The Official Motor Mount Options Thread

[NW99XJ]

I know most wheelers are huge fans of Brown Dog Motor mounts.
I'll agree they appear to be awesome.
But for anyone who is searching for options, and would like to know WHAT ELSE is out there.....
I have compiled a list. (there is no order of importance here) ... and for simplicity sake, I have omitted OEM style mounts.
Feel free to add to it. But as of Dec 2013, this is about all I could find.
SOME OF THESE MANUFACTURERS OFFER A 1" LIFT VERSION OF THESE MOUNTS. (contact them for details/pricing)
NOTE: prices are approximate, and may or may not include shipping.

I would ask that if you comment it would be to ADD to this list, and not to bash a manufacturer, or say how good one is over another, or what you're buying experience was like.
This post is intended to be for informational purposes only.
-Thanks.


ENERGY SUSPENSION $48 (replacement inserts - goes into OEM metal bracket)
http://www.jegs.com/images/photos/300/355/355-2-1104R.jpg

BROWN DOG POLYURETHANE $85
http://browndogindustries.com/images/products/detail/C25720K2Crop2.jpg

BROWN DOG ULTRA-FLEX RUBBER $105
http://browndogindustries.com/images/products/detail/CU25720K2Crop1.jpg

RUSTY'S POLYURETHANE $89
http://www.rustysoffroad.com/media/catalog/product/cache/1/image/9df78eab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/R/P/RP-2MMP2-UV_3.jpg

RUSTY'S RUBBER $89
http://www.rustysoffroad.com/media/catalog/product/cache/1/image/9df78eab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/R/P/RP-MMR1-UV_3.jpg

Currie Ent. (poly) $96
http://static.summitracing.com/global/images/prod/large/CUR-CE-9201.jpg

IRONMAN 4X4 $105
http://ironman4x4fab.com/Products/images/TJ-STD-MM.jpg

DAYSTAR $74
http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/31RKArd1%2B4L.jpg

RUGGED RIDGE $120
http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/41ssDbzwYdL.jpg

M.O.R.E.
$111 (bombproof - poly - zinc plated) <- shown
$89 (bombproof - poly - bare steel) <- not shown
http://www.quadratec.com/Assets/Images/153398/153398-lg.jpg

M.O.R.E.
$139 (Bombproof - Torsion / Rubber - zinc plated)
http://www.quadratec.com/Assets/Images/153403/153403-lg.jpg

AUTOFAB $150
http://autofab.com/images/F52377391.jpg

PROTHANE $96
http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/41ycjosZofL.jpg

[JENSSEN]

Brown dog /thread

As long as they are used with the engine plates, other wise buy the OEM ones and wait for the bosses in the block to fail,..

I almost lost my race engine until the brown dog engine plates saved my ass

[Mudderoy]

Brown dog'ss is just ****ing gorgeous! :smiley-taunt002:

and Mudderoy approved!

[nickyg]

Why even replace em? A loose engine is a great way to shake a martini.

[Mudderoy]

Episode 77 was the interview with Tim of BrownDog!

http://www.xjtalkshow.com/index.php/2013/03/episode-74-xj-talk-show/

[brentc]

I went with the Brown Dog super kit poly/ Daystar poly trans mount.

[NW99XJ]

Just in case anyone wants to know what the engine plates are:

http://browndogindustries.com/images/products/detail/S2572RECropped3.2.jpg

These spread engine block attachment stress loads. Virtually eliminating offroad torsional forces snapping bolts or ripping the bracket from the case. Ideal for situations with one or more bolts already sheared or if there are broken engine block threads.

http://browndogindustries.com/images/products/detail/CroppedDriverSide.1.jpg

http://browndogindustries.com/images/products/detail/S2572LinXJCropped.1.jpg

[XJ Wheeler]

Ironman4x4fab. com sells a set of those too. Andy doesn't have them on the site though, so you'll have to call. But i can tell you they're on my wish list.

4120

Sent via messenger pigeon - i talk, he types.

[abebehrmann]

So what bits usually break on these? I would like to go over mine closely to make sure they're not starting to fail.

[NW99XJ]

So what bits usually break on these? I would like to go over mine closely to make sure they're not starting to fail.
Usually its the rubber that falls apart.
Some report having the studs break off from where they mount.

Here's what mine looked like the last time I replaced them...
(new on the left - old on the right)
http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h328/jbchill1/IMG_1497.jpg

[NW99XJ]

A Closer look once that real bad one was pulled out:
http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h328/jbchill1/IMG_1498.jpg

I thought for sure those were only about a year old (the new ones pictured above).... turns out they were swapped in July 2012.
Here's what they look like today (December 2013)
Drivers side
http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/640x480q90/c/11/x2bg.jpg (http://imageshack.com/i/0bx2bgj)

Yes the top of the metal housing of the mount itself is snapped in two:
http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/640x480q90/c/29/vfxo.jpg (http://imageshack.com/i/0tvfxoj)

Passenger side:
http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/640x480q90/c/547/hcz1.jpg (http://imageshack.com/i/f7hcz1j)

That's right, virtually no rubber left.
http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/640x480q90/c/36/laak.jpg (http://imageshack.com/i/10laakj)

So with these being barely a year and a half old, and having around 10 GOOD wheeling trips on them, and a fair amount of freeway miles as well..... I'd say this is a good argument for WHY you upgrade to something more than just an OEM replacement.
This is really making me wonder what my tranny mount is looking like.

[XJ Wheeler]

Ouch!!! I would wonder about all the rubber if those look like that. I guess maybe mud dried em out? If you got mud up there... but that one breaking is just bad.

Sent via messenger pigeon - i talk, he types.

[Brasscatz]

Nothing worse than bad rubber.... just ask Patrick's parents :P rofl

[Carves]

They look as though they came out of the same factory - as my last, rubber, rear spring bushes.

Hardly OEM quality, ehhh ?? ... regardless of the packaging .. ;);)


I'd be interested in peoples experiences with those Energy Suspension replacements.

[4.3LXJ]

IIRC I have Energy Suspension motor mounts. Granted, they are not the same. Mine are just a square pad with metal cast in. But they work. You do feel the idle vibes more. But nothing is rattling because of it though.

[Infidel Edition]

Usually its the rubber that falls apart.
Some report having the studs break off from where they mount.

Here's what mine looked like the last time I replaced them...
(new on the left - old on the right)
http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h328/jbchill1/IMG_1497.jpg

You saw mine... not quite that bad, but I'm just doing stock for now (since I have them already). I had pulled the oil filter off to get the bolt out = still not enough clearance! :bang:
But picked up better bolts at Tacoma Screw and will just cut the old bolt out.

Otherwise, I came across a mount and engine bracket designed to match up to the 1" - 2" tranny drop.
Not sure if it was slightly angled to deal with the lower rear of the engine or if the bracket lowered the engine slightly??
Was more work that I have time for at the moment. But when I pull the head for a rebuild, I might look at it again....

[sbspence]

Does anyone have a good. R and R thread or video for this.


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[NW99XJ]

There is not any videos that I know of... I could go look around, but replacing the motor mounts is actually pretty easy.... probably just as easy as doing an oil change! There is one nut and one bolt that hold each motor mount onto the unibody, and one main bolt that connects the engine to the mount.
That's it.
I cant remember the exact size, but if you have a good socket set, you'll be fine. On the driver's side, removing the air box will help give you a little more room to work. This sint hard, just pop the top off, remove the filter, and there will be a few nuts bolts there at the bottom that hold it in place. Remove these, and just bend the airbox out of the way.
On the passenger side though, things get a little tight. Not bad, you'll still have plenty of room to work, but if you have some socket extensions long enough to get you above all the wires and hoses and what-not, it will help make things go easier.

You need to support the engine from underneath as you do the swap. This is best done by a floor jack and a block of wood under the oil pan. You'll want to take the load of the engine off of the motor mounts by giving it a little upwards pressure.
You probably wont need a lot, but this may be something that takes a few tries to find the sweet spot.
This will make removing the connecting bolt (the big one that goes thru the middle of the mount that connects the engine to the mount itself) a lot easier.
Air tools will also make things a TON easier, but are not required.

DO ONE SIDE AT A TIME. Trying to fight a wobbly engine with no anchor point will make for a frustrating afternoon.
Might be a good idea to spray all nuts/bolts down with a generous amount of PB Blaster (penetrating oil) for a few days prior to beginning the R&R. This will make sure you dont have to fight too hard to get things loosened up.
Having a thrid hand there will help as well, somebody to operate a pry bar to manipulate the engine in case it needs to be "persuaded" into a better position.

You'll want to take the long connecting bolt out first, this is the one that goes thru the mount and the engine. It will be easier to do this while the mount is still "mounted" to the unibody. Again, having someone operate the jack to move the engine up or down, or a pry bar to manipulate the engine back and forth or front to back.... usually there isn't much of this needed. The jack SHOULD take care of the majority of the engine position.
After the main bolt is out, THEN you can remove the nut and bolt that hold the mount to the unibody.
Once the old mount is free, remove it and place the new one in its new home.
Secure the mount to the unibody, and manipulate the engine position as necessary to get the long connecting bolt back into position. I like to tighten everything real good, but I would recommend you consult a Factory Service Manual, a Haynes or Chilton manual or some other source (tech at a dealership, etc..) to determine proper torque specs.
THATS IT!
See?
Super easy.

A word of advice, ...when replacing motor mounts, it is typical to at the very least, inspect the transmission mount.
Look for missing chunks of rubber, over compression (it will look like a muffin loaf all squished up), or chapping/cracking. Any signs of deterioration, and it should be replaced.
(this too is an easy job) ...again, just support the tranny/t-case with a jack a nd a block of wood, and R&R.
The parts for all this are real cheap, so long as you go with OEM replacements.
The aftermarket stuff can get a little spendy.
Motor mount replacements from the parts stores will usually run you less than $20 a piece
....and a tranny mount will prob be anywhere from $20 to $40.

I hope this helps!

[Brasscatz]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D6rwkAqGmao&feature=youtube_gdata_player

Sent from my Samsung Galaxy S4 because my microwave couldn't do it

[sbspence]

Nice! Did you do that just for my benefit? ;). So...are the stock mounts as woefully weak as some of the threads I've read on different forums would lead one to believe? If I'm going to do it ( and have a little extra money lying/laying around) should I just go ahead and throw in some aftermarket ones like the famous brown Dog ones I've been reading about on here so much. I would go with the rubber so I can keep the NVH down...AND how important are the extra motor brackets? I did note that they add quite a bit of extra to the bottom line when added to the kit. <yikes>. Thanks!


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[Brasscatz]

If you're talking about me, no I found that video last year when doing mine lol. The stock mounts do kinda suck, if you can swing it go aftermarket. Brown dog or iron man. I would LOVE the brackets because they will eliminate the bolt shear possibility... get them if you can

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[sbspence]

Alright will do. Thanks guys!


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