Mudderoy
12-11-2013, 08:40 PM
Perhaps it is fitting that the end of the year is just around the corner and my 98 Jeep is seeing the end to several long term issues. 2013 ends and so has my overheating and not oil leak issues.
I don't doubt that new problems will pop up and even old problems may resurface but what I have now is the knowledge in how to fix them.
Thanks to the folks on xjtalk.com and Matt (msmoorenburg) oh and even naxja.org my over heating on the highway is all but resolved, and understood.
I was told many years ago that to resolve the running hot on the freeway issue I needed to fix my cooling system. I resisted in fixing ALL the cooling system problems, and until it was fixed the cooling system was a problem. Namely the heater core. I can't even take credit for fixing that, Matt did.
Once the cooling system was 100% repaired I would still see temps of 230 to 237 but it wouldn't over heat! After putting the front factory skid back on, at Matt's recommendation, the coolant temps would drop dramatically at 50+ mph just like you'd expect.
Also I learned that 210 all the time isn't realistic. More load means more heat, and the Cherokee just doesn't have the radiator surface area, or coolant volume to cool that 4.0 in all situations! It may have been fine in stock XJ configuration (which I doubt) but not with all the mods I've made.
I'll be wiring the electric fan over ride back up to help with the summer time cooling when I'm moving slow (A/C off). And hopefully I'll get out in the garage soon and get that cowl bonded, sanded and painted on my other hood. With the combination of the cowl induction hood and fan bypass I should be sitting pretty cool at low speeds.
I am considering a flap that I can close on the back of the cowl to have a more natural air flow at highway speeds.
The oil leak hasn't been with me as long as the coolant heating issue. Only about 18 months. The thing you have to remember is look at the evidence not what you think you know. I knew that the rear main seal the oil pan gasket, the oil pan and the 3 O rings on the oil filter adapter were new and should not be leaking. So I focused on the oil pan. After 3 gaskets (maybe 4) it still leaked. After the rear main seal... it still leaked. After the 3 O rings, it stopped!
Yes I was sick of messing with it, I spent a lot of time and money so I wouldn't have these problems, but I did anyway. Now I feel silly that I just didn't do what needed to be done 17 months ago!
Replacing those 3 oil pan gaskets took more time than doing the rear main seal and the O rings oil filter adapter twice each!
I don't want to go to the junk yard and get the stuff to replace the drums with disks either. I guess I should get off my dead ass and do that before I have to do a drum brake repair job...
Now I have to find where I put my transfer case skid and then I can go spend some quality off road time with my rig. :patriot:
I don't doubt that new problems will pop up and even old problems may resurface but what I have now is the knowledge in how to fix them.
Thanks to the folks on xjtalk.com and Matt (msmoorenburg) oh and even naxja.org my over heating on the highway is all but resolved, and understood.
I was told many years ago that to resolve the running hot on the freeway issue I needed to fix my cooling system. I resisted in fixing ALL the cooling system problems, and until it was fixed the cooling system was a problem. Namely the heater core. I can't even take credit for fixing that, Matt did.
Once the cooling system was 100% repaired I would still see temps of 230 to 237 but it wouldn't over heat! After putting the front factory skid back on, at Matt's recommendation, the coolant temps would drop dramatically at 50+ mph just like you'd expect.
Also I learned that 210 all the time isn't realistic. More load means more heat, and the Cherokee just doesn't have the radiator surface area, or coolant volume to cool that 4.0 in all situations! It may have been fine in stock XJ configuration (which I doubt) but not with all the mods I've made.
I'll be wiring the electric fan over ride back up to help with the summer time cooling when I'm moving slow (A/C off). And hopefully I'll get out in the garage soon and get that cowl bonded, sanded and painted on my other hood. With the combination of the cowl induction hood and fan bypass I should be sitting pretty cool at low speeds.
I am considering a flap that I can close on the back of the cowl to have a more natural air flow at highway speeds.
The oil leak hasn't been with me as long as the coolant heating issue. Only about 18 months. The thing you have to remember is look at the evidence not what you think you know. I knew that the rear main seal the oil pan gasket, the oil pan and the 3 O rings on the oil filter adapter were new and should not be leaking. So I focused on the oil pan. After 3 gaskets (maybe 4) it still leaked. After the rear main seal... it still leaked. After the 3 O rings, it stopped!
Yes I was sick of messing with it, I spent a lot of time and money so I wouldn't have these problems, but I did anyway. Now I feel silly that I just didn't do what needed to be done 17 months ago!
Replacing those 3 oil pan gaskets took more time than doing the rear main seal and the O rings oil filter adapter twice each!
I don't want to go to the junk yard and get the stuff to replace the drums with disks either. I guess I should get off my dead ass and do that before I have to do a drum brake repair job...
Now I have to find where I put my transfer case skid and then I can go spend some quality off road time with my rig. :patriot: