whole thing over a one relay block. Is anyone familiar with replacing the yellow relay blocks? each one holds 2 relays... this is the weirdest issue I've ever dealt with on anything!

Ω <- this is Ohm right? I've got 5 settings on multi-meter. 2000k, 200k, 20k, 2000 and 200. no idea which does what

[4.3LXJ]

I will be doing something like that shortly. If you have an unused space perhaps you should cut the wires and splice into the new position. Might have to add the appropriate fuse too

[denverd1]

don't have unused spots in the box....

What do you make of error on code reader?

[4.3LXJ]

Denver, those terminals can be replaced. There is a tool for that you just slide in and the terminal comes out through the bottom. We will be doing this on TJ Resurrection shortly as soon as I get wiring diagrams in the mail. Terminals can be bought at auto electric shops along with the tool

[denverd1]

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/attachments/f11/172774d1292805820-power-distribution-center-1998-xj-limited-clipboard02.jpg

[denverd1]

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/03/22/haju3u7e.jpg

Got the ASD relay hooked up on the drivers side underneath it.

Sent from my Samsung Galaxy S3

[denverd1]

Just ohmed the coil. On 200 setting I got mid 60s once it settled down

Sent from my Samsung Galaxy S3

[denverd1]

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/03/22/y7e6esab.jpg

So this can't be right

Sent from my Samsung Galaxy S3

[4.3LXJ]

Terminal 30 should be from the battery and 87 to whatever is being powered. But what you have will work

[denverd1]

Yea the descriptions aren't that specific.

Well im officially stumped. I've got it hooked up exactly as you describe. No voltage on dash and no go. got fuel pressure at the rail.

Undid both battery clamps and reset everything, reconnected them. Error on the reader.

[4.3LXJ]

Man, I wish I had it here. Stuff like this can be tough to find sometimes. You check for voltage out of the ignition switch?

[denverd1]

Like out of the key cylinder? Not sure what you mean.....

Sent from my Samsung Galaxy S3

[4.3LXJ]

Yes, that is what I mean

[denverd1]

well my str column is already pretty jacked up... hmmmm. Wonder why PO had it apart??? HHHmmmm...

maybe something i should look into!

FYI starter engages and spins. so something is sending power to starter at key

[4.3LXJ]

I was just thinking maybe power is not coming out of it. Column in pieces is a bad sign :mad:

[denverd1]

Column in pieces is a bad sign :mad:

i know. :bang:

[HarryHydro]

I had a goofy problem where the engine would quit going around the same turn every day. The ground strap between the motor and firewall was loose. Vehicle leaned and somehow, despite all the electrical connections, clutch linkage, driveshaft, frame became disconnected from the battery (negative connected to the motor). Did this for a couple of months. Put strap on, fixed.