Transmission Dipstick Tube Leaking?

[XJ Wheeler]

Alright, so when i was changing out my transmission mount a few weeks back i noticed some fluid on the trans dipstick tube. Now i have quite a few different leaks going but i think it may be leaking from the connection where the tube goes into the transmission pan. For the life of me i can't find any information about that connection anywhere. Is it an o-ring to seal it, welded together, or just holding together with hopes and dreams? I'm gonna be dropping the pan and changing out the trans fluid soon so i might as well replace the seal if i can.

3562

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[F1Addict]

I'm pretty sure it's a brazed connection.

[bigjim350]

Where it comes out of the pan its welded. Where it comes apart to drop the pan its just pressed in there without a o-ring....I think.

[XJ Wheeler]

Okay, thanks guys. Now i really hope it isn't leaking there. :eek: Probably coming from one of the other leaks. :rolleyes:

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[ArmyGuy45]

Okay, thanks guys. Now i really hope it isn't leaking there. :eek: Probably coming from one of the other leaks. :rolleyes:

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I just recently changed my trans filter and my dipstick looked like that. I replaced the o-ring where they separate and now I don't leak. You will need to grease it when you put it back together.

Word of caution, I dropped my pan to replace the filter and when I bolted it back up I may have partially stripped one of the bolts near the rear of the transmission next to the mount bar since the angle was horrible. Go REALLY slow when putting those bolts back in. The bolts seem like they are made out of a harder marital than the transmission case.

[XJ Wheeler]

I just recently changed my trans filter and my dipstick looked like that. I replaced the o-ring where they separate and now I don't leak. You will need to grease it when you put it back together.

Word of caution, I dropped my pan to replace the filter and when I bolted it back up I may have partially stripped one of the bolts near the rear of the transmission next to the mount bar since the angle was horrible. Go REALLY slow when putting those bolts back in. The bolts seem like they are made out of a harder marital than the transmission case.

Thanks for the advice! I usually try to be careful when tightening into aluminum anyways but i'll take the extra, advised caution. First time dropping a trans pan for me. Studied up and ready to go.

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[F1Addict]

I just recently changed my trans filter and my dipstick looked like that. I replaced the o-ring where they separate and now I don't leak. You will need to grease it when you put it back together.

Word of caution, I dropped my pan to replace the filter and when I bolted it back up I may have partially stripped one of the bolts near the rear of the transmission next to the mount bar since the angle was horrible. Go REALLY slow when putting those bolts back in. The bolts seem like they are made out of a harder marital than the transmission case.

That's good advice. The bolts at the rear are partially obscured by the trans cross-member, a swivel head comes in handy.


Thanks for the advice! I usually try to be careful when tightening into aluminum anyways but i'll take the extra, advised caution. First time dropping a trans pan for me. Studied up and ready to go.

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I changed my filter and trans fluid a couple months ago (first time for me, too). The most difficult part was threading the dipstick through all of that mess to get the pan out and back in. Just be patient and don't force anything, it does come out with the proper contortions. It took a little less than 8 pints (one gallon) to refill when I was done. My initial fill was 6 pints (I think), then I drove it about three miles, parked, ran the shifter through every gear with the engine running, put it in park (on level ground) and, with the engine still running, filled until both circular windows in the dipstick consistently had a film of trans fluid. It took almost two pints to get there. Good luck and have fun.

[XJ Wheeler]

That's good advice. The bolts at the rear are partially obscured by the trans cross-member, a swivel head comes in handy.



I changed my filter and trans fluid a couple months ago (first time for me, too). The most difficult part was threading the dipstick through all of that mess to get the pan out and back in. Just be patient and don't force anything, it does come out with the proper contortions. It took a little less than 8 pints (one gallon) to refill when I was done. My initial fill was 6 pints (I think), then I drove it about three miles, parked, ran the shifter through every gear with the engine running, put it in park (on level ground) and, with the engine still running, filled until both circular windows in the dipstick consistently had a film of trans fluid. It took almost two pints to get there. Good luck and have fun.

I was questioning how much it would need to refill anyway. So, thanks!

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[Brasscatz]

If I remember correctly, the level should be checked with it running at operating temp and the tranny in neutral instead of park

[ArmyGuy45]

If I remember correctly, the level should be checked with it running at operating temp and the tranny in neutral instead of park

Neutral and I only added 5 qts so add a few and check it before adding more.

[oderdene]

If I remember correctly, the level should be checked with it running at operating temp and the tranny in neutral instead of park

on my tranny dipstick, "hot level check idling in park". should I check when idling on N?

[ArmyGuy45]

on my tranny dipstick, "hot level check idling in park". should I check when idling on N?

Mine says N, 2001 XJ, so I dont know if they changed it. Hayes manual says to check in N. Page 1-12

[F1Addict]

At some point they switched from Park to Neutral in the FSM. Mine says to check it in Park, as does my dipstick but I've got an old copy of the FSM and an even older copy of the XJ. I would guess that when the FSM switched to "Neutral" the factory had a surplus of "Park" dipsticks they wanted to get rid of.

My understanding is that there is no difference in the fluid level between N and P. In both positions the valve body and servos are doing the exact same thing, the only difference is the parking pawl which wouldn't affect the fluid level reading.

[F1Addict]

Neutral and I only added 5 qts so add a few and check it before adding more.

That's a full quart more than what I needed to refill (8 pints). The amount you will need depends on many factors. Check the dipstick frequently to make sure you don't over-fill which is worse than under-filling.

[ArmyGuy45]

That's a full quart more than what I needed to refill (8 pints). The amount you will need depends on many factors. Check the dipstick frequently to make sure you don't over-fill which is worse than under-filling.

Opps, I thought I read yours as 8 qts. Sorry.

[XJ Wheeler]

While i'm on the subject. What brand fluid do you guys use? I'm sure the brand doesn't matter like motor oil but it will tell me what brands make the fluid i need. I know we're suppose to use Dexron III on these AW4s, but I see bottles stating Dexron/Mercon without a #?

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[F1Addict]

While i'm on the subject. What brand fluid do you guys use? I'm sure the brand doesn't matter like motor oil but it will tell me what brands make the fluid i need. I know we're suppose to use Dexron III on these AW4s, but I see bottles stating Dexron/Mercon without a #?

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A little history on the naming of ATF. Auto manufacturers contracted oil companies to create transmission lubricants based on a specific formulation. The contract allowed the oil manufacturer to use the name of the formulation such as Dexron, Mercon, and ATF+4 which belonged to GM, Ford, and Chrysler, respectively. The formulation name went away, either after the license to use the name ran out or when a new formulation (usually synthetic) was introduced. The new formulations are usually backwards compatible with older formulations but you have to read carefully to make sure because using the wrong fluid can cause damage.

I used Chevron MD3 which is a Dexron/Mercon II & III compatible fluid. You want to make sure that whatever oil you use it specifies that it is Dexron II or III compatible. While D/M VI claims to be backwards compatible with all D/M formulations, it is not recommended for previous generation non-GM transmissions like the Aisin Warner AW4 that call for D/M II or III. That's not confusing at all, is it? There are several fluids that designate Dexron/Mercon II and/or III compatible and that's what I would use. Sorry, I don't have their names off the top of my head.

[F1Addict]

I was given some interesting information by a friend of mine who was a Jeep mechanic (dealership) during the Renix era and beyond. He told me that Chrysler released a TSB in 1994 which stated all Chrysler vehicles could use their newly developed ATF+4 fluid in place of the older standard Dex/Merc II & III. However, the TSB specifically excluded the AW4 from this substitution. In 2007, Chrysler released another TSB which basically stated the same thing but did not exclude the AW4.

A couple of observations. 1.) In 2007 all AW4 transmissions would officially be out of warranty and thus, no longer the responsibility of Chrysler so their service department could potentially benefit from this. They could have recommended that you use extra-virgin olive oil, what did they care? If your transmission blew up you would bring it to them to have it fixed and you would be paying for it. And 2.) Chrysler had a vested interest in switching people from Dex/Merc III to ATF+4 since they held (and still hold) the license for ATF+4, they would profit from it's sale.

[XJ Wheeler]

Very interesting information. My head only spun around twice due to confusion. :D But it furthers my distaste for the years Daimler and Cerberus had control, although they did 10 times better than Fiat. :rolleyes:

Thanks for the history lesson. I'll be sure to confirm compatibility before purchase.

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[BlueXJ]

My take is use Dex/Merc II or III and I have heard the same about those TSBs.
As to which braand I stay with Castrol if I can find it or with Mobil if it is available. I avoid Pennzoil in any form, oil grease or fluid.

[oderdene]

I am using Castrol D III, shifts smoother and feels better than ATF 4 previously was in AW4

http://www.hkct.com.my/hkc/images/stories/virtuemart/product/castrol%20atf%20dex%20iii%20%2818l%20pail%29%20%28 640x480%29.jpg

[XJ Wheeler]

At the auto parts store now. I found Castrol Transmax Dexron VI that says its "certified by GM for use in cars and trucks that require Dexron III (and others). Is that okay?

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[F1Addict]

Nope. That will work on GM manufactured transmissions but isn't recommended for their Asian made transmissions like those found in the Aveo... and the AW4.

[XJ Wheeler]

Nope. That will work on GM manufactured transmissions but isn't recommended for their Asian made transmissions like those found in the Aveo... and the AW4.

Thanks. I'm finding it hard to locate a compatible non-synthetic fluid.

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[GB.XJ.MI]

I've ran valvoline dex/merc in 4 of my XJs and never had a problem. All of them are 200K + mileage trans. Always red and smells good. ATF+4 is a Chrysler trans fluid used in a lot of the 90s because Chrysler made some pretty unpredictable transmissions and had a no service idea where the trans would last longer. ATF+4 was not designed for the AW4 and can cause slipping and sometimes destroy it.

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[XJ Wheeler]

Would you believe i still haven't gotten the fluid. I couldn't find anything compatible and felt i needed to research it more. So i came up with two options locally... if they'll work. Million dollar question, will either work? I prefer Castrol, it is more expensive but only $10-15 for something so vital isn't much.

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/accessories/Castrol-1-qt-domestic-multi-vehicle-automatic-transmission-fluid/_/N-25aa?id=232570&itemIdentifier=232570_0_0_

http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/VAL0/D1/N0471.oap?ck=Search_N0471_-1_1782&pt=N0471&ppt=C0207

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[ArmyGuy45]

You do not have any Dex III in your area? I am using Dex III and no issues.

[XJ Wheeler]

You do not have any Dex III in your area? I am using Dex III and no issues.

None that i can find... and i live in a very populated area... not like its some little town. I guess someone doesn't know what to stock the shelves with.

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[XJ Wheeler]

I guess its okay then. I plan on getting it today, unless ???

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[Brasscatz]

I would go with the Valvoline one you linked. I'm pretty sure that's what I used last time, but I honestly can't remember bro :(

[XJ Wheeler]

I would go with the Valvoline one you linked. I'm pretty sure that's what I used last time, but I honestly can't remember bro :(

Thanks bro! They both say they are compatible with the requirements of dexron III, and the castrol also with dexron II.

They gotta make it complicated. :rolleyes:

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